A friend likes my goblet "style" and wants a set of 8.. says that they don't
have to be the same size, color or exact shape, which is my kind of
precision..*g*

My concern is that he wants to actually use them for serving drinks, and the few
"food safe" finishes I've seen are for food, not alcohol..

The goblets will be plum with a cherry stain, assuming that I can find a topcoat
that is safe and the stain won't be a problem.. if I have to, I can go without
stain, but the plum looks really rich with the cherry stain..

Anyone have idea/links/info???

thanks,


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Lee Valley has "Tried and True" Danish Oil - which is a polymerized
Linseed oil. - Non-Toxic - unless you drink it I presume.

Not sure if that would do the trick... Not sure I want to test for you
either. LOL.



mac davis wrote:
A friend likes my goblet "style" and wants a set of 8.. says that they don't
have to be the same size, color or exact shape, which is my kind of
precision..*g*

My concern is that he wants to actually use them for serving drinks, and the few
"food safe" finishes I've seen are for food, not alcohol..

The goblets will be plum with a cherry stain, assuming that I can find a topcoat
that is safe and the stain won't be a problem.. if I have to, I can go without
stain, but the plum looks really rich with the cherry stain..

Anyone have idea/links/info???

thanks,


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

Greetings and Salutations....

On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 08:55:43 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

A friend likes my goblet "style" and wants a set of 8.. says that they don't
have to be the same size, color or exact shape, which is my kind of
precision..*g*

My concern is that he wants to actually use them for serving drinks, and the few
"food safe" finishes I've seen are for food, not alcohol..

The goblets will be plum with a cherry stain, assuming that I can find a topcoat
that is safe and the stain won't be a problem.. if I have to, I can go without
stain, but the plum looks really rich with the cherry stain..

Anyone have idea/links/info???


Well, I know that SOME folks use an epoxy based finish on the
insides of their goblets, which provides a "food safe" finish that
is pretty resistant to wear and damage. I would NOT stain the inner
surfaces of the goblet, though, simply because alcohol is good at
leaching out colors, etc, which could be a problem.
One thing that might work well...and just occurred to me...
would be to seal the inner surfaces of the goblet. It works great
on pens that I turn, providing a good, solid finish that is very
long wearing. It is also untouched by alcohol, so would not
run the risk of deteriorating under use.
Regards
Dave Mundt

Mac, another of my non-answers; your friend may prefer drinking from
wooden goblets, but likely his/her seven guests won't. Many things from
the 'good ole days' are for show and not for blow these days. My
experience is that wooden cups, goblets, dishes, even wine stoppers will
be proudly displayed after maybe one use and the drinks and food served
in glass or ceramic thereafter. Chargers, mate cups, salad and wassail
bowls are traditional exceptions. This is a woodturner's ng, so other's
will differ and answer your question.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 12:07:49 -0500, Will wrote:

Lee Valley has "Tried and True" Danish Oil - which is a polymerized
Linseed oil. - Non-Toxic - unless you drink it I presume.

Not sure if that would do the trick... Not sure I want to test for you
either. LOL.

me either, Will..lol
I use Danish Oil on a lot of bowls.. never thought of it as food safe, though..



mac davis wrote:
A friend likes my goblet "style" and wants a set of 8.. says that they don't
have to be the same size, color or exact shape, which is my kind of
precision..*g*

My concern is that he wants to actually use them for serving drinks, and the few
"food safe" finishes I've seen are for food, not alcohol..

The goblets will be plum with a cherry stain, assuming that I can find a topcoat
that is safe and the stain won't be a problem.. if I have to, I can go without
stain, but the plum looks really rich with the cherry stain..

Anyone have idea/links/info???

thanks,


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 17:51:01 GMT, (Dave Mundt) wrote:

Greetings and Salutations....

On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 08:55:43 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

A friend likes my goblet "style" and wants a set of 8.. says that they don't
have to be the same size, color or exact shape, which is my kind of
precision..*g*

My concern is that he wants to actually use them for serving drinks, and the few
"food safe" finishes I've seen are for food, not alcohol..

The goblets will be plum with a cherry stain, assuming that I can find a topcoat
that is safe and the stain won't be a problem.. if I have to, I can go without
stain, but the plum looks really rich with the cherry stain..

Anyone have idea/links/info???


Well, I know that SOME folks use an epoxy based finish on the
insides of their goblets, which provides a "food safe" finish that
is pretty resistant to wear and damage. I would NOT stain the inner
surfaces of the goblet, though, simply because alcohol is good at
leaching out colors, etc, which could be a problem.
One thing that might work well...and just occurred to me...
would be to seal the inner surfaces of the goblet. It works great
on pens that I turn, providing a good, solid finish that is very
long wearing. It is also untouched by alcohol, so would not
run the risk of deteriorating under use.
Regards
Dave Mundt

Dave.. my object IS to seal the inside.. what do you use for sealer??



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 1 Mar 2005 14:21:11 -0500, (Arch) wrote:

Mac, another of my non-answers; your friend may prefer drinking from
wooden goblets, but likely his/her seven guests won't. Many things from
the 'good ole days' are for show and not for blow these days. My
experience is that wooden cups, goblets, dishes, even wine stoppers will
be proudly displayed after maybe one use and the drinks and food served
in glass or ceramic thereafter. Chargers, mate cups, salad and wassail
bowls are traditional exceptions. This is a woodturner's ng, so other's
will differ and answer your question.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

my feelings exactly, Arch.. more for display than use...

I can see them on a back lit bar, or on a shelf with tooth picks and stuff in
them, but I'll be the first to admit that I've never been tempted to drink (or
eat) out of anything I've turned..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 12:07:49 -0500, Will wrote:


Lee Valley has "Tried and True" Danish Oil - which is a polymerized
Linseed oil. - Non-Toxic - unless you drink it I presume.

Not sure if that would do the trick... Not sure I want to test for you
either. LOL.


me either, Will..lol
I use Danish Oil on a lot of bowls.. never thought of it as food safe, though..


** NOTE ** I quoted a PARTICULAR brand touted as NON-TOXIC!!!!!

Just want to be sure that everyone notices and that LV takes the hit if
the info is not correct. There's always a first time...


mac davis wrote:

A friend likes my goblet "style" and wants a set of 8.. says that they don't
have to be the same size, color or exact shape, which is my kind of
precision..*g*

My concern is that he wants to actually use them for serving drinks, and the few
"food safe" finishes I've seen are for food, not alcohol..

The goblets will be plum with a cherry stain, assuming that I can find a topcoat
that is safe and the stain won't be a problem.. if I have to, I can go without
stain, but the plum looks really rich with the cherry stain..

Anyone have idea/links/info???



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

mac

The reason I was able to come up with the brand of DO so fast is that I
just bought some from LV to use on the bowls I was going to turn -- even
though SWMBO did not yet know she was buying the lathe for _us_. LOL

I like to plan ahead. blushes modestly

So it is waiting for first use this next week (or so...) since we will
be getting some wood to turn. (As soon as she recognizes how we will
spend our free time in the next few days. :-) )



Will wrote:


mac davis wrote:

On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 12:07:49 -0500, Will
wrote:


Lee Valley has "Tried and True" Danish Oil - which is a polymerized
Linseed oil. - Non-Toxic - unless you drink it I presume.

Not sure if that would do the trick... Not sure I want to test for
you either. LOL.


me either, Will..lol
I use Danish Oil on a lot of bowls.. never thought of it as food safe,
though..



** NOTE ** I quoted a PARTICULAR brand touted as NON-TOXIC!!!!!

Just want to be sure that everyone notices and that LV takes the hit if
the info is not correct. There's always a first time...


mac davis wrote:

A friend likes my goblet "style" and wants a set of 8.. says that
they don't
have to be the same size, color or exact shape, which is my kind of
precision..*g*

My concern is that he wants to actually use them for serving drinks,
and the few
"food safe" finishes I've seen are for food, not alcohol..

The goblets will be plum with a cherry stain, assuming that I can
find a topcoat
that is safe and the stain won't be a problem.. if I have to, I can
go without
stain, but the plum looks really rich with the cherry stain..

Anyone have idea/links/info???




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing



--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

I made a shaving mug out of Canarywood and finished it with epoxy. I use it
every day it gets plenty wet and look great on the counter with a matching
Canarywood brush. I also have a coffee cup made from an unknown hardwood. I
soaked it with a varnish and hung it to dry. I sanded it with 320 later and
use it often. No the varnish wasn't "food safe" but I was going to use it.
Any small amount of something that may possibly leach out over the years I
have been using it don't worry me.

Making something for sale or as a gift I would be hesitant to use the
varnish as it did leave a slight slick on the surface for a while.

-Andy

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 1 Mar 2005 14:21:11 -0500, (Arch) wrote:

Mac, another of my non-answers; your friend may prefer drinking from
wooden goblets, but likely his/her seven guests won't. Many things from
the 'good ole days' are for show and not for blow these days. My
experience is that wooden cups, goblets, dishes, even wine stoppers will
be proudly displayed after maybe one use and the drinks and food served
in glass or ceramic thereafter. Chargers, mate cups, salad and wassail
bowls are traditional exceptions. This is a woodturner's ng, so other's
will differ and answer your question.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

my feelings exactly, Arch.. more for display than use...

I can see them on a back lit bar, or on a shelf with tooth picks and stuff
in
them, but I'll be the first to admit that I've never been tempted to drink
(or
eat) out of anything I've turned..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I've made several sets of Wedding Goblets for my kids as they've tied the
knot, and did quite a bit of research on finishes that would hold up to
alcohol. Seems like most agree that many finishes are "food safe" after
fully cured. What I ended up using was a thinned polyurethane (1/3 mineral
spirits to 2/3 Minwax gloss poly). Several coats applied 4 - 6 hours apart,
and left to cure for 30 days or so after the final coat. The goblets were
used at the weddings, and infrequently afterwards for several years. So far,
all my kids, and their spuoses are still healthy, their kids seem about as
normal as can be expected, and the goblets still have their original finish
after lots of hand washings.

Will wrote in news:Og7Vd.26249$Vf6.775794
@news20.bellglobal.com:

snippage

I've used Tried & True on a lot of flatwork projects. It's good stuff. I
am dubious about its use on stemware, however.

Typical Danish Oil with heavy metal driers is NOT something I'll be using
on potential food containers. YMMV.

Patriarch

No heavy metal driers...

As noted - as chosen specifically for non-toxic properties. At least
that's what the can and literature says.


Patriarch wrote:
Will wrote in news:Og7Vd.26249$Vf6.775794
@news20.bellglobal.com:

snippage

I've used Tried & True on a lot of flatwork projects. It's good stuff. I
am dubious about its use on stemware, however.

Typical Danish Oil with heavy metal driers is NOT something I'll be using
on potential food containers. YMMV.

Patriarch

--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

"Ron Kolakowski" wrote in message
...
I've made several sets of Wedding Goblets for my kids as they've tied the
knot, and did quite a bit of research on finishes that would hold up to
alcohol. Seems like most agree that many finishes are "food safe" after
fully cured. What I ended up using was a thinned polyurethane (1/3 mineral
spirits to 2/3 Minwax gloss poly). Several coats applied 4 - 6 hours
apart,
and left to cure for 30 days or so after the final coat. The goblets were
used at the weddings, and infrequently afterwards for several years. So
far,
all my kids, and their spuoses are still healthy, their kids seem about as
normal as can be expected, and the goblets still have their original
finish
after lots of hand washings.


BINGO!

If you have the time, soak the things in a thinned poly before the surface
coats. If you can't digest the plastic, you can't get to the bound
siccative, though you'll never convince some people of that.

"Hand washing" is a good follow-on. The danger from one unwashed or poorly
washed hand after touring your favorite "save the wolves" exhibit is greater
than you'll ever experience from cured polyurethane.

On Tue, 01 Mar 2005 18:54:41 -0500, Will wrote:

mac

The reason I was able to come up with the brand of DO so fast is that I
just bought some from LV to use on the bowls I was going to turn -- even
though SWMBO did not yet know she was buying the lathe for _us_. LOL

I like to plan ahead. blushes modestly

So it is waiting for first use this next week (or so...) since we will
be getting some wood to turn. (As soon as she recognizes how we will
spend our free time in the next few days. :-) )


That sounds familiar... my wife brought home a 1/4 cord of plum branch wood the
other night.. lol



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 1 Mar 2005 19:40:28 -0700, "Ron Kolakowski" wrote:

I've made several sets of Wedding Goblets for my kids as they've tied the
knot, and did quite a bit of research on finishes that would hold up to
alcohol. Seems like most agree that many finishes are "food safe" after
fully cured. What I ended up using was a thinned polyurethane (1/3 mineral
spirits to 2/3 Minwax gloss poly). Several coats applied 4 - 6 hours apart,
and left to cure for 30 days or so after the final coat. The goblets were
used at the weddings, and infrequently afterwards for several years. So far,
all my kids, and their spuoses are still healthy, their kids seem about as
normal as can be expected, and the goblets still have their original finish
after lots of hand washings.

Great to have a little experience with it, Ron.. thanks..

Did you thin "regular" minwax poly to kind of make your own rubbing poly, or
thin the rubbing poly?



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 07:58:06 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


"Ron Kolakowski" wrote in message
...
I've made several sets of Wedding Goblets for my kids as they've tied the
knot, and did quite a bit of research on finishes that would hold up to
alcohol. Seems like most agree that many finishes are "food safe" after
fully cured. What I ended up using was a thinned polyurethane (1/3 mineral
spirits to 2/3 Minwax gloss poly). Several coats applied 4 - 6 hours
apart,
and left to cure for 30 days or so after the final coat. The goblets were
used at the weddings, and infrequently afterwards for several years. So
far,
all my kids, and their spuoses are still healthy, their kids seem about as
normal as can be expected, and the goblets still have their original
finish
after lots of hand washings.


BINGO!

If you have the time, soak the things in a thinned poly before the surface
coats. If you can't digest the plastic, you can't get to the bound
siccative, though you'll never convince some people of that.

"Hand washing" is a good follow-on. The danger from one unwashed or poorly
washed hand after touring your favorite "save the wolves" exhibit is greater
than you'll ever experience from cured polyurethane.


cool! I printed out your reply with Ron's answer for the wife....
Her favorite topcoat is rubbing poly, so she'll appreciate it!



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Will wrote in
:

No heavy metal driers...

As noted - as chosen specifically for non-toxic properties. At least
that's what the can and literature says.

Specifically, that's one major reason I use it.

Patriarch

Glad to help, Mac. I just thinned regular Minwax Polyurethane (oil based),
since that's what I had on hand. After the first set, I did more
nvestigation, and on subsequent goblets I followed the process recommended
by George. I applied the first coat on the inside by pouring in a quantity
of the thinned poly and sloshing it around for several minutes, then poured
out the excess. I let things dry overnight before putting the additional
coats on.