"Keith Young" wrote in message
...
After filling cracks with Ca, the surrounding wood becomes saturated also.
Anybody have a solution. Maybe coating the area around the crack with
something that can be easily be removed later.


Of course, the best thing to do is to run CA into the crack before you take
the final passes with gouge or paper. The capillary draw into the crack
will be much greater than the draw into the grain of the wood, especially if
the wood is cool. You can also help your cause by spritzing the accelerator
on the area prior to using the CA. More rapid cure will keep the
penetration low on the surface, while still allowing good capillary draw.
It also helps to spritz the opposite side so you won't have problems with
leakage when you start spinning again.

I use the Hot Stuff from Lee Valley although there are other sources for CA
around. LV also has the accelerator and the solvent. The solvent comes in
real handy when you find your fingers stuck to the bowl. Not a great
experience even though it gives your wife hour's of enjoyment relating the
tale at parties.

CA comes in various "thicknesses". The usual stuff you see is thin but there
is a medium and thick as well which can be handy.
Billh

"Keith Young" wrote in message
...
Thanks George

Is there a preferred Ca. I am using the $ store stuff. Also I wasn,t aware
that there was an accelerator .
Please elaborate.

Thanks
Keith
"George" george@least wrote in message
...
"Keith Young" wrote in message
...
After filling cracks with Ca, the surrounding wood becomes saturated
also.
Anybody have a solution. Maybe coating the area around the crack with
something that can be easily be removed later.


Of course, the best thing to do is to run CA into the crack before you
take
the final passes with gouge or paper. The capillary draw into the crack
will be much greater than the draw into the grain of the wood, especially
if
the wood is cool. You can also help your cause by spritzing the
accelerator
on the area prior to using the CA. More rapid cure will keep the
penetration low on the surface, while still allowing good capillary draw.
It also helps to spritz the opposite side so you won't have problems with
leakage when you start spinning again.

"Keith Young" wrote in message
...

Is there a preferred Ca. I am using the $ store stuff. Also I wasn,t aware
that there was an accelerator .
Please elaborate.

Don't know if any are preferred. I've used four or five varieties, and
aside from one with a decided mothballs smell to it, they all seem the same.
Order from the place where you're already paying a shipping charge, unless
someone knows some really hot deals or great stuff. Difference is less than
a buck Cdn ($1.28 US - couldn't resist) from the best to the worst price.
Lee Valley, where my entire tool allowance is spent, carries it, I know.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...&ccurrenc y=1

I keep medium weight for actually gluing things together, like caps on
ornaments, and water thin for cracks which are only optically significant,
or for the bottoms of those larger I will be filling with other things like
dust and medium consistency. It's also a great adjunct to your chuck, as
you can run it into the end grain portion of the tenon or recess to help
prevent splits if you get a catch. The accelerant works for both.

Oh yes, get a bottle of the debonder and mount it near the switch to the
lathe where you can get to it on the off chance you use CA a bit carelessly
and find yourself attached to something larger than you. Good insurance, as
it's almost instantaneous in debonding.

The accelerator is a great help on acid woods, too, where it can take a long
time to get a cure. Some claim a weaker bond, but I've not noticed it.

On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 11:15:21 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


"Keith Young" wrote in message
...

Is there a preferred Ca. I am using the $ store stuff. Also I wasn,t aware
that there was an accelerator .
Please elaborate.

Don't know if any are preferred. I've used four or five varieties, and
aside from one with a decided mothballs smell to it, they all seem the same.
Order from the place where you're already paying a shipping charge, unless
someone knows some really hot deals or great stuff. Difference is less than
a buck Cdn ($1.28 US - couldn't resist) from the best to the worst price.
Lee Valley, where my entire tool allowance is spent, carries it, I know.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...&ccurrenc y=1

I keep medium weight for actually gluing things together, like caps on
ornaments, and water thin for cracks which are only optically significant,
or for the bottoms of those larger I will be filling with other things like
dust and medium consistency. It's also a great adjunct to your chuck, as
you can run it into the end grain portion of the tenon or recess to help
prevent splits if you get a catch. The accelerant works for both.

Oh yes, get a bottle of the debonder and mount it near the switch to the
lathe where you can get to it on the off chance you use CA a bit carelessly
and find yourself attached to something larger than you. Good insurance, as
it's almost instantaneous in debonding.

The accelerator is a great help on acid woods, too, where it can take a long
time to get a cure. Some claim a weaker bond, but I've not noticed it.


just as long as you don't glue yourself to the lathe switch while
reaching for the "antidote".. *g*



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

see tips sectoin of www.woodturners.org, look for CA finish


"Jgklr2732" wrote in message
...
Coat the area surrounding the crack with sanding sealer before applying
CA.
Than sand it away so the finish won't blotch.

Anonymous wrote:
How can I extend (not shorten) the set time for CA? I am using it to
repair cracks in cross-sawn cherry and to stabilize the un-cracked
portions as well.

It occurs to me that if I could get it to stay liquid longer, I'd get
better penetration and that could be (as my friend Martha used to
say) "a good thing".

Bill


To get better penetration, use a thinner CA--they come in different
consistencies.

You should read what Russ Fairfield has to say about CA:

http://www.woodcentral.com./russ/russ6.shtml

I've decided that CA is not a good thing to use for projects I place any
value on and want to last a long time without falling apart.

Ken Grunke

--
take da "ma" offa dot com fer eemayl

Hi Bill

I have an article on stabilizing pen blanks and could send it to you if
you can send me your e-mail address.
Yes I forget where I got it, so I cannot tell you where to look for it.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Anonymous wrote:

I am already using thin CA straight from the bottle. I was / am hoping
someone knows how to thin it without losing too much strength so that I
might have a reasonable assurance that its hardening properties extend all
the way down to the brass tube of a pen. I have plenty of accelerator,
perhaps someone knows of a retardant?

Bill

"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2005.01.10.22.40.31.66667@notarealserver. com...
I read what Russ has to say and I agree that CA has no place in segmented
/ larger turnings. However, even Russ agrees that it is suitable for
hardening spalted / soft woods and that is my current concern.

I am already using thin CA straight from the bottle. I was / am hoping
someone knows how to thin it without losing too much strength so that I
might have a reasonable assurance that its hardening properties extend all
the way down to the brass tube of a pen. I have plenty of accelerator,
perhaps someone knows of a retardant?


You're sort of fighting nature here. Wood is made to move water along the
grain, not across it. The stomata which allow movement across the grain are
small, and have a tendency to close with loss of cytoplasm. You'd stand a
better chance of getting what you want by feeding fluid into the end grain
of the pen. Might even use heat or a vacuum to help.

As to slowing the cure, acid woods like oak and cherry do it, and the
accelerant supplies OH(-) ions, as does the moisture that cures it. So get
something to provide an excess of H(+) and see what happens.

When I want CA glue to penetrate, I do one of two things. I will prime
the crack with thin glue, and then chase that with a bead of the
thicker glue. The thin glue wicks the thicker stuff down into the
crack, and the thick glue sets up slower. The other thing I do is to
mix some of the thick and thin together. The mix penetrates well, but
must sit level for a while so it can soak in. It also may take a couple
of applications before the crack is full. Top off with fine saw dust.
robo hippy














George wrote:
"Anonymous" wrote in message
newsan.2005.01.10.22.40.31.66667@notarealserver. com...
I read what Russ has to say and I agree that CA has no place in
segmented
/ larger turnings. However, even Russ agrees that it is suitable
for
hardening spalted / soft woods and that is my current concern.

I am already using thin CA straight from the bottle. I was / am
hoping
someone knows how to thin it without losing too much strength so
that I
might have a reasonable assurance that its hardening properties
extend all
the way down to the brass tube of a pen. I have plenty of
accelerator,
perhaps someone knows of a retardant?


You're sort of fighting nature here. Wood is made to move water
along the
grain, not across it. The stomata which allow movement across the
grain are
small, and have a tendency to close with loss of cytoplasm. You'd
stand a
better chance of getting what you want by feeding fluid into the end
grain
of the pen. Might even use heat or a vacuum to help.

As to slowing the cure, acid woods like oak and cherry do it, and the
accelerant supplies OH(-) ions, as does the moisture that cures it.
So get
something to provide an excess of H(+) and see what happens.