Hi group:
What success have you people had using the normal household furnace
ducting for a mainline. I know I would have to duct-tape the joint on
the whole length??????????????

Jow

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Part of my system uses 30ga ducting. Works fine!

"golf" wrote in message
news
Hi group:
What success have you people had using the normal household furnace
ducting for a mainline. I know I would have to duct-tape the joint on
the whole length??????????????

Jow

-- Remove par from email address for replying

I have heard of some saying their system can collapse the thin stuff if all
their gates are closed but I have my doubts unless their system is extremely
tight and have some damaged duct (badly flattened). If you think you are
approaching this situation just bleed a bit of air - yeah, I know that isn't
the idea but life isn't perfect at least on the cheap.
Billh

"golf" wrote in message
news
Hi group:
What success have you people had using the normal household furnace
ducting for a mainline. I know I would have to duct-tape the joint on
the whole length??????????????

Jow

-- Remove par from email address for replying

Good success in my situation, which is a part time shop using a DC1100C with
1 to 2 machines at a time, mostly 30 Ga round 4" (some 26 Ga), standard
adjustable Ell's, going two directions with the DC in the middle. These
standard Ell's won't hold up to the wearing action of wood particles 40
hours a week of course, but then again, replacing a $6 Ell once in a while
isn't a big deal either. I either used metal duct tape or gray RTV for the
joints from one pipe to another or to a fitting, and mostly ignored the seam
down the length of the pipe. A main trunk of 5" round would have been ok or
better when multiple gates are open, but if I had to do it again, I'd save
the few $ and use 4" again. The 45 degree wye's are better than 90 degree
Tee's. Grounding is so easy with this stuff, and there are no ground wires
in the pipe to catch clogs.
There are a number of sites on the web that descibe some of this like:
http://www.airhand.com and http://www.oneida-air.com/
GL!

"golf" wrote in message
news
Hi group:
What success have you people had using the normal household furnace
ducting for a mainline. I know I would have to duct-tape the joint on
the whole length??????????????

Jow

-- Remove par from email address for replying

golf wrote:

Hi group:
What success have you people had using the normal household furnace
ducting for a mainline. I know I would have to duct-tape the joint on
the whole length??????????????

Jow

-- Remove par from email address for replying

You can also use 4" schedule 40 PVC.

Deb

"Dr. deb" wrote in message ...
golf wrote:

Hi group:
What success have you people had using the normal household furnace
ducting for a mainline. I know I would have to duct-tape the joint on
the whole length??????????????

Jow

-- Remove par from email address for replying

You can also use 4" schedule 40 PVC.

Deb

================================================== ===========================

I use metal, too. The only problem I see with the PVC is that you
still have to ground it, whereas the metal acts as a ground.

"Just one OLD man's opinion."

The Other Bruce

billh wrote:

I have heard of some saying their system can collapse the thin stuff if
all their gates are closed but I have my doubts unless their system is
extremely tight and have some damaged duct (badly flattened). If you think
you are approaching this situation just bleed a bit of air - yeah, I know
that isn't the idea but life isn't perfect at least on the cheap.

The problem with "just bleed a little air" is that you don't know you need
to until it's too late.

Billh

"golf" wrote in message
news
Hi group:
What success have you people had using the normal household furnace
ducting for a mainline. I know I would have to duct-tape the joint on
the whole length??????????????

Jow

-- Remove par from email address for replying

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Bruce" wrote in message
m...
SNIP ....

I use metal, too. The only problem I see with the PVC is that you
still have to ground it, whereas the metal acts as a ground.

"Just one OLD man's opinion."

The Other Bruce
====================
Bruce,
The metal ducting is conductive, but is not grounded unless it is in contact
with a grounded tool, or has a grounding wire run to an established ground
lug/connection.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

Jow,

I installed some in my shop about 5 years ago and it seems to work fine,
also it's pretty cheap. However, I put one length of a heavier duct
called spiral duct that has a length of steel curled around the outside.
It is much more substantial and if the cost isn't critical I would
definitely recommend this instead.

Good luck,

Glen Duff



golf wrote:

Hi group:
What success have you people had using the normal household furnace
ducting for a mainline. I know I would have to duct-tape the joint on
the whole length??????????????

Jow

-- Remove par from email address for replying