B a r r y wrote:

It's
extremely obvious where the taper will start and end when you can use

the edge of the sled as a reference.

Alright, that makes good sense.

You don't really set the distance. The stops kind of automagically
do
that on the track version. The end and side stops aren't glued, but
are
attached in the proper place for each need.

On the pics from Swingman, that circular side stop looks like it's
just nailed in place! ... putting it on a t-track perp. to the blade
would be a good upgrade, I think. The tail stop was already nicely
adjustable.

Using the fence creates two problems:

KICKBACK! You are trapping both the device and the work between a
fence
and a blade. One wiggle and... FIRE!

Mmmmm, well I didn't see this as a big concern, for various reasons,
the main one being that I wouldn't be riding the sled right-up against
the blade - could comfortably leave a 1/8-1/4" gap, though as you two
pointed out, the mitre slot version gives full 0-clearance support. ...
though, not on the cutoff side of the blade. .... if you cut the taper
from thickest to thinnest, it seems there would be an issue of the
cutoff falling/tearing before the cut is complete?

The fence can cause problems if the leg is curved or long enough to
overhang the far side of the device. It's much easier to only have
to
worry about one edge of the tool. Stops, clamp handles, etc... can
overhang the other three as needed with no worries.

I can see that.

Thanks for your thoughts.

-Chris