"Ron E." wrote in message
om...
Ordered my 3520A from Toolnut and am getting ready for its arrival.
SNIP
Question 2: I still have a Jet Mini so need fixtures with both 1" and
1 1/4" sizes. Should I just get an adaptor to make the PM 1", or
would it be better to get new 1 1/4" inserts for my 2 chucks, and put
an adaptor on the Mini to make it 1 1/4"? I'm leaning toward the
latter even if it's a bit more money.
==================================
The larger option is the way to go. You're paying a substantial amount to
get a lathe that will handle a large piece of wood. Why would you want to
reduce the capability by a large percent? Remember that the strength of the
steel is roughly prpportional to the square of the diameter. 4/4 vs 5/4
inch, or 16 vs 25. There are other factors to consider in determining
strength, but why do it that way? The adapter won't be much additional
weight on the nose of the Mini, plus it will already be well balanced, so it
would be like adding a Super Nova chuck where you originally had an older
Nova chuck. YMMV

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX

a PM tech who said my 20 amp service isn't enough. An electrician friend
says 20
amp is plenty. What do you say?

The PM tech doesn't know what he's talking about. Your electrician friend
does.


Steve Sarasohn

There are three kinds of people, those who can count and those who can't.

"Ron E." wrote in message

Ordered my 3520A from Toolnut and am getting ready for its arrival.

snip

Question 2: I still have a Jet Mini so need fixtures with both 1" and
1 1/4" sizes. Should I just get an adaptor to make the PM 1", or
would it be better to get new 1 1/4" inserts for my 2 chucks, and put
an adaptor on the Mini to make it 1 1/4"? I'm leaning toward the
latter even if it's a bit more money.

That's what I did. I bought a Jet 1442 last year and wanted to buy a chuck
and some other accessories. I also plan to upgrade to a Woodfast, PM, or
similar lathe in the not-too-distant future, so I chose to purchase a chuck
and faceplates with 1 1/4" threads. I bought an adaptor from Jet to allow
this to be used on my 1" spindle. Works like a charm. The adaptor was $65,
but I'm guessing that one could be had for less.

Max

1. 20 amps is plenty - I run a 5 hp air compressor on a 20 amp (220)circuit
and that is a heck of a lot heavier load than any normal wood lathe - maybe
some behemouth that turns a 96 inch slab might need more, but nothing in the
2 to 5 HP range. I am assuming here that you are talking 220V, if 110,
current is doubled, of course.

2. I'd recommend that you have two sets of fixtures - the cost is nominal
and you'll find that the large stuff doesn't work well on the small lathe,
and you don't want the small stuff on the large lathe. Faceplates are cheap
(see thread on cheap faceplates, or of course buy them from me ) and the
only expensive fixture is a chuck. Once I got my larger lathe, I use my
Nova Comet for pens and a few small items only.
"Ron E." wrote in message
om...
Ordered my 3520A from Toolnut and am getting ready for its arrival.

Question 1: Talked to a PM tech who said my 20 amp service isn't
enough. Have to have minimum 25 amp, preferably 30 amp. Told him
that my 3hp tablesaw ran fine on this sevice, and he indicated I was
lucky I hadn't burned out the motor. An electrician friend says 20
amp is plenty. What do you say?

Question 2: I still have a Jet Mini so need fixtures with both 1" and
1 1/4" sizes. Should I just get an adaptor to make the PM 1", or
would it be better to get new 1 1/4" inserts for my 2 chucks, and put
an adaptor on the Mini to make it 1 1/4"? I'm leaning toward the
latter even if it's a bit more money.

Thanks much.

Ron

In article ,
(Ron E.) wrote:

Question 1: Talked to a PM tech who said my 20 amp service isn't
enough. Have to have minimum 25 amp, preferably 30 amp. Told him
that my 3hp tablesaw ran fine on this sevice, and he indicated I was
lucky I hadn't burned out the motor. An electrician friend says 20
amp is plenty. What do you say?

According to the electrical guide, "Wiring Simplified", which is a
comprehensive overview of residential wiring requirements, guidelines
and methods, your 2 hp, 240V motor should pull about 12 amps. That means
a 20 amp, 240V circuit using 12 gage running 70 feet total should be
just fine.

When I wired my 240V circuit, I used 10 gage wire with a 30 amp breaker
running less than 75 feet. Remember the breaker is there to only protect
the wiring and not the appliance - in other words, size the breaker to
the wire gage and length and not what's plugged into it. I chose to go
larger than needed for my 3hp Unisaw so that I could also plug in my
dust collector if I ever choose to convert that to 240V or a larger
planer or jointer if my ship ever comes in.

(Also, the extra cost to go with 10 gage and a 30amp breaker was minimal
when compared with needing to upgrade or add a second circuit if using
12 gage and a 20 amp breaker.)

Owen Lowe wrote in newsnlnlowe-
:

In article ,
(Ron E.) wrote:

Question 1: Talked to a PM tech who said my 20 amp service isn't
enough. Have to have minimum 25 amp, preferably 30 amp. Told him
that my 3hp tablesaw ran fine on this sevice, and he indicated I was
lucky I hadn't burned out the motor. An electrician friend says 20
amp is plenty. What do you say?

Ron,
The PM tech may know PM lathes, but he doesn't understand electricity that
well. Motors may burn out on a circuit that can supply too much current if
the motor has a problem (bind, super catch, etc.) before it trips the
breaker (blows a fuse). A motor will not burn out (or start) on a protected
circuit that is rated too low for the motor (the breaker trips). 20 A is
fine for your lathe.
Regards,
Hank

one correction to Henry's remarks - low voltage, caused by excessive drop in
the feed lines for example, can in fact cause a motor to burn out,
especially if it drops the speed low enough that the centrifugal switch
engages the starting windings. However, I agree that you don't need to
worry about it.


"Henry St.Pierre" wrote in message
. 97.132...
Owen Lowe wrote in newsnlnlowe-
:

In article ,
(Ron E.) wrote:

Question 1: Talked to a PM tech who said my 20 amp service isn't
enough. Have to have minimum 25 amp, preferably 30 amp. Told him
that my 3hp tablesaw ran fine on this sevice, and he indicated I was
lucky I hadn't burned out the motor. An electrician friend says 20
amp is plenty. What do you say?

Ron,
The PM tech may know PM lathes, but he doesn't understand electricity
that
well. Motors may burn out on a circuit that can supply too much current if
the motor has a problem (bind, super catch, etc.) before it trips the
breaker (blows a fuse). A motor will not burn out (or start) on a
protected
circuit that is rated too low for the motor (the breaker trips). 20 A is
fine for your lathe.
Regards,
Hank

Not owning one, merely drooling, does it try to maintain a constant speed
under load? I which case, might it increase and hold its current draw past
the time tolerance of the breaker?

"william_b_noble" wrote in message
s.com...
one correction to Henry's remarks - low voltage, caused by excessive drop
in
the feed lines for example, can in fact cause a motor to burn out,
especially if it drops the speed low enough that the centrifugal switch
engages the starting windings. However, I agree that you don't need to
worry about it.


"Henry St.Pierre" wrote in message
. 97.132...
Owen Lowe wrote in newsnlnlowe-
:

In article ,
(Ron E.) wrote:

Question 1: Talked to a PM tech who said my 20 amp service isn't
enough. Have to have minimum 25 amp, preferably 30 amp. Told him
that my 3hp tablesaw ran fine on this sevice, and he indicated I was
lucky I hadn't burned out the motor. An electrician friend says 20
amp is plenty. What do you say?

Ron,
The PM tech may know PM lathes, but he doesn't understand electricity
that
well. Motors may burn out on a circuit that can supply too much current
if
the motor has a problem (bind, super catch, etc.) before it trips the
breaker (blows a fuse). A motor will not burn out (or start) on a
protected
circuit that is rated too low for the motor (the breaker trips). 20 A is
fine for your lathe.
Regards,
Hank

That is possible in a simple circuit but the variable-frequency drives
(which do try to maintain constant speed) are very sophisticated and will
sense such a condition and shut-down well before the motor would cook. This
is probably built-into the circuit to protect the drive electronics more
than the motor since they would be more likely to blow first. Also, while
Noble is correct about the start windings in single-phase motors, in the AC
variable-frequency case the power supplied from the VF converter is 3-phase
so there is no start winding to my knowledge.
Billh

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
Not owning one, merely drooling, does it try to maintain a constant speed
under load? I which case, might it increase and hold its current draw
past
the time tolerance of the breaker?

"william_b_noble" wrote in message
s.com...
one correction to Henry's remarks - low voltage, caused by excessive
drop
in
the feed lines for example, can in fact cause a motor to burn out,
especially if it drops the speed low enough that the centrifugal switch
engages the starting windings. However, I agree that you don't need to
worry about it.


"Henry St.Pierre" wrote in message
. 97.132...
Owen Lowe wrote in newsnlnlowe-
:

In article ,
(Ron E.) wrote:

Question 1: Talked to a PM tech who said my 20 amp service isn't
enough. Have to have minimum 25 amp, preferably 30 amp. Told him
that my 3hp tablesaw ran fine on this sevice, and he indicated I
was
lucky I hadn't burned out the motor. An electrician friend says 20
amp is plenty. What do you say?

Ron,
The PM tech may know PM lathes, but he doesn't understand electricity
that
well. Motors may burn out on a circuit that can supply too much
current
if
the motor has a problem (bind, super catch, etc.) before it trips the
breaker (blows a fuse). A motor will not burn out (or start) on a
protected
circuit that is rated too low for the motor (the breaker trips). 20 A
is
fine for your lathe.
Regards,
Hank

One more correction. What you say is correct if we are talking about a single phase motor.

This lathe comes with a VFD and a 3 phase motor. So, there is no centrifugal switch because
there is no start winding. One of the many advantages of 3 phase motors driven by a VFD

Bill R

In article m, says...
one correction to Henry's remarks - low voltage, caused by excessive drop in
the feed lines for example, can in fact cause a motor to burn out,
especially if it drops the speed low enough that the centrifugal switch
engages the starting windings. However, I agree that you don't need to
worry about it.


"Henry St.Pierre" wrote in message
. 97.132...
Owen Lowe wrote in newsnlnlowe-
:

In article ,
(Ron E.) wrote:

Question 1: Talked to a PM tech who said my 20 amp service isn't
enough. Have to have minimum 25 amp, preferably 30 amp. Told him
that my 3hp tablesaw ran fine on this sevice, and he indicated I was
lucky I hadn't burned out the motor. An electrician friend says 20
amp is plenty. What do you say?

Ron,
The PM tech may know PM lathes, but he doesn't understand electricity
that
well. Motors may burn out on a circuit that can supply too much current if
the motor has a problem (bind, super catch, etc.) before it trips the
breaker (blows a fuse). A motor will not burn out (or start) on a
protected
circuit that is rated too low for the motor (the breaker trips). 20 A is
fine for your lathe.
Regards,
Hank

aaah, didn't realize it has vfd. Given that, you really don't have to
worry - every VFD I have seen has both a soft start (controlled
acelleration) feature and a max current limit - These are user
adjustable,though few wood turners mess with the parameters. I have a Delta
VFD-B series drive on my Logan metal lathe - it's a 3 HP drive running a 2
hp motor - so I set the current limit to a lower value suitable for my
motor. I also turned off the deceleration profile on "stop", so it would
coast to a stop (that way the emergency brake would work), and I changed the
accel profile to 15 sec from 30 because I'm impatient. On the other hand, I
haven't messed with the parameters on my Stubby wood lathe.


"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
. net...
One more correction. What you say is correct if we are talking about a
single phase motor.

This lathe comes with a VFD and a 3 phase motor. So, there is no
centrifugal switch because
there is no start winding. One of the many advantages of 3 phase motors
driven by a VFD

Bill R

snip-------

The only way that I would see a need for a 30 amp service would be if you
were to be running other high current draw equiptment on the same circuit at
the same time. If you are just running the lathe on that circuit the 20 amp
service should be fine.
..Steven Raphael
Troll from Ithaca MI
"Ron E." wrote in message
om...
Ordered my 3520A from Toolnut and am getting ready for its arrival.

Question 1: Talked to a PM tech who said my 20 amp service isn't
enough. Have to have minimum 25 amp, preferably 30 amp. Told him
that my 3hp tablesaw ran fine on this sevice, and he indicated I was
lucky I hadn't burned out the motor. An electrician friend says 20
amp is plenty. What do you say?

Question 2: I still have a Jet Mini so need fixtures with both 1" and
1 1/4" sizes. Should I just get an adaptor to make the PM 1", or
would it be better to get new 1 1/4" inserts for my 2 chucks, and put
an adaptor on the Mini to make it 1 1/4"? I'm leaning toward the
latter even if it's a bit more money.

Thanks much.

Ron

"Ron E." wrote in message

Thanks to all for your responses. I'm contiually amazed at the wealth
of info and expertise on this board, and on the web in general. What
did we do for research before having the internet? Probably went out
and actually talked to people. LOL.

. . . or just blundered blindly into the abyss, whilst waiting for snail
mail to arrive.

Max