I'm looking at re-making my clothes closet to a book shelf unit. I've
been contemplating putting up some 3/4" MDF on each side and running
lengths for the shelves going down. (The span is approximately 3').

I've never used a routing system before and am looking for
recommendations for how deep the cut should go for the 3/4" shelves to
slide in? Would simply glueing them in make a strong enough bond?

Thanks for any suggestions,

JW

"Jim" wrote in message
m...

"Justin West" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm looking at re-making my clothes closet to a book shelf unit. I've
been contemplating putting up some 3/4" MDF on each side and running
lengths for the shelves going down. (The span is approximately 3').

I've never used a routing system before and am looking for
recommendations for how deep the cut should go for the 3/4" shelves to
slide in? Would simply glueing them in make a strong enough bond?

Thanks for any suggestions,

JW

The usual depth would be 1/4 inch (I am assuming that you mean the depth
of a dado cut). You would glue them in the dado. By the way, isn't 3
feet more than a bit long for MDF?

It will hold up fine with a maximum load of around 10lbs (depends on depth).
Check out "The Sagulator!!"

http://www.woodworkersweb.com/sagulator.htm

--
Stoutman
http://home.triad.rr.com/brianmeliss...ing_frames.htm
(Featuring a NEW look)

The usual depth would be 1/4 inch (I am assuming that you mean the depth of
a dado cut). You would glue them in the dado. By the way, isn't 3 feet
more than a bit long for MDF?
MDF is heavy but weak.
Jim

I agree with Jim that 3/4" MDF is a bit weak for a 3' span-- especially
for books. I'd use a centered stile in the back and front-- about 2"
wide made of pine or even 3/4" plywood dadoed the same as the sides
that will accept the shelves. , ( a brace running back to front would
be even stronger-) When assembling, the front stile in the center
would be the last thing to go on.

"Justin West" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm looking at re-making my clothes closet to a book shelf unit. I've
been contemplating putting up some 3/4" MDF on each side and running
lengths for the shelves going down. (The span is approximately 3').

I've never used a routing system before and am looking for
recommendations for how deep the cut should go for the 3/4" shelves to
slide in? Would simply glueing them in make a strong enough bond?

Thanks for any suggestions,

JW

The usual depth would be 1/4 inch (I am assuming that you mean the depth of
a dado cut). You would glue them in the dado. By the way, isn't 3 feet
more than a bit long for MDF?
MDF is heavy but weak.
Jim

stoutman wrote:

It will hold up fine with a maximum load of around 10lbs (depends
on depth). Check out "The Sagulator!!"

http://www.woodworkersweb.com/sagulator.htm

It shows that a pine shelf 60" long, 1" wide and 1/2" thick will
deflect approx 60 feet with a 2000 lb load. Good to know ;-)

"Joe Barta" wrote in message
.. .
stoutman wrote:

It will hold up fine with a maximum load of around 10lbs (depends
on depth). Check out "The Sagulator!!"

http://www.woodworkersweb.com/sagulator.htm

It shows that a pine shelf 60" long, 1" wide and 1/2" thick will
deflect approx 60 feet with a 2000 lb load. Good to know ;-)

Maybe a new method for cold bending?

Back to the original topic, I'll second the 1/4" deep dados, but I'd
also agree you'd want something other than MDF for your shelving
material. Solid hardwood (3/4") should be fine for 3', or even strips
of pine under MDF as supports should work.
Alternatively, if you didn't want to rout dados, you could cut a bunch
of 1"x1"xshelf depth" strips to use as cleats, and set your shelves on
those. You'd still need something to support the MDF in the middle,
but that's another option for the sides.
Good luck and have fun,
Andy

"Phil at small (vs at large)" wrote in message
oups.com...


The usual depth would be 1/4 inch (I am assuming that you mean the depth
of
a dado cut). You would glue them in the dado. By the way, isn't 3 feet
more than a bit long for MDF?
MDF is heavy but weak.
Jim

I agree with Jim that 3/4" MDF is a bit weak for a 3' span-- especially
for books. I'd use a centered stile in the back and front-- about 2"
wide made of pine or even 3/4" plywood dadoed the same as the sides
that will accept the shelves. , ( a brace running back to front would
be even stronger-) When assembling, the front stile in the center
would be the last thing to go on.

That should work.
The OP will find that MDF breaks very easily. It also may crack when
nailed. It also does not hold screws well.
Otherwise, outside of its appearance, it is fine stuff.
(In your house that is).
Jim

Joe Barta wrote:
stoutman wrote:

It will hold up fine with a maximum load of around 10lbs (depends
on depth). Check out "The Sagulator!!"

http://www.woodworkersweb.com/sagulator.htm

It shows that a pine shelf 60" long, 1" wide and 1/2" thick will
deflect approx 60 feet with a 2000 lb load. Good to know ;-)

So THAT's how I can make that bend!

Justin West wrote:
I'm looking at re-making my clothes closet to a book shelf unit. I've
been contemplating putting up some 3/4" MDF on each side and running
lengths for the shelves going down. (The span is approximately 3').

As others have said, depending on the load, 3' might be too much. But
if you still want to use MDF, you could always attach a cleat to the
back wall to support the back edge of the shelf.

"Joe Barta" wrote in message
.. .
It shows that a pine shelf 60" long, 1" wide and 1/2" thick will
deflect approx 60 feet with a 2000 lb load. Good to know ;-)

Cool. A practical way to turn 60" of lumber into 120'.