hi, in order to place our clothes drying rack over the bath i have two
strips of wood that we place the dryer upon.

to prevent the wood strips soaking up too much water from the dripping
clothes, i intend to put a drying oil on them. i chose walnut oil for its
non-toxic qualities. is there a way that i could dilute the oil to make it
go further since it is quite expensive.

many thanks for any advice. john west

"jw 111" wrote in message
...
hi, in order to place our clothes drying rack over the bath i have two
strips of wood that we place the dryer upon.

to prevent the wood strips soaking up too much water from the dripping
clothes, i intend to put a drying oil on them. i chose walnut oil for its
non-toxic qualities. is there a way that i could dilute the oil to make
it go further since it is quite expensive.

many thanks for any advice. john west
Thinning it will not make it go further, just need more coats. There are
cheaper non-toxic finishes you can use. Poly, BLO, shellac, tung oil, etc.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:3smre.664$EH1.72@trndny03...

"jw 111" wrote in message
...
hi, in order to place our clothes drying rack over the bath i have two
strips of wood that we place the dryer upon.

to prevent the wood strips soaking up too much water from the dripping
clothes, i intend to put a drying oil on them. i chose walnut oil for its
non-toxic qualities. is there a way that i could dilute the oil to make
it go further since it is quite expensive.

many thanks for any advice. john west
Thinning it will not make it go further, just need more coats. There are
cheaper non-toxic finishes you can use. Poly, BLO, shellac, tung oil, etc.

many thanks. im in london u.k. would you kindly tell me what poly and blo
are please. thanks

"jw 111" wrote in message
...



many thanks. im in london u.k. would you kindly tell me what poly and
blo are please. thanks

Poly = polyurethane. Many brands exist.
BLO = boiled linseed oil, one of the oldest wood finishes around. Danish
oil is very similar

Any finish available in the US (and probably the UK) is food safe once
cured.

jw 111 says...

hi, in order to place our clothes drying rack over the bath i have two
strips of wood that we place the dryer upon.

to prevent the wood strips soaking up too much water from the dripping
clothes, i intend to put a drying oil on them. i chose walnut oil for its
non-toxic qualities. is there a way that i could dilute the oil to make it
go further since it is quite expensive.

many thanks for any advice. john west

Oil is practically worthless as a protection against water or water
vapor. If you already bought it, I hope you didn't open it so you can
exchange it for something else. What you want is polyurethane or some
other kind of varnish. It should be comparatively cheap too.

HEH!... I can get a quart of cooking walnut oil for $3.99, at my local
Ralph's supermarket.

The brand is: " It's Delish ", which is distributed by Universal Merchants,
Los Angeles, CA 90036.

Question for anyone else, would there be a difference between what I
have and woodworking / finishing walnut oil?

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Oil is practically worthless as a protection against water or water
vapor. If you already bought it, I hope you didn't open it so you can
exchange it for something else. What you want is polyurethane or some
other kind of varnish. It should be comparatively cheap too.


Waterlox? Isn't that used inside of wooden flower vases for waterproofing?

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:0Kure.414$Ce7.78@fed1read03...

HEH!... I can get a quart of cooking walnut oil for $3.99, at my local
Ralph's supermarket.

The brand is: " It's Delish ", which is distributed by Universal
Merchants,
Los Angeles, CA 90036.

Question for anyone else, would there be a difference between what I
have and woodworking / finishing walnut oil?


Yes, definitely. The stuff in your store uses a "health" halo to justify
its price. Usually boasts of being cold pressed and "natural", whatever
that means. One thing the process does mean is that nut proteins can be
present here, which are not in the solvent extracted oil used commercially.
If you're allergic to nut proteins - potential problem, however slight.

The healthy stuff is better as a finish than the less expensive kind on the
shelf. The one that contains antioxidants to retard spoilage. You _want_
the oil to oxidize and polymerize, remember?

Then there's the commercial product, extracted after the squeeze.

AAvK says...


Waterlox? Isn't that used inside of wooden flower vases for waterproofing?

Waterlox is an oil and varnish blend, not pure oil.