Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Swingman
 
Posts: n/a
Default Tapering Jig

For years I've been using one of those $19.95 aluminum tapering jigs and
felt like I've cheated death each and every time I use it to cut tapered
legs. I literally breathe a sigh of relief when that part of a tapered leg
table project is over and done with ... until the next time.

Faced with cutting 12 walnut tapered legs for some commissioned tables
yesterday, I quickly fabricated the simple tapering jig mentioned in FWW's
recent "Power Tools" edition.

Big difference, and a pleasure, and much safer, to use:

http://e-woodshop.net/files/Taperjig1.jpg
http://e-woodshop.net/files/Taperjig2.jpg
http://e-woodshop.net/files/12Legs.JPG

For anyone else who has been procrastinating, this particular tapering jig
is highly recommended, can be fabricated in well under an hour, is
infinitely adjustable, and beats hell out of my old aluminum wonder, or any
one-off tapering jig I've used.

(Tip: it is not necessary to spend a great deal of time cutting out a
perfectly circular cam ... I simply used a paint can to draw a circle,
freehanded it on the bandsaw in a couple of minutes, then used the
stationary belt sander to touch it up.)

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05





  #2   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Swingman wrote:
For years I've been using one of those $19.95 aluminum tapering jigs

and
felt like I've cheated death each and every time I use it to cut

tapered
legs. I literally breathe a sigh of relief when that part of a

tapered leg
table project is over and done with ... until the next time.

Faced with cutting 12 walnut tapered legs for some commissioned

tables
yesterday, I quickly fabricated the simple tapering jig mentioned in

FWW's
recent "Power Tools" edition.

Big difference, and a pleasure, and much safer, to use:

http://e-woodshop.net/files/Taperjig1.jpg
http://e-woodshop.net/files/Taperjig2.jpg
http://e-woodshop.net/files/12Legs.JPG

For anyone else who has been procrastinating, this particular

tapering jig
is highly recommended, can be fabricated in well under an hour, is
infinitely adjustable, and beats hell out of my old aluminum wonder,

or any
one-off tapering jig I've used.

(Tip: it is not necessary to spend a great deal of time cutting out a
perfectly circular cam ... I simply used a paint can to draw a

circle,
freehanded it on the bandsaw in a couple of minutes, then used the
stationary belt sander to touch it up.)

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05



Thanks for sharing and for the pics. I too hate using the traditional
jigs - mine is a simple homemade version with two boards and a hinge
that roused similar fears each time I used it.

I think I'll build one like your's now - definitely looks safer and
probably easier to set up as well.

Thanks again, and nice legs!

Eric

  #3   Report Post  
Swingman
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message

I think I'll build one like your's now - definitely looks safer and
probably easier to set up as well.

Thanks again, and nice legs!


Watch yourself, fella!?

Actually, I forgot to mention how just _much_ easier it is to setup a taper
cut since you have a blade reference edge, just like you do with any table
saw sled.

No more trying to line up the beginning, and end, of the taper with the saw
blade itself, IME a frustrating and imprecise task in any event.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05


  #4   Report Post  
Joe
 
Posts: n/a
Default


Swingman wrote:
For years I've been using one of those $19.95 aluminum tapering jigs

and
felt like I've cheated death each and every time I use it to cut

tapered
legs. I literally breathe a sigh of relief when that part of a

tapered leg
table project is over and done with ... until the next time.

Faced with cutting 12 walnut tapered legs for some commissioned

tables
yesterday, I quickly fabricated the simple tapering jig mentioned in

FWW's
recent "Power Tools" edition.

Big difference, and a pleasure, and much safer, to use:

http://e-woodshop.net/files/Taperjig1.jpg
http://e-woodshop.net/files/Taperjig2.jpg
http://e-woodshop.net/files/12Legs.JPG

For anyone else who has been procrastinating, this particular

tapering jig
is highly recommended, can be fabricated in well under an hour, is
infinitely adjustable, and beats hell out of my old aluminum wonder,

or any
one-off tapering jig I've used.

(Tip: it is not necessary to spend a great deal of time cutting out a
perfectly circular cam ... I simply used a paint can to draw a

circle,
freehanded it on the bandsaw in a couple of minutes, then used the
stationary belt sander to touch it up.)

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05


I always thought those aluminum things looked dangerous, not much
controlling the wood. I made one similar to yours but I installed 3
pieces of T tracks in the sled that run perpendicular to the miter. Use
the same clamps. Works great lots of flexibility
Joey

  #5   Report Post  
Swingman
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Joe" wrote in message

I made one similar to yours but I installed 3
pieces of T tracks in the sled that run perpendicular to the miter. Use
the same clamps. Works great lots of flexibility


I agree ... I was planning on doing that to mine the next time I got to
Rockler or Woodcraft and could pick up a short T track. I use those clamps
with T tracks on my drill press table and it would definitely be better to
be able to 'square' the clamp to the workpiece.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05




  #6   Report Post  
B a r r y
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Swingman wrote:
I quickly fabricated the simple tapering jig mentioned in FWW's
recent "Power Tools" edition.

Big difference, and a pleasure, and much safer, to use:


Very similar to the version I've been using for years.

Too simple to make not to use.

http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/Skinnysledtaper2.jpg

Barry
  #7   Report Post  
SonomaProducts.com
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Nice!

Yes, I've come to learn that any operation thet gets my heart pumping
is a sign to find a better method.

  #8   Report Post  
B a r r y
 
Posts: n/a
Default

SonomaProducts.com wrote:
Nice!

Yes, I've come to learn that any operation thet gets my heart pumping
is a sign to find a better method.



Safe woodworking is like good defense in most sports, boring!

Exciting defense often means someone blew their fundamental duties.

Exciting wooddorking usually means DANGER!

Barry
  #9   Report Post  
TheNewGuy
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Barry & Swingman,

A question for ya: why have the jig run in the miter slot, instead of
just running/referencing it along the fence?

I would think there would be less fussing with getting the workpiece
perfectly setup on the sled: i.e., with the mitre track version, you
have to set the workpiece angle AND distance perfectly before clamping;
if the whole sled/jig was instead referenced from the TS fence, then
you only have to get the angle right, and finetune the distance w/ the
fence setting.

Or am I missing something.

Thanks,
Chris

B a r r y wrote:
Swingman wrote:
I quickly fabricated the simple tapering jig mentioned in FWW's
recent "Power Tools" edition.

Big difference, and a pleasure, and much safer, to use:


Very similar to the version I've been using for years.

Too simple to make not to use.

http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/Skinnysledtaper2.jpg

Barry


  #10   Report Post  
Doug Miller
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article . com, "TheNewGuy" wrote:

A question for ya: why have the jig run in the miter slot, instead of
just running/referencing it along the fence?


With the jig running in the miter slot, you want to make the jig just a bit
too wide so that the first time it's used, a bit of it gets trimmed off. That
turns the jig into a zero-clearance support for the workpiece, and reduces the
possibility of tearout.

There may be other reasons, I don't know, but that's the one that occurs to
me.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?


  #11   Report Post  
B a r r y
 
Posts: n/a
Default

TheNewGuy wrote:
Barry & Swingman,

A question for ya: why have the jig run in the miter slot, instead of
just running/referencing it along the fence?

I would think there would be less fussing with getting the workpiece
perfectly setup on the sled: i.e., with the mitre track version, you
have to set the workpiece angle AND distance perfectly before clamping;
if the whole sled/jig was instead referenced from the TS fence, then
you only have to get the angle right, and finetune the distance w/ the
fence setting.


Answering only for myself...

The edge of the miter track sled ends up exactly where the blade kerf
starts, as you've used the blade to trim the sled to width. It's
extremely obvious where the taper will start and end when you can use
the edge of the sled as a reference.

I make my sleds by gluing an oversize piece of plywood to a runner.
After the glue dries, I add some countersunk screws or brads to
reinforce the runner to sheet connection. One trip down the slot trims
the plywood to final width.

You don't really set the distance. The stops kind of automagically do
that on the track version. The end and side stops aren't glued, but are
attached in the proper place for each need.

Using the fence creates two problems:

KICKBACK! You are trapping both the device and the work between a fence
and a blade. One wiggle and... FIRE!

The fence can cause problems if the leg is curved or long enough to
overhang the far side of the device. It's much easier to only have to
worry about one edge of the tool. Stops, clamp handles, etc... can
overhang the other three as needed with no worries.

Barry
  #12   Report Post  
Swingman
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"B a r r y" wrote in message

Answering only for myself...


You covered the bases ... although I do have a couple of jigs that ride the
fence safely, like the one I use for cutting splines in miter joints, the
reference edge, on a taper jig like this one that rides in the miter slot,
makes for _much_ easier setup.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05


  #13   Report Post  
Swingman
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
Nice!

Yes, I've come to learn that any operation thet gets my heart pumping
is a sign to find a better method.


Ya know, it's funny ... I see these aluminum jigs for sale all over the
place and have never heard of anyone having any trouble with them (nor
actually, have I), so it might just be me. There was nothing wrong with
whatever it is that passed for courage when the bullets were flying, but
whatever it is escapes me when it comes to putting body parts
unnecessarily/foolishly at risk, and I've tried every way in the world to
use an aluminum taper jig in what felt to me like a safe manner - have even
been known to do a couple of legs one day, before screwing up enough courage
to finish the last two the next - but it _always_ felt like I was taking a
chance with that damn thing.

.... and at that usual work rate I figured it might take me a week to do
those 12 legs.

This is _much_ better.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05


  #14   Report Post  
Leon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Very nice Sir... I think I'll have to make one for myself also.


  #15   Report Post  
TheNewGuy
 
Posts: n/a
Default


B a r r y wrote:

It's
extremely obvious where the taper will start and end when you can use


the edge of the sled as a reference.


Alright, that makes good sense.

You don't really set the distance. The stops kind of automagically

do
that on the track version. The end and side stops aren't glued, but

are
attached in the proper place for each need.


On the pics from Swingman, that circular side stop looks like it's
just nailed in place! ... putting it on a t-track perp. to the blade
would be a good upgrade, I think. The tail stop was already nicely
adjustable.

Using the fence creates two problems:

KICKBACK! You are trapping both the device and the work between a

fence
and a blade. One wiggle and... FIRE!


Mmmmm, well I didn't see this as a big concern, for various reasons,
the main one being that I wouldn't be riding the sled right-up against
the blade - could comfortably leave a 1/8-1/4" gap, though as you two
pointed out, the mitre slot version gives full 0-clearance support. ...
though, not on the cutoff side of the blade. .... if you cut the taper
from thickest to thinnest, it seems there would be an issue of the
cutoff falling/tearing before the cut is complete?

The fence can cause problems if the leg is curved or long enough to
overhang the far side of the device. It's much easier to only have

to
worry about one edge of the tool. Stops, clamp handles, etc... can
overhang the other three as needed with no worries.


I can see that.

Thanks for your thoughts.

-Chris



  #16   Report Post  
Swingman
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"TheNewGuy" wrote in message

On the pics from Swingman, that circular side stop looks like it's
just nailed in place! ... putting it on a t-track perp. to the blade
would be a good upgrade, I think. The tail stop was already nicely
adjustable.


That is actually a "cam" ... a circle of plywood, with the wood screw (not
nail) off center, which allows for a good deal of very solid adjustment. I
am sure there are many ways to effect the same thing, but the plywood cam is
quick, cheap (scraps), and it works very well.

Besides, if it's good enough for FWW, I can probably live with it.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05



  #17   Report Post  
Swingman
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"Leon" wrote in message
Very nice Sir... I think I'll have to make one for myself also.


LOL ... You probably recognized what's left of that funky "A grade" plywood
Clark's was so proud of? After seeing your past work, yours will probably be
done with hardwood, dovetail joinery, waxed and finished to perfection, and
ready for the museum of fine arts.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05


  #18   Report Post  
TheNewGuy
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Ooops! My bad Didn't look closely enough at the photos - and
haven't seen the FWW article/plan. ... well, that certainly makes alot
more sense.

  #19   Report Post  
Leon
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in message
Very nice Sir... I think I'll have to make one for myself also.


LOL ... You probably recognized what's left of that funky "A grade"
plywood
Clark's was so proud of? After seeing your past work, yours will probably
be
done with hardwood, dovetail joinery, waxed and finished to perfection,
and
ready for the museum of fine arts.



I am going to Stallman's to get the plywood for the rest of my kitchen job.
They have at least as good of plywood for $10 a sheet less. Plus they are
only 3 or 4 miles away from me. My customer just brought a knob by that I
am going to put on all the cabinets. He had to special order the knobs. He
paid over $500 for just the knobs and drawer pulls... Whew...


  #20   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Swingman" wrote in message
...

Big difference, and a pleasure, and much safer, to use:

http://e-woodshop.net/files/Taperjig1.jpg
http://e-woodshop.net/files/Taperjig2.jpg
http://e-woodshop.net/files/12Legs.JPG

For anyone else who has been procrastinating, this particular tapering jig
is highly recommended,


Fantastic. I made a wood version of the aluminum taper jib but I'm really
not happy with it.


Does it have to be natural plywood or will it work if JOAT paints it
yellow?




  #21   Report Post  
Swingman
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message

Does it have to be natural plywood or will it work if JOAT paints it
yellow?


While that ain't exactly the color of my aura, YMMV:

"Yellows are the most fun-loving, free-spirited, energetic, and childlike
personalities in the aura spectrum. Yellows are wonderful, sensitive,
optimistic beings, whose life purpose is to bring joy to people, to have
fun, and to help heal the planet.

Yellows can either be very shy and sensitive, or they can be the life of the
party. These playful characters have a great sense of humor. They love to
laugh and to make others laugh. Yellows believe life is to be enjoyed. They
like to live life freely and spontaneously. With a perpetual smile on their
face, they remind people to not take themselves or their problems too
seriously.

Yellows would prefer not to work at all, unless their work was fun, playful,
or creative. They love nature, and often have concerns for the survival of
wildlife and the environment. Dogs are very drawn to Yellows and often
become their best friends."

..... be hard for a jig to live up to that, but sounds just like you imagine
JOAT, doesn't it?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/17/05


  #22   Report Post  
Lee Gordon
 
Posts: n/a
Default

That looks like an elegant solution. I built one of Norm's tapering jigs
but I think I'd rather use something a little less scary. Yours also seems
easier to set a precise width for the narrow end of the taper.

Lee

--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"


  #23   Report Post  
Edwin Pawlowski
 
Posts: n/a
Default


"Swingman" wrote in message



"Yellows are the most fun-loving, free-spirited, energetic, and childlike
personalities in the aura spectrum. Yellows are wonderful, sensitive,
optimistic beings, whose life purpose is to bring joy to people, to have
fun, and to help heal the planet.

Yellows can either be very shy and sensitive, or they can be the life of
the
party. These playful characters have a great sense of humor. They love to
laugh and to make others laugh. Yellows believe life is to be enjoyed.
They
like to live life freely and spontaneously. With a perpetual smile on
their
face, they remind people to not take themselves or their problems too
seriously.

Yellows would prefer not to work at all, unless their work was fun,
playful,
or creative. They love nature, and often have concerns for the survival of
wildlife and the environment. Dogs are very drawn to Yellows and often
become their best friends."

.... be hard for a jig to live up to that, but sounds just like you
imagine
JOAT, doesn't it?



Hmmm, essence of JOAT. Bet we could sell it


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:29 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2023, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004-2023 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"