I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I want
it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would
preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How
about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue
them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long pieces
underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness down to
give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be very obvious
and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me know if I'm
missing something!

Dave

Hi Dave,

I think you are right. I remember seeing
Norm do the same thing on the NYW.

Anyhow, since both pieces will expand
the same amount, you should be fine.

Lou

In article , David
wrote:

I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I want
it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would
preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How
about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue
them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long pieces
underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness down to
give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be very obvious
and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me know if I'm
missing something!

Dave

Thanks for the idea, CH, but I'm after "thicker" as opposed to
"cleaner". I supposed I could do crossgrain ends (1-1/4" thick if I
attached them like crossgrain moldings (glue at front miter and screws
in elongated holes at the middle and back) but that gains me what,
exactly? Certainly it's more work, and the look is different, but
better?? Breadboard ends hide the end grain; I'm not concerned with the
end grain showing, I just want the top to look almost 2X as thick as it
really is.

Dave

CrackedHands wrote:

I think it'd be easier and with cleaner look if you use the breadboard
edges. Try google on the "breadboard edge" and you'll see the links to
how it's done.

i did this to the front edge of a cabinet top. it works just fine to make it
look thicker.

http://groups.msn.com/chaniarts/wood...to&PhotoID=375

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

"David" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the idea, CH, but I'm after "thicker" as opposed to "cleaner".
I supposed I could do crossgrain ends (1-1/4" thick if I attached them
like crossgrain moldings (glue at front miter and screws in elongated
holes at the middle and back) but that gains me what, exactly? Certainly
it's more work, and the look is different, but better?? Breadboard ends
hide the end grain; I'm not concerned with the end grain showing, I just
want the top to look almost 2X as thick as it really is.

Dave

CrackedHands wrote:

I think it'd be easier and with cleaner look if you use the breadboard
edges. Try google on the "breadboard edge" and you'll see the links to
how it's done.

Look very nice, Charlie. What wood is the dark stripe?

Dave

Charles Spitzer wrote:

i did this to the front edge of a cabinet top. it works just fine to make it
look thicker.

http://groups.msn.com/chaniarts/wood...to&PhotoID=375

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

"David" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the idea, CH, but I'm after "thicker" as opposed to "cleaner".
I supposed I could do crossgrain ends (1-1/4" thick if I attached them
like crossgrain moldings (glue at front miter and screws in elongated
holes at the middle and back) but that gains me what, exactly? Certainly
it's more work, and the look is different, but better?? Breadboard ends
hide the end grain; I'm not concerned with the end grain showing, I just
want the top to look almost 2X as thick as it really is.

Dave

CrackedHands wrote:


I think it'd be easier and with cleaner look if you use the breadboard
edges. Try google on the "breadboard edge" and you'll see the links to
how it's done.

bloodwood and red oak, finished with nitro lacquer.

"David" wrote in message
...
Look very nice, Charlie. What wood is the dark stripe?

Dave

Charles Spitzer wrote:

i did this to the front edge of a cabinet top. it works just fine to make
it look thicker.

http://groups.msn.com/chaniarts/wood...to&PhotoID=375

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

"David" wrote in message
...

Thanks for the idea, CH, but I'm after "thicker" as opposed to "cleaner".
I supposed I could do crossgrain ends (1-1/4" thick if I attached them
like crossgrain moldings (glue at front miter and screws in elongated
holes at the middle and back) but that gains me what, exactly? Certainly
it's more work, and the look is different, but better?? Breadboard ends
hide the end grain; I'm not concerned with the end grain showing, I just
want the top to look almost 2X as thick as it really is.

Dave

CrackedHands wrote:


I think it'd be easier and with cleaner look if you use the breadboard
edges. Try google on the "breadboard edge" and you'll see the links to
how it's done.

1. The glue line will show quite a bit.
2. To minimize the obvious line you can rip\crosscut and roll the piece
over for a bookmatch effect on the end and side grain.
3. If the top was 3' x 6' that's about $65 worth of 4/4 Red Oak at my
local prices. I'd spend the extra $50 and go with 6/4.
4. It's likely a few hours of extra work to do the lapping by the time
your done with all the extra work it causes. That's worth $50 bucks
right there.
5. There is always the chance of severe problems if things go bad and
regardless you'll have that glue line forever.

SP,
The glue line I'm assuming would be prominent ONLY on the end pieces;
not the front, as the glue line is inline with the grain on the front
edge. Thanks for the suggestion of turning the piece over. I'll check
with my local supplier for prices on thicker oak--that might be the
wisest choice if it's not too big a bump.

Dave

SonomaProducts.com wrote:

1. The glue line will show quite a bit.
2. To minimize the obvious line you can rip\crosscut and roll the piece
over for a bookmatch effect on the end and side grain.
3. If the top was 3' x 6' that's about $65 worth of 4/4 Red Oak at my
local prices. I'd spend the extra $50 and go with 6/4.
4. It's likely a few hours of extra work to do the lapping by the time
your done with all the extra work it causes. That's worth $50 bucks
right there.
5. There is always the chance of severe problems if things go bad and
regardless you'll have that glue line forever.

"David" wrote in message
Breadboard ends hide the end grain; I'm not concerned with the end grain
showing, I just want the top to look almost 2X as thick as it really is.

Dave

Why not make thick breadboard ends?

Will it work? That table that has been sitting in my dining room for 30
years says it will. The outer portion is 2 1/2" thick. Center is about
half that.

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in
:

i did this to the front edge of a cabinet top. it works just fine to
make it look thicker.

That's a nice looking console, Charlie. I assume the doors open to reveal
storage & electronics?

Patriarch

David wrote in :

I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I want
it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would
preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How
about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue
them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long pieces
underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness down to
give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be very obvious
and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me know if I'm
missing something!

Dave

The process should work, theoretically. I mean, it is essentially a
bookmatch technique, and you're going to be showing end grain.

It would be pretty easy to mock something like this up from scrap, to see
how the glue-up and proposed finishes look.

Having done a table top in 6/4 red oak, I can tell you that you'll likely
have better success in keeping the thinner stock flat than the thicker
stuff. No reasonable sized cleat is going to easily control a 6/4 slab
that wants to move.

On the other hand, what Charlie showed, where he emphasized the line with a
contrasting wood, looks pretty sweet, too. Depends on the look you're
after.

Patriarch

David wrote in :

SP,
The glue line I'm assuming would be prominent ONLY on the end pieces;
not the front, as the glue line is inline with the grain on the front
edge. Thanks for the suggestion of turning the piece over. I'll check
with my local supplier for prices on thicker oak--that might be the
wisest choice if it's not too big a bump.

Dave


The price premium per b/f on 6/4 RO is pretty minimal at PALS in Oakland.
They have a San Jose yard too.

www.pals4wood.com

Patriarch

Thanks for the tip on a wood source. I just might run over there tomorrow.


Dave

Patriarch wrote:

David wrote in :


SP,
The glue line I'm assuming would be prominent ONLY on the end pieces;
not the front, as the glue line is inline with the grain on the front
edge. Thanks for the suggestion of turning the piece over. I'll check
with my local supplier for prices on thicker oak--that might be the
wisest choice if it's not too big a bump.

Dave



The price premium per b/f on 6/4 RO is pretty minimal at PALS in Oakland.
They have a San Jose yard too.

www.pals4wood.com

Patriarch

I didn't consider that 6/4 would be more difficult to keep flat over
time. I learn something every day here! If I decided to go with my
original plan, I'll glue up end pieces and then decide it if looks
hokey. I suppose I could go with the dovetailed (or just
tongue/grooved) method of attaching crossgrain molding to the endgrain top.

Dave

Patriarch wrote:

David wrote in :


I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I want
it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would
preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How
about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue
them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long pieces
underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness down to
give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be very obvious
and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me know if I'm
missing something!

Dave


The process should work, theoretically. I mean, it is essentially a
bookmatch technique, and you're going to be showing end grain.

It would be pretty easy to mock something like this up from scrap, to see
how the glue-up and proposed finishes look.

Having done a table top in 6/4 red oak, I can tell you that you'll likely
have better success in keeping the thinner stock flat than the thicker
stuff. No reasonable sized cleat is going to easily control a 6/4 slab
that wants to move.

On the other hand, what Charlie showed, where he emphasized the line with a
contrasting wood, looks pretty sweet, too. Depends on the look you're
after.

Patriarch

David wrote:
I want to make a desktop out of solid wood (glue-up) of 4/4 oak. I
want it to look thicker (1-1/4") but realize that wood movement would
preclude gluing banding around it like I've done around oak ply. How
about if I make the top a few inches longer, cut the ends off and glue
them underneath the top (matching grain direction) and glue long
pieces underneath the long edges? (Yes, I'll plane the thickness
down to give me 1-1/4" total thickness) The glue line shouldn't be
very obvious and wood movement would be a non-issue, right?? Let me
know if I'm missing something!

I've done exactly the same thing, works fine.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Hey, I didn't realize you guys were local. The PALS in Oakland is my
favorite source. Open till 2:00 (I think) on Saturday too. They also
let you hand pick. I don't think the San Jose site has a walkin type
operation.

P.S. The Oaklnad site is not in the best neighborhood. The store has
their own fenced in parking lot so that's cool but you don't want to
get lost in that area or have a breakdown.

BW

Boy am I glad I read your post before venturing out this morning! I was
gonna go down to PALS SJ. I'll call them instead, to find out what they
carry and if there's a showroom. Thanks again.

Dave

SonomaProducts.com wrote:
Hey, I didn't realize you guys were local. The PALS in Oakland is my
favorite source. Open till 2:00 (I think) on Saturday too. They also
let you hand pick. I don't think the San Jose site has a walkin type
operation.

P.S. The Oaklnad site is not in the best neighborhood. The store has
their own fenced in parking lot so that's cool but you don't want to
get lost in that area or have a breakdown.

BW

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
"Charles Spitzer" wrote in
:

i did this to the front edge of a cabinet top. it works just fine to
make it look thicker.

That's a nice looking console, Charlie. I assume the doors open to reveal
storage & electronics?

Patriarch

yep. 3 flipper doors, with slideout shelves for everything so i don't have
to move it to get to the cabling. actually, about 9 months ago i asked about
horizontal flipper door mechanisms, and this was the application and final
result.

http://groups.msn.com/chaniarts/wood...to&PhotoID=374

first time i used bloodwood. it has a very interesting smell that made me
hungry when i was milling it up.

it was also the first time i just started cutting parts without a plan, just
a few measurements for width of doors and depth. the only requirement from
swmbo was to not have glass doors so she didn't have to see the equipment.
my cats like to sleep on the open doors.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in
:

snip
it was also the first time i just started cutting parts without a
plan, just a few measurements for width of doors and depth. the only
requirement from swmbo was to not have glass doors so she didn't have
to see the equipment. my cats like to sleep on the open doors.

The notion of working from a rough sketch and a requirement adds a certain
thrill to the project. Krenov describes something similar (on his plane,
not mine ;-)) in one or two of his books. When you only have a limited
amount of a certain wood, and getting something from another plank would
make it look different, it either succeeds or fails.

Sort of the cabinetmaker's version of working without a net.

Patriarch

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in
oups.com:

Hey, I didn't realize you guys were local. The PALS in Oakland is my
favorite source. Open till 2:00 (I think) on Saturday too. They also
let you hand pick. I don't think the San Jose site has a walkin type
operation.

P.S. The Oaklnad site is not in the best neighborhood. The store has
their own fenced in parking lot so that's cool but you don't want to
get lost in that area or have a breakdown.

BW


I went over there one Saturday morning, when there was a funeral at one of
the neighborhood churches for a gang/driveby shooting victim. To say that
all of the law enforcement resources available were 'on visible patrol'
would be an understatement. And _everyone_ in the neighborhoods was alert,
nervous and watching.

The yard people at PALS Oakland are as helpful and nice a group as you
could ask for, anywhere.

And, by the way, I've never been better served at any Home Depot than at
the one in Emeryville, maybe 8 blocks from there.

Patriarch

If that's the case, I've had plenty of thrills in the shop!

Dave

Patriarch wrote:

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in
:

snip

it was also the first time i just started cutting parts without a
plan, just a few measurements for width of doors and depth. the only
requirement from swmbo was to not have glass doors so she didn't have
to see the equipment. my cats like to sleep on the open doors.


The notion of working from a rough sketch and a requirement adds a certain
thrill to the project. Krenov describes something similar (on his plane,
not mine ;-)) in one or two of his books. When you only have a limited
amount of a certain wood, and getting something from another plank would
make it look different, it either succeeds or fails.

Sort of the cabinetmaker's version of working without a net.

Patriarch