Dear Rec,



I have attached three pictures to illustrate my questions. I think I have
made them small enough for easy download, but I can't be sure until after I
post them, so..sorry if they come out big.



I have a 10" wide, quick acting woodworking vise that I got from my dad. I
currently have it mounted on my workbench, but I am planning a bench upgrade
(better, flatter top) and I want to remount the vise to give me the maximum
benefit of its features.



As you can see in the pictures, I have attached maple the jaw faces. If you
will note, the moving jaw has a lip on the top that extends full width and
stands proud of the top by about 5/16". The thickness of the lip is about
half the jaw thickness.



Currently, I have the vise mounted so the lip extends above the plane of my
workbench top. I have also drilled a set of dog holes opposite the vise
with the thinking that I can use the vise in combination with dogs to clamp
larger pieces to the bench top. This works OK although the 5/16" lip doesn't
have all that much of a grab face. The down side of this set-up is that if
I'm moving pieces around on my bench and they stick out over the sides, they
invariably hit the vise lip and I mar the piece.



I would like, therefore, to solicit from the collected wisdom of this group
with the following questions:



1. Have you ever seen a vise like this before? How was it mounted
relative to the workbench top?



2. Would you recommend I mount this vise to continue to use the lip with
the dogs or do you feel I should mount it lower to get the lip out of the
way?



3. If I mount the vise lower, should I retain the current maple jaw liners
or should I make a set that would extend up to the bench top, perhaps
routing away part of the wood so it tucks up against the lip?



4. Are there any other mounting/use options I have overlooked?



As I said, I got this vise from my dad. I imagine I could probably find a
better one, but I want to keep this vise (and al the tools I inherited) as
working tools that are part of what I create in my shop.



Thanks for your input,



Bill Leonhardt

"No name" wrote in message



I have attached three pictures to illustrate my questions. I think I have
made them small enough for easy download, but I can't be sure until after
I
post them, so..sorry if they come out big.

See if this helps.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

If you're willing to give up a little jaw opening width. You can make a
wider wood pad for the adjustable jaw and with a dado blade cut a dado or
two in the pad so that when you attach it to the jaw with the dado(s) facing
the jaw you end up with square hole(s) for benchdog(s). If you're worried
about the wood screws not holding the pad with the added pressure of the
benchdogs, you could counter sink some holes in the face of the pad for nuts
and attach the pad with machine threaded screws rather than wood screws. If
you use round benchdogs you can drill holes down through the pad instead of
dadoing. That might allow you to mount the vice low enough on your new
bench to eliminate the problem you're having.


"No name" wrote in message
...
Dear Rec,



I have attached three pictures to illustrate my questions. I think I have
made them small enough for easy download, but I can't be sure until after
I post them, so..sorry if they come out big.



I have a 10" wide, quick acting woodworking vise that I got from my dad.
I currently have it mounted on my workbench, but I am planning a bench
upgrade (better, flatter top) and I want to remount the vise to give me
the maximum benefit of its features.



As you can see in the pictures, I have attached maple the jaw faces. If
you will note, the moving jaw has a lip on the top that extends full width
and stands proud of the top by about 5/16". The thickness of the lip is
about half the jaw thickness.



Currently, I have the vise mounted so the lip extends above the plane of
my workbench top. I have also drilled a set of dog holes opposite the
vise with the thinking that I can use the vise in combination with dogs to
clamp larger pieces to the bench top. This works OK although the 5/16"
lip doesn't have all that much of a grab face. The down side of this
set-up is that if I'm moving pieces around on my bench and they stick out
over the sides, they invariably hit the vise lip and I mar the piece.



I would like, therefore, to solicit from the collected wisdom of this
group with the following questions:



1. Have you ever seen a vise like this before? How was it mounted
relative to the workbench top?



2. Would you recommend I mount this vise to continue to use the lip with
the dogs or do you feel I should mount it lower to get the lip out of the
way?



3. If I mount the vise lower, should I retain the current maple jaw
liners or should I make a set that would extend up to the bench top,
perhaps routing away part of the wood so it tucks up against the lip?



4. Are there any other mounting/use options I have overlooked?



As I said, I got this vise from my dad. I imagine I could probably find a
better one, but I want to keep this vise (and al the tools I inherited) as
working tools that are part of what I create in my shop.



Thanks for your input,



Bill Leonhardt

Jim,

Thanks for the input. I have been thinking much along the same lines. On
the one hand I could use rectangular steel dogs and, with the appropriate
dados in the pad, have the dogs bear directly against the jaw. If I use
round dogs, then perhaps it would be better to have the jaws extend more to
the side and have the round hole beside the jaw.

I like your suggestion about reinforcing the screw attachments. I
mistakenly thought at first that all the force would be pushing the pad
against the jaw but, with the dog, it will be against the jaw on top but
away from the jaw on the bottom. Reinforcing the screw attachments seems
prudient.

Thanks again,
Bill


"Jim Hall" wrote in message
. ..
If you're willing to give up a little jaw opening width. You can make a
wider wood pad for the adjustable jaw and with a dado blade cut a dado or
two in the pad so that when you attach it to the jaw with the dado(s)
facing the jaw you end up with square hole(s) for benchdog(s). If you're
worried about the wood screws not holding the pad with the added pressure
of the benchdogs, you could counter sink some holes in the face of the pad
for nuts and attach the pad with machine threaded screws rather than wood
screws. If you use round benchdogs you can drill holes down through the
pad instead of dadoing. That might allow you to mount the vice low enough
on your new bench to eliminate the problem you're having.


"No name" wrote in message
...
Dear Rec,



I have attached three pictures to illustrate my questions. I think I
have made them small enough for easy download, but I can't be sure until
after I post them, so..sorry if they come out big.



I have a 10" wide, quick acting woodworking vise that I got from my dad.
I currently have it mounted on my workbench, but I am planning a bench
upgrade (better, flatter top) and I want to remount the vise to give me
the maximum benefit of its features.



As you can see in the pictures, I have attached maple the jaw faces. If
you will note, the moving jaw has a lip on the top that extends full
width and stands proud of the top by about 5/16". The thickness of the
lip is about half the jaw thickness.



Currently, I have the vise mounted so the lip extends above the plane of
my workbench top. I have also drilled a set of dog holes opposite the
vise with the thinking that I can use the vise in combination with dogs
to clamp larger pieces to the bench top. This works OK although the
5/16" lip doesn't have all that much of a grab face. The down side of
this set-up is that if I'm moving pieces around on my bench and they
stick out over the sides, they invariably hit the vise lip and I mar the
piece.



I would like, therefore, to solicit from the collected wisdom of this
group with the following questions:



1. Have you ever seen a vise like this before? How was it mounted
relative to the workbench top?



2. Would you recommend I mount this vise to continue to use the lip
with the dogs or do you feel I should mount it lower to get the lip out
of the way?



3. If I mount the vise lower, should I retain the current maple jaw
liners or should I make a set that would extend up to the bench top,
perhaps routing away part of the wood so it tucks up against the lip?



4. Are there any other mounting/use options I have overlooked?



As I said, I got this vise from my dad. I imagine I could probably find
a better one, but I want to keep this vise (and al the tools I inherited)
as working tools that are part of what I create in my shop.



Thanks for your input,



Bill Leonhardt

"No name" wrote in message

Dear Rec,

I have a 10" wide, quick acting woodworking vise that I got from my
dad.

Currently, I have the vise mounted so the lip extends above the plane
of my workbench top. I have also drilled a set of dog holes opposite
the vise with the thinking that I can use the vise in combination with
dogs to clamp larger pieces to the bench top. This works OK although
the 5/16" lip doesn't have all that much of a grab face. The down
side of this set-up is that if I'm moving pieces around on my bench
and they stick out over the sides, they invariably hit the vise lip
and I mar the piece.

I would like, therefore, to solicit from the collected wisdom of this
group with the following questions:

1. Have you ever seen a vise like this before? How was it mounted
relative to the workbench top?

2. Would you recommend I mount this vise to continue to use the lip
with the dogs or do you feel I should mount it lower to get the lip
out of the way?

3. If I mount the vise lower, should I retain the current maple jaw
liners or should I make a set that would extend up to the bench top,
perhaps routing away part of the wood so it tucks up against the lip?

You are the best one to answer these questions, not us. How often do
you use the lip and bench dogs to hold stuff? Most vices like this have
a sliding metal tab that you can use to hold stuff. Mine does, and I
rarely use it. To me, it doesn't look like it would do much marring to
make eliminating it worthwhile. If I HAD to get rid of it and HAD to
have the dog, I would put two dado's in a thicker wood face and have 2
pieces of oak that fit in them when needed.

As I said, I got this vise from my dad. I imagine I could probably
find a better one, but I want to keep this vise (and al the tools I
inherited) as working tools that are part of what I create in my shop.

I'd never get rid of any tools I inherited from my father. They give me
pleasure just looking at them, and I use his stuff all the time. I
doubt you could find a better vice.

--
Jack
http://jbstein.com

On Thu, 24 Jul 2008 11:02:57 -0400, "No name" wrote:

My first impression from the pictures is that I'd replace the maple faces with
ones that were about 5 or 6" longer... Then, besides protecting your work, they
add a bit of holding and alignment..
My vise has a slide-up metal dog but I prefer holes in the top of the
sacrificial face with round dogs..

I'm pretty happy with my shop-made dogs, though I don't do much flat work..
I started with 1 1/4" square stock, cut to about 3" long, and chucked them on
the lathe and turned a round taper on the "bench" end.. Gives an easy, self
aligning peg that has a flat face for better holding.. YMWV

Dear Rec,



I have attached three pictures to illustrate my questions. I think I have
made them small enough for easy download, but I can't be sure until after I
post them, so..sorry if they come out big.



I have a 10" wide, quick acting woodworking vise that I got from my dad. I
currently have it mounted on my workbench, but I am planning a bench upgrade
(better, flatter top) and I want to remount the vise to give me the maximum
benefit of its features.



As you can see in the pictures, I have attached maple the jaw faces. If you
will note, the moving jaw has a lip on the top that extends full width and
stands proud of the top by about 5/16". The thickness of the lip is about
half the jaw thickness.



Currently, I have the vise mounted so the lip extends above the plane of my
workbench top. I have also drilled a set of dog holes opposite the vise
with the thinking that I can use the vise in combination with dogs to clamp
larger pieces to the bench top. This works OK although the 5/16" lip doesn't
have all that much of a grab face. The down side of this set-up is that if
I'm moving pieces around on my bench and they stick out over the sides, they
invariably hit the vise lip and I mar the piece.



I would like, therefore, to solicit from the collected wisdom of this group
with the following questions:



1. Have you ever seen a vise like this before? How was it mounted
relative to the workbench top?



2. Would you recommend I mount this vise to continue to use the lip with
the dogs or do you feel I should mount it lower to get the lip out of the
way?



3. If I mount the vise lower, should I retain the current maple jaw liners
or should I make a set that would extend up to the bench top, perhaps
routing away part of the wood so it tucks up against the lip?



4. Are there any other mounting/use options I have overlooked?



As I said, I got this vise from my dad. I imagine I could probably find a
better one, but I want to keep this vise (and al the tools I inherited) as
working tools that are part of what I create in my shop.



Thanks for your input,



Bill Leonhardt



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Some suggestions

Make the sacrificial jaws from a wood softer or as soft as the
wood you work with. Better to dent the jaws than a part you're
working on.

Put a slight slope of both sacrificial jaws so they angle towards
each other. If you start with the jaws like this |____|, when you
apply clamping pressure they'll want to do this \____/. But if
you start out like this /____\ (exaggerated of course) then when
you apply pressure you'll get this |____|. For jaws this height you
could run the boards through a planer, with maybe two playing cards
thickness shims under one edge. Doesn't take much slant but having
some helps - since this kind of vise seems to always have some
slop in the mechanism.

Notch the bench top so the inside - plus a sacriifical jaw - come
out with the face of the inside jaw flush with the front of the bench
so you can clamp horizontal parts to the bench apron.

I'd skip going with dogholes in the outside jaw and go with some kind
of end vise (the Veritas Twin Screw is great - for all kinds of holding
tasks).

If you build another bench - get ALL the vises and hardware - BEFORE
starting the design. "Adapting" later can be a nightmare in the making.

charlie b