I am getting ready to buy a new lathe and am thinking about making the stand that is in shopnotes issue 10. My only problem is that I have a one car garage and have to do most of my work outside. I need a stand that is portable.

Does anyone have any suggestions. I figure that I will need to use some sandbags for weight for the stability.

Thanks
Ted

In message , Ted
writes
I am getting ready to buy a new lathe and am thinking about making the
stand that is in shopnotes issue 10. My only problem is that I have a
one car garage and have to do most of my work outside. I need a stand
that is portable.

Does anyone have any suggestions. I figure that I will need to use some
sandbags for weight for the stability.

Thanks
Ted

Not seen the shopnotes you mention but..

My lathe is on wheels 4 at each end providing a platform ( Think
skateboard). The wheels are all revolving rather than fixed, and of
Nylon NOT Rubber which compresses under standing weight. On the shelf I
have 2 bench grinders and between the wheels on another shelf is more
equipment that is heavy. The whole thing moves with little effort, and
as each wheel has its own locking brake that also stops rotation its
going nowhere and I usually only lock 1 wheel each end.

Disadvantage or advantage depending on your height. These wheels add 3
inches to height and the shelf they are attached to another inch so you
get 4 inches of height. In my case I have an additional 3 inches of
support to get the lathe at the height comfortable for me. By using
Steel U channel idea, with wheels attached to brackets attached to the
top edge of the U , you can effectively lower the height of your
assembly to near ground level
--
John

In article ,
"Ted" wrote:

I am getting ready to buy a new lathe and am thinking about making the stand
that is in shopnotes issue 10. My only problem is that I have a one car
garage and have to do most of my work outside. I need a stand that is
portable.

haven't got shopnotes handy, but any of the usual methods work, so long
as you use wheels that will take the load. Best to use one of the
variants that has the load off the wheels when working.

Depending what you have, and how heavy:

Set up so it can be moved by a pallet jack - of course, you have to get
a pallet jack, but you can set other things up for moving with the same
pallet jack, and a pallet jack will pick up a ton or two.

Wheels at one end that are off the ground (just) when set level. Handles
(might be removable) on opposite end so you can "wheelbarrow" it -
limited weight you can pick up is a factor.

Flip-under casters - each end has a jacking point and a set of casters
mounted on a hinged board - flipped under the wheels are on the ground.
Flipped out the legs set on the ground and the wheels point to the sky.
Jack has to be able to get in without getting in the way of the wheel
board.

One I have not seen that should work - casters on levers (short side) -
long side long enough that you can set the casters down and raise the
leg up; with a method to pin the lever up while moving.

Arrangements with hinges, casters and screws to jack the casters down to
the ground - many ways to work - can use a ratchet rather than having to
provide a handle.

Fancier methods involving cams - buy rather than build for most of us.

Be very wary of heavy lathe+stand and sloping driveway - when a heavy
load on wheels decides to go downhill, it's going to go downhill... at
least until it falls over and breaks.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

In message , Ted
writes
"John" wrote in message
...
In message , Ted
writes
I am getting ready to buy a new lathe and am thinking about making the
stand that is in shopnotes issue 10. My only problem is that I have a
one car garage and have to do most of my work outside. I need a stand
that is portable.

Does anyone have any suggestions. I figure that I will need to use some
sandbags for weight for the stability.

Thanks
Ted

Not seen the shopnotes you mention but..

My lathe is on wheels 4 at each end providing a platform ( Think
skateboard). The wheels are all revolving rather than fixed, and of
Nylon NOT Rubber which compresses under standing weight. On the shelf I
have 2 bench grinders and between the wheels on another shelf is more
equipment that is heavy. The whole thing moves with little effort, and
as each wheel has its own locking brake that also stops rotation its
going nowhere and I usually only lock 1 wheel each end.

Disadvantage or advantage depending on your height. These wheels add 3
inches to height and the shelf they are attached to another inch so you
get 4 inches of height. In my case I have an additional 3 inches of
support to get the lathe at the height comfortable for me. By using
Steel U channel idea, with wheels attached to brackets attached to the
top edge of the U , you can effectively lower the height of your
assembly to near ground level
--
John

the height of the casters assembly difference could be compensated for
in the height of the legs. I like the idea of using heavy tools. What
do you do to keep all the shavings out of them?
An old sheet for the top tools Though I do have plans to add solid
protection someday. And a loose sheet in the form of a curtain for those
below the shelf.

You can impliment a curtain system around the casters as well if you
have need to keep shavings from the wheels, though I was 6 inches deep
in shavings last year and never found the wheels were affected, just me
getting higher, though it did provide a nice FREE anti fatigue flooring



One thing I did do with the lower shelf.

The wheel assemblies are 6inches bigger than the distance of stand front
to back so a 3 inch overhang ( provides extra stability - think straight
line of legs to ground). The lower shelf I have attached extends right
to the back, however it stops level with the standard shelf at the
front.( Your feet have to go somewhere)


I checked Northern tool's site and found several casters with some
great weight capacity.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...uct_6970_20033
7555_200337555
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...uct_6970_20033
7551_200337551

This one has a double lock to lock both the wheel and the swiveling. I
think that would be a good idea.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...uct_6970_20033
7553_200337553

Here is a link to the type I use

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...eels&user_sear
ch=1&sfile=1&jump=44

Most of the ones you show appear to have a "Tyre", though looking
through the site there does appear to be "Solid" variants. The type will
compress over time, what they don't tell you is they are designed for
transient loads, not permanent. You will see why below when you
understand the weights involved

All three examples have a weight capacity of over 200 pounds.

You probably have no need of anything anywhere near as heavy duty

I use 4 on each platform both ends for a total of 8 and use the 50mm
version on the page shown.( type 600766) These solid nylon types seem to
role without issue.
So 8 of these with capacity of 100lbs = 800 lbs

My lathe I about 160 and the tools on the shelves about the same, so
only 320 lbs from capacity

The solid "tyre" wheels went flat. It may have been due to temperature
variations heating the tyre, thus softening it, but I doubt it went to
more than 30c. I ended changing the wheels on all my equipment Bandsaw,
Router Bench, two other benches



They have Thermoplastic non-marking wheel. Would that be comparable to
nylon. We all know how marketing people are. LOL.
Basically the Non marking wheels are usually a solid plastic centre and
softer "type". Think engineering firm, their equipment often had metal
casters, not as quiet but lasted. This is also a problem with nylon
version, in it is a little noisier than the rubber version.. Also look
at the construction. The ones I use have a bolt to hold the when to the
bracket. When I came to have to change all my wheels I slipped a 2/4
under the platform at on end and levered the lathe up an inch, the
blocked it for safety. I was then able to undo the bolt and swap the
wheels. Far quicker than undoing all four bolts for the complete
assembly. SO another good reason to have a couple of spares

doesn't have to be that exact plan, if anyone know of other plans that
are available online either free or for not to much money.

Another option would to be to buy their stand,
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LVSTAND.html and then build a wheeled
base to put it on and put the extra weight on.
Use the concept , maybe build a stand from wood, an old cupboard
(kitchen), that is sturdy. Or better still depending on your lathe 2 off
3 draw filing cabinets ( with wheeled platforms) draw handles at ends
to reduce depth, and a solid shelf ( kitchen work top) secured to their
tops. Makes for a nice rigid construction with built in storage. In the
UK offices often dispose of filing cabinets for free

I use this technique at present for a movable bench that has another
Grinder/ Morticer and Belt Disk Sander, though with a little juggling I
hope also to get my jointer on their too ( BY Adjusting the heights of
the equipment you can make it so their is no conflict on working
surfaces. Hey one day I will have a workshop with a bench for each piece
of equipment..... Ok I will wake up now

Even my router bench has a shelf at wheel level which stores a
thicknesser and cut-off saw. AND on the top of the router bench is a
cover made from 3/4 ply which covers the guides and is supported from
the surface. On that is bolted a Chop Saw!

Quart into a Pint pot, no problem Sir

And remember if there is a slope involved BRAKES
--
John

In message , John
writes
And remember if there is a slope involved BRAKES

Substitute Tyre for Type as you think suits My spell checker did it
all lol
--
John

In message , Ted

I decided to throw one together on Sunday. I used one sheet of 1/2 inch
plywood and I think it was six 2 x 4. the legs are 10 degrees. This
has some weight to it and feels pretty stable. The combination of the
locking wheels and the joints between the pavers keep it from moving. I
should have made the middle shelf a little higher and may go back and
change it. Everything is screwed together with 4 3" screws at each
joint. 2 from each side. No plans drawn, just the idea in my head and
thrown together. It may not look it in the photos, but I did measure
diagonally and it is square. The driveway has a slight slope that is
why the shelf's look like they are not level.

http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...iamited/Bench/


Looks nice and solid, now if you had a flip top , your could invert the
to present a new piece of equipment BIT Like the way the Green HORNET
Stored his car IIRC
--
John