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#1
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
How do you store your various glues?
With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad? Thanks TMT |
#2
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Too_Many_Tools wrote: How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad? Thanks TMT buy smaller quantities and use it faster. |
#3
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote: (clip) How do you store your various glues? (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I have a small bottle of super glue that has been in my refrigerator for years, and it is still usable. I have other bottles of super glue that have been on the shelf in my shop/garage for months to years. The oldest ones (years) are now solid. The newest (months) are A-OK. How long do yours take to go bad? |
#4
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message oups.com... How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad? Thanks TMT Elmer's has a shelf life and you can't stop the slow but steady degradation. Near the end when it is too thick, a little water will thin it back out, but it has lost strength at that point. The only remedy is to buy small containers to avoid a big, half-empty, bottle on the shelf. Buy contact cement in the aerosol can and it will last a very long time. Several years at least. 3M makes some very good ones. Now you know why super glue comes in such small containers. Randy |
#5
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. I don't use this often, but a bottle of the gel version seems to be just fine after a year or so at varying temperature in the unheated shop. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. I use this a bit more than super glue, generally using the good flammable version for laminate. I don't recall ever having it go bad on me. The nonflammable and newer latex version may have different shelf lives. - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. I don't use the Elmer's wood glue, all I have used in recent years is the Titebond II which I have excellent results with. I typically have one of the big jugs of the stuff and use it to refill a couple of the smaller squeeze bottles with the push pull tops. These have sat in the shop over hot summers and cold winters and I've use it under all temperatures without any problems. Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad? I don't know as you seem to have particularly bad luck. Perhaps read the container for recommended storage conditions. Pete C. Thanks TMT |
#6
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Too_Many_Tools wrote
How do you store your various glues? I dont do anything special with the hot melt gun sticks, they store fine. I dont try to store anything else, just get some more for a particular task that the hot melt glue gun isnt suitable for. With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad? Thanks TMT |
#7
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
And with epoxies, be sure not to mix before needed. Sorry, I couldn't
resist! Bob Swinney "Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message oups.com... How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad? Thanks TMT |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
Too_Many_Tools wrote: How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. I've got botles of CA that sat in my shed for probably 10 years that are still usable. Building a trainer with my son with 'em. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. Never had a can around long enough (used to do a LOT of laminate work) to let it sit... - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. The yellow stuff? Same as the CA.. Just seems to last and last as long as the cover is on the bottle. My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant.. They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless of the measures I take to seal 'em up. would you like a foolproof tip for keeping caulking good after opening? wrap painter's tape around the tip and extend the wrap about an inch or so above the nozzle (wrapping like a barber pole stripe). then squeeze the caulk so you see it swell up inside the tape and then release the pressure. the next time (a day or 6 months later) just remove the tape and pull off the hardened stuff which will come off with the tape. then you can squirt fresh caulk from the tube like it has just been opened for the first time. You can repeat this process over and over. I stumbled upon it after using the worthless "trick" of shoving a nail into the tip, which doesn't work with a crap. it works with panel adhesive, silicone and other caulks. Dave |
#9
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
"My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant..
They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless of the measures I take to seal 'em up. " In this case I don't have a problem with caulks...I just wrap a piece of tape around the open tip and put in on a shelf which is subject to normal indoor temperatures and humidity. TMT |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
"David" wrote in message . .. The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote: Too_Many_Tools wrote: How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. I've got botles of CA that sat in my shed for probably 10 years that are still usable. Building a trainer with my son with 'em. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. Never had a can around long enough (used to do a LOT of laminate work) to let it sit... - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. The yellow stuff? Same as the CA.. Just seems to last and last as long as the cover is on the bottle. My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant.. They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless of the measures I take to seal 'em up. would you like a foolproof tip for keeping caulking good after opening? wrap painter's tape around the tip and extend the wrap about an inch or so above the nozzle (wrapping like a barber pole stripe). then squeeze the caulk so you see it swell up inside the tape and then release the pressure. the next time (a day or 6 months later) just remove the tape and pull off the hardened stuff which will come off with the tape. then you can squirt fresh caulk from the tube like it has just been opened for the first time. You can repeat this process over and over. I stumbled upon it after using the worthless "trick" of shoving a nail into the tip, which doesn't work with a crap. it works with panel adhesive, silicone and other caulks. Dave how is this different than the tubes that come with caps? i have the same problem with them? i've cut open the tubes when i can't get anything to come out, and the curing seems to work it's way down the tube from both ends once they're used. also note that they have an expiration date. if past that, they sometimes don't harden at all. also, heat seems to degrade them when in storage, or at least when i keep them in my garage, which is probably 130 or more in the summer, it does. regards, charlie http://glassartists.org/chaniarts |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Charles Spitzer wrote:
"David" wrote in message . .. The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote: Too_Many_Tools wrote: How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. I've got botles of CA that sat in my shed for probably 10 years that are still usable. Building a trainer with my son with 'em. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. Never had a can around long enough (used to do a LOT of laminate work) to let it sit... - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. The yellow stuff? Same as the CA.. Just seems to last and last as long as the cover is on the bottle. My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant.. They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless of the measures I take to seal 'em up. would you like a foolproof tip for keeping caulking good after opening? wrap painter's tape around the tip and extend the wrap about an inch or so above the nozzle (wrapping like a barber pole stripe). then squeeze the caulk so you see it swell up inside the tape and then release the pressure. the next time (a day or 6 months later) just remove the tape and pull off the hardened stuff which will come off with the tape. then you can squirt fresh caulk from the tube like it has just been opened for the first time. You can repeat this process over and over. I stumbled upon it after using the worthless "trick" of shoving a nail into the tip, which doesn't work with a crap. it works with panel adhesive, silicone and other caulks. Dave how is this different than the tubes that come with caps? i have the same problem with them? i've cut open the tubes when i can't get anything to come out, and the curing seems to work it's way down the tube from both ends once they're used. also note that they have an expiration date. if past that, they sometimes don't harden at all. also, heat seems to degrade them when in storage, or at least when i keep them in my garage, which is probably 130 or more in the summer, it does. regards, charlie http://glassartists.org/chaniarts forget the caps. use the tape. dave |
#12
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever. Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia. So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working temperature. er -- email not valid |
#13
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
"Robert Swinney" wrote: And with epoxies, be sure not to mix before needed. Sorry, I couldn't resist! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ And I can't resist either. I ALWAYS mix my epoxy BEFORE I apply it. |
#14
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Store all perishables at the...store! |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Not to mention, the nail rusts and contaminates the caulk.
David wrote: I stumbled upon it after using the worthless "trick" of shoving a nail into the tip, which doesn't work with a crap. it works with panel adhesive, silicone and other caulks. Dave |
#16
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Are you storing your CA anywhere your bottle of accelerator?. Do you ever
add CA to a joint after spraying accelerator near it? The accelerator vapors that get into open CA will severely shorten its life. -- Mike Norton wrote in message oups.com... Too_Many_Tools wrote: How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad? Thanks TMT buy smaller quantities and use it faster. |
#17
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
I have found that old CA glue, though not solid, is not as good as
fresh CA. Several times I've used CA from an old container and wished I'd have just opened a fresh one. At least for borderline applications. |
#18
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Yeah, but I meant a LONG time Before. You get the picture! Read my mind,
not my test! Bob Swinney "Leo Lichtman" wrote in message ... "Robert Swinney" wrote: And with epoxies, be sure not to mix before needed. Sorry, I couldn't resist! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ And I can't resist either. I ALWAYS mix my epoxy BEFORE I apply it. |
#19
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message ups.com... "My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant.. They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless of the measures I take to seal 'em up. " In this case I don't have a problem with caulks...I just wrap a piece of tape around the open tip and put in on a shelf which is subject to normal indoor temperatures and humidity. I have the same frustration with silicones and the likes. I love the GOOP-type products, as well as high-temp silicone sealer. The stuff is expensive and it seems I only get to use it once or twice before the whole tube sets up. :-( Good flying, desmobob |
#20
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Hello TMT:
I have had very little success storing the cyanoacrylate adhesives (Krazy glue or Super Glue) that come in the tiny tubes. It hardens after the first or second use. The larger half-ounce or 1 oz bottles from hobby stores seem to last much better, even at room temperature. They do have a tendency to polymerize at the tip and the lid fills up with crud, but cutting off the tip and using the fine tips that the hobby store has, seems to help. I used a 1/2 oz bottle of thin CA for about six months.....it ran out before it went bad. Best -- Terry |
#21
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz "AT"
adelphia "DOT" net wrote: On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 12:16:18 -0800, Enoch Root wrote: I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever. Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia. So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working temperature. Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out. That's completely mangling the physics. What matters is that the humidity level is 100%. The drying out effect is actually due to ice condensing out of the air on the coldest surfaces and its that effect that drys things out. |
#22
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out. Rod is right. There's may be less moisture in the air at that temperature, as you say, but it'll still be absorbed. Even more so, perhaps, if you place the glue next to the cooling fin it'll be often cooler than the surrounding refrigerated air, and you'll be in the same situation as when you just take it out into the ambient air. Good to keep it in airtight plastic. er -- email not valid |
#23
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
"I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it
applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever. Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia. So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working temperature. er" Good point about the potential of condensation that might cause a problem with the super glue. I do know that I store the super glue in a closed container with dessicant. The glue is removed from the jar, used, and replaced in the jar again in a very short time so it is exposed to any moisture for a very short time. The contact cement I have seems to solidify even when there is solvent still in the can...very curious since I thought contact cement was a solvent evaporation process. TMT |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
On 27 Jan 2006 09:53:08 -0800, "Too_Many_Tools"
wrote: How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad? Thanks TMT Most of these glues will keep up to 2 years if kept tightly closed and at room temperatures. Elmer's glue will thicken if it freezes. Personally, I try not to buy much more glue than I can use within 12 months. Some glues have a shorter shelf life. |
#25
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Rod Speed wrote:
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT" net wrote: On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 12:16:18 -0800, Enoch Root wrote: I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever. Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia. So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working temperature. Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out. That's completely mangling the physics. What matters is that the humidity level is 100%. It's going to be the dew point for the air localized around the cool object, I think. You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient temperature, meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the dew point, but because the air temp drops around the object you cross the dew point and condensation occurs. But it's been sloshing around in the back of my head for a while now, so I may have that wrong. er -- email not valid |
#26
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant.. They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless of the measures I take to seal 'em up. Lee Valley Tools sells some caps for tubes that look like tiny red condoms. They're cheap -- a few bucks for 20-25, IIRC. Squeeze a tiny ball of caulk or whatever out of the tip (supposedly to be sure the air is out of the tip) then put one of these jobbies on the tip and unroll it (they're about 1.5" long). When you need the caulk again, just roll up the cap and it's ready to go. Afterwards, the cap can be reused. I've had open tubes of silicone caulk, latex caulk and Liquid Nails that have been fine when opened after being stored for a year in the basement. Tove |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Tove Momerathsson wrote:
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote: My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant.. They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless of the measures I take to seal 'em up. Lee Valley Tools sells some caps for tubes that look like tiny red condoms. They're cheap -- a few bucks for 20-25, IIRC. Squeeze a tiny ball of caulk or whatever out of the tip (supposedly to be sure the air is out of the tip) then put one of these jobbies on the tip and unroll it (they're about 1.5" long). When you need the caulk again, just roll up the cap and it's ready to go. Afterwards, the cap can be reused. I've had open tubes of silicone caulk, latex caulk and Liquid Nails that have been fine when opened after being stored for a year in the basement. Tove the blue tape trick is cheaper... dave |
#28
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Enoch Root wrote
Rod Speed wrote The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT" net wrote Enoch Root wrote I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever. Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia. So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working temperature. Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out. That's completely mangling the physics. What matters is that the humidity level is 100%. It's going to be the dew point for the air localized around the cool object, I think. It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge. You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient temperature, meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the dew point, but because the air temp drops around the object you cross the dew point and condensation occurs. Thats mangling the story too. The dew point is just the temp at which dew occurs and is basically 100% relative humidty then. But it's been sloshing around in the back of my head for a while now, so I may have that wrong. Yeah, it is rather mangled. |
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Rod Speed wrote:
Enoch Root wrote Rod Speed wrote The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT" net wrote Enoch Root wrote I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever. Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia. So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working temperature. Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out. That's completely mangling the physics. What matters is that the humidity level is 100%. It's going to be the dew point for the air localized around the cool object, I think. It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge. You seem to still be thinking inside the box. Remove the object from the icebox, and what the dew point in the icebox is irrelevant. I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low, and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the icebox. You won't get any condensation (unless relative hum. is 100%) until you cross the dew point. You'll do this even if the relative humidity isn't 100% in a localized area around a cool object if the object cools the surrounding area to the dew point. You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient temperature, meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the dew point, but because the air temp drops around the object you cross the dew point and condensation occurs. Thats mangling the story too. The dew point is just the temp at which dew occurs and is basically 100% relative humidty then. But it's been sloshing around in the back of my head for a while now, so I may have that wrong. Yeah, it is rather mangled. I assume the rest of your post is still inside the box. er -- email not valid |
#30
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Enoch Root wrote
Rod Speed wrote Enoch Root wrote Rod Speed wrote The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT" net wrote Enoch Root wrote I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever. Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia. So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working temperature. Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out. That's completely mangling the physics. What matters is that the humidity level is 100%. It's going to be the dew point for the air localized around the cool object, I think. It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge. You seem to still be thinking inside the box. Nope, you are. Remove the object from the icebox, and what the dew point in the icebox is irrelevant. I wasnt even commenting on that situation, I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim. I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low, and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the icebox. Because I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim. You won't get any condensation (unless relative hum. is 100%) until you cross the dew point. You'll do this even if the relative humidity isn't 100% in a localized area around a cool object if the object cools the surrounding area to the dew point. Irrelevant to his DRYING OUT claim which I was commenting on. You can have a low relative humidity at the ambient temperature, meaning a large difference between the air temp. and the dew point, but because the air temp drops around the object you cross the dew point and condensation occurs. Thats mangling the story too. The dew point is just the temp at which dew occurs and is basically 100% relative humidty then. But it's been sloshing around in the back of my head for a while now, so I may have that wrong. Yeah, it is rather mangled. I assume the rest of your post is still inside the box. Nope, yours is. |
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Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
The Pete C. entity posted thusly:
I don't use the Elmer's wood glue, all I have used in recent years is the Titebond II which I have excellent results with. I typically have one of the big jugs of the stuff and use it to refill a couple of the smaller squeeze bottles with the push pull tops. These have sat in the shop over hot summers and cold winters and I've use it under all temperatures without any problems. I have always kept my Titebond in the house, as I wondered about the cold. What do you call 'cold winters'? |
#32
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Must be sorry you asked the question by now - who said anything about caulk?
Anyway, CA glue ( like urethane glue, i.e Gorilla glue) cues in the presences of moister. Air contains moister so its important to get as much air out of the container as possible before you store it. Since it chemically cures rather than drying by evaporation, the fridge is a good idea since most chemical reactions are directly proportionally to temp. Also, store the container upside down so the air in the container is 'at the bottom' and not the top where you're trying to get the glue out. Yellow glue is a similar problem for a different reason. It cures through evaporation which air in the container will facilitate. Again, squeeze the air out. It will thicken if frozen and Titebond says you can remedy this by stirring. If it thickens without freezing I'd say its started curing and there's little hope of reviving it. Having said this, Titebond claims its shelf life in years. So I think air is the problem if you glue is thickening. I have to admit ignorance on contact cement, but I assume it could be revived with the relevant solvent (lacquer thinner?) since you have to worry about releasing contact cement glued veneer by spraying lacquer on it. My glues are all store on their heads with the air (well most of it) squeezed out it. "Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message oups.com... How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. Any hints as to how to keep glue stored so it doesn't go bad? Thanks TMT |
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Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
- Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. i remember when superglue was expensive. now it can be bought at the 99 cent store. FWIW, there are 3 different packaging methods for it. the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce it.that works ok. then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss. mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up. |
#34
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
"the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce
it.that works ok. then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss. mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up. " I used to buy the mini-bottle...and quit when I only got one use from it. I now buy the mini foil tubes...and they seldom last two applications. Anyone know how they prevent the factory equipment from plugging up with super glue gone bad? TMT |
#35
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Rod Speed wrote:
Enoch Root wrote I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low, and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the icebox. Because I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim. Well I don't know anything about the inside of a refrigerator that would indicate it was governed by any other laws of physics than those present in the outside world. It all still applies. And he might be right that the freezer is drying it out. If the object is embedded or surrounded by ice its temperature will oscillilate with a much lower amplitude than that of the refrigerator air. And it'll probably, on average, be higher than the average temperature of the air in the freezer. Therefore its vapor pressure will be marginally higher and there *will* be a net flow of water vapor out. It happens to meat that's ruined by "freezer burn", which is just partially freeze dried meat. er -- email not valid |
#36
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Enoch Root wrote
Rod Speed wrote Enoch Root wrote Rod Speed wrote Enoch Root wrote Rod Speed wrote The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT" net wrote Enoch Root wrote I think this whenever I see the "refrigeration" storage method, as it applies to glue, coffee beans, whatever. Most think this is all there is to it, but you have to consider that, whenever you take that item out of the refrigerator, it is a magnet for water in the air and will absorb it until its temperature reaches equilibrium with the surrounding environment. Water in your superglue, water in your beans, its all bad and it all accelerates the degradation process possibly even more than letting it sit on the shelf. Plus if you use as many beans as I do per cuppa joe, there just aint no sense in it unless you're buying the 50lb. econopak direct from colombia. So if you are going to use this method remember that and don't take it out of its (airtight) bag until it has set for awhile at the working temperature. Good point. Remember, cold air is much less moisture laden than warm air so the fridge may actually be drying the stuff out. That's completely mangling the physics. What matters is that the humidity level is 100%. It's going to be the dew point for the air localized around the cool object, I think. It should be at the dew point thruout the fridge. You seem to still be thinking inside the box. Nope, you are. Remove the object from the icebox, and what the dew point in the icebox is irrelevant. I wasnt even commenting on that situation, I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim. I'm talking about *ambient* relative humidity, which can be quite low, and you (having only mentioned humidity)... were still inside the icebox. Because I was JUST commenting on his DRYING OUT claim. Well I don't know anything about the inside of a refrigerator that would indicate it was governed by any other laws of physics than those present in the outside world. It all still applies. No it doesnt. There is no equivalent outside the fridge of the area where frost forms inside the fridge. Its that that produces the drying out of food etc that isnt covered etc. And he might be right that the freezer is drying it out. That wasnt what he said about the MECHANISM. If the object is embedded or surrounded by ice its temperature will oscillilate with a much lower amplitude than that of the refrigerator air. Irrelevant what was being discussed, THE DRYING OUT. And it'll probably, on average, be higher than the average temperature of the air in the freezer. Wrong again. Therefore its vapor pressure will be marginally higher and there *will* be a net flow of water vapor out. Utterly mangled all over again with what causes DRYING OUT. It happens to meat that's ruined by "freezer burn", Nope, not the way you claim. which is just partially freeze dried meat. No its not. Its the dried out meat. Dying out even when frozen. |
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Thanks, that's a keeper. Cheers, JG
David wrote: The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote: Too_Many_Tools wrote: How do you store your various glues? With three different glues, I seldom have success. - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. I keep the super glue container with its secured cap in a jar with dessicant in the refrigerator. I've got botles of CA that sat in my shed for probably 10 years that are still usable. Building a trainer with my son with 'em. - Contact glue With contact glue, again I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the can has solidified. I keep the contact glue with its secured cap in a sealed ziplock bag in the refrigerator. Never had a can around long enough (used to do a LOT of laminate work) to let it sit... - Elmer's woodworking glue With Elmer's woodworking glue, I notice that if an container is opened the glue slowly thickens and finally turns into a sold mass within the the container even if stored at room temperature with the cap securely tightened. The yellow stuff? Same as the CA.. Just seems to last and last as long as the cover is on the bottle. My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant.. They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless of the measures I take to seal 'em up. would you like a foolproof tip for keeping caulking good after opening? wrap painter's tape around the tip and extend the wrap about an inch or so above the nozzle (wrapping like a barber pole stripe). then squeeze the caulk so you see it swell up inside the tape and then release the pressure. the next time (a day or 6 months later) just remove the tape and pull off the hardened stuff which will come off with the tape. then you can squirt fresh caulk from the tube like it has just been opened for the first time. You can repeat this process over and over. I stumbled upon it after using the worthless "trick" of shoving a nail into the tip, which doesn't work with a crap. it works with panel adhesive, silicone and other caulks. Dave |
#38
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
SoCalMike wrote:
Too_Many_Tools wrote: - Super glue With super glue, I use it once and when I come back later to use it again the tube has hardened. i remember when superglue was expensive. now it can be bought at the 99 cent store. FWIW, there are 3 different packaging methods for it. the "original" is in a plastic tube-thingie with a pin/cap to pierce it.that works ok. then theres the mini-bottle, which is hit and miss. mini foil tubes are the worst, they always dry up. I recently bought superglue in a squeeze-pen dispenser...I don't know how it's going to stand up to the test of time, but it is very easy to control the application. |
#39
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
I press masking tape over the open tip and then wrap the rest around the
nozzle. I get up to 6 months or more with caulk and silicone. Sometimes you have to squirt out thickened caulk or silicone. The High temp silicone in Al tubes I put a piece of Al foil over the end and put the cap back on lasts for years that way. Don't have a fix for super glue yet. Karl "Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message ups.com... "My "longevity" issue is with tubes of caulk or silicone sealant.. They never seem to last more than a week after I open 'em, regardless of the measures I take to seal 'em up. " In this case I don't have a problem with caulks...I just wrap a piece of tape around the open tip and put in on a shelf which is subject to normal indoor temperatures and humidity. TMT |
#40
Posted to misc.consumers.frugal-living,rec.crafts.metalworking,rec.woodworking,rec.models.rc.air
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Glues and Their Proper Storage
Oleg Lego wrote:
The Pete C. entity posted thusly: I don't use the Elmer's wood glue, all I have used in recent years is the Titebond II which I have excellent results with. I typically have one of the big jugs of the stuff and use it to refill a couple of the smaller squeeze bottles with the push pull tops. These have sat in the shop over hot summers and cold winters and I've use it under all temperatures without any problems. I have always kept my Titebond in the house, as I wondered about the cold. What do you call 'cold winters'? North Texas these days so not too cold, but get down to 30s on occasion in the shop. Highs in the shop would be upper 90s. Pete C. |