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#1
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router plate thickness
I am going to buy a new router. The Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp production
router to mount in a table. Table is to be homemade. The router is heavy and I don't want any sag, so I've decided to use aluminum plate for the router base. Normally 1/4 in plate is used, but I have some 1/2 inch plate available to me. Aside from the problems of cutting and drilling it (let's assume that I can accomplish that) will the 1/2 inch plate be too thick? I don't have the router yet, so I can't mock it up, but I wanted to start working on the table and the plate. Steve |
#3
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You lose an additional 1/4" of travel (depth of cut), not much to pay
for all that rigidity. How about inserts for various size bits? Will they work with a 1/2" plate? Cutting should be no problem, but I'd get a local metal shop or supplier to cut it on one of their big shears, cleaner cut and some shears leave a slight bevel, say 1/16 wide and 3-6 thou deep, which would be helpful preventing parts from hanging up on the edge of the plate, should it be slightly higher than your table. How thick will the table top be? What material? You're going to need enough "meat" there to hold up the plate and router without sagging. |
#4
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wrote:
I am going to buy a new router. The Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp production router to mount in a table. Table is to be homemade. The router is heavy and I don't want any sag, so I've decided to use aluminum plate for the router base. Normally 1/4 in plate is used, but I have some 1/2 inch plate available to me. Aside from the problems of cutting and drilling it (let's assume that I can accomplish that) will the 1/2 inch plate be too thick? I don't have the router yet, so I can't mock it up, but I wanted to start working on the table and the plate. Another good option: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43053,43885 I have it myself and it is good stuff... JES |
#5
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LP wrote:
I use Bosch routers on 3/8" aluminum plates and I'd not want to lose an additional 1/8" to plate thickness simply because its already difficult enough to get a wrench to the collet nut. Get an offset wrench. I have one for my table mounted DW621 & it saves a lot of hassle. Woodpecker has them. LD |
#6
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On Tue, 31 May 2005 08:53:57 GMT, Lobby Dosser
wrote: LP wrote: I use Bosch routers on 3/8" aluminum plates and I'd not want to lose an additional 1/8" to plate thickness simply because its already difficult enough to get a wrench to the collet nut. Get an offset wrench. I have one for my table mounted DW621 & it saves a lot of hassle. Woodpecker has them. LD Yep this has been on my list of "things I'm procrastinating over" for a couple months now. I'll get a round tuit one of these days . Nice that you mentioned it tho cause others may find it useful. I'd thought to include it in my answer to OP but didnt for some reason |
#7
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"Jan Egil Sjåstad" wrote in message
Another good option: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43053,43885 I have it myself and it is good stuff... Did you also buy the Bit Jack by any chance Jan? I was wondering how well it works? |
#8
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Thanks for all the thoughts. I forgot to consider the inserts. Maybe
I'll have to rethink this idea. The table top was to be MDF or corian (if I feel brave enough to cut it). Steve |
#9
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You'll need access to a good bridgeport milling machine and a
metal-cutting bandsaw to cut and drill that stuff, to the accuracy needed. If you do have access to a milling machine, you could do some pretty cool and inventive stuff, for example facing off the center around the router to 1/4" or 3/8" but keep a rim of full 1/2 inch around the outside edge where the plate rests in the table. You could also mill on the opposite side a recess around the bit opening to accomodate inserts designed for 1/4" plate. Perhaps you should finalize your design and then post on rec.crafts.metalworking for more ideas. |
#10
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"...on one of their big shears..."
No offense, but most industrial shears only work on sheet metal or thin plate up to 1/4" thick. It would probably have to be cut on a metal-cutting bandsaw and then a finishing cut taken on a mill. |
#11
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"woodworker88" wrote in message oups.com... "...on one of their big shears..." No offense, but most industrial shears only work on sheet metal or thin plate up to 1/4" thick. It would probably have to be cut on a metal-cutting bandsaw and then a finishing cut taken on a mill. Cut it with a tablesaw. Greg |
#12
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A sheared edge o 1/2" plate will be ugly. Saw at least, milled would be
better. wrote in message oups.com... You lose an additional 1/4" of travel (depth of cut), not much to pay for all that rigidity. How about inserts for various size bits? Will they work with a 1/2" plate? Cutting should be no problem, but I'd get a local metal shop or supplier to cut it on one of their big shears, cleaner cut and some shears leave a slight bevel, say 1/16 wide and 3-6 thou deep, which would be helpful preventing parts from hanging up on the edge of the plate, should it be slightly higher than your table. How thick will the table top be? What material? You're going to need enough "meat" there to hold up the plate and router without sagging. |
#13
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Upscale wrote:
"Jan Egil Sjåstad" wrote in message Another good option: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43053,43885 I have it myself and it is good stuff... Did you also buy the Bit Jack by any chance Jan? I was wondering how well it works? No I don't have it. Unfortunately i will not fit my router... (Triton). JES |
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