After waiting 3 weeks for some veneer to arive the seller refunded my money
so I bought some veneer from another seller. I had origanaly bought a 4' x
8' sheet with paper back and some consecutive sheets. I have in the past
used the paper back with good results. I ended up buy all consecutive sheets
most are 12" wide so I will need to seem them. That shouldn't be to bad
correct? they are the length I need just not the width. These will be glued
to Melamine, in the past I sanded the side to be veneered and used contact
cement. The the consecutive veneers there is no paper backing so whats the
best glue to use? Anything I should know? these are for kitchen cabinets, I
have completed all but a few boxes with no vereering yet (Waited 3 weeks
each day wondering WHEN) so it looks like I will be doing a whole bunch of
veneering at once I was hoping to get this done before the holidays but
thats out now.

I ended up buy all consecutive sheets
most are 12" wide so I will need to seem them. That shouldn't be to bad
correct?

The hardest thing about seaming is making sure that the two edges are
perfectly "jointed". You should seam them together with veneer tape
before gluing down.

I joint the edges by sandwiching them between two boards and letting
about 1/16" stick out, then I use a router with a straight bit to joint
the edge. Obviosly the clamping boards have to be dead straight.

... in the past I sanded the side to be veneered and used contact
cement. .

Contact cement never gets really hard. It will always creep so the seam
may not stay together as the veneer and substrate move throughout the
seasons. The second problem with contact cement is that when some
finishes are applied, it soaks through the thin veneer and softens the
glue, causing the veneer to delaminate. Water based finishes are
probably OK. Paper backed veneers are recommended if you want to use
contact cement.

Wood craft sells a veneer glue called "Cold Press". It seems to be
similar to Yellow glue but it has some additives to keep it from
bleeding through to the surface. The ultimate veneer glue is a two part
urea glue (such as Unibond 800). This dries very hard and has a long
open time (which you sometimes need when fumbling with sheets of
veneer. Always apply the glue to the substrate. www.joewoddworker.com
has some good info on working with veneers.

Mitch

Thanks for the tip on routing/joining. Seeing I will be using NON paper back
I will need to worry more about glue bleed through. I was told that wood
glue will work but am worried about it bleeding into the grain. This is a
plain maple veneer 1/42 thick.
"MB" wrote in message
oups.com...
I ended up buy all consecutive sheets
most are 12" wide so I will need to seem them. That shouldn't be to bad
correct?

The hardest thing about seaming is making sure that the two edges are
perfectly "jointed". You should seam them together with veneer tape
before gluing down.

I joint the edges by sandwiching them between two boards and letting
about 1/16" stick out, then I use a router with a straight bit to joint
the edge. Obviosly the clamping boards have to be dead straight.

... in the past I sanded the side to be veneered and used contact
cement. .

Contact cement never gets really hard. It will always creep so the seam
may not stay together as the veneer and substrate move throughout the
seasons. The second problem with contact cement is that when some
finishes are applied, it soaks through the thin veneer and softens the
glue, causing the veneer to delaminate. Water based finishes are
probably OK. Paper backed veneers are recommended if you want to use
contact cement.

Wood craft sells a veneer glue called "Cold Press". It seems to be
similar to Yellow glue but it has some additives to keep it from
bleeding through to the surface. The ultimate veneer glue is a two part
urea glue (such as Unibond 800). This dries very hard and has a long
open time (which you sometimes need when fumbling with sheets of
veneer. Always apply the glue to the substrate. www.joewoddworker.com
has some good info on working with veneers.

Mitch

"wayne mak" wrote in message
...
After waiting 3 weeks for some veneer to arive the seller refunded my
money so I bought some veneer from another seller. I had origanaly bought
a 4' x 8' sheet with paper back and some consecutive sheets. I have in the
past used the paper back with good results. I ended up buy all consecutive
sheets most are 12" wide so I will need to seem them. That shouldn't be to
bad correct? they are the length I need just not the width. These will be
glued to Melamine, in the past I sanded the side to be veneered and used
contact cement. The the consecutive veneers there is no paper backing so
whats the best glue to use? Anything I should know? these are for kitchen
cabinets, I have completed all but a few boxes with no vereering yet
(Waited 3 weeks each day wondering WHEN) so it looks like I will be doing
a whole bunch of veneering at once I was hoping to get this done before
the holidays but thats out now.


I just compleated a similar job ,it worked out ok.

I would be leery about veneering on melamine as this surface is designed to
be impenetrable so the glue will have trouble getting a key .I would just
use regular MDF. For my job I used regular tightbond glue on MDF.

Use wax paper between the top caul and the veneer otherwise you will glue it
up if there is any glue bleed through. Any bleed through can be removed
after the glue has dried with a scaper and careful sanding.....

As mentioned "Joe Woodworker" is a good source of supplies and info, I have
delt with him in the past and highly recommend him.

I tried the link for joe woodworker buts its a dead end. I was thinking wax
paper also.
"mike hide" wrote in message
. ..

"wayne mak" wrote in message
...
After waiting 3 weeks for some veneer to arive the seller refunded my
money so I bought some veneer from another seller. I had origanaly bought
a 4' x 8' sheet with paper back and some consecutive sheets. I have in
the past used the paper back with good results. I ended up buy all
consecutive sheets most are 12" wide so I will need to seem them. That
shouldn't be to bad correct? they are the length I need just not the
width. These will be glued to Melamine, in the past I sanded the side to
be veneered and used contact cement. The the consecutive veneers there is
no paper backing so whats the best glue to use? Anything I should know?
these are for kitchen cabinets, I have completed all but a few boxes with
no vereering yet (Waited 3 weeks each day wondering WHEN) so it looks
like I will be doing a whole bunch of veneering at once I was hoping to
get this done before the holidays but thats out now.


I just compleated a similar job ,it worked out ok.

I would be leery about veneering on melamine as this surface is designed
to be impenetrable so the glue will have trouble getting a key .I would
just use regular MDF. For my job I used regular tightbond glue on MDF.

Use wax paper between the top caul and the veneer otherwise you will glue
it up if there is any glue bleed through. Any bleed through can be removed
after the glue has dried with a scaper and careful sanding.....

As mentioned "Joe Woodworker" is a good source of supplies and info, I
have delt with him in the past and highly recommend him.

On Wed, 7 Dec 2005 07:10:51 -0500, "wayne mak"
wrote:

I tried the link for joe woodworker buts its a dead end. I was thinking wax
paper also.

http://www.joewoodworker.com/

"wayne mak" wrote in message
...
I tried the link for joe woodworker buts its a dead end. I was thinking wax
paper also.


That link above was misspelled. Use the one Wes shows.

These will be glued to Melamine,

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas..._melamine.html

Here's the list of all their veneer articles:

http://www.woodweb.com/KnowledgeBase/KBVeneer.html

Their forums are useful too:

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/veneer.pl

Participants include manufacturers, so some of the advice is industrial
strength.