Group,
This was my second project after retiring. The tall end cabinet boxes
had to be assembled and glued upright in the room that they were to be
installed because I wanted them to go up to the ceiling so the crown
molding would cover the gap. I did not want a 5 inch gap at the top or
split them up to a bottom and top cabinet. Using right triangle math
to determine the hypotenuse of the box (Z = the square root of A
squared + B squared). Darn I knew that that formula would come in
handy some day. If I built the boxes first and tipped them up, the gap
at the top would have been to wide, didn't want to use a filler board
either. Boy I sure can be picky, Huh? A pest too.
I used minwax waterbase conditioner, white wash sprayed on and hand
rubbed until I got the opaqueness that I wanted. Then I sprayed 3
coats of polyacrylic finish sanding between each coat.
Bending the wood for the side shelves was a learning experience, boy
howdy.
I used a 5 foot piece of 3inch black a ABS, cut the 8 foot section of
trim in half, put them inside of the ABS, put some boiling water
inside sealed the ends with end caps and let it sit in the sun for 3
hours or so. Even after that it was hard to bend. Wouldn't have been
able to do it with out splitting the wood if the pieces were shorter
that 4 foot long. The extra length gave me some time to slowly bend
from the ends. I clamped the heck out 'em and waited over night before
gluing. Took two days for the glue to set up because of the damp wood.
The shelves have a piece of crystal white marble inlaid for the top.
The marble was left over from the kitchen stonework I did a few years
back.
Would you all like to see a few pics of the stone work I did in my
kitchen?
U-all take care.
Fran

Sorry one pic got in that was almost a meg in size. This is a repost
resized.
U all have a good evnin'
Fran
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 18:52:47 -0700, ghost wrote:


Group,
This was my second project after retiring. The tall end cabinet boxes
had to be assembled and glued upright in the room that they were to be
installed because I wanted them to go up to the ceiling so the crown
molding would cover the gap. I did not want a 5 inch gap at the top or
split them up to a bottom and top cabinet. Using right triangle math
to determine the hypotenuse of the box (Z = the square root of A
squared + B squared). Darn I knew that that formula would come in
handy some day. If I built the boxes first and tipped them up, the gap
at the top would have been to wide, didn't want to use a filler board
either. Boy I sure can be picky, Huh? A pest too.
I used minwax waterbase conditioner, white wash sprayed on and hand
rubbed until I got the opaqueness that I wanted. Then I sprayed 3
coats of polyacrylic finish sanding between each coat.
Bending the wood for the side shelves was a learning experience, boy
howdy.
I used a 5 foot piece of 3inch black a ABS, cut the 8 foot section of
trim in half, put them inside of the ABS, put some boiling water
inside sealed the ends with end caps and let it sit in the sun for 3
hours or so. Even after that it was hard to bend. Wouldn't have been
able to do it with out splitting the wood if the pieces were shorter
that 4 foot long. The extra length gave me some time to slowly bend
from the ends. I clamped the heck out 'em and waited over night before
gluing. Took two days for the glue to set up because of the damp wood.
The shelves have a piece of crystal white marble inlaid for the top.
The marble was left over from the kitchen stonework I did a few years
back.
Would you all like to see a few pics of the stone work I did in my
kitchen?
U-all take care.
Fran

Great work! I admire your gumption starting out with such large projects!
Keep up the great work!

I had to laugh with you on getting your cabinets upright. At least you
thought of it before I did. I had kitchen cabinets built by an Amish cabinet
maker, a week before picking them up I realized that there was going to be a
problem setting up the pantry cabinet which was the full height of the
kitchen less about 1/2 inch. I told the cabinet maker my problem. Simple
solution was cut off the "leg on the side that would not be seen (the
portion of the side below the bottom shelf), Lay that side on the floor and
rotate up. I had about 1/8 inch to spare but I didn't have to cut a hole in
the ceiling!

Lance

"ghost" wrote in message
...

Group,
This was my second project after retiring. The tall end cabinet boxes
had to be assembled and glued upright in the room that they were to be
installed because I wanted them to go up to the ceiling so the crown
molding would cover the gap. I did not want a 5 inch gap at the top or
split them up to a bottom and top cabinet. Using right triangle math
to determine the hypotenuse of the box (Z = the square root of A
squared + B squared). Darn I knew that that formula would come in
handy some day. If I built the boxes first and tipped them up, the gap
at the top would have been to wide, didn't want to use a filler board
either. Boy I sure can be picky, Huh? A pest too.
I used minwax waterbase conditioner, white wash sprayed on and hand
rubbed until I got the opaqueness that I wanted. Then I sprayed 3
coats of polyacrylic finish sanding between each coat.
Bending the wood for the side shelves was a learning experience, boy
howdy.
I used a 5 foot piece of 3inch black a ABS, cut the 8 foot section of
trim in half, put them inside of the ABS, put some boiling water
inside sealed the ends with end caps and let it sit in the sun for 3
hours or so. Even after that it was hard to bend. Wouldn't have been
able to do it with out splitting the wood if the pieces were shorter
that 4 foot long. The extra length gave me some time to slowly bend
from the ends. I clamped the heck out 'em and waited over night before
gluing. Took two days for the glue to set up because of the damp wood.
The shelves have a piece of crystal white marble inlaid for the top.
The marble was left over from the kitchen stonework I did a few years
back.
Would you all like to see a few pics of the stone work I did in my
kitchen?
U-all take care.
Fran

Thanks for the compliment Lance.
I am glad to hear that you figured a workaround regarding the cabinet
tilt up problem other than cutting a hole in the ceiling.
The hardest part of that project was to figure out all the finish
dimensions.
I am very process oriented having been an electronics technician and
developing process flow-chart diagrams for troubleshooting complex
aerospace electronic systems.
I just commit to do something no matter how long it takes to get the
desired results. I have made lots of sawdust and scrap wood to prove
that.
I admire people that just keep plugging towards a goal no matter the
circumstances or hardships that may get in the way.
Take care Lance.
Francis


On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 06:33:19 -0400, "Lance"
wrote:

Great work! I admire your gumption starting out with such large projects!
Keep up the great work!

I had to laugh with you on getting your cabinets upright. At least you
thought of it before I did. I had kitchen cabinets built by an Amish cabinet
maker, a week before picking them up I realized that there was going to be a
problem setting up the pantry cabinet which was the full height of the
kitchen less about 1/2 inch. I told the cabinet maker my problem. Simple
solution was cut off the "leg on the side that would not be seen (the
portion of the side below the bottom shelf), Lay that side on the floor and
rotate up. I had about 1/8 inch to spare but I didn't have to cut a hole in
the ceiling!

Lance

"ghost" wrote in message
.. .

Group,
This was my second project after retiring. The tall end cabinet boxes
had to be assembled and glued upright in the room that they were to be
installed because I wanted them to go up to the ceiling so the crown
molding would cover the gap. I did not want a 5 inch gap at the top or
split them up to a bottom and top cabinet. Using right triangle math
to determine the hypotenuse of the box (Z = the square root of A
squared + B squared). Darn I knew that that formula would come in
handy some day. If I built the boxes first and tipped them up, the gap
at the top would have been to wide, didn't want to use a filler board
either. Boy I sure can be picky, Huh? A pest too.
I used minwax waterbase conditioner, white wash sprayed on and hand
rubbed until I got the opaqueness that I wanted. Then I sprayed 3
coats of polyacrylic finish sanding between each coat.
Bending the wood for the side shelves was a learning experience, boy
howdy.
I used a 5 foot piece of 3inch black a ABS, cut the 8 foot section of
trim in half, put them inside of the ABS, put some boiling water
inside sealed the ends with end caps and let it sit in the sun for 3
hours or so. Even after that it was hard to bend. Wouldn't have been
able to do it with out splitting the wood if the pieces were shorter
that 4 foot long. The extra length gave me some time to slowly bend
from the ends. I clamped the heck out 'em and waited over night before
gluing. Took two days for the glue to set up because of the damp wood.
The shelves have a piece of crystal white marble inlaid for the top.
The marble was left over from the kitchen stonework I did a few years
back.
Would you all like to see a few pics of the stone work I did in my
kitchen?
U-all take care.
Fran