I'm running out of glue and it's time to restock. The local Borg carries
Elmers (interior wood glue) and tightbond.

I do not need water resistance. Chalk point, however is factor as I tend to
keep a cool shop. Elmers is a couple bucks cheaper than Titebond I
(original). Is there any reason why I should not consider just buy the
Elmers?

-Steve

no


Len

"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
I'm running out of glue and it's time to restock. The local Borg carries
Elmers (interior wood glue) and tightbond.

I do not need water resistance. Chalk point, however is factor as I tend
to
keep a cool shop. Elmers is a couple bucks cheaper than Titebond I
(original). Is there any reason why I should not consider just buy the
Elmers?

-Steve

I bought their Urethane Glue one day thinking aww it's all the same just
cheaper. Compared to Gorilla, it was crap! I did buy their stainable even
though no real problem with it.... I don't plan on purchasing it or any of
their products in the glue line!


"leonard" wrote in message
...
no


Len

"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
I'm running out of glue and it's time to restock. The local Borg carries
Elmers (interior wood glue) and tightbond.

I do not need water resistance. Chalk point, however is factor as I tend
to
keep a cool shop. Elmers is a couple bucks cheaper than Titebond I
(original). Is there any reason why I should not consider just buy the
Elmers?

-Steve

Stephen M wrote:

I'm running out of glue and it's time to restock. The local Borg carries
Elmers (interior wood glue) and tightbond.

I do not need water resistance. Chalk point, however is factor as I tend to
keep a cool shop. Elmers is a couple bucks cheaper than Titebond I
(original). Is there any reason why I should not consider just buy the
Elmers?


I personally don't like the Elmers as well---can't really say why other
than it just doesn't seem as good.

I use Type II yellow glues almost exclusively for ordinary
work--although the cost of glue is miniscule in the scheme of things so
I don't worry about the few bucks / gal. difference.

If you really need a lower chalk point, Type III is the only one w/ much
significant of a difference--but it's about twice the price.

"Stephen M" wrote in
:


Titebond I (original). Is there any reason why I should not consider
just buy the Elmers?

I'm sure Franklin Intl would disagree - but I consider Elmer's ProBond,
Loctite and TiteBond I to be pretty much interchangable and I let price
make my decision for me.

If you've got a Wal*Mart nearby, they've often got the Loctite PVA for a
good price.

pretty much interchangeable

FWIW, the best glue to use if you are into biscuits, is plain yellow Elmers.
Best consistency for ease of application.


"Patrick Conroy" wrote in message
...
"Stephen M" wrote in
:


Titebond I (original). Is there any reason why I should not consider
just buy the Elmers?

I'm sure Franklin Intl would disagree - but I consider Elmer's ProBond,
Loctite and TiteBond I to be pretty much interchangable and I let price
make my decision for me.

If you've got a Wal*Mart nearby, they've often got the Loctite PVA for a
good price.

I use Type II yellow glues almost exclusively for ordinary
work--although the cost of glue is miniscule in the scheme of things so
I don't worry about the few bucks / gal. difference.

If you really need a lower chalk point, Type III is the only one w/ much
significant of a difference--but it's about twice the price.

Thats not entirely true. According to to the tightbond people Original, II,
& III have chalk points of 50, 55 and 47 degrees respectively. There's a
bigger differnce between II and Original than Original and III.

"Rumpty" wrote in message
...
pretty much interchangeable

FWIW, the best glue to use if you are into biscuits, is plain yellow
Elmers. Best consistency for ease of application.


"Patrick Conroy" wrote in message
...
"Stephen M" wrote in
:


Titebond I (original). Is there any reason why I should not consider
just buy the Elmers?

I'm sure Franklin Intl would disagree - but I consider Elmer's ProBond,
Loctite and TiteBond I to be pretty much interchangable and I let price
make my decision for me.

If you've got a Wal*Mart nearby, they've often got the Loctite PVA for a
good price.


Just from personal experience, I'd tend to agree. They all work exceedingly
well and to the average woodworker, it's other factors, like drying time,
tackiness, price, or ease of cleanup that makes the difference.

I have a brand new bottle of Elmer's Stainable Glue, which I haven't tried
yet. This might be different.

James....

I should cite my source... some might find it interesting

http://www.titebond.com/download/pdf/ww/GlueGuideTB.pdf


"C & S" wrote in message
...
I use Type II yellow glues almost exclusively for ordinary
work--although the cost of glue is miniscule in the scheme of things so
I don't worry about the few bucks / gal. difference.

If you really need a lower chalk point, Type III is the only one w/ much
significant of a difference--but it's about twice the price.

Thats not entirely true. According to to the tightbond people Original,
II,
& III have chalk points of 50, 55 and 47 degrees respectively. There's a
bigger differnce between II and Original than Original and III.

I like the stuff they sell at Garrett Wade. I tested it and TB on some butt
joints and found it was significantly stronger. Plus they "claim" it fills
gaps. My joints are always perfect, so I can't confirm that.

It is rather more expensive, but how expensive is glue?

C & S wrote:

I use Type II yellow glues almost exclusively for ordinary
work--although the cost of glue is miniscule in the scheme of things so
I don't worry about the few bucks / gal. difference.

If you really need a lower chalk point, Type III is the only one w/ much
significant of a difference--but it's about twice the price.

Thats not entirely true. According to to the tightbond people Original, II,
& III have chalk points of 50, 55 and 47 degrees respectively. There's a
bigger differnce between II and Original than Original and III.

Thanks...I recalled the difference between II and III but didn't recall
that I was that much lower than II.

For grins, I inquired with the Borden (Elmers) folks. Here's what I got. I
find it hard to believe that this is a has any resemblence to the term chalk
point that the Franklin people use. It sounds more like a laywerly response
than a technical one.


Dear Steve,

We do not recommend using our Carpenter's Wood Glue at temperatures below
65°F without affecting the bond strength. I hope you find this information
helpful and look forward to serving you as a satisfied customer in the
future.

Brian Rumschlag
Consumer Response Analyst




"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
I'm running out of glue and it's time to restock. The local Borg carries
Elmers (interior wood glue) and tightbond.

I do not need water resistance. Chalk point, however is factor as I tend
to
keep a cool shop. Elmers is a couple bucks cheaper than Titebond I
(original). Is there any reason why I should not consider just buy the
Elmers?

-Steve

On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 14:15:29 -0400, "Stephen M"
wrote:

I'm running out of glue and it's time to restock. The local Borg carries
Elmers (interior wood glue) and tightbond.

I do not need water resistance. Chalk point, however is factor as I tend to
keep a cool shop. Elmers is a couple bucks cheaper than Titebond I
(original). Is there any reason why I should not consider just buy the
Elmers?

-Steve


I have used Elmers Woodworkers glue for over 25 years. It is stronger
than wood. You could buy a small amount of each and conduct an
experiment, but I think they are close to equal.