Wow.. Looks like money to me, Mac.. Natural edges on outside really
add to the look and you certainly are kicking it up a notch with those
hollowed out enveloping tops.. Not sure what you call them.. Looks
difficult to make.. Especially with ironwood.. Beautiful.. -Jim

On 1/24/2010 4:34 PM, mac davis wrote:

On Sun, 24 Jan 2010 21:49:38 -0800, Jim Hall
wrote:

Wow.. Looks like money to me, Mac.. Natural edges on outside really
add to the look and you certainly are kicking it up a notch with those
hollowed out enveloping tops.. Not sure what you call them.. Looks
difficult to make.. Especially with ironwood.. Beautiful.. -Jim

On 1/24/2010 4:34 PM, mac davis wrote:
Thanks, Jim.. It's been a challenge, for sure...
I'm finding out that as much as I'm liking the IDEA of semi-hollow forms, I'm
hating the interior sanding..
I've got about 3 hours of hand and power sanding in on this one so far and still
2 grits left..
After sanding, I'll reverse it with a vac chuck and take the tenon off...
I'm thinking that I'll probably round the bottom a little more when it's
reversed, to give it more of the "apple" shape..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Very nice. I agree about the inside sanding. There seems to be no easy
way to do it.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

111,111,111 x 111,111,111 =
12,345,678,987,654,321

On Mon, 25 Jan 2010 04:44:46 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

Very nice. I agree about the inside sanding. There seems to be no easy
way to do it.

Yep.. started out with a 2" disc on an extension, then had to go back to the old
fashioned "hold paper in hand and run lathe" way through grits 80 to 220..
Working now at 320 with 3" Wave paper on a 2" pad and it seems to work ok..

I think instead of buffing the inside, I'll get lazy and use Ultra Shine instead
of bowl buffs..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jan 2010 04:44:46 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

Very nice. I agree about the inside sanding. There seems to be no easy
way to do it.

Yep.. started out with a 2" disc on an extension, then had to go back to the old
fashioned "hold paper in hand and run lathe" way through grits 80 to 220..
Working now at 320 with 3" Wave paper on a 2" pad and it seems to work ok..

I think instead of buffing the inside, I'll get lazy and use Ultra Shine instead
of bowl buffs..

Take some paste wax and smear it on the inside of the critter. Then do
your sanding. I'll soften the wood fibers and make it a *lot* easier.
The wax will be gone by the time you finish with the 80 grit but you'll
have a surface that is ready for the succession of finer grits...

--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
In a recent poll, seven out of ten hard drives preferred Linux.

On Mon, 25 Jan 2010 12:25:36 -0900, Kevin Miller wrote:

mac davis wrote:


Take some paste wax and smear it on the inside of the critter. Then do
your sanding. I'll soften the wood fibers and make it a *lot* easier.
The wax will be gone by the time you finish with the 80 grit but you'll
have a surface that is ready for the succession of finer grits...

Thanks, Kevin, but that doesn't work on ironwood.. I refuses to have fibers..
lol

OTOH, after sanding to 400, Ultra Shine works well, at high speed..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 15:12:11 -0600, Dave Balderstone
wrote:

In article , mac davis
wrote:

begin 644 wip01.jpg

What a gorgeous piece of wood...

It's actually a scrap that I decided to practice on, Dave..
I really didn't think that this cracked, irregular shaped piece would hold
together on the lathe..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 13:35:09 -0800, mac davis

It's actually a scrap that I decided to practice on, Dave..
I really didn't think that this cracked, irregular shaped piece would hold
together on the lathe..

Can I assume then, that you might do much of lathe work behind some
kind of shield?

I've been hit in the chest once by a kickback from a tablesaw. I can
only imagine what it would be like to be hit by some projectile flying
off a reasonably fast spinning block of wood.

Upscale wrote: Can I assume then, that you might do much of lathe work
behind some kind of shield? I've been hit in the chest once by a kickback
from a tablesaw. I can only imagine what it would be like to be hit by some
projectile flying off a reasonably fast spinning block of wood.

You need a chest protector like this

On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 20:18:58 -0600, the infamous "Licker"
scrawled the following:


Upscale wrote: Can I assume then, that you might do much of lathe work
behind some kind of shield? I've been hit in the chest once by a kickback
from a tablesaw. I can only imagine what it would be like to be hit by some
projectile flying off a reasonably fast spinning block of wood.

You need a chest protector like this

Somebody obviously had a run-in with some kickback, huh?

---
"Some of us are wondering if we have created a monster."
Kevin Vranes, climate scientist, University of Colorado
talking about global warming hysteria, January, 2007.

On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 16:51:59 -0500, Upscale wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jan 2010 13:35:09 -0800, mac davis

It's actually a scrap that I decided to practice on, Dave..
I really didn't think that this cracked, irregular shaped piece would hold
together on the lathe..

Can I assume then, that you might do much of lathe work behind some
kind of shield?

I've been hit in the chest once by a kickback from a tablesaw. I can
only imagine what it would be like to be hit by some projectile flying
off a reasonably fast spinning block of wood.

Nope, just safety glasses and keeping out of the throw zone..
I get several pieces a week that chip of fall off, most just drop onto the lathe
bed, some bounce to the rear.. never had anything come at me..

Most fragments will fall below where the tool is touching them, and rotation
carries them to the rear of the piece.. It keeps the shop cats busy chasing
them, though.. lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing