I would like to get a spray system for poly to save a lotta hassle
when finishing my (future) kitchen cabinets. Probably would steer
away from Harbor Freight. I remeber Apollo and Fuji as two brands
that folks liked.

Using a foam brsuh to put 3 coats on each cabinet..., well, let's just
say been there, done that, don't want to repeat.

Having done a little research, via googling the rec posts mainly, I
couldn't find the thread I sorta remembered that had some pretty good
dialogue on this subject.

What I found was HVLP is good. HVLP is bad for poly. Etc.

What I'm looking for are recommendations of "systems" from folks
who've used them.

What would the folks who've had experience get (now that they are
experienced) in a similar situation. I haven't used any sort of spray
system but am willing to invest in a decent system. I have come to
learn that cheap is often not worth the future hassles.

Wouldn't mind if it could later be used for paint as well, but that's
secondary.

Another question that arises is, how hard is it to get the spraying
technique down?

Last but not least, how 'bout some resources where I can read up on
how to use this thing

Thanx
Renata

Renata wrote:

I would like to get a spray system for poly to save a lotta hassle
when finishing my (future) kitchen cabinets. Probably would steer
away from Harbor Freight. I remeber Apollo and Fuji as two brands
that folks liked.

Using a foam brsuh to put 3 coats on each cabinet..., well, let's just
say been there, done that, don't want to repeat.

Having done a little research, via googling the rec posts mainly, I
couldn't find the thread I sorta remembered that had some pretty good
dialogue on this subject.

What I found was HVLP is good. HVLP is bad for poly. Etc.

What I'm looking for are recommendations of "systems" from folks
who've used them.

What would the folks who've had experience get (now that they are
experienced) in a similar situation. I haven't used any sort of spray
system but am willing to invest in a decent system. I have come to
learn that cheap is often not worth the future hassles.

Wouldn't mind if it could later be used for paint as well, but that's
secondary.

Another question that arises is, how hard is it to get the spraying
technique down?

Last but not least, how 'bout some resources where I can read up on
how to use this thing

Thanx
Renata
Hmm...I found the Apollo a most uncomfortable gun to hold, so I went
with Accuspray. I've never regretted my decision, but it is pricey.
I've sprayed poly, so I don't know why you are stating that HVLP for
poly is "bad". I don't really like using poly, so I avoid it where
possible.

Practicing with tip sizes, thinning ratios, cap sizes, pressure setting,
distance from tip to surface, speed and overlap should allow you to
successfully spray just about any material out there. Two more
variables: fluid and fan adjustment, on the gun. I've sprayed stains,
poly, lacquer, water borne poly, even latex (you need a powerful HVLP to
do that correctly). The one product that I didn't prefer spraying was
shellac; I wipe it on instead of spraying. Probably I didn't thin it
enough for spraying, but since I'm content with wiping it, I haven't
don't additional research.

You can read about using an HVLP until the cows come home, but
ultimately you need to just get out there and PRACTICE. Don't practice
on your projects!

Dave

"Renata" wrote in message
...
I would like to get a spray system for poly to save a lotta hassle
when finishing my (future) kitchen cabinets. Probably would steer
away from Harbor Freight. I remeber Apollo and Fuji as two brands
that folks liked.

Using a foam brsuh to put 3 coats on each cabinet..., well, let's just
say been there, done that, don't want to repeat.

Having done a little research, via googling the rec posts mainly, I
couldn't find the thread I sorta remembered that had some pretty good
dialogue on this subject.

What I found was HVLP is good. HVLP is bad for poly. Etc.

What I'm looking for are recommendations of "systems" from folks
who've used them.

What would the folks who've had experience get (now that they are
experienced) in a similar situation. I haven't used any sort of spray
system but am willing to invest in a decent system. I have come to
learn that cheap is often not worth the future hassles.

Wouldn't mind if it could later be used for paint as well, but that's
secondary.

Another question that arises is, how hard is it to get the spraying
technique down?

Last but not least, how 'bout some resources where I can read up on
how to use this thing

Thanx
Renata

Surprisingly, I was able to obtain excellent results spraying water-based
poly on my kitchen cabinets using a $79.00 "HVLP" system I bought at
Rockler. Cheap plastic gun and it sounds like an Electrolux - but after some
practice the finish is quite nice.

I got this one at Harbor and it has worked well for me.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43430

As for longevity, I have sprayed more poly-u over the past two years since
moving and it has worked well. I have done way better with it than I
thought I ever would. Off the top of my head I have done...

Oak Entertainment Center (BIG ONE !)
Pine Columns x 3
African Produk Home Theater Finish Carpentry (columns, etc.)
Several small pieces like plant stands (Oak)
Oak Kitchen table

The only warning I have to folks buying this gun, watch what you use to
clean it ! The plastic cup didn't take Mineral Spirits too well over the
long haul.

CJ

"Renata" wrote in message
...
I would like to get a spray system for poly to save a lotta hassle
when finishing my (future) kitchen cabinets. Probably would steer
away from Harbor Freight. I remeber Apollo and Fuji as two brands
that folks liked.

Using a foam brsuh to put 3 coats on each cabinet..., well, let's just
say been there, done that, don't want to repeat.

Having done a little research, via googling the rec posts mainly, I
couldn't find the thread I sorta remembered that had some pretty good
dialogue on this subject.

What I found was HVLP is good. HVLP is bad for poly. Etc.

What I'm looking for are recommendations of "systems" from folks
who've used them.

What would the folks who've had experience get (now that they are
experienced) in a similar situation. I haven't used any sort of spray
system but am willing to invest in a decent system. I have come to
learn that cheap is often not worth the future hassles.

Wouldn't mind if it could later be used for paint as well, but that's
secondary.

Another question that arises is, how hard is it to get the spraying
technique down?

Last but not least, how 'bout some resources where I can read up on
how to use this thing

Thanx
Renata

I've been really happy with my Turbinaire HVLP system. Good system with good
accessories and gun.
I've never had problems spraying poly, just thin with spirits, check your
viscosity so you have the right tips on the gun and go.
But have discovered I really prefer shooting water based finishes to keep
the fumes down. McFeely's sells a water based lacquer called Crystal Lac
that I really love. Extremely easy to work with. You can get a lot of coats
on in a pretty short time and the finish is excellent.

My 2 cents

Gary in KC


"Renata" wrote in message
...
I would like to get a spray system for poly to save a lotta hassle
when finishing my (future) kitchen cabinets. Probably would steer
away from Harbor Freight. I remeber Apollo and Fuji as two brands
that folks liked.

Using a foam brsuh to put 3 coats on each cabinet..., well, let's just
say been there, done that, don't want to repeat.

Having done a little research, via googling the rec posts mainly, I
couldn't find the thread I sorta remembered that had some pretty good
dialogue on this subject.

What I found was HVLP is good. HVLP is bad for poly. Etc.

What I'm looking for are recommendations of "systems" from folks
who've used them.

What would the folks who've had experience get (now that they are
experienced) in a similar situation. I haven't used any sort of spray
system but am willing to invest in a decent system. I have come to
learn that cheap is often not worth the future hassles.

Wouldn't mind if it could later be used for paint as well, but that's
secondary.

Another question that arises is, how hard is it to get the spraying
technique down?

Last but not least, how 'bout some resources where I can read up on
how to use this thing

Thanx
Renata

Actually.....unles you have an air supplied respirator you don't want to
spray poly, unless maybe is a water born product, or if you have a quality
spray booth. If you are considering an oil based poly you run the risk of
exposure to isocynates. If you do spray use a head sock, long sleeve shirt
and change clothes immediately between each coat and after you finish. A
respirator is a must when using poly and make sure the cartridges are brand
new.



"Renata" wrote in message
...
I would like to get a spray system for poly to save a lotta hassle

Rumpty wrote:

Actually.....unles you have an air supplied respirator you don't want to
spray poly, unless maybe is a water born product, or if you have a quality
spray booth. If you are considering an oil based poly you run the risk of
exposure to isocynates. If you do spray use a head sock, long sleeve shirt
and change clothes immediately between each coat and after you finish. A
respirator is a must when using poly and make sure the cartridges are brand
new.



"Renata" wrote in message
...

I would like to get a spray system for poly to save a lotta hassle



I can't find anything to indicate that polyurethanes contain ISOCYANATE.
Please provide ONE reference.

Dave

On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 10:51:25 -0400, Renata
wrote:

I would like to get a spray system for poly to save a lotta hassle
when finishing my (future) kitchen cabinets. Probably would steer
away from Harbor Freight. I remeber Apollo and Fuji as two brands
that folks liked.

Using a foam brsuh to put 3 coats on each cabinet..., well, let's just
say been there, done that, don't want to repeat.

Having done a little research, via googling the rec posts mainly, I
couldn't find the thread I sorta remembered that had some pretty good
dialogue on this subject.

What I found was HVLP is good. HVLP is bad for poly. Etc.

What I'm looking for are recommendations of "systems" from folks
who've used them.

What would the folks who've had experience get (now that they are
experienced) in a similar situation. I haven't used any sort of spray
system but am willing to invest in a decent system. I have come to
learn that cheap is often not worth the future hassles.

Wouldn't mind if it could later be used for paint as well, but that's
secondary.

Another question that arises is, how hard is it to get the spraying
technique down?

Last but not least, how 'bout some resources where I can read up on
how to use this thing

Thanx
Renata


Renata-
if you have a 2hp or greater compressor this harbor freight gun:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43430
is not bad at all. it won't last forever, but it sprays fine. and the
price is right.

On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 16:10:53 GMT, "CJ" wrote:

I got this one at Harbor and it has worked well for me.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43430

As for longevity, I have sprayed more poly-u over the past two years since
moving and it has worked well. I have done way better with it than I
thought I ever would. Off the top of my head I have done...

Oak Entertainment Center (BIG ONE !)
Pine Columns x 3
African Produk Home Theater Finish Carpentry (columns, etc.)
Several small pieces like plant stands (Oak)
Oak Kitchen table

The only warning I have to folks buying this gun, watch what you use to
clean it ! The plastic cup didn't take Mineral Spirits too well over the
long haul.

I eventually broke the plastic cup. HF sells a metal replacement,
which I used until I converted it over to remote pot.

remote pot is the way to go for spraying cabinets. being able to spray
with the gun upside down is very convenient for getting the insides.

In article ,
Renata wrote:

Last but not least, how 'bout some resources where I can read up on
how to use this thing

That would be like a correspondence course in boxing. Practise is all
that matters.
A well-practised sprayer with a mediocre gun will get far better results
than a novice with a $3000.00 Fabialucci* gun.

I have sprayed one gawdawful amount of doors, panels, crown, kicks,
cabinets etc. in my life and, at the risk of sounding cocky, I'm ALMOST
all done making mistakes. G
I recently bought a Husky (Home Depot) HVLP for just over CAN$ 130.00.
That gun should be under US$ 100.00.

I sprayed an 8-foot cherry headboard with MinWax Polycrylic with
excellent results with the Husky. In my previous life, after literally
thousands of litres of catalysed lacquers through a serious DeVilbiss
Pro pot-fed system, I was pleasantly surprised. (Maybe The MinWax people
don't talk about spraying Polycrylic because of legal issues with the
Fresh Air Police.... it sprays just fine, right out of the can. Just
don't shake the ca,,,,we don't want to spray bubbles.

Without the air being connected, open the fluid metering adjustment by
pulling the trigger, till you get a small stream of liquid flowing from
the nozzle. You get that when the needle pulls back away into the nozzle
opening it up for fluids to pass.
THE nicest feature from a gravity fed gun.
Now the job of the air, is to do two things. Blow the stream apart
(atomize) into a mist, and transport that mist onto the work
-piece.

Start off with about 40 PSIg at the gun.
Add the air so that you get a vertical stripe of paint (called 'the
fan') about 6"- 8" in height when you hold your gun about 12" away from
the target.

Make sure you don't vary that distance as you move that 'stripe' from
side to side covering the area you painting. Initially, you may want to
spray just water just to see what happens when you twist what knob which
way.

The tricky part is moving the fan over the work in an even speed and
even distance then with just enough overlap between sweeps not too wet
in the middle of the previous pass and not too dry so that 'banding'
shows up.
Overlap is the practice part. And keep that gun pointed perpendicularly
to the work and don't move it away from the work just because you're
running out of arm. Do NOT follow an arc.


You CANNOT use water base in just any gun. The needle and parts have to
be stainless steel. I still like shooting some alcohol through the gun
after my soapy warm-water cleanup, followed at the end with some soft
mineral spirits, such as Varsol.... just enough to coat the parts.
Use 3 coats. Re-coat when the previous coat is just dry (1-2 hours). If
you plan on sanding between coats (sometimes nice to get rid of dirt or
suicide bugs) wait 24 hours.











*Don't bother DAGSing Fabialucci, as I made up the name illustrating a
generic top-of-the-line device.

I too have a Turbinaire and it works well. I think the 4 stage Fuji might have
a slightly better gun. There are many good systems out there. I have sprayed
poly both oil and WB with good results. I think the only material a good HVLP
might have some trouble with is latex.
If you can find a spray course in your area I strongly suggest you take it.
You will save days of learning and practicing on your own. Cheers, JG


Gary A in KC wrote:

I've been really happy with my Turbinaire HVLP system. Good system with good
accessories and gun.
I've never had problems spraying poly, just thin with spirits, check your
viscosity so you have the right tips on the gun and go.
But have discovered I really prefer shooting water based finishes to keep
the fumes down. McFeely's sells a water based lacquer called Crystal Lac
that I really love. Extremely easy to work with. You can get a lot of coats
on in a pretty short time and the finish is excellent.

My 2 cents

Gary in KC

"Renata" wrote in message
...
I would like to get a spray system for poly to save a lotta hassle
when finishing my (future) kitchen cabinets. Probably would steer
away from Harbor Freight. I remeber Apollo and Fuji as two brands
that folks liked.

Using a foam brsuh to put 3 coats on each cabinet..., well, let's just
say been there, done that, don't want to repeat.

Having done a little research, via googling the rec posts mainly, I
couldn't find the thread I sorta remembered that had some pretty good
dialogue on this subject.

What I found was HVLP is good. HVLP is bad for poly. Etc.

What I'm looking for are recommendations of "systems" from folks
who've used them.

What would the folks who've had experience get (now that they are
experienced) in a similar situation. I haven't used any sort of spray
system but am willing to invest in a decent system. I have come to
learn that cheap is often not worth the future hassles.

Wouldn't mind if it could later be used for paint as well, but that's
secondary.

Another question that arises is, how hard is it to get the spraying
technique down?

Last but not least, how 'bout some resources where I can read up on
how to use this thing

Thanx
Renata

"JGS" wrote in message
...

I too have a Turbinaire and it works well. I think the 4 stage Fuji might
have
a slightly better gun. There are many good systems out there. I have
sprayed
poly both oil and WB with good results. I think the only material a good
HVLP
might have some trouble with is latex.

Understandable. Everyone knows latex is not meant to be sprayed, but is a
finish intended to be hand applied to woods like cherry, walnut,...

If you can find a spray course in your area I strongly suggest you take
it.
You will save days of learning and practicing on your own. Cheers, JG


If you can't find a course (that could be a hard thing to find in a given
area), stop by a local auto body shop. Chat with the owner who is also the
guy that does all the work if the shop is small enough, and ask him to show
you painting techniques. Most would be happy to do so and you won't find a
better teacher for how to properly shoot paints than an autobody guy.

--

-Mike-

Jeff Jewitt, www.homesteadfinishing.com, has a special on Astuo HVLP
setups and several good forums and sells products to boot. I grew up
with oil based products but have now switched to waterbased only. He
has a teaching schedule posted of his site that may fit your need.


Mike Marlow wrote:
"JGS" wrote in message
...

I too have a Turbinaire and it works well. I think the 4 stage Fuji might
have
a slightly better gun. There are many good systems out there. I have
sprayed
poly both oil and WB with good results. I think the only material a good
HVLP
might have some trouble with is latex.

Understandable. Everyone knows latex is not meant to be sprayed, but is a
finish intended to be hand applied to woods like cherry, walnut,...

If you can find a spray course in your area I strongly suggest you take
it.
You will save days of learning and practicing on your own. Cheers, JG


If you can't find a course (that could be a hard thing to find in a given
area), stop by a local auto body shop. Chat with the owner who is also the
guy that does all the work if the shop is small enough, and ask him to show
you painting techniques. Most would be happy to do so and you won't find a
better teacher for how to properly shoot paints than an autobody guy.

--

-Mike-

Isocyanate appears to be the catalyst behind oil based polyurethane cross
linking and curing.

"All polyurethane coating systems are produced by the
isocyanate-polyaddition process in which isocyanates and suitable
co-reactants are combined to produce polymers containing urethane groups."
Source:
http://www.pcimag.com/CDA/ArticleInf...,71242,00.html

If you do a google on Isocyanate you'll find a ton of information on this.

While I don't have any personal experience or problems from having sprayed
poly (which I haven't done a lot of - I'm just an amateur woodworker), there
appears to be a pretty good amount of stuff out on the internet indicating
many people have a lot of serious reactions on exposure to isocyanate.

I for one, don't need to find this out personally! I've gone water based
just because I'm spraying in my basement shop and fumes are always a killer
in the house, but this kind of clinches it for me.

My 2 cents

Gary in KC


"David" wrote in message
...

I can't find anything to indicate that polyurethanes contain ISOCYANATE.
Please provide ONE reference.

Dave

Gary A in KC wrote:

Isocyanate appears to be the catalyst behind oil based polyurethane cross
linking and curing.

"All polyurethane coating systems are produced by the
isocyanate-polyaddition process in which isocyanates and suitable
co-reactants are combined to produce polymers containing urethane groups."
Source:
http://www.pcimag.com/CDA/ArticleInf...,71242,00.html

If you do a google on Isocyanate you'll find a ton of information on this.

While I don't have any personal experience or problems from having sprayed
poly (which I haven't done a lot of - I'm just an amateur woodworker), there
appears to be a pretty good amount of stuff out on the internet indicating
many people have a lot of serious reactions on exposure to isocyanate.

I for one, don't need to find this out personally! I've gone water based
just because I'm spraying in my basement shop and fumes are always a killer
in the house, but this kind of clinches it for me.

My 2 cents

Gary in KC


"David" wrote in message
...


I can't find anything to indicate that polyurethanes contain ISOCYANATE.
Please provide ONE reference.

Dave



If that article was true, how come I can't find any mention of
isocyanates in the MSDS of a popular poly?

Dave

On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 11:40:42 -0400, "gw" wrote:


Surprisingly, I was able to obtain excellent results spraying water-based
poly on my kitchen cabinets using a $79.00 "HVLP" system I bought at
Rockler. Cheap plastic gun and it sounds like an Electrolux - but after some
practice the finish is quite nice.

I bought the same unit and tried Minwax water-based poly and had mixed
results. Even though I locked into a 4:1 mix of poly/water, I wound
up with puddling on some pieces. Everything was done flat
(stained/fished before assembly). The Rockler unit is cheap and
generally effective, but it would be nice if they had some variables
in the nozzles, a better manual, and better instructions or a marked
dial on the gun.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 11:40:42 -0400, "gw" wrote:


Surprisingly, I was able to obtain excellent results spraying water-based
poly on my kitchen cabinets using a $79.00 "HVLP" system I bought at
Rockler. Cheap plastic gun and it sounds like an Electrolux - but after
some
practice the finish is quite nice.

I bought the same unit and tried Minwax water-based poly and had mixed
results. Even though I locked into a 4:1 mix of poly/water, I wound
up with puddling on some pieces. Everything was done flat
(stained/fished before assembly). The Rockler unit is cheap and
generally effective, but it would be nice if they had some variables
in the nozzles, a better manual, and better instructions or a marked
dial on the gun.

I didn't thin the poly at all. A little trial and error with the dial got me
good results.

Thanx for all the advice. It's kinda gotten moved on a side burner
for just a brief time since a couple of things have come up that are
more "urgent". But, I've now got some stuff to muse on.

Just to mention, I don't use poly a lot myself any more, but for
kitchen cabinets I do think it's appropriate (though that Crystal Lac
stuff sounds interesting).

The accuspray unit is where I'm leaning - mainly because the cleanup
is quick.

Thanx again.

Renata

On Tue, 25 Oct 2005 08:37:58 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm,
Renata quickly quoth:

Thanx for all the advice. It's kinda gotten moved on a side burner
for just a brief time since a couple of things have come up that are
more "urgent". But, I've now got some stuff to muse on.

Just to mention, I don't use poly a lot myself any more, but for
kitchen cabinets I do think it's appropriate (though that Crystal Lac
stuff sounds interesting).

It's pure overkill, Natty. Try the Crystal Lac or rub on Waterlox.


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