Jim,

Thanks for the input. I have been thinking much along the same lines. On
the one hand I could use rectangular steel dogs and, with the appropriate
dados in the pad, have the dogs bear directly against the jaw. If I use
round dogs, then perhaps it would be better to have the jaws extend more to
the side and have the round hole beside the jaw.

I like your suggestion about reinforcing the screw attachments. I
mistakenly thought at first that all the force would be pushing the pad
against the jaw but, with the dog, it will be against the jaw on top but
away from the jaw on the bottom. Reinforcing the screw attachments seems
prudient.

Thanks again,
Bill


"Jim Hall" wrote in message
. ..
If you're willing to give up a little jaw opening width. You can make a
wider wood pad for the adjustable jaw and with a dado blade cut a dado or
two in the pad so that when you attach it to the jaw with the dado(s)
facing the jaw you end up with square hole(s) for benchdog(s). If you're
worried about the wood screws not holding the pad with the added pressure
of the benchdogs, you could counter sink some holes in the face of the pad
for nuts and attach the pad with machine threaded screws rather than wood
screws. If you use round benchdogs you can drill holes down through the
pad instead of dadoing. That might allow you to mount the vice low enough
on your new bench to eliminate the problem you're having.


"No name" wrote in message
...
Dear Rec,



I have attached three pictures to illustrate my questions. I think I
have made them small enough for easy download, but I can't be sure until
after I post them, so..sorry if they come out big.



I have a 10" wide, quick acting woodworking vise that I got from my dad.
I currently have it mounted on my workbench, but I am planning a bench
upgrade (better, flatter top) and I want to remount the vise to give me
the maximum benefit of its features.



As you can see in the pictures, I have attached maple the jaw faces. If
you will note, the moving jaw has a lip on the top that extends full
width and stands proud of the top by about 5/16". The thickness of the
lip is about half the jaw thickness.



Currently, I have the vise mounted so the lip extends above the plane of
my workbench top. I have also drilled a set of dog holes opposite the
vise with the thinking that I can use the vise in combination with dogs
to clamp larger pieces to the bench top. This works OK although the
5/16" lip doesn't have all that much of a grab face. The down side of
this set-up is that if I'm moving pieces around on my bench and they
stick out over the sides, they invariably hit the vise lip and I mar the
piece.



I would like, therefore, to solicit from the collected wisdom of this
group with the following questions:



1. Have you ever seen a vise like this before? How was it mounted
relative to the workbench top?



2. Would you recommend I mount this vise to continue to use the lip
with the dogs or do you feel I should mount it lower to get the lip out
of the way?



3. If I mount the vise lower, should I retain the current maple jaw
liners or should I make a set that would extend up to the bench top,
perhaps routing away part of the wood so it tucks up against the lip?



4. Are there any other mounting/use options I have overlooked?



As I said, I got this vise from my dad. I imagine I could probably find
a better one, but I want to keep this vise (and al the tools I inherited)
as working tools that are part of what I create in my shop.



Thanks for your input,



Bill Leonhardt