I buy most of my super glue in 8 oz. bottles, and it lasts a long time. Am
I doing something wrong?

If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture, it follows that we should only
use it in humidity-controlled rooms, and shoot some moisture removing
inert gas into the bottle after use. CO2 is easy to obtain, or, if you
own a MIG welder, you've got a bottle of argon handy. It also follows
that it should have greater shelf life once opened in Arizona (low
humidity) than in Florida (off the scale humidity). Is this so? If it
is, is it worth all the trouble? Just buy smaller bottles of glue and
build faster! :-)

Max Mahanke wrote:

Anyway, CA glue... cues in the
presences of moister.

I purchased this stuff at the Pamona Swap Meet and I was told to put it
in the FREEZER and it stays perfect it will fast activate with SIMPLE
GREEN and when you add backing soda makes a super bond. Ed ke6bnl

MxBon 50g Bottle

MxBon 50g Bottle
SKU:

MXBON 105 is a high strength, instant bonding adhesive which can be
used for virtually any type of fastening job. It's a single component
that bonds almost all close-fitting smooth surfaces in second at room
temperature. It requires no mixing, no heating, and no clamping. It
contains no solvent, has low toxicity, mild odor and is non flammable.
HOW IT WORKS: MXBON 105 polymerizes when pressed into a thin film. The
very thin layer of water moisture present on most surfaces in
combination with the absence of oxygen (an anaerobic bond) acts as an
alkali, which is the catalyst that acts in bonding. Excess traces of
water will prevent the effective bonding of the materials.
SURFACE PREPARATION: Clean any oils or water by using acetone or M.E.K
(glass should be cleaned with alcohol to prevent any residue
accumulation). Metals should be free of rust and debris. Roughing up
the surface of metals (with sandpaper) will increase the bonding.
Remove any traces of the old glue if the surface has been bonded
before.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE: Apply a small amount of MXBON 105_ to the surface
to be bonded. (Usually one side). Lap them together to achieve a thin,
uniform application. Then fix them securely at prescribed position. The
thinner the adhesive application, the stronger the bond will be.
CARE/STORAGE: Avoid direct sunlight. Store in a cool, dry place.
(20-25°C) (68-77°F). For long term storage, refrigeration or freezer
is recommended.
Hints and Tricks Hint#1 Use any house hold baking soda as instant bondo
type filler. Can be used even for small plumbing leaks, medal filler,
substitution for a wood puddy etc. Can also be used with shavings of
like material for matching color.ie jewlery making etc. Will in most
cases take high heat and water etc. Hint#2 Instead of buying expensive
glue remover use Acetone. (seperating glued fingers) etc. Acetone also
makes a great cleaner/preparer for glass/medal. Hint#3 Use ordinary
hand lotion as a precautionary to avoid adhesion of fingers/skin.
Complete with ultra fine applicators to avoid excessive glue use and
proper glue dispersal. Complete with Special No-clog lid (needle bulit
into cap) to consistently keep lid free of glue build up. GLUES
VIRTUALLY ANY MATERIAL SUCH AS: PLASTIC/RUBBER including polyurethane,
neoprene, fiberglass, Kevlar, graphite, polycarbonate, PVC, abs,
polystyrene, Teflon, etc. · O-Ring, vacuum belt, and gasket repair or
installation. · Electronic manufacturing repair. · Auto weather
stripping, dashboard and molding repair. · Pool equipment. ·
Fishing equipment (lures, poles, etc). · Toys, Models, RC, etc. ·
Surf boards/ wake boards METAL including steel, aluminum, stainless
steel, copper, brass, etc. · Jewelry repair/manufacturing · Thread
locking · Machining parts (auto, industrial) · Knife making WOOD
· Antique restoration · Wood refinishing · Furniture making and
repair · Architectural models · Musical instruments · Picture
frame manufacturing and repair · Crafts ALSO, GLUES MINERALS/ GEMS/
COMPOSITES/ LEATHER and millions of other uses.
PRICE: $15.00

for rubber cement bloxegen works well. it works on polyurethane glue
too. super glue a bigger bottle. but it sounds like you use so little
not much will help but small bottles and throwing it away.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

Geoff Sanders wrote:
If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture,

It does not cure with moisture. It is an anaerobic glue.

Dan

wrote:

Geoff Sanders wrote:

If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture,


It does not cure with moisture. It is an anaerobic glue.

Dan

I think moisture is necessary, Dan.

wrote:

Geoff Sanders wrote:

If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture,


It does not cure with moisture. It is an anaerobic glue.

Dan

thread locking compounds like Loctite are anaerobic

Dave

How long do you leave the glue stored?????

Elmers will last a year or so if capped.
Contact cement should last almost indefinitely if properly capped.

Don'e store either one of these in your fridge!

CA has a definite shelf life if approximately 1 year from date of
manufacture when properly stored. Storage is generally cool or cold
(refrigerator) and away from light. I have had CA last months uncapped in
my garage. If you use accelerators, your shelf life will be less.

--
Paul McIntosh
RC-Bearings.com
"when steel just isn't enough"
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
oups.com...
How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT

Fri, Jan 27, 2006, 9:53am (EST-3)
(Too_Many_Tools) doth wonder:
How do you store your various glues?
With three different glues, I seldom have success. snip

Sooper glue. Once it's opened, it ain't gonna last too long. You
buys the smallest amount you plan on using, and get over it.

Contact cement. Never heard it called contact glue. I had a can
in my laundry room, for probably 20 years. Opened it up, and prt of it
was still usable. I guess the secret is, seal the can tight.

Elmer's Woodworking Glue. I don't use it. I use Titebond II, and
if it thickens a bit before I can use it all, I put a bit of water in
it, and shake it up. No prob. Just now I've got some that's well over
a year old, and still doing just fine.



JOAT
You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and
it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
How do you store your various glues?

With three different glues, I seldom have success.

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.
I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with
dessicant in the refrigerator.

- Contact glue
With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to
use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its
secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator.

- Elmer's woodworking glue
With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened
the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the
the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely
tightened.

Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad?

Thanks

TMT


Yes tight lids and normal temperatures.

Although I can remember the time that the damn
super glue hadn't hardened by the the next time I
wanted to use it.

Contact glue with eventually harden even if
sealed, probably 2-3 years.

Elmers woodworking glue, is that the same as Elmer
carpenters glue (yellow)? I recently replace a
gallon of carpenters glue that I bought at least
20 years ago. And yes the last 1/2" was a little
thick. You definitely have a problem if yours goes
bad in less than 10 years. Besides, when it
thickens a little, just a bit of water, mix well,
and you will never know the difference.

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
How do you store your various glues?

- Super glue

Buy small amounts. It goes bad fast, and humidity is the "cure"
trigger. Fortunatly, it's pretty cheap.


- Contact glue

My dad has some that's 30 years old that he still uses. For most mere
mortals, who aren't doing production countertop installs, buy only what
you need for a job or that you'll use in a couple months.


- Elmer's woodworking glue

I've seen this grow mold, but I USUALLY go through it long before that
happens.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Geoff Sanders wrote:
If cyanoacrylic glue reacts to moisture,

It does not cure with moisture. It is an anaerobic glue.

Dan

Dan
Sorry, it does cure in the presence of moisture; from Henkel-Loctite's MSDS
for cyanoacrylate glues:
Polymerized by contact with water, alcohols,
amines, alkalies.
Loctite thread locking agents such as 222, 241, 270 are anaerobic adhesives
however.
Martin
..--
martindot herewhybrowat herentlworlddot herecom

You are right. I looked it up on the Three Bond web site and it is OH
that cures it. I was going by what I remembered for Eastman 910 data
sheets about fifty years ago. And obviously I remembered wrong. Funny
though that you can put a drop on something and nothing happens until
you put something else against it and squeeze. I guess it is because
it has little surface area when it is a drop on a substrate. And when
you squeeze it with another piece, you spread it out so it can contact
the moisture on the surfaces of both pieces.

Dan


Martin Whybrow wrote:

Dan
Sorry, it does cure in the presence of moisture; from Henkel-Loctite's MSDS
for cyanoacrylate glues:
Polymerized by contact with water, alcohols,
amines, alkalies.
Loctite thread locking agents such as 222, 241, 270 are anaerobic adhesives
however.
Martin
.--
martindot herewhybrowat herentlworlddot herecom

for cyanoacrylate glues:
Polymerized by contact with water, alcohols,
amines, alkalies.

When I build RC model airplanes we use to use super glue and we
would accelerate it with baking soda. Put some baking soda
in a rubber bulb and spray it on the joint. It would cure imediately
(with smoke) and the baking soda would make a fillet too.

"Too_Many_Tools" writes:
The contact cement I have seems to solidify even when there is solvent
still in the can...very curious since I thought contact cement was a
solvent evaporation process.

I bought a can (about 250ml) of Contact cement about 15 years ago. Every
12 months or so I prise open the lid and use some for a few jobs I've
saved up, then after use carefully tap the lid all around the edge to make
sure it seals well. The cement is as liquid as it was when purchased and
there is no solidified cement in the can or on its sides. If only all
adhesives were so reliable and could be packaged so effectively!
--
John Savage (my news address is not valid for email)

In article
,
says...

"Too_Many_Tools" writes:
The contact cement I have seems to solidify even when there is solvent
still in the can...very curious since I thought contact cement was a
solvent evaporation process.

I bought a can (about 250ml) of Contact cement about 15 years ago. Every
12 months or so I prise open the lid and use some for a few jobs I've
saved up, then after use carefully tap the lid all around the edge to make
sure it seals well. The cement is as liquid as it was when purchased and
there is no solidified cement in the can or on its sides. If only all
adhesives were so reliable and could be packaged so effectively!


Yeah-but, the "super" glue and airplane-model glue
formulas are much more aggressive.

It is really annoying to go around with this tube
permanently stuck in my nostril.


--
Want Freebies?
http://www.TheFreeStuffList.com/
Check The Free Stuff List

Antipodean Bucket Farmer wrote:

In article
,
says...

"Too_Many_Tools" writes:
The contact cement I have seems to solidify even when there is solvent
still in the can...very curious since I thought contact cement was a
solvent evaporation process.

I bought a can (about 250ml) of Contact cement about 15 years ago. Every
12 months or so I prise open the lid and use some for a few jobs I've
saved up, then after use carefully tap the lid all around the edge to make
sure it seals well. The cement is as liquid as it was when purchased and
there is no solidified cement in the can or on its sides. If only all
adhesives were so reliable and could be packaged so effectively!


Yeah-but, the "super" glue and airplane-model glue
formulas are much more aggressive.

It is really annoying to go around with this tube
permanently stuck in my nostril.

Be thankful you weren't repairing hemorrhoids.

Just go ahead and sniff those glues to use them up..... then they won't
be left sitting around!

SoCalMike wrote:
Too_Many_Tools wrote:

- Super glue
With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it
again the tube has hardened.

i remember when superglue was expensive. now it can be bought at the 99
cent store.

FWIW, there are 3 different packaging methods for it.

the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce
it.that works ok.

then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss.

mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up.


I found that with polyurethane glues the scum which forms on the
surface can't be avoided but if you store the containers inverted then
the scum won't clog up the nozzle. Refrigerating CA thin works well
as I have been refilling the little bottles out of an 8oz bottle that
I bought over three year ago.

Phil AMA609