Picture posted to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

A friend and I were discussing ways to drill cribbage board holes with
reasonable accuracy, and this is what I came up with. Remembering that
there was some discussion about this on the wreck, I thought I'd post
it here.

In case it isn't self explanatory, here are a few salient points.

This will only work for holes that go all the way through, though it's
not difficult to imagine building it to allow the board to be
underneath the jig,

The large top piece is the jig itself, and the 6 pieces below it
represent the board, moved along for each hole to be drilled.

The jig should be clamped to the drill press table, and should have a
fence to set the position of the line of holes.

The first hole is drilled wherever you want to start, and the next 4
are drilled by using a pin through hole 'b' and the previous board
hole.

The 6th hole is positioned by putting the pin through hole 'a' and the
first hole drilled in the board. All subsequent holes in the line are
positioned using hole 'a', ensuring proper spacing for both individual
holes and hole groups.

Any and all critiques are welcome.

Larry

It's easy enough to modify the jig for a drop-pin to align the holes
without drilling through.
Bugs

Simply buy a cheap Cribbage game in the layout that you like and use the
game board for the template. Double stick tape it on top to the piece you
will be making and drill through the game board holes. Let the game board
that you bought be the template guide.


"Oleg Lego" wrote in message
...
Picture posted to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

A friend and I were discussing ways to drill cribbage board holes with
reasonable accuracy, and this is what I came up with. Remembering that
there was some discussion about this on the wreck, I thought I'd post
it here.

In case it isn't self explanatory, here are a few salient points.

This will only work for holes that go all the way through, though it's
not difficult to imagine building it to allow the board to be
underneath the jig,

The large top piece is the jig itself, and the 6 pieces below it
represent the board, moved along for each hole to be drilled.

The jig should be clamped to the drill press table, and should have a
fence to set the position of the line of holes.

The first hole is drilled wherever you want to start, and the next 4
are drilled by using a pin through hole 'b' and the previous board
hole.

The 6th hole is positioned by putting the pin through hole 'a' and the
first hole drilled in the board. All subsequent holes in the line are
positioned using hole 'a', ensuring proper spacing for both individual
holes and hole groups.

Any and all critiques are welcome.

Larry

The Leon entity posted thusly:

Simply buy a cheap Cribbage game in the layout that you like and use the
game board for the template. Double stick tape it on top to the piece you
will be making and drill through the game board holes. Let the game board
that you bought be the template guide.

I thought of that, but one of the problems I always have is
positioning the piece accurately enough. Every time I move the piece
to a new position, I stand the chance of having the drill bit wear the
hole in the pattern. I was looking for a way to avoid having to use
the pattern holes in that manner.

"Oleg Lego"

A friend and I were discussing ways to drill cribbage board holes with
reasonable accuracy, and this is what I came up with. Remembering that
there was some discussion about this on the wreck, I thought I'd post
it here.
snip
Any and all critiques are welcome.

Larry

I did mine with one of these.
http://stores.ebay.com/Cribbage-Craft

I worked very well.

Dave

Oleg Lego wrote:

Picture posted to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

A friend and I were discussing ways to drill cribbage board holes with
reasonable accuracy, and this is what I came up with. Remembering that
there was some discussion about this on the wreck, I thought I'd post
it here.
snip
Any and all critiques are welcome.

Should work, but a word of caution (based on my experience with a
similar jig): Be VERY careful that the jig and workpiece stay very
tight to the fence. Get a shaving between the workpiece and the fence,
and you will create an error in that hole, which will start
compounding when that hole is used as the reverence hole on the peg.
I'd suggest filing off the side of the peg farthest from the fence so
that you can always keep the workpiece tight to the fence (but don't
create slop in the direction along the fence.

Here's an alternative, how I would probably do it:

cut a stop block and six spader blocks:
1 width spacer is the length of the workpiece, and the width of the
distance between centers of the two rows of holes.
1 group spacer is the length of the distance between groups of holes
4 hole spacers are the length of the distance between holes (I'd make
these by ripping, then thicknessing a piece to desired spacing, then
cutting into 4 blocks.

To use, set the stop block on the left, and move the fence back to
register for the row of holes farthest from the fence. Align the stop
block to target the hole farthest from the block. So if the stop block
is on your left, you will first drill the lowest right-hand hole.
Then insert the width spacer to drill the opposite hole, insert one of
hole spacers between the workpiece and the stop block, drill, remove
the width spacer, drill, ... ending up with the group spacer to drill
the first pair of holes in the next group. Then with the workpiece
held steady, remove the spacers and register the stop block to the
workpiece, clamp it, and with the drill off confirm that the bit is
still registered to the last hole you drilled. Then repeat.

--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

alexy wrote:


compounding when that hole is used as the reverence hole on the peg.

"reference hole", obviously! Gotta fine won of those spell checkers
that can reed my mine.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"Oleg Lego" wrote in message
...
The Leon entity posted thusly:

Simply buy a cheap Cribbage game in the layout that you like and use the
game board for the template. Double stick tape it on top to the piece you
will be making and drill through the game board holes. Let the game board
that you bought be the template guide.

I thought of that, but one of the problems I always have is
positioning the piece accurately enough. Every time I move the piece
to a new position, I stand the chance of having the drill bit wear the
hole in the pattern. I was looking for a way to avoid having to use
the pattern holes in that manner.


If you are using a drill press it should not be an issue unless you plan on
making 100's and in that case make several master templates.

The alexy entity posted thusly:

Oleg Lego wrote:

Picture posted to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

A friend and I were discussing ways to drill cribbage board holes with
reasonable accuracy, and this is what I came up with. Remembering that
there was some discussion about this on the wreck, I thought I'd post
it here.
snip
Any and all critiques are welcome.

Should work, but a word of caution (based on my experience with a
similar jig): Be VERY careful that the jig and workpiece stay very
tight to the fence. Get a shaving between the workpiece and the fence,
and you will create an error in that hole, which will start
compounding when that hole is used as the reverence hole on the peg.
I'd suggest filing off the side of the peg farthest from the fence so
that you can always keep the workpiece tight to the fence (but don't
create slop in the direction along the fence.

Here's an alternative, how I would probably do it:

.... instructions snipped ...

Sounds like a good method. Thanks!

Larry

Larry, I designed such a setup using computer CAD program. It puts a +
sign at center of each hole. I print that, spray stick to board and
drill into each +.

Thats the easy part, my challenge is how do you color each players path
differently ? I want peg setup for 3 players, each having different
colored wood for their path. I have not figured out how to cut these on
scrollsaw? or other? to get a seamless path.

No kidding, send over the board dims and I would be happy to layout the
pattern for you and email back a jpeg.

Thoughts ? Tom

Can you explaian how you did this, or give some more info. I'd like to
do the same thing.

On 28 Jan 2006 07:36:32 -0800, "Tom" wrote:

Larry, I designed such a setup using computer CAD program. It puts a +
sign at center of each hole. I print that, spray stick to board and
drill into each +.

Thats the easy part, my challenge is how do you color each players path
differently ? I want peg setup for 3 players, each having different
colored wood for their path. I have not figured out how to cut these on
scrollsaw? or other? to get a seamless path.

No kidding, send over the board dims and I would be happy to layout the
pattern for you and email back a jpeg.

Thoughts ? Tom

John Hewitt, Malaga, Spain

The comment about wood chips under the jig is very good. I have learned
to cut some chip clearance on the jig corners and keep shop air handy
for keeping the jig clear.
Bugs

Thu, Jan 26, 2006, 10:35am (EST-1) (Oleg*Lego)
did post Leon's reply like this:
The Leon entity posted thusly:
Simply buy a cheap Cribbage game in the layout that you like and use the
game board for the template. Double stick tape it on top to the piece
you will be making and drill through the game board holes. Let the game
board that you bought be the template guide.

And then decided to say:
I thought of that, but one of the problems I always have is positioning
the piece accurately enough. Every time I move the piece to a new
position, I stand the chance of having the drill bit wear the hole in
the pattern. I was looking for a way to avoid having to use the pattern
holes in that manner.

Drill bit wear the hole. Hmmm. The few times I'm faced with
using a previously drilled hole as a guide, I turn the drill off, lower
the bit until it's centered in the hole, THEN turn the drill back on and
drill. You mean you don't turn the drill off?



JOAT
You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and
it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.

Sat, Jan 28, 2006, 7:36am (EST-3) (Tom) sayeth:
snip Thats the easy part, my challenge is how do you color each
players path differently ? snip

That's easy. Laminate a different color wood for each player. Or
veneer different color strips. Or paint. Or different color pegs -
that's the way it used to be done.



JOAT
You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and
it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.

The J T entity posted thusly:

Thu, Jan 26, 2006, 10:35am (EST-1) (Oleg*Lego)
did post Leon's reply like this:
The Leon entity posted thusly:
Simply buy a cheap Cribbage game in the layout that you like and use the
game board for the template. Double stick tape it on top to the piece
you will be making and drill through the game board holes. Let the game
board that you bought be the template guide.

And then decided to say:
I thought of that, but one of the problems I always have is positioning
the piece accurately enough. Every time I move the piece to a new
position, I stand the chance of having the drill bit wear the hole in
the pattern. I was looking for a way to avoid having to use the pattern
holes in that manner.

Drill bit wear the hole. Hmmm. The few times I'm faced with
using a previously drilled hole as a guide, I turn the drill off, lower
the bit until it's centered in the hole, THEN turn the drill back on and
drill. You mean you don't turn the drill off?

Exactly. At my age, turning the drill off to align each of the 390 or
so holes might mean the difference between getting to play a game on
it or having the unfinished project inlaid into my coffin lid.


---
I want to die peacefully, in my sleep, like
my grandfather, not screaming in terror,
like his passengers.

The entity posted thusly:

Can you explaian how you did this, or give some more info. I'd like to
do the same thing.

On 28 Jan 2006 07:36:32 -0800, "Tom" wrote:

Larry, I designed such a setup using computer CAD program. It puts a +
sign at center of each hole. I print that, spray stick to board and
drill into each +.

If you can lay it out, why not just send it to your CNC machine?

Thats the easy part, my challenge is how do you color each players path
differently ? I want peg setup for 3 players, each having different
colored wood for their path. I have not figured out how to cut these on
scrollsaw? or other? to get a seamless path.

Cut the layout with your CNC machine?

No kidding, send over the board dims and I would be happy to layout the
pattern for you and email back a jpeg.

No, but thanks for the offer. If I wanted to do it that way, I'd just
write a little PostScript thingy to lay it out.. I did this idea up
for a friend who is trying to improve his boards. They are a folding
design, with peg and card storage inside.

He makes them with walnut, birch, purpleheart and cherry, laminated.
For the curved parts of the 'track', he cuts them with a bandsaw.

Larry

Larry, you solicited "all ideas"; sorry for upsetting you. I have the
CAD skills (for work), but no CNC.

The Tom entity posted thusly:

Larry, you solicited "all ideas"; sorry for upsetting you. I have the
CAD skills (for work), but no CNC.

Oh! Sorry!

For some reason I had you confused with Morris Dovey, who does have a
CNC machine. No idea why I confused the two of you, but I did.

At any rate, you did not upset me, and I apologize for coming across
that way. I did indeed solicit all ideas, and that isn't a bad one at
all.

Larry

Oleg Lego (in ) said:

| The Tom entity posted thusly:
|
|| Larry, you solicited "all ideas"; sorry for upsetting you. I have
|| the CAD skills (for work), but no CNC.
|
| Oh! Sorry!
|
| For some reason I had you confused with Morris Dovey, who does have
| a CNC machine. No idea why I confused the two of you, but I did.
|
| At any rate, you did not upset me, and I apologize for coming across
| that way. I did indeed solicit all ideas, and that isn't a bad one
| at all.

It's actually the kind of job at which CNC machines excel.

I've been wondering why not make a hardboard template using a
countersink bit - then use that template with a vix bit to drill the
actual board? This approach should allow good registration for
repeated use of the template without template wear or damage...

[ And no problem on confusing me. I'm confused most of the time :-p ]

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

The Morris Dovey entity posted thusly:

It's actually the kind of job at which CNC machines excel.

They sure do!

I've been wondering why not make a hardboard template using a
countersink bit - then use that template with a vix bit to drill the
actual board? This approach should allow good registration for
repeated use of the template without template wear or damage...

Interesting! A Google search led me to some examples of vix bits. I
had not heard of them before.

Larry

Oleg Lego (in ) said:

| The Morris Dovey entity posted thusly:
|
|| It's actually the kind of job at which CNC machines excel.
|
| They sure do!
|
|| I've been wondering why not make a hardboard template using a
|| countersink bit - then use that template with a vix bit to drill
|| the actual board? This approach should allow good registration for
|| repeated use of the template without template wear or damage...
|
| Interesting! A Google search led me to some examples of vix bits. I
| had not heard of them before.

They're readily available from many sources as "self-centering" bits.
I got a set from Lee Valley, who offer sizes down to 5/64".

Drilling depth is limited with these bits; but once the holes have
been "spotted" they should be easy to re-drill (use the depth stop on
your drill press) to the depth you want.

If you make a lot of boards, it might be worthwhile to make your
template from something more durable - like 1/8" aluminum, which
should last a lifetime.

An afterthought:

I'm not a cribbage player and haven't seen a board for a long time. If
the holes are too closely spaced for sufficiently deep countersinking
in the template, it might be necessary to make two templates (each
with half the holes) - in which case you'd want to provide some
reliable way to register both templates to a pair of reference edges
on the workpieces.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto