router plate thickness
 

I am going to buy a new router. The Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp production
router to mount in a table. Table is to be homemade. The router is
heavy and I don't want any sag, so I've decided to use aluminum plate
for the router base. Normally 1/4 in plate is used, but I have some 1/2
inch plate available to me. Aside from the problems of cutting and
drilling it (let's assume that I can accomplish that) will the 1/2 inch
plate be too thick? I don't have the router yet, so I can't mock it up,
but I wanted to start working on the table and the plate.

Steve

On 30 May 2005 21:18:50 -0700, wrote:

I am going to buy a new router. The Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp production
router to mount in a table. Table is to be homemade. The router is
heavy and I don't want any sag, so I've decided to use aluminum plate
for the router base. Normally 1/4 in plate is used, but I have some 1/2
inch plate available to me. Aside from the problems of cutting and
drilling it (let's assume that I can accomplish that) will the 1/2 inch
plate be too thick? I don't have the router yet, so I can't mock it up,
but I wanted to start working on the table and the plate.

Steve

your 1/2" plate may or may not be flat, and you're going to run into
problems with fabricating/attaching the center inserts unless you have
a lot of time and access to a milling machine. I use Bosch routers on
3/8" aluminum plates and I'd not want to lose an additional 1/8" to
plate thickness simply because its already difficult enough to get a
wrench to the collet nut.

I'd suggest you bite the bullet and get the 3/8" alum plate from
Woodpeckers. It comes with 3 inserts and you can buy others as you
need them (or in a complete set of 8).
http://www.woodpeck.com/aluminsert.html
They may have one already drilled for your router, or you can get an
undrilled one and do it yourself.


As an alternative you can get one from Woodhaven, albeit more
expensive, and they offer fewer drilled inserts, altho you can get an
undrilled one and make it any size you want it. This plate comes with
2 predrilled inserts and one blank.
http://www.woodhaven.com/SearchResul...CategoryID=182
#147AP or #147APK

You lose an additional 1/4" of travel (depth of cut), not much to pay
for all that rigidity. How about inserts for various size bits? Will
they work with a 1/2" plate?
Cutting should be no problem, but I'd get a local metal shop or
supplier to cut it on one of their big shears, cleaner cut and some
shears leave a slight bevel, say 1/16 wide and 3-6 thou deep, which
would be helpful preventing parts from hanging up on the edge of the
plate, should it be slightly higher than your table.
How thick will the table top be? What material? You're going to need
enough "meat" there to hold up the plate and router without sagging.

wrote:
I am going to buy a new router. The Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp production
router to mount in a table. Table is to be homemade. The router is
heavy and I don't want any sag, so I've decided to use aluminum plate
for the router base. Normally 1/4 in plate is used, but I have some 1/2
inch plate available to me. Aside from the problems of cutting and
drilling it (let's assume that I can accomplish that) will the 1/2 inch
plate be too thick? I don't have the router yet, so I can't mock it up,
but I wanted to start working on the table and the plate.

Another good option:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43053,43885

I have it myself and it is good stuff...


JES

LP wrote:

I use Bosch routers on
3/8" aluminum plates and I'd not want to lose an additional 1/8" to
plate thickness simply because its already difficult enough to get a
wrench to the collet nut.



Get an offset wrench. I have one for my table mounted DW621 & it saves a
lot of hassle. Woodpecker has them.

LD

On Tue, 31 May 2005 08:53:57 GMT, Lobby Dosser
wrote:

LP wrote:

I use Bosch routers on
3/8" aluminum plates and I'd not want to lose an additional 1/8" to
plate thickness simply because its already difficult enough to get a
wrench to the collet nut.



Get an offset wrench. I have one for my table mounted DW621 & it saves a
lot of hassle. Woodpecker has them.

LD

Yep this has been on my list of "things I'm procrastinating over" for
a couple months now. I'll get a round tuit one of these days .

Nice that you mentioned it tho cause others may find it useful. I'd
thought to include it in my answer to OP but didnt for some reason

"Jan Egil Sjåstad" wrote in message
Another good option:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43053,43885

I have it myself and it is good stuff...

Did you also buy the Bit Jack by any chance Jan? I was wondering how well it
works?

Thanks for all the thoughts. I forgot to consider the inserts. Maybe
I'll have to rethink this idea. The table top was to be MDF or corian
(if I feel brave enough to cut it).

Steve

You'll need access to a good bridgeport milling machine and a
metal-cutting bandsaw to cut and drill that stuff, to the accuracy
needed. If you do have access to a milling machine, you could do some
pretty cool and inventive stuff, for example facing off the center
around the router to 1/4" or 3/8" but keep a rim of full 1/2 inch
around the outside edge where the plate rests in the table. You could
also mill on the opposite side a recess around the bit opening to
accomodate inserts designed for 1/4" plate.

Perhaps you should finalize your design and then post on
rec.crafts.metalworking for more ideas.

"...on one of their big shears..."

No offense, but most industrial shears only work on sheet metal or thin
plate up to 1/4" thick. It would probably have to be cut on a
metal-cutting bandsaw and then a finishing cut taken on a mill.

"woodworker88" wrote in message
oups.com...
"...on one of their big shears..."

No offense, but most industrial shears only work on sheet metal or thin
plate up to 1/4" thick. It would probably have to be cut on a
metal-cutting bandsaw and then a finishing cut taken on a mill.


Cut it with a tablesaw.
Greg

A sheared edge o 1/2" plate will be ugly. Saw at least, milled would be
better.
wrote in message
oups.com...
You lose an additional 1/4" of travel (depth of cut), not much to pay
for all that rigidity. How about inserts for various size bits? Will
they work with a 1/2" plate?
Cutting should be no problem, but I'd get a local metal shop or
supplier to cut it on one of their big shears, cleaner cut and some
shears leave a slight bevel, say 1/16 wide and 3-6 thou deep, which
would be helpful preventing parts from hanging up on the edge of the
plate, should it be slightly higher than your table.
How thick will the table top be? What material? You're going to need
enough "meat" there to hold up the plate and router without sagging.

Upscale wrote:
"Jan Egil Sjåstad" wrote in message

Another good option:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43053,43885

I have it myself and it is good stuff...


Did you also buy the Bit Jack by any chance Jan? I was wondering how well it
works?


No I don't have it. Unfortunately i will not fit my router... (Triton).

JES