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  #1   Report Post  
Adam
 
Posts: n/a
Default so a dummy buys a ras...

I just bought a used but in beautiful shape old craftsman radial arm saw
and here's what I've learned so far,
It's heavy, I won't ever be moving it alone again.
It starts with a key.
It purrs like a kitten.

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they want
to share?

I believe the saw is from around 1959, it came with some accessories, most
original and new in the box. If anyone's intersted I can post some pictures
in abpw.

Thanks for taking the time to read this,
Adam
  #2   Report Post  
Robatoy
 
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In article ,
Adam wrote:

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached.


RAS's are a nasty piece of gear. A blade with sharp teeth at 3500 RPM is
not only dangerous as is..but now we're hanging that on a little
carriage?!?!?!
It's no secret that I thoroughly dislike the beasts.

Be careful, Adam.... concentrate, focus and you'll be fine.
  #3   Report Post  
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
 
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Robatoy wrote:
RAS's are a nasty piece of gear. A blade with sharp teeth at 3500 RPM is
not only dangerous as is..but now we're hanging that on a little
carriage?!?!?!
It's no secret that I thoroughly dislike the beasts.



I don't understand what the big deal is with RAS. My first big tool was a RAS
(which in hindsight was a mistake). The only operation I didn't think was safe
was ripping. Everything else was fine with normal care being taken.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE


  #4   Report Post  
Darrell Dorsey
 
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This is supposedly some good info on RAS's. I dont have one but hope to get
my dad's old saw some day.

http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes...ageID=&CatID=3

Darrell

"Adam" wrote in message
. 6...
I just bought a used but in beautiful shape old craftsman radial arm saw
and here's what I've learned so far,
It's heavy, I won't ever be moving it alone again.
It starts with a key.
It purrs like a kitten.

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they
want
to share?

I believe the saw is from around 1959, it came with some accessories, most
original and new in the box. If anyone's intersted I can post some
pictures
in abpw.

Thanks for taking the time to read this,
Adam



  #5   Report Post  
Doug Miller
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article , Robatoy wrote:
In article ,
Adam wrote:

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached.


RAS's are a nasty piece of gear. A blade with sharp teeth at 3500 RPM is
not only dangerous as is..but now we're hanging that on a little
carriage?!?!?!


I'm always mystified at the prejudice displayed toward RASs by those who have
never owned and rarely used one.

Radial arm saws are WAAAAAY safer than table saws. When operating the RAS, one
hand is *always* on the handle of the saw and it is therefore impossible to
amputate that hand or any of its digits - and to keep the other hand safe, all
you have to do it put it someplace that isn't in the path of the blade, and
keep it there.

Kickback is a rare event, and if it occurs, the workpiece is thrown *away*
from the operator, not *toward* him as with a TS.

Crosscutting long boards on a table saw is insane by comparison with doing the
same on a radial arm saw.

Ripping looks scary... but think about it - there's less blade exposed during
rip operations on a RAS than on a TS (assuming you haven't done something
stupid like removing the guard).

I know I'm coming perilously close to violating the Usenet Prime Directive by
attempting to inject a dose of reality into a discussion, but, please, let's
at least attempt to be a little bit objective here.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?


  #6   Report Post  
CW
 
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I agree with you.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..

Radial arm saws are WAAAAAY safer than table saws. When operating the RAS,

one
hand is *always* on the handle of the saw and it is therefore impossible

to
amputate that hand or any of its digits - and to keep the other hand safe,

all
you have to do it put it someplace that isn't in the path of the blade,

and
keep it there.

Kickback is a rare event, and if it occurs, the workpiece is thrown *away*
from the operator, not *toward* him as with a TS.

Crosscutting long boards on a table saw is insane by comparison with doing

the
same on a radial arm saw.

Ripping looks scary... but think about it - there's less blade exposed

during
rip operations on a RAS than on a TS (assuming you haven't done something
stupid like removing the guard).

I know I'm coming perilously close to violating the Usenet Prime Directive

by
attempting to inject a dose of reality into a discussion, but, please,

let's
at least attempt to be a little bit objective here.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?



  #8   Report Post  
David
 
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So crosscut very long boards on a CMS. Using the right tool for the job
is part of "safety first". If I can maintain control of a board on my
TS sled, I'll cross cut on the TS for critical cuts. I don't get
perfectly straight cuts on my CMS, because it isn't a slider. if I had
a slider, the movement of the blade would insure a straight cut. Plus
the quality of cut is better on my TS w/ WWII or the double sided
melamine blade.

I spoke with a neighbor about his dust-gathering RAS. He confirmed for
me that it won't stay adjusted. One of the bugaboos that afflict all
but the very best models according to many reports. Since I don't (and
won't) own one, I have no personal experience with one. I'd like to
keep it that way.

Did Rumpty pay you for the RAS plug? (VBG)


Dave

Doug Miller wrote:


Crosscutting long boards on a table saw is insane by comparison with doing the
same on a radial arm saw.

  #9   Report Post  
Clint
 
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Default

So a friend of mine offered me a RAS, as he's got two sitting in his garage
(in pieces). I've got a tablesaw, a miter saw, but I'm thinking this saw
could still be a useful addition to my arsenal. Or am I dreaming? I was
thinking it would be as useful as having a crosscut sled set up, and useful
for cutting dado's and rabbets. Probably keep it at 90 degrees almost all
the time.

Clint

"Adam" wrote in message
. 6...
I just bought a used but in beautiful shape old craftsman radial arm saw
and here's what I've learned so far,
It's heavy, I won't ever be moving it alone again.
It starts with a key.
It purrs like a kitten.

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they
want
to share?

I believe the saw is from around 1959, it came with some accessories, most
original and new in the box. If anyone's intersted I can post some
pictures
in abpw.

Thanks for taking the time to read this,
Adam



  #10   Report Post  
LRod
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 00:26:21 GMT, Adam
wrote:

I just bought a used but in beautiful shape old craftsman radial arm saw
and here's what I've learned so far,
It's heavy, I won't ever be moving it alone again.
It starts with a key.
It purrs like a kitten.

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they want
to share?

I believe the saw is from around 1959, it came with some accessories, most
original and new in the box. If anyone's intersted I can post some pictures
in abpw.


Don't listen to chicken littles about the RAS. It's as safe as any
other powered, toothed implement in your shop. Operator stupidity,
now; that's another matter.

However, get the book by Wally Kunkel ("Mr. Sawdust") at
http://www.mrsawdust.com. It's focus is on Dewalt RAS' and their
structure, but much of the material is useful to any RAS owner.
$29.95, but worth it. You'll certainly get something out of it.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997


  #12   Report Post  
Log
 
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I have had mine for about 6 years and I realy like it. However I don't use
it on a daily basis it comes in very handy.
"Clint" wrote in message
news:Ugsre.54264$HI.23677@edtnps84...
So a friend of mine offered me a RAS, as he's got two sitting in his

garage
(in pieces). I've got a tablesaw, a miter saw, but I'm thinking this saw
could still be a useful addition to my arsenal. Or am I dreaming? I was
thinking it would be as useful as having a crosscut sled set up, and

useful
for cutting dado's and rabbets. Probably keep it at 90 degrees almost all
the time.

Clint

"Adam" wrote in message
. 6...
I just bought a used but in beautiful shape old craftsman radial arm saw
and here's what I've learned so far,
It's heavy, I won't ever be moving it alone again.
It starts with a key.
It purrs like a kitten.

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in

regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any

good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they
want
to share?

I believe the saw is from around 1959, it came with some accessories,

most
original and new in the box. If anyone's intersted I can post some
pictures
in abpw.

Thanks for taking the time to read this,
Adam





  #13   Report Post  
James \Cubby\ Culbertson
 
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Default

I've got a RAS and find it to be very useful, and safe. I don't rip on it
only because I'm used to using my table saw for that. It allows me to cut
miters in an easier fashion than fidling with the miter gauge on the table
saw though. It's invaluable for cutting down stock to length when the
boards are long.
As for keeping it in adjustment, well I have a craftsman from around 1984
maybe and I set it up myself then. Today, not a single adjustment has
needed to be made and it still cuts dead on. Clean it up, plug it in, and
give a go!
Cheers,
cc

"Adam" wrote in message
. 6...
I just bought a used but in beautiful shape old craftsman radial arm saw
and here's what I've learned so far,
It's heavy, I won't ever be moving it alone again.
It starts with a key.
It purrs like a kitten.

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they
want
to share?

I believe the saw is from around 1959, it came with some accessories, most
original and new in the box. If anyone's intersted I can post some
pictures
in abpw.

Thanks for taking the time to read this,
Adam



  #14   Report Post  
Ivan Vegvary
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I have and use a RAS. My only discomfort is that work other than cutting,
e.g., molding, rabitting etc., if the work shifts it will shift into the
cutter and get gouged. Doing the same operation on a Table Saw, if the work
shifts, you cut less than you had intended and can take a second pass.
Otherwise, I like and use RAS.

Ivan Vegvary
"Adam" wrote in message
. 6...
I just bought a used but in beautiful shape old craftsman radial arm saw
and here's what I've learned so far,
It's heavy, I won't ever be moving it alone again.
It starts with a key.
It purrs like a kitten.

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they
want
to share?

I believe the saw is from around 1959, it came with some accessories, most
original and new in the box. If anyone's intersted I can post some
pictures
in abpw.

Thanks for taking the time to read this,
Adam



  #15   Report Post  
Prometheus
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 00:26:21 GMT, Adam
wrote:

I just bought a used but in beautiful shape old craftsman radial arm saw
and here's what I've learned so far,
It's heavy, I won't ever be moving it alone again.
It starts with a key.
It purrs like a kitten.

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they want
to share?


Keep your thumb outta the way, and you should be fine.

I believe the saw is from around 1959, it came with some accessories, most
original and new in the box. If anyone's intersted I can post some pictures
in abpw.

Thanks for taking the time to read this,
Adam




  #16   Report Post  
George
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 00:26:21 GMT, Adam
wrote:
Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in

regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any

good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they

want
to share?


Keep your thumb outta the way, and you should be fine.


That's the one. Too many stupid people put their hand where the blade's
going.

Mine's been with me thirty years - Montgomery Ward - and I didn't get it
new. You check the sets prior to cutting, just as you do your table saw,
and it shouldn't be a problem. Every RAS is capable of holding a setting,
the rub is how long.

If God had meant for us to rip on a RAS, he'd never have given us the
tablesaw.


  #17   Report Post  
Wilson
 
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Been using mine painlessly for 30+ years!
With a long table, it rips far more easily than a TS, except for very small
stuff.
I usually stop the cut when I get near the end and go around to the outfeed
side to pull the final bit through. When I can, I get a wife or kid to do
the final pull. I've done lots of 8-20 ft rips in rough 2X lumber with no
problem.
When I was building my house, the saw was far from the power source, so I
put it on 240V and fed it with 12ga Romex to prevent sag. Worked fine. If
you have serious heavy ripping to do, get a 20-24 tooth blade.
That said, I DO NOT like the molding head rig, although I have used it with
success.
Wilson
"George" wrote in message
...

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 00:26:21 GMT, Adam
wrote:
Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in

regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any

good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they

want
to share?


Keep your thumb outta the way, and you should be fine.


That's the one. Too many stupid people put their hand where the blade's
going.

Mine's been with me thirty years - Montgomery Ward - and I didn't get it
new. You check the sets prior to cutting, just as you do your table saw,
and it shouldn't be a problem. Every RAS is capable of holding a setting,
the rub is how long.

If God had meant for us to rip on a RAS, he'd never have given us the
tablesaw.




  #19   Report Post  
Robatoy
 
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Default

In article ,
"George" wrote:

Keep your thumb outta the way, and you should be fine.


That's the one. Too many stupid people put their hand where the blade's
going.







yup

I rest my case.
  #22   Report Post  
Dave Hall
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 00:26:21 GMT, Adam
wrote:

I just bought a used but in beautiful shape old craftsman radial arm saw
and here's what I've learned so far,
It's heavy, I won't ever be moving it alone again.
It starts with a key.
It purrs like a kitten.

Now I just need to learn everything else about it, particularly in regards
to keeping all the parts I was born with attached. Anyone know of any good
books available that cover these saws or have any personal advice they want
to share?

I believe the saw is from around 1959, it came with some accessories, most
original and new in the box. If anyone's intersted I can post some pictures
in abpw.

Thanks for taking the time to read this,
Adam

\
Do a search on DeCristiforo and Radial Arm Saw. I think his RAS book
is something like "The Magic of your Radial Arm Saw" or similar. It is
a pretty good book although like all the other RAS books I have seen
says nothing about the Craftsman model. I think his is written around
a DeWalt RAS. I like DeCristiforo's style but that may be because THE
book on my Shopsmith was written by him.

Dave Hall
  #23   Report Post  
Lee Michaels
 
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"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
(Doug Miller) wrote:

So how does it qualify as "a nasty piece of gear"?


I have never heard of a table saw lurching up somebody's arm before.
I have never head of an arm being cut-off above the wrist on a table saw.

Stupid careless people will always be stupid careless people.
In their hands, a fork is dangerous.

A table saw has a limited amount of blade exposed unlike a RAS

Don't even talk to me about work getting pinched between the table and
the blade.

The guys who crosses-over a left hand to the right of the blade to hold
a small piece and run the blade with their right hand towards their arm.

I have seen these moves in real life.

I have stood there, aghast at the stupidity.....going WTF???

BUT.. in a perfect world, where one safety-conscience operator who is
not careless and not stupid extolls the virtues of a RAS because that
has been HIS experience... that in itself, does not make my concerns
invalid.

In the hands of a stupid, careless moron, the RAS is an extremely
dangerous piece of ****. Period. Much more so than a TS.

Exactly the same argument as 1100cc crotch rockets being sold to 16-year
old kids.... The brakes are excellent, the horn works.... but don't try
to tell me that it is safe. Not when the safety aspect rests entirely on
the shoulders of the operator like in the case of a RAS.

I'm done ****ing now.


All good points.

I grew up around radial arm saws. I have seen them mounted on trailers for
construction work. All houses used to be built with RAS's. I have a healthy
respect for them and all other power tools.

A common expression I heard while growing up was that some people should
never use power tools. This is true. There is a segment of the population
who have this genetic drive to sacrifice parts of their bodies to the power
tool gods. They can't help it. The demonization of the radial arm saw has
nothing to do with this.

These folks just have to act like there are no consequences for their
glaring ineptitude in all matters that are safety related. And they don't
need a radial arm saw either, They can do great bodily harm with a manual
can opener.

I used to work in insurance. I used to read the claims reports involving
power tool "accidents". Some of those stories were just bizzare. Talk
about a death/disability wish. It is almost like these guys just wanna do
themselves in.

A classic scenario that played itself out again and again goes something
like this. Wife buys power tool for hubby for birthday or something. Hubby
sets up tool and fires it up. Hubby, IMMEDIATELY, cuts something off.

And every now and then, when asked to demonstrate for the insurance agent
how they injured themselves, they will DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN!!

I think that we need to develop genetic testing. Find the gene that causes
all these power tool accidents. And then ban everyone who posseses these
genes from ever owning or operating a power tool of any kind. How is that
for a new safety measure?

Lee Michaels





  #24   Report Post  
dadiOH
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Guess who wrote:

Aside from the OP possibly being a troll ...otherwise he should take
up knitting ... How do you compare when ripping? I watched a
neighbour trying to manipulate with one arm on either side of the
blade.


I grant you that it is easier/better to rip on a table saw - should be,
that's what it is meant to do - put ripping on a RAS isn't all that hard
and no more dangerous than on a table saw...one keeps one's hands and
body where they should be (out of the way of danger) in both cases.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico


  #25   Report Post  
George
 
Posts: n/a
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"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
...
I think that we need to develop genetic testing. Find the gene that causes
all these power tool accidents. And then ban everyone who posseses these
genes from ever owning or operating a power tool of any kind. How is that
for a new safety measure?


It's "multiple-cut mesmerization" to me. The ones I've gone on have almost
always been, with the RAS, cutting multiple pieces to length and forgetting
how wide their palm was. With tablesaws, accidents are more frequent, but
usually involve forgetting where their fingers were when ripping multiple
pieces.

My personal worst, to date, was my bandsaw. Turn the saw off, start to
brush dust away. SHEESH! Lucky I can still bend that knuckle.

Now chainsaw accidents, on the other hand - or should I say foot, because
that's been most common, are really grisly....




  #26   Report Post  
Lee Michaels
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"George" wrote

My personal worst, to date, was my bandsaw. Turn the saw off, start to
brush dust away. SHEESH! Lucky I can still bend that knuckle.


I have a good friend who was cutting some stock on a band saw. He is one of
those guys who doesn't have a very developed sense of pain. Which makes him
a super athlete. He doesn't know when to quit. But doesn't help him much
with safety and pwer tools.

He was cutting on a band saw and cut one of his fingers in half, the long
way. It just split the finger wide open, right down the middle. Just like a
hot dog cut in half to grill it.

Wrapped it up, went to the hospital. The surgeon didn't do too much. He said
he didn't have to. It healed up nicely. Big gnarly scar down the center of
the finger. It is a little bigger than the other fingers. A little stiff.
And it acts up when the weather changes.

But it still works. He said he didn't feel it.



  #27   Report Post  
Bob G.
 
Posts: n/a
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On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 03:36:20 GMT, "Clint"
wrote:

So a friend of mine offered me a RAS, as he's got two sitting in his garage
(in pieces). I've got a tablesaw, a miter saw, but I'm thinking this saw
could still be a useful addition to my arsenal. Or am I dreaming? I was
thinking it would be as useful as having a crosscut sled set up, and useful
for cutting dado's and rabbets. Probably keep it at 90 degrees almost all
the time.

Clint

=================
I have owned a RAS for at least 40 years and it has not moved off a 90
degree cut for the last 30 years....I also own a CMS and a couple of
Tablesaws..which are both used...

The RAS is pretty useful for dado's especially if they do not need to
be dead on accurate...89.90 degrees or so... lol...

Sorry but my old Delta Contractors saw is set up with a dead on
adjustabe sled just for doing crosscuts of less then 30 inches in
lenght... the RAS is used ONLY for rough cutting crosscuts...
anything over 30 inches that I need super accurate cross cuts is done
on my Cabinet saw also with a sled....

Actually my CMS is only used ocassionaly and also never for accurate
cuts.... I just prefer the feel of using the RAS over the CMS.... BUT
If I were a young man and just starting out I would go for the CMS to
save space...

Bob G.
  #28   Report Post  
Clint
 
Posts: n/a
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Well, that's probably my biggest issue with getting the RAS; the space
required for it. But I was thinking that the RAS, CMS, and drill press all
have similar "long board" requirements, so maybe they can co-exist on a wall
somewhere.

Clint

"Bob G." wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 03:36:20 GMT, "Clint"
wrote:

So a friend of mine offered me a RAS, as he's got two sitting in his

garage
(in pieces). I've got a tablesaw, a miter saw, but I'm thinking this saw
could still be a useful addition to my arsenal. Or am I dreaming? I was
thinking it would be as useful as having a crosscut sled set up, and

useful
for cutting dado's and rabbets. Probably keep it at 90 degrees almost

all
the time.

Clint

=================
I have owned a RAS for at least 40 years and it has not moved off a 90
degree cut for the last 30 years....I also own a CMS and a couple of
Tablesaws..which are both used...

The RAS is pretty useful for dado's especially if they do not need to
be dead on accurate...89.90 degrees or so... lol...

Sorry but my old Delta Contractors saw is set up with a dead on
adjustabe sled just for doing crosscuts of less then 30 inches in
lenght... the RAS is used ONLY for rough cutting crosscuts...
anything over 30 inches that I need super accurate cross cuts is done
on my Cabinet saw also with a sled....

Actually my CMS is only used ocassionaly and also never for accurate
cuts.... I just prefer the feel of using the RAS over the CMS.... BUT
If I were a young man and just starting out I would go for the CMS to
save space...

Bob G.



  #29   Report Post  
Rumpty
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Such useless dribble! Join us an learn how:

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start


--

Rumpty


  #30   Report Post  
Rumpty
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

(psst......I know it's a repeated post)
--

Rumpty




  #31   Report Post  
 
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I'd like to see pictures!

Tom

  #32   Report Post  
dadiOH
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Robatoy wrote:

In the hands of a stupid, careless moron, the RAS is an extremely
dangerous piece of ****. Period. Much more so than a TS.


You've just never met my wife's step father. He can turn *any* tool -
power or not - into something lethal.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico


  #33   Report Post  
dadiOH
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Lee Michaels wrote:
I think that we need to develop genetic testing. Find the gene that
causes all these power tool accidents. And then ban everyone who
posseses these genes from ever owning or operating a power tool of
any kind. How is that for a new safety measure?


Add removing the ability to procreate and I'm with you.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico


  #34   Report Post  
LRod
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 14:29:00 -0400, "Rumpty"
wrote:

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

(psst......I know it's a repeated post)


I was hoping the second post was going to correct "dribble" to drivel.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
  #35   Report Post  
MrSilly
 
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I built my RAS into an 18 foot workbench. I can rip a 4x8 sheet with
one hand (no I didn't chop the other off!) with the help of a couple of
rollers. It is my primary saw.

Any saw is dangerous if you don't know how to use it.



  #37   Report Post  
Doug Miller
 
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In article , Robatoy wrote:
In article ,
(Doug Miller) wrote:

So how does it qualify as "a nasty piece of gear"?


I have never heard of a table saw lurching up somebody's arm before.
I have never head of an arm being cut-off above the wrist on a table saw.


http://69.64.173.24/Accidents/search.htm
Search criteria: tool involved = tablesaw, accident type = needed medical
attention. Read the third one. I'm sure there are more.

Stupid careless people will always be stupid careless people.


True - but how does that reflect on the safety of their tools?

In their hands, a fork is dangerous.


So is a table saw.

A table saw has a limited amount of blade exposed unlike a RAS


Nonsense. A radial arm saw with proper guards has *less* blade exposed than a
table saw - on mine, unless I lift the guard above the work, the amount of
blade exposed is *zero*.

Don't even talk to me about work getting pinched between the table and
the blade.


When the conditions that cause work to be pinched between table and blade on a
RAS occur on a TS, the result is that the work is thrown back at the operator
at over a hundred miles an hour. I do not consider that to be a point in favor
of the table saw.

The guys who crosses-over a left hand to the right of the blade to hold
a small piece and run the blade with their right hand towards their arm.


Stupid. Very stupid. But not the fault of the tool.

I have seen these moves in real life.

I have stood there, aghast at the stupidity.....going WTF???


I hope that you have done more than just stand there watching, mute. If not,
shame on you.

BUT.. in a perfect world, where one safety-conscience operator who is
not careless and not stupid extolls the virtues of a RAS because that
has been HIS experience... that in itself, does not make my concerns
invalid.


Nonetheless, they *are* invalid. The tool is not, in and of itself, inherently
unsafe. That stupid people get hurt while using one is not an indictment of
the saw but of the dangers of stupidity.

In the hands of a stupid, careless moron, the RAS is an extremely
dangerous piece of ****. Period.


Right - but in the hands of a stupid, careless moron, *any* power tool is
dangerous.

Much more so than a TS.


Wrong.

Exactly the same argument as 1100cc crotch rockets being sold to 16-year
old kids.... The brakes are excellent, the horn works.... but don't try
to tell me that it is safe. Not when the safety aspect rests entirely on
the shoulders of the operator like in the case of a RAS.


SawStop aside, please explain how the safety aspect does *not* rest entirely
on the operator with a table saw. Or with a band saw. Or with any other tool,
for that matter.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
  #38   Report Post  
Rumpty
 
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I was hoping the second post was going to correct "dribble" to drivel.

I looked in my "How To Master The Radial Saw" by Walley Kunkel
http://mrsawdust.com to check for correct spelling but I spilled coffee on
that page and couldn't read it.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"LRod" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 14:29:00 -0400, "Rumpty"
wrote:

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

(psst......I know it's a repeated post)


I was hoping the second post was going to correct "dribble" to drivel.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997



  #40   Report Post  
LRod
 
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On Tue, 14 Jun 2005 20:25:32 -0400, "Rumpty"
wrote:

I was hoping the second post was going to correct "dribble" to drivel.


I looked in my "How To Master The Radial Saw" by Walley Kunkel
http://mrsawdust.com to check for correct spelling but I spilled coffee on
that page and couldn't read it.


You'd have scored a hunnert points if you had said you dribbled coffee
on that page...

Oh, well. Opportunity lost.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
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