New to this group, but not to turning.
Two questions-- Anybody seen the MLCS routerbit that cuts 30-60 angles
for 6-12 piece stave blanks? Any good? They have two others for 8 & 16
pieces. $29.99 each. Couldn't you just set the jointer for 45 deg for
8 pcs & 22.5 deg for 16 pcs? Then cut off at 90 on the TS , crosscut
to stave height & glue up? Havn't tried it yet, but will follow this
thread & post when I do-- just wanted some feedback on the bits & the
alternate method. Have to fix the LM first
Phil

(Phil) wrote in message om...
originally posted to rec.crafts.woodturning

New to this group, but not to turning.
Two questions-- Anybody seen the MLCS routerbit that cuts 30-60 angles
for 6-12 piece stave blanks? Any good? They have two others for 8 & 16
pieces. $29.99 each. Couldn't you just set the jointer for 45 deg for
8 pcs & 22.5 deg for 16 pcs? Then cut off at 90 on the TS , crosscut
to stave height & glue up? Havn't tried it yet, but will follow this
thread & post when I do-- just wanted some feedback on the bits & the
alternate method. Have to fix the LM first
Phil

Got the LM fixed & had some time-- after much set up time on the
jointer I found that this method -- at least for 45 degrees or eight
staves works after a fashon. The router bits mentioned earlier appear
to cut a 90 degree rabbett at 45 dergees, or 30 degrees or 60 deg--
depending on which one you get. Its advantage seems to be the sholder
it leaves for inner alignment, which you can't get on a jointer unless
you set it up to make one cut at rabbetting depth. I havn't bought
any of the three bits yet-- I may try & make a 45 degree fixture for
my router table so I can achieve the same effect with a 3/4" straight
router bit- MTTM
Picture of the bits & method are on page 28 of the new MLCS cat.
Phil

Are you referring to the flute and bead bit or the bird's mouth bit? I don't
think MLCS sells the bird's mouth bit, but it sounds like that's what you
need. They come in different angles for a different number of sides.

"Phil" wrote in message
om...
(Phil) wrote in message
om...
originally posted to rec.crafts.woodturning

New to this group, but not to turning.
Two questions-- Anybody seen the MLCS routerbit that cuts 30-60 angles
for 6-12 piece stave blanks? Any good? They have two others for 8 & 16
pieces. $29.99 each. Couldn't you just set the jointer for 45 deg for
8 pcs & 22.5 deg for 16 pcs? Then cut off at 90 on the TS , crosscut
to stave height & glue up? Havn't tried it yet, but will follow this
thread & post when I do-- just wanted some feedback on the bits & the
alternate method. Have to fix the LM first
Phil

Got the LM fixed & had some time-- after much set up time on the
jointer I found that this method -- at least for 45 degrees or eight
staves works after a fashon. The router bits mentioned earlier appear
to cut a 90 degree rabbett at 45 dergees, or 30 degrees or 60 deg--
depending on which one you get. Its advantage seems to be the sholder
it leaves for inner alignment, which you can't get on a jointer unless
you set it up to make one cut at rabbetting depth. I havn't bought
any of the three bits yet-- I may try & make a 45 degree fixture for
my router table so I can achieve the same effect with a 3/4" straight
router bit- MTTM
Picture of the bits & method are on page 28 of the new MLCS cat.
Phil


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Phil wrote:
New to this group, but not to turning.
Two questions-- Anybody seen the MLCS routerbit that cuts 30-60 angles
for 6-12 piece stave blanks? Any good? They have two others for 8 & 16
pieces. $29.99 each. Couldn't you just set the jointer for 45 deg for
8 pcs & 22.5 deg for 16 pcs? Then cut off at 90 on the TS , crosscut
to stave height & glue up? Havn't tried it yet, but will follow this
thread & post when I do-- just wanted some feedback on the bits & the
alternate method. Have to fix the LM first
Phil

If you have a decent tablesaw with a sharp blade, you don't need
anything else.
I've made hundreds of staved percussion drum shells with only a
tablesaw, with between 12 and 30 pieces. I set the blade angle with a
plastic draftsman's protractor, held against the miter guage to make
sure it was square against the blade--if it wasn't you'd get an angle error.
To check your angle, cut one stave and chop it up into short pieces,
then superglue them together on a flat surface over wax paper.

In the beginning, we tried a 15 degree carbide router bit for a 12-pc
drum shell but found the tablesaw with a fine-tooth carbide blade to be
quicker, easier, and more econimical. The saw's toothmarks rarely showed
up in the glued joint after finish-turning unless the saw operator was
less than careful while ripping the staves.

BTW, 8 pieces need a 22.5 deg. edge angle, 45 deg. would give a square.

Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/



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