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#1
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BLO question
Folks -
Is Boiled Linseed Oil food-safe for use on a cutting board? The label doesn't say either way... There is no "ingredient list" other than that it says "Pure Linseed Oil" - no listing of dryers or additives. I haven't used BLO before, so if'n y'all have any tips - I already know that you are supposed to keep the soiled rags tightly wadded up in a confined area, preferably a small box filled with woodshavings to absorb the vapors and undried oils. (Kidding!) John Moorhead |
#2
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I'm pretty sure that it will contain metalic driers which may or may
not be food safe when cured. This link http://www.canadianhomeworkshop.com/...g_finish.shtml says to use walnut, tung or mineral oils for food contact surfaces. |
#3
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For cutting boards you should just use mineral oil but I suspect this
whole thing is a troll. |
#4
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SP -
No troll, I thought it was a fair question... The can makes no mention of it not being food safe, or of having additives such as metallic driers. The label says "Pure Linseed Oil, Boiled" - but have no other info. So, straight up question: is pure linseed oil, boiled or otherwise, safe for food surfaces use? I may not be the most attractive fellow, but I am *not* a troll. I accept your apology in advance. Cheers, John Moorhead "SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message oups.com... For cutting boards you should just use mineral oil but I suspect this whole thing is a troll. |
#5
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I have read that any commercially available finish is safe for food contact.
Of course, we read lots of things... Email the manufacturer and ask them. |
#6
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Pure linseed oil takes forever to dry and would probably end up
flavoring whatever was on it. Boiled linseed oil has metalic driers so probably isn't safe for food contact. To be safe, I would say no but then I'm posting through deja.com so you probably aren't even seeing my response. |
#7
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"John Moorhead" wrote in message . .. SP - No troll, I thought it was a fair question... The can makes no mention of it not being food safe, or of having additives such as metallic driers. The label says "Pure Linseed Oil, Boiled" - but have no other info. You'll not be able to get enough of the cobalt - siccative - out of the embrace of the cross-linked oil to be detected unless you eat the whole board. That said, why bother, when walnut oil cures, giving some protection from water, and doesn't collect trash like the forever uncured mineral oil. Linseed stinks, but it's good for prostate health - in rats, anyway. |
#8
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A few months ago I ask the question about BLO being non-toxic safe for
children's toys. Send E-mail to manufacture of BLO I found in local BORG. Reply was very emphatic; NO, don't use our product on toys. (Sounded like an insurance / lawyer thing to me.) If the maker states not to use for toys, I think "food safe" is right out. Anyway, there are many who claim you must let BLO cure (that is cure, not dry) for a couple of weeks and it becomes OK for toys. However, IMHO, that does not remove the metallic dryers used in BLO manufactured by today's factory process. On the other hand, these metallic dryers are such a low density and are probably bound tightly to the cured BLO finish as to pose no "truly significant" health risk. All bets are off if someone uses BLO finished wood piece as teething toy for toddler. What convinced me was the cheep price of mineral oil purchased in the local drug store when compared to the messing around with BLO, long cure time, and problems with the rags. Phil |
#9
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If you do decide to use BLO, warm it to 130 degrees and it will absorb
quite quickly. I recently finished a box with it and was able to apply it warm, let it stand for 30 minutes, wipe off the excess and then let sit for 24 hrs. Repeat twice more and finish with Butchers. Makes for a nice finish. SteveP. "John Moorhead" wrote in message .. . Folks - Is Boiled Linseed Oil food-safe for use on a cutting board? The label doesn't say either way... There is no "ingredient list" other than that it says "Pure Linseed Oil" - no listing of dryers or additives. I haven't used BLO before, so if'n y'all have any tips - I already know that you are supposed to keep the soiled rags tightly wadded up in a confined area, preferably a small box filled with woodshavings to absorb the vapors and undried oils. (Kidding!) John Moorhead |
#10
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Another Phil wrote:
A few months ago I ask the question about BLO being non-toxic safe for children's toys. Send E-mail to manufacture of BLO I found in local BORG. Reply was very emphatic; NO, don't use our product on toys. (Sounded like an insurance / lawyer thing to me.) If the maker states not to use for toys, I think "food safe" is right out. Unless the manufacturer had explicitly had the product checked for food safety (expert opinion, etc) and cleared with their lawyers, there is no way in hell they are going to recommend it. Now, the comparsion of toys to food safety isn't really fair. Children naw at things, suck on them and possibly swallow. A child could get a *lot* more finish internally then you could ever get from a cutting board unless you have taken to shaving you board and placing the shavings in your food. PK |
#11
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#12
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In article , lgb wrote:
In article , says... If you do decide to use BLO, warm it to 130 degrees and it will absorb quite quickly. I recently finished a box with it and was able to apply it warm, let it stand for 30 minutes, wipe off the excess and then let sit for 24 hrs. Repeat twice more and finish with Butchers. Makes for a nice finish. I thought it was "Once a day for a week, once a week for a year, and once a year forever." The way I heard it was once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for life. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
#13
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Another option is walnut oil. Available at your local market or health
food shop. Just as safe as eating walnuts. Disclaimer: some people get extreme allergic reactions to nuts and nut oils. If you want a premium walnut oil that has been heated to cause it to dry harder and possibly faster, you can get some he http://tinyurl.com/d2enc No additives at all. Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with the above product or it's manufacturer, but I've met him and he seems like a trustworthy guy. I don't receive a cut on any of his sales. |
#14
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I always thought that was for workbenches that you wanted a tougher finish
on. SteveP. "Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , lgb wrote: In article , says... If you do decide to use BLO, warm it to 130 degrees and it will absorb quite quickly. I recently finished a box with it and was able to apply it warm, let it stand for 30 minutes, wipe off the excess and then let sit for 24 hrs. Repeat twice more and finish with Butchers. Makes for a nice finish. I thought it was "Once a day for a week, once a week for a year, and once a year forever." The way I heard it was once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for life. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
#15
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John Moorhead wrote in message
on Monday 25 April 2005 12:54 pm: Folks - Is Boiled Linseed Oil food-safe for use on a cutting board? You got a lot of 'no' answers. The correct answer is 'yes' ... with the condition that it be allowed to completely cure before use. Here are some of the results I found googling with "food safe wood finish' for bait: http://www.waterlox.com/faq.cfm?categoryid=4 Are Waterlox Original finishes food safe/non-toxic? Once Waterlox Original finishes are completely dry (30 days), they are non-toxic. Many customers use Waterlox Original finishes on items such as butcher-block counter tops and cutting boards, salad bowls and bowl turnings, knife handles and eating utensils, children’s toys and furniture, etc. This does not apply to urethane products. http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/standards.htm How safe is it,really? All Tried & True Wood Finishes comply with the inner most circle of product safety established by the FDA: "safe for food contact surfaces" (FDA 21,Sec 175.300). Beeswax and natural varnish resin are FDA approved as non-toxic and non-allergic. Non-hazardous. Our products, and or any of their ingredients, are not regulated under the Hazardous Materials Transportation Act (Title 40) or the EPA Resource and Recovery Act(Title 49). Our oils are non-toxic and non-flammable (Although common sense and our label should be consulted for disposal of wiping cloths). The use of these finishes in commercial applications is not regulated by OSHA. No heavy metal driers. These metallic salts of cobalt and manganese are a health risk to those who manufacure them. In use they areconsidered a health risk only in long term exposure. Fume Free - Zero VOC.No solventsor petroleum distillates are present in Tried & True Wood Finishes. Therefore, there is nocompromise in environmental impact, worker health and safety, or indoor air quality. (note the VERY LIMITED health risks associated with metal driers) http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/althea/FinishingAtoM.htm CRYSTAL COAT Get a sophisticated high-gloss finish that?s also water-and wear-resistant. Quick, easy and no-mess! Perfect for turned pens! Can be applied to wood pens and other turnings right while they?re on the lathe! Easy to use 6 ounce bottle. Designed as a final finish coat. Food safe when dry. u.s.a. only And last, but far from least: www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/finlines/knaeb98c.pdf If you only read ONE of these, this is the one. Bill |
#16
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Bill C. wrote:
John Moorhead wrote in message on Monday 25 April 2005 12:54 pm: Folks - Is Boiled Linseed Oil food-safe for use on a cutting board? You got a lot of 'no' answers. The correct answer is 'yes' ... with the condition that it be allowed to completely cure before use. And that it is in fact linseed oil that has been boiled and not some chemist's nightmare that is sold under that label. Don't assume--make sure. Here are some of the results I found googling with "food safe wood finish' for bait: http://www.waterlox.com/faq.cfm?categoryid=4 Are Waterlox Original finishes food safe/non-toxic? Once Waterlox Original finishes are completely dry (30 days), they are non-toxic. Many customers use Waterlox Original finishes on items such as butcher-block counter tops and cutting boards, salad bowls and bowl turnings, knife handles and eating utensils, children’s toys and furniture, etc. This does not apply to urethane products. http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/standards.htm How safe is it,really? All Tried & True Wood Finishes comply with the inner most circle of product safety established by the FDA: "safe for food contact surfaces" (FDA 21,Sec 175.300). Beeswax and natural varnish resin are FDA approved as non-toxic and non-allergic. Non-hazardous. Our products, and or any of their ingredients, are not regulated under the Hazardous Materials Transportation Act (Title 40) or the EPA Resource and Recovery Act(Title 49). Our oils are non-toxic and non-flammable (Although common sense and our label should be consulted for disposal of wiping cloths). The use of these finishes in commercial applications is not regulated by OSHA. No heavy metal driers. These metallic salts of cobalt and manganese are a health risk to those who manufacure them. In use they areconsidered a health risk only in long term exposure. Fume Free - Zero VOC.No solventsor petroleum distillates are present in Tried & True Wood Finishes. Therefore, there is nocompromise in environmental impact, worker health and safety, or indoor air quality. (note the VERY LIMITED health risks associated with metal driers) Note "only in long term exposure". So how many salads _are_ you planning to eat out of this bowl? Note also "No heavy metal driers" regardless of their risks. http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/althea/FinishingAtoM.htm CRYSTAL COAT Get a sophisticated high-gloss finish that?s also water-and wear-resistant. Quick, easy and no-mess! Perfect for turned pens! Can be applied to wood pens and other turnings right while they?re on the lathe! Easy to use 6 ounce bottle. Designed as a final finish coat. Food safe when dry. u.s.a. only And last, but far from least: www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/finlines/knaeb98c.pdf If you only read ONE of these, this is the one. And it says, under "precautions", "Also be sure the finish you select is recommended for use with food or is described as food grade." In other words, don't just assume that a finish is safe, _check_. The one time you don't Murphy will get you. Don't assume that because the can says "boiled linseed oil" on the outside that that is the only thing in it. Bill -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#17
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J. Clarke says...
And that it is in fact linseed oil that has been boiled and not some chemist's nightmare that is sold under that label. Don't assume--make sure. BLO has always had metallic dryers. It's just that the lead dryers of the old school BLO have been replaced by less toxic cobalt and manganese. Boiling was necessary to dissolve the lead dryer. Manganese and cobalt aren't toxic at low levels. Even cyanide isn't toxic at low enough levels. At high levels over long periods of time cobalt can cause an enlarged thyroid and manganese can interfere with iron uptake. By far the greatest danger with these metals is breathing the dust in a work environment where exposure amounts are off the charts. Ingesting small amounts or even handling it in its pure form occasionally is not dangerous. Finishes contain tiny amounts of the driers and when it cures the driers are locked into the finish, but even if you tipped the can and chugged it, the metallic driers wouldn't be what made you sick. |
#18
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Tried and True BLO brand is touted as being prepared the OLD way
without chemical driers. This is contrary to your "BLO has always had metallic dryers. It's just that the lead dryers of the old school BLO have been replaced by less toxic cobalt and manganese." Comment? On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 11:47:35 -0500, Hax Planx wrote: J. Clarke says... And that it is in fact linseed oil that has been boiled and not some chemist's nightmare that is sold under that label. Don't assume--make sure. BLO has always had metallic dryers. It's just that the lead dryers of the old school BLO have been replaced by less toxic cobalt and manganese. Boiling was necessary to dissolve the lead dryer. Manganese and cobalt aren't toxic at low levels. Even cyanide isn't toxic at low enough levels. At high levels over long periods of time cobalt can cause an enlarged thyroid and manganese can interfere with iron uptake. By far the greatest danger with these metals is breathing the dust in a work environment where exposure amounts are off the charts. Ingesting small amounts or even handling it in its pure form occasionally is not dangerous. Finishes contain tiny amounts of the driers and when it cures the driers are locked into the finish, but even if you tipped the can and chugged it, the metallic driers wouldn't be what made you sick. |
#19
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Hax Planx wrote:
J. Clarke says... And that it is in fact linseed oil that has been boiled and not some chemist's nightmare that is sold under that label. Don't assume--make sure. BLO has always had metallic dryers. It's just that the lead dryers of the old school BLO have been replaced by less toxic cobalt and manganese. Boiling was necessary to dissolve the lead dryer. Manganese and cobalt aren't toxic at low levels. Even cyanide isn't toxic at low enough levels. At high levels over long periods of time cobalt can cause an enlarged thyroid and manganese can interfere with iron uptake. By far the greatest danger with these metals is breathing the dust in a work environment where exposure amounts are off the charts. Ingesting small amounts or even handling it in its pure form occasionally is not dangerous. Finishes contain tiny amounts of the driers and when it cures the driers are locked into the finish, but even if you tipped the can and chugged it, the metallic driers wouldn't be what made you sick. Look, the bottom line on this is to check that it's FDA approved for food contact, not just assume it's safe because some random individual said on USENET that it was. -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#20
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nospambob says...
Tried and True BLO brand is touted as being prepared the OLD way without chemical driers. This is contrary to your "BLO has always had metallic dryers. It's just that the lead dryers of the old school BLO have been replaced by less toxic cobalt and manganese." Comment? I don't see a BLO listed on their web site. I see Danish Oil, Varnish Oil and Original Wood Finish. They say their products are based on linseed oil polymerized in a traditional way, but don't explain what that process is. |
#21
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J. Clarke wrote in message on Tuesday 26
April 2005 09:04 am: (note the VERY LIMITED health risks associated with metal driers) Note "only in long term exposure". So how many salads _are_ you planning to eat out of this bowl? Note also "No heavy metal driers" regardless of their risks. agggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ... the sky is falling, the sky is falling! ;-) People who manufacture these metallic salts recieve long-term exposure. And what they do _is_ fraught with hazard. In fact, they wear much the same protective garb as folks who process mineral oil. However, users of salad bowls are not manufacturers of metallic salts and do not recieve 'long term exposure'. They recieve 'intermittant / sporadic' exposure at extremely low levels. Different animal altogether. That was a carefully worded advertising blurb trying to sell you on the negligible advantages of using their product over some other. Not too different from selling 'high-fiber' foods from a processing plant located next door to a sawmill. So how many salads are _you_ planning to eat? Enough to exceed the Permissable Exposure Limit (PEL) on a regular basis? I rather doubt that. I don't think you could even approach the PEL for those salts if you threw away the salad and actually ate the bowl. Here are some numbers for cobalt from the National Safety Council. "People who work in the coal mining and hard metal industry, cobalt dye painters in porcelain factories, and workers in the ore processing and chemical manufacturing industries may be exposed to cobalt inhalation at higher than background levels." Exposure Values: * IDLH: 20 mg/m3 (as Co) (NIOSH, 1997 * NIOSH REL: TWA 0.05 mg/m3 * OSHA PEL: 0.1 mg/m3 http://www.nsc.org/library/chemical/cobalt.htm (note: cobalt is a constituent of vitamin B-12) and for manganese: Exposure Values: * IDLH: 500 mg/m3 (NIOSH, 1997) * NIOSH REL: TWA 1 mg/m3 ST 3 mg/m3 * OSHA PEL: C 5 mg/m3 [*Note: Also see specific listings for Manganese cyclopentadienyl tricarbonyl and Methyl cyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl.] http://www.nsc.org/library/chemical/Maganese.htm Note that the NIOSH REL is a Time Weighted Average (TWA) based on 10 hours per day / 40 hours per week. Oft-recommended mineral oil also has both a PEL and an LD50. Do a Google search for yourself if you don't want to accept this posting from OSHA. http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/healthguide...cognition.html Yet, since there hasn't been any advertising against it, people on this list just accept it as being safe for food contact surfaces. As it, indeed, is. "All finishes are non-toxic when fully cured, despite what you may have read or heard. Once the solvents are evaporated, the cured film is safe enough for contact with food. This does not mean that the finish itself is safe to gobble up. It means that additives such as driers or plasticizers are encapsulated enough so that they do not migrate to what you?re eating. For edible finishes, wax and shellac are the only ones I?m aware of (which is why apples and candy are coated with these)" http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ht...singFinish.htm Shellac is also frequently used as a coating to retard the dissolving of medicine ... for instance, that 81mg enteric coated aspirin doctors urge us all to take daily. You probably don't want to know where antifreeze ends up ... read any good candy bar wrappers lately? Here's the gig, as I see it. The US gubmint says BLO is non-toxic if allowed to cure first. Reasoning on this by doing the rough math, I see that metallic salt ingredients that were most likely in the ppm range (Too low, in fact, to require protective labeling or even inclusion on the label at all.) in the original container are reduced to the parts per billion range on my salad (a few millionths, by weight, of a microgram of finish on a comparatively huge chunk of tomato) and in the parts per trillion (or even more dilute) range when I put the fork in my mouth. Since I suspect that I get a larger and more frequent dose of heavy metals than that just by breathing, I'm willing to risk eating as much of that salad as you care to buy. But, not from McDonalds. I, personally, think the risk is higher when you serve that salad from a plastic bowl ... off-gassing and plastic shreds, you know. And who knows what risks you face serving it from a colored glass bowl? Once it's cured, it's safe. Anything else is unsupported by fact. I must most respectfully disagree with you. Bill |
#22
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Bill C. wrote:
J. Clarke wrote in message on Tuesday 26 April 2005 09:04 am: (note the VERY LIMITED health risks associated with metal driers) Note "only in long term exposure". So how many salads _are_ you planning to eat out of this bowl? Note also "No heavy metal driers" regardless of their risks. agggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ... the sky is falling, the sky is falling! much blather about the safety of metallic salts in coatings snipped Once it's cured, it's safe. Anything else is unsupported by fact. Fine, find me an assertion by a physician, government agency, or some other source that one can tell with certainty has no affiliation with the coatings industry to the effect that ALL coatings containing metallic driers are safe when used in contact with food. If you can't produce such a statement then go pound sand. I must most respectfully disagree with you. Look, you use what you want to, but if I ever find out that you have sold me anything that is going to come in contact with the food I eat that has toxic metals in it WITHOUT telling me so that I can make my own decision about the risk, my lawyers are going to tear you two or three new assholes. Why is it so important to you that people regard coatings with toxic metal driers as being "safe once it's cured"? Do you make metallic driers or something? I agree that the risk if any is probably minimal. But "probably minimal" and "proven safe" are not the same thing. And especially when you say ALL coatings. Bill -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#23
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Hax Planx wrote:
nospambob says... Tried and True BLO brand is touted as being prepared the OLD way without chemical driers. This is contrary to your "BLO has always had metallic dryers. It's just that the lead dryers of the old school BLO have been replaced by less toxic cobalt and manganese." Comment? I don't see a BLO listed on their web site. I see Danish Oil, Varnish Oil and Original Wood Finish. They say their products are based on linseed oil polymerized in a traditional way, but don't explain what that process is. From http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/: "No Heavy Metal Driers" From http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products.htm "Danish Oil is pure, moderately polymerized linseed oil." Seems pretty clear that their "Danish oil" is functionally boiled linseed oil and it also seems pretty clear that they do not use metallic driers. -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#24
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"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... Look, the bottom line on this is to check that it's FDA approved for food contact, not just assume it's safe because some random individual said on USENET that it was. Except that it is up to the manufacturer to prove that it's safe, and the hoops are many, expensive and stupid. Precisely why nobody bothers, especially as there is the blanket that all oxygen-cured finishes are deemed safe. The real bottom line is to realize that death is more likely from a doorknob covered with bacteria than ingestion of cured finish. |
#25
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J. Clarke says...
From http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/: "No Heavy Metal Driers" From http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products.htm "Danish Oil is pure, moderately polymerized linseed oil." Seems pretty clear that their "Danish oil" is functionally boiled linseed oil and it also seems pretty clear that they do not use metallic driers. I really didn't want to get into an argument about semantics, but the fact is they don't have a product labeled as BLO. Your functional equivalence statement is your assessment, not theirs or mine. I doubt that it does behave the same way. It may be better in some ways, or it may be worse in some ways. I'm not going to do experiments to find out more. You can if you so desire. |
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