"mac davis" wrote in message
...

That the factory wheel for this mod? The one on my 3000 would have to be
adapted to use 1/2" hose.

Never have used it, don't know if his first owner did either.

On Sat, 02 Feb 2008 10:23:40 GMT, "George" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .

That the factory wheel for this mod? The one on my 3000 would have to be
adapted to use 1/2" hose.

Never have used it, don't know if his first owner did either.

Not sure what you mean, George..

The handwheel, formally an option, is now included..

The vac attachment, pretty much a sealed bearing that fits inside the handwheel,
was a $35 option..

I find the handwheel sort of small and wimpy, so I'll make a corian outer wheel
with an inch or 2 more diameter for it..

Just what you're used to, I guess, but I like a big handwheel and use it for a
brake..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 02 Feb 2008 10:23:40 GMT, "George" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
. ..

That the factory wheel for this mod? The one on my 3000 would have to be
adapted to use 1/2" hose.

Never have used it, don't know if his first owner did either.

Not sure what you mean, George..

The handwheel, formally an option, is now included..

The vac attachment, pretty much a sealed bearing that fits inside the
handwheel,
was a $35 option..


That's the one I'd have to get, obviously. Wonder if they've been
consistent in their sizing so I could buy theirs? Might be as good to get
something that fits from a bearing shop?

I find the handwheel sort of small and wimpy, so I'll make a corian outer
wheel
with an inch or 2 more diameter for it..

Just what you're used to, I guess, but I like a big handwheel and use it
for a
brake..


Didn't have a handwheel on Ol' Blue, so never got into the habit (sort of
like dating nuns) of slowing by grabbing the 1" 8LH end. I stop by laying
the back of the tool up against the turning.

George wrote:
"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 02 Feb 2008 10:23:40 GMT, "George" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
...

That the factory wheel for this mod? The one on my 3000 would have to be
adapted to use 1/2" hose.

Never have used it, don't know if his first owner did either.

Not sure what you mean, George..

The handwheel, formally an option, is now included..

The vac attachment, pretty much a sealed bearing that fits inside the
handwheel,
was a $35 option..


That's the one I'd have to get, obviously. Wonder if they've been
consistent in their sizing so I could buy theirs? Might be as good to get
something that fits from a bearing shop?

I tried that. Bought a bearing that fit, and they swore it was a
sealed bearing, but air went through it like mulberries through a goose.

Broke down and bought the gizmo from Nova and it leaks very minimally.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

When you do a good deed, get a
receipt, in case heaven is like the IRS.

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
.. .
George wrote:
"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 02 Feb 2008 10:23:40 GMT, "George" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
m...

That the factory wheel for this mod? The one on my 3000 would have to
be
adapted to use 1/2" hose.

Never have used it, don't know if his first owner did either.

Not sure what you mean, George..

The handwheel, formally an option, is now included..

The vac attachment, pretty much a sealed bearing that fits inside the
handwheel,
was a $35 option..


That's the one I'd have to get, obviously. Wonder if they've been
consistent in their sizing so I could buy theirs? Might be as good to
get something that fits from a bearing shop?

I tried that. Bought a bearing that fit, and they swore it was a sealed
bearing, but air went through it like mulberries through a goose.

Broke down and bought the gizmo from Nova and it leaks very minimally.


'Nuff said. Thirty-five looking cheap if the size is right.

As to fouling the turf, you should see what a flock of turkeys can do to a
driveway. Almost no place for size twelves to find a clean path!

On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 13:33:43 GMT, "George" wrote:


That's the one I'd have to get, obviously. Wonder if they've been
consistent in their sizing so I could buy theirs? Might be as good to get
something that fits from a bearing shop?

Like Gerald said, it's a struggle..

On the 2 Jets, I made a corian handwheel "cover" with a hole for a "water pump
sealed bearing".. that was glues in with epoxy...
Them, I tapered and press fit a brass fitting that had threads on one end and a
hose barb on the other.. leaked quite a bit so I got a NEW bearing and it was
just as bad..
A friend said that the vanes or whatever in the bearings worked for water but
were not designed for air pressure or vacuum, suggested coating the bearing with
grease, which helped..

When I ordered the XP and saw that Nova wanted $35 for it's rotary valve, unlike
the $100 plus for other brands, I caved into the "path of least resistance"
thing..


Didn't have a handwheel on Ol' Blue, so never got into the habit (sort of
like dating nuns) of slowing by grabbing the 1" 8LH end. I stop by laying
the back of the tool up against the turning.

The XP is sort of hard to get used to in that respect, since it has no belt...
Not only takes a while to slow and stop, but feels like a "normal" lathe with a
broken belt..

Talk about a "DUH" moment... I guess I've got the habit of leaving the key in
the chuck while I'm putting the wood back on the table... No problem with the
Jet..
This one just rotates the spindle and dumps the key on the floor from the weight
of the chuck key.. I've only done it like 4 or 5 times so far..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 10:12:53 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:


I tried that. Bought a bearing that fit, and they swore it was a
sealed bearing, but air went through it like mulberries through a goose.

Broke down and bought the gizmo from Nova and it leaks very minimally.

Sometimes the leak is a good thing.. Bill Noble told me that if I got a really
tight system, I'd have to add a vacuum bleed or my pump would over heat..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 10:12:53 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:


I tried that. Bought a bearing that fit, and they swore it was a
sealed bearing, but air went through it like mulberries through a goose.

Broke down and bought the gizmo from Nova and it leaks very minimally.

Sometimes the leak is a good thing.. Bill Noble told me that if I got a really
tight system, I'd have to add a vacuum bleed or my pump would over heat..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I have an air bleed valve when I need it. On porous wood like
chinaberry I need all the vacuum I can get.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

When you do a good deed, get a
receipt, in case heaven is like the IRS.

mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 13:33:43 GMT, "George" wrote:


That's the one I'd have to get, obviously. Wonder if they've been
consistent in their sizing so I could buy theirs? Might be as good to get
something that fits from a bearing shop?

Like Gerald said, it's a struggle..

On the 2 Jets, I made a corian handwheel "cover" with a hole for a "water pump
sealed bearing".. that was glues in with epoxy...
Them, I tapered and press fit a brass fitting that had threads on one end and a
hose barb on the other.. leaked quite a bit so I got a NEW bearing and it was
just as bad..
A friend said that the vanes or whatever in the bearings worked for water but
were not designed for air pressure or vacuum, suggested coating the bearing with
grease, which helped..

When I ordered the XP and saw that Nova wanted $35 for it's rotary valve, unlike
the $100 plus for other brands, I caved into the "path of least resistance"
thing..


Didn't have a handwheel on Ol' Blue, so never got into the habit (sort of
like dating nuns) of slowing by grabbing the 1" 8LH end. I stop by laying
the back of the tool up against the turning.

The XP is sort of hard to get used to in that respect, since it has no belt...
Not only takes a while to slow and stop, but feels like a "normal" lathe with a
broken belt..

Talk about a "DUH" moment... I guess I've got the habit of leaving the key in
the chuck while I'm putting the wood back on the table... No problem with the
Jet..
This one just rotates the spindle and dumps the key on the floor from the weight
of the chuck key.. I've only done it like 4 or 5 times so far..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I had to change my habit also. Fortunately it has a sturdy spindle
lock. If I could only always remember to unlock it before pushing the
start button.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

When you do a good deed, get a
receipt, in case heaven is like the IRS.

On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 14:27:02 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:


I had to change my habit also. Fortunately it has a sturdy spindle
lock. If I could only always remember to unlock it before pushing the
start button.

I haven't tried it yet, but it's not supposed to start if the spindle lock is
on..

Really strange.. In one part of the manual, it says you can use the spindle lock
when unscrewing things like lathe chucks..
In another part of the manual, it says that the spindle lock is for indexing and
should NOT be used for any heavy use such as removing lathe chucks..

Just a little not-pick, but the Nova is the first lathe that I've used that
didn't have a knob on the end of the knock-out rod... Makes it hard to store..

I'm using the one from the Jet 1442.. works fine in the Nova, has a nice knob on
the end that lets you set it one of the extra mounting holes in the stand..
I used it today as a spindle lock.. dropped it through the hand wheel hole and
it rests against the head stock locking pin.. works great!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 14:22:48 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 10:12:53 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:


I tried that. Bought a bearing that fit, and they swore it was a
sealed bearing, but air went through it like mulberries through a goose.

Broke down and bought the gizmo from Nova and it leaks very minimally.

Sometimes the leak is a good thing.. Bill Noble told me that if I got a really
tight system, I'd have to add a vacuum bleed or my pump would over heat..


I have an air bleed valve when I need it. On porous wood like
chinaberry I need all the vacuum I can get.

I've had to use plastic freezer wrap on some woods.. vac went right through
them..
Really fun if you find out a crack wasn't sealed as well as you thought..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 14:27:02 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:


I had to change my habit also. Fortunately it has a sturdy spindle
lock. If I could only always remember to unlock it before pushing the
start button.

I haven't tried it yet, but it's not supposed to start if the spindle lock is
on..

Really strange.. In one part of the manual, it says you can use the spindle lock
when unscrewing things like lathe chucks..
In another part of the manual, it says that the spindle lock is for indexing and
should NOT be used for any heavy use such as removing lathe chucks..

Just a little not-pick, but the Nova is the first lathe that I've used that
didn't have a knob on the end of the knock-out rod... Makes it hard to store..

Mine has a walnut knob. One of my first modifications.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

When everything's coming your way,
you're in the wrong lane.

On Mon, 04 Feb 2008 04:25:45 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

mac davis wrote:

Just a little not-pick, but the Nova is the first lathe that I've used that
didn't have a knob on the end of the knock-out rod... Makes it hard to store..

Mine has a walnut knob. One of my first modifications.

Did you epoxy it on.. I was considering that..
Then again, the rod seems a tad hefty for my use and the one from the Jet is
handy..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 04 Feb 2008 04:25:45 -0500, Gerald Ross
wrote:

mac davis wrote:

Just a little not-pick, but the Nova is the first lathe that I've used
that
didn't have a knob on the end of the knock-out rod... Makes it hard to
store..

Mine has a walnut knob. One of my first modifications.

Did you epoxy it on.. I was considering that..
Then again, the rod seems a tad hefty for my use and the one from the Jet
is
handy..

The reason the rod has no knob is so that you can forget it easily and than
wonder what the H*ll is making that clanking noise when you start up the
lathe.

On Mon, 04 Feb 2008 21:52:29 GMT, "George" wrote:


The reason the rod has no knob is so that you can forget it easily and than
wonder what the H*ll is making that clanking noise when you start up the
lathe.

Too easy, George... I've done that on the Jet 1442 and Mini and the rod has a
knob on the end..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing