As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months ago )
I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a chuck. I
have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with turned morse
Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood Cataloge There is
a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and others. Yes of course
I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot @£126 ) or the
SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better than the Fox FX4000
@ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). for which, for the same amount of cash as
a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend ? Price of course is
always an issue.


many thanks in advance, and happy turning


One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning - Ride the Bevel, or Sup
with the Devil. :-)

In message , brian white
writes
As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months ago )
I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a chuck. I
have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with turned morse
Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood Cataloge There is
a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and others. Yes of course
I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot @£126 ) or the
SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better than the Fox FX4000
@ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). for which, for the same amount of cash as
a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend ? Price of course is
always an issue.

I'm not seasoned, only been playing a little longer than yourself

I would also recommend looking at the Axminster chucks.
Specifically this package
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-A...uck-Package-36
3274.htm

I would have got it instead of their K10 if I had known more at the time

One thing to consider is that it takes time to change jaws, unscrewing,
alignment etc. So you may want to consider the price of jaw carriers in
the overall equation, as its wind them out and wind in the new ones with
the alternate jaws pre fitted and aligned. ( that's what I did)

In some ways I am lucky 4 miles that way and I have Axminster, 4 miles
the other I have Poolewood

Two very bad reasons to spend money !
--
John

In article ,
"brian white" wrote:

As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months ago )
I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a chuck. I
have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with turned morse
Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood Cataloge There is
a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and others. Yes of course
I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot @£126 ) or the
SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better than the Fox FX4000
@ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). for which, for the same amount of cash as
a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend ? Price of course is
always an issue.


many thanks in advance, and happy turning


One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning - Ride the Bevel, or Sup
with the Devil. :-)

I afraid I'm not much help as I only recognize the SN2, the other two
must be UK brands that never make it across the pond. I like my SN2's
but the Canadian Oneway and Ausy Vicmarc are great too (SN2 will take
any jaw that Teknatool makes, well, except for the Titan Power jaw,
something not true in most lines)

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

I use both the Supanova and Vicmarc chucks and find them both excellent,
although to tighten the Supanova you will be turning the chuck key
anti-clockwise to tighten it and that may feel odd. Another excellent chuck
would be the Versachuck available from the Toolpost www.toolpost.co.uk .
The beauty of that one is that you can buy carrier jaws for fitting jaws
from other manufacturers. It is also a very solid substantial chuck that is
well built. I hope these notes will be of help. Good chucks aren't cheap,
but will be long lasting and accurate in their workholding.

Charlie

--

"brian white" wrote in message
...
As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months
ago ) I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a
chuck. I have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with
turned morse Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood
Cataloge There is a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and
others. Yes of course I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot
@£126 ) or the SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better
than the Fox FX4000 @ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). for which, for the
same amount of cash as a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend ? Price of course is
always an issue.


many thanks in advance, and happy turning


One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning - Ride the Bevel, or
Sup with the Devil. :-)

On Feb 4, 4:20 am, "brian white" wrote:
As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months ago )
I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a chuck. I
have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with turned morse
Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood Cataloge There is
a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and others. Yes of course
I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot @£126 ) or the
SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better than the Fox FX4000
@ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). for which, for the same amount of cash as
a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend ? Price of course is
always an issue.

many thanks in advance, and happy turning

One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning - Ride the Bevel, or Sup
with the Devil. :-)


Hello Brian,

I own a dozen or more chucks, most of them Teknatool, and one Vicmarc.
I believe the Partiot is made by Robert Sorby and is likely a very
good chuck because Robert Sorby produces quality tools. I purchased
two SuperNova2 chucks when they first came out, one for myself and one
for my wife, they are excellent chucks and well worth the money. No
chuck on the market except the Nova Chucks have the greatest
interchange of jaws from one chuck to the next. Even the Titan Chuck
from Teknatool uses all of the jaws manufactured for all of their
other chucks. I suspect that the Fox FX4000 is a Chinese made rip-off
of someone elses chuck and likely not worth what they are selling for.
As someone else mentioned the Vicmarc chucks are hard to beat when it
comes to quality.

Just remember, you get what you pay for, and this is especially true
when it comes to turning tools and woodturning chucks.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

"Charles Jones" wrote in message
...
I use both the Supanova and Vicmarc chucks and find them both excellent,
although to tighten the Supanova you will be turning the chuck key
anti-clockwise to tighten it and that may feel odd.

Well, it "tightens" on a mortise when turned clockwise. Of course the left
end of your grinder and the nut on the arbor of your left tilt tablesaw,
etc. tighten that way too.

"Lefty Lucy doesn't spread 'em for Chuck" is a useful NOVA mnemonic.

"brian white" wrote in message
...
As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months
ago ) I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a
chuck. I have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with
turned morse Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood
Cataloge There is a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and
others. Yes of course I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot
@£126 ) or the SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better
than the Fox FX4000 @ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). for which, for the
same amount of cash as a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend ? Price of course is
always an issue.


many thanks in advance, and happy turning


One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning - Ride the Bevel, or
Sup with the Devil. :-)



The Nova G3 is another one. I heard that Nova jaws will go on a Patriot.
I have 2 Supernovas, a G3 and a Versa. The Versa I find is heavy so it only
gets used when
I want the jaws that are on it. Enjoy the addiction

On Mon, 04 Feb 2008 12:20:09 GMT, "brian white"
wrote:

As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months ago )
I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a chuck. I
have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with turned morse
Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood Cataloge There is
a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and others. Yes of course
I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot @£126 ) or the
SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better than the Fox FX4000
@ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). for which, for the same amount of cash as
a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend ? Price of course is
always an issue.


many thanks in advance, and happy turning


One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning - Ride the Bevel, or Sup
with the Devil. :-)

Sort of like asking what brand of truck is best.. ;-]

My personal choice is Oneway.. For most lathes, the Talon, for larger projects,
the Stronghold..

I've had a Talon for about 5 years and like it so much that I'd buy it again..
As a matter of fact, I DID buy it again, 2 years later when I wanted a 2nd
chuck..
I've done a few hundred pieces with it and it's still working great..
It's pricey, but good things usually are..

I'd also look at the Super Nova.. no personal experience, just gleaned from
comments here..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I do know that the Nova chucks are good. I have the Vicmarc, and have
abused them severely. They hold up well. I have a friend who is a
professional turner (since the first scroll chucks came out) and he
has all Oneway chucks. He told me that the only reason he doesn't have
the Vicmarc is because a friend of his stopped turning and sold all
his Oneway chucks for very cheap. I don't have any experience with the
Axminster is also considered a heavy duty chuck, but I don't think it
is available in the US any more.
robo hippy

On Feb 4, 8:35*am, "Boru" wrote:
"brian white" wrote in message

...



As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months
ago ) I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a
chuck. I have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with
turned morse Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood
Cataloge There is a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and
others. *Yes of course I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot
@£126 ) *or the SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better
than the Fox FX4000 @ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). *for which, for the
same amount of cash as a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend *? *Price of course is
always an issue.

many thanks in advance, and happy turning

One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning *- Ride the Bevel, or
Sup with the Devil. :-)

The Nova G3 is another one. I heard that Nova jaws will go on a Patriot.
I have 2 Supernovas, a G3 and a Versa. The Versa I find is heavy so it only
gets used when
I want the jaws that are on it. Enjoy the addiction

On Feb 4, 7:20*am, "brian white" wrote:
As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months ago )
I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a chuck. I
have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with turned morse
Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood Cataloge There is
a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and others. *Yes of course
I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot @£126 ) *or the
SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better than the Fox FX4000
@ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). *for which, for the same amount of cash as
a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend *? *Price of course is
always an issue.

many thanks in advance, and happy turning

One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning *- Ride the Bevel, or Sup
with the Devil. :-)

I don't know what your face is worth, but for me the best holding
chuck is just barely good enough, and yes last time I looked in the
mirror, I think Im seasoned very well, maybe overdone ;-))
Oh that best chuck you want to know ?? or the cheapest that's going to
bite you ??
I have and use Oneway Stronghold and Oneway Talon chucks, for more
that 10 years at least, and yes the Patented jaws that hold the wood,
are only available on a Oneway, sorry.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Feb 4, 7:20 am, "brian white" wrote:
As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months ago )
I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a chuck. I
have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with turned morse
Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood Cataloge There is
a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and others. Yes of course
I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot @£126 ) or the
SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better than the Fox FX4000
@ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). for which, for the same amount of cash as
a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend ? Price of course is
always an issue.

many thanks in advance, and happy turning

One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning - Ride the Bevel, or Sup
with the Devil. :-)


There's a 1 page review of the Patriot chuck in this month's Woodturner
magazine which you should be able to pick up (or just read the relevant
article) in WHSmiths.

The review recommends the chuck - well built, does the job, uses design
features from other chucks but adds it's own touches (like the rubber
band safety feature). A typically well made Sorby product.

The Versachuck was also reviewed several months back and this was
recommended as well. The big selling point of it is that with the
purchase of extra jaw slides it can take jaws from other manufacturers.

I've never used or even seen either of these chucks so can't personally
recommend them.

I have a SuperNova and SuperNova Deluxe chucks and have not had any
problem with them. They're the only ones that I've used so can't compare
to others.

As for the Fox chuck - as others have said, you usually get what you pay
for. I've just done a quick search for the Fox and didn't get many
relevant hits, which may suggest that they aren't well supported in this
country. Try to find someone selling jaws for it and see how many are
available. You may not think that you need many right now but who knows
what you'll be wanting to turn in the future.

Where abouts are you in the UK? If you're anywhere near Newcastle then
feel free to contact me and you can call round to check out my chucks.
Wherever you are there's likely to be a local club where you'll find
years worth of turning experience to draw on.
The Association of Woodturners of GB (http://www.woodturners.co.uk/)
should have a list of clubs

Hope that helps

Duncan

I would also highly recommend the Axminster chucks.

"Duncan Hoyle" wrote in message
. uk...

On Feb 4, 7:20 am, "brian white" wrote:
As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months
ago )
I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a chuck.
I
have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with turned
morse
Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood Cataloge
There is
a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and others. Yes of
course
I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot @£126 ) or the
SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better than the Fox
FX4000
@ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). for which, for the same amount of
cash as
a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend ? Price of course is
always an issue.

many thanks in advance, and happy turning

One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning - Ride the Bevel, or
Sup
with the Devil. :-)


Um No - Im down in Southampton too cold for me in Newcastle although I was
born n bred in Middlesbrough. I have joined a local woodturning club and
have posed the question, some lively debate followed, and basically it comes
down to a matter of personal preferance, the ease of obtaining and changing
jaw sets, and Durability .

Thanks for all the splended info folks - Im going to The Woodworking Show at
Alexandria Palace this coming weekend, cash in hand !!
I shall probably go for the Patriot ( unless someone else has a real
tempting "show offer" ! ) It Will, Be Mine !

Brian

Brian
Nice spot. One of the ladies from my church is from Southamptom (war bride)
and my daughter did here first year of University near there. My wife, on
the other hand, is from Lytham St Anne's in the Lake District. We had a
great time when we were in England but never made it down that way since we
visited my wife's relatives near Durham (I got to stand in the pulpit at
Durham Cathedral!!!). Next time we hope.

Let us know how the chuck works. I have the One Way and love it.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"brian white" wrote in message
news

"Duncan Hoyle" wrote in message
. uk...

On Feb 4, 7:20 am, "brian white" wrote:
As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months
ago )
I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a
chuck. I
have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with turned
morse
Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood Cataloge
There is
a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and others. Yes of
course
I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot @£126 ) or the
SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better than the Fox
FX4000
@ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). for which, for the same amount of
cash as
a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend ? Price of course
is
always an issue.

many thanks in advance, and happy turning

One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning - Ride the Bevel, or
Sup
with the Devil. :-)


Um No - Im down in Southampton too cold for me in Newcastle although I
was born n bred in Middlesbrough. I have joined a local woodturning club
and have posed the question, some lively debate followed, and basically it
comes down to a matter of personal preferance, the ease of obtaining and
changing jaw sets, and Durability .

Thanks for all the splended info folks - Im going to The Woodworking Show
at Alexandria Palace this coming weekend, cash in hand !!
I shall probably go for the Patriot ( unless someone else has a real
tempting "show offer" ! ) It Will, Be Mine !

Brian

One thing to consider is the changing of the jaws. I don't think there
is any easy way to do it, and rather than change jaws (I have found
that I use only about 3 different jaw sets) get a chuck for each set
of jaws.
robo hippy

On Feb 5, 8:39*am, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:
Brian
Nice spot. One of the ladies from my church is from Southamptom (war bride)
and my daughter did here first year of University near there. My wife, on
the other hand, is from Lytham St Anne's in the Lake District. We had a
great time when we were in England but never made it down that way since we
visited my wife's relatives near Durham (I got to stand in the pulpit at
Durham Cathedral!!!). Next time we hope.

Let us know how the chuck works. I have the One Way and love it.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canadahttp://aroundthewoods.comhttp://roundopinions.blogspot.com"brian white" wrote in message

news


"Duncan Hoyle" wrote in message
.uk...

On Feb 4, 7:20 am, "brian white" wrote:
As a relative noob to woodturning ( I acquired my first lathe 3 Months
ago )
I feel that I am now restricted in my creations for the lack of a
chuck. I
have made all kinds of Jam chucks, fixing to the headstock with turned
morse
Tapers. but its hard going !. Looking through the Polewood Cataloge
There is
a choice of the Patriot, SuperNova2, Fox FX4000, and others. *Yes of
course
I would probably like the most expensive, ( Patriot @£126 ) *or the
SuperNova @ £114.00 , are these chucks that much better than the Fox
FX4000
@ 68.83 ( including delivery ! ). *for which, for the same amount of
cash as
a Patriot I could also get a couple of sets of Jaws

What would you "seasoned" ! woodturners recommend *? *Price of course
is
always an issue.

many thanks in advance, and happy turning

One thing I have learnt in my 3 months of turning *- Ride the Bevel, or
Sup
with the Devil. :-)

Um No - *Im down in Southampton too cold for me in Newcastle although I
was born n bred in Middlesbrough. I have joined a local woodturning club
and have posed the question, some lively debate followed, and basically it
comes down to a matter of personal preferance, the ease of obtaining and
changing jaw sets, and Durability .

Thanks for all the splended info folks - Im going to The Woodworking Show
at Alexandria Palace this coming weekend, cash in hand !!
I shall probably go for the Patriot ( unless someone else has a real
tempting "show offer" *! *) *It Will, Be Mine !

Brian

One thing to consider is the changing of the jaws. I don't think there
is any easy way to do it,

Perhaps true, but a cheap set of t-handled allen wrenches was one of the
best 11$ I ever spent. One is dedicated to my SN^2, and two more to my
bandsaw.



and rather than change jaws (I have found
that I use only about 3 different jaw sets) get a chuck for each set of
jaws.

Wow ....'spensive



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Tue, 05 Feb 2008 15:52:52 GMT, "brian white"
wrote:


Um No - Im down in Southampton too cold for me in Newcastle although I was
born n bred in Middlesbrough. I have joined a local woodturning club and
have posed the question, some lively debate followed, and basically it comes
down to a matter of personal preferance, the ease of obtaining and changing
jaw sets, and Durability .

Thanks for all the splended info folks - Im going to The Woodworking Show at
Alexandria Palace this coming weekend, cash in hand !!
I shall probably go for the Patriot ( unless someone else has a real
tempting "show offer" ! ) It Will, Be Mine !

Brian


Well, Brian.. the bottom line is that once you get a chuck, a whole world of
turning opens up to you..

I've gotten so use to using a chuck that I bought a stub center for the chuck so
I don't have to take it off the lathe when I need to work between centers..

Have fun!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"StephenM" writes:

One thing to consider is the changing of the jaws. I don't think there
is any easy way to do it,

Perhaps true, but a cheap set of t-handled allen wrenches was one of the
best 11$ I ever spent. One is dedicated to my SN^2, and two more to my
bandsaw.

I have a cheap set (plastic handles) from HF, but when I bought my
SuperNova chuck from kmstools, they included a T-handle allen wrench.

This has a plastic coated metal handle, and the extra mass makes it
easier to remove the nuts. Give it a spin, and it keeps revolving. I
recommend getting a single high-quality wrench of the proper size for
your chuck. Wiha sells a 4mm for $3 to $8. (I don't have a Wiha, but
wahted to check the prices).

Your chuck deserves an upgrade from a HF T-handle allen wrench set.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Wed, 06 Feb 2008 06:18:37 -0500, Bruce Barnett
wrote:

"StephenM" writes:

One thing to consider is the changing of the jaws. I don't think there
is any easy way to do it,

Perhaps true, but a cheap set of t-handled allen wrenches was one of the
best 11$ I ever spent. One is dedicated to my SN^2, and two more to my
bandsaw.

I have a cheap set (plastic handles) from HF, but when I bought my
SuperNova chuck from kmstools, they included a T-handle allen wrench.

This has a plastic coated metal handle, and the extra mass makes it
easier to remove the nuts. Give it a spin, and it keeps revolving. I
recommend getting a single high-quality wrench of the proper size for
your chuck. Wiha sells a 4mm for $3 to $8. (I don't have a Wiha, but
wahted to check the prices).

Your chuck deserves an upgrade from a HF T-handle allen wrench set.

Same with the Oneway chucks.. they come with a nice t-wrench..

I don't change jaws much anymore, but when I did, I'd remove the screws with a
drill driver, then start them by hand and tighten with the drill driver..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Perhaps true, but a cheap set of t-handled allen wrenches was one of the
best 11$ I ever spent. One is dedicated to my SN^2, and two more to my
bandsaw.

I have a cheap set (plastic handles) from HF, but when I bought my
SuperNova chuck from kmstools, they included a T-handle allen wrench.

Hmmm?!? My 'nova came from KMS. I got the nice T-handle for the the chuck
itself, but I'm fairly sure that it only had a regular allen ("L") wrench
for the jaw-attaching screws.

This has a plastic coated metal handle, and the extra mass makes it
easier to remove the nuts. Give it a spin, and it keeps revolving.

My technique is to use the 'T' to initially "break the seal" then then just
spin the sharft between my thumb and forefinger for high-speed.


I recommend getting a single high-quality wrench of the proper size for
your chuck. Wiha sells a 4mm for $3 to $8. (I don't have a Wiha, but
wahted to check the prices).

I agree; it's a fine chuck and wothy of a decent wrench



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Feb 4, 12:36*pm, robo hippy wrote:
I do know that the Nova chucks are good. I have the Vicmarc, and have
abused them severely. They hold up well. I have a friend who is a
professional turner (since the first scroll chucks came out) and he
has all Oneway chucks. He told me that the only reason he doesn't have
the Vicmarc is because a friend of his stopped turning and sold all
his Oneway chucks for very cheap. I don't have any experience with the
Axminster is also considered a heavy duty chuck, but I don't think it
is available in the US any more.
robo hippy

Hi Reed
Was it you that had the gears break 3 times, on your chuck, twice the
pinions and once the main gear ?????

That's what I was talking about in the other post, as why won't people
tell that there equipment failed on them ??
Oh well so much for it "hold up well"
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

In article ,
"StephenM" wrote:

Perhaps true, but a cheap set of t-handled allen wrenches was one of the
best 11$ I ever spent. One is dedicated to my SN^2, and two more to my
bandsaw.

I have a cheap set (plastic handles) from HF, but when I bought my
SuperNova chuck from kmstools, they included a T-handle allen wrench.

Hmmm?!? My 'nova came from KMS. I got the nice T-handle for the the chuck
itself, but I'm fairly sure that it only had a regular allen ("L") wrench
for the jaw-attaching screws.

Bob Gadd is one of the few Nova dealers that sells those as something
other then "accessories" (yes I have bought a bunch of stuff from Bob)

--
--------------------------------------------------------
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Once again, late to a thread.

Things to look into when considering a chuck

1. Mechanism for tightening and loosening the jaws

TWO tomy bars means there's no hand to hold the
part being chucked while the jaws are snugged to
it and then tightened. If you have a spindle lock
on your lathe then you only need to use one
tomy bar and have another to hold the piece in
which case this isn't an issue.

A jacobs chuck key (either a short one like used
on a drill press or on the end of a long T-handle)
permits one hand tightening and loosening of the
jaws - without the need for a spindle lock. BUT -
and there always seems to be a "but" - this type
of key only works when the long axis of the key
goes in square to the long axis of the chuck - on
a jacobs chuck or a lathe chuck. There are
times - on some forms - where that isn't possible.
THAT is a limiting factor for chuck keys.

A normal straight T-handled allen wrench mechanism
has the same problem as the T-handled chuck key.
However, a "ball end" allen wrench lets you tighten
the jaws with the wrench angled back some towards
the back of the chuck. This capability may not
ever be used, but having it and not needing it is
better than needing it and not having it.

2. Lathes don't all have the same spindle size or
threading. A chuck that has spindle adapters
available to fit it and adapt to various spindle
diameters and threads will allow you to buy
just one adapter and keep using your chuck
on any lathe you may get later.

3. Jaw Sets - How many and what gripping size ranges
are available.

If you really want to bang your head on the wall,
turn a nice form with a tenon on the end to hold
it in your chuck - and then find that none of your
jaw sets will hold it for hollowing. Ideally, having
sets that cover the full range, min to max - with
NO GAPS - is REALLY nice to have.

4. Jaw Sets - how easy are they to change?

On the "borrowed from a metal lathe" chuck
you have to scroll one set of jaws off then
scroll another set on - and starting from
the right location and in the right order.
Make a mistake on either and the jaws
either won't close on center or won't close
at all. THAT is a real PITA

On the "designed specifically for a wood lathe"
chuck, the jaws attach to the chuck with allen
head screws - one or two screws depending
on the type of jaw. Makes changing jaws
a bit easier, faster and a little more idiot proof
(the latter very important if you sometimes
fall into Idiot Mode - ok, so I'm the only one
who does dumb things -occassionaly)

5. Jaw Sets - can you put them on anywhere
or does Jaw #1 HAVE TO GO ON IN POSITION
#1 ON THE CHUCK

Don't know about other chucks, but the
SuperNova2 jaws are each numbered and
have to be put on their right location. Note
that at least one set of jaws I have have
simple center punch marks to indicate the
jaw number - one dot for #1, two dots for
#2 and so on. THAT is a minor PITA. All
the other jaw sets have their number
stamped in the underside of the jaw.

6. Jaw Sets - are most if not all the jaws you
have for this chuck fit the other chucks
the manufacturer/company makes?

You WILL get additional jaw sets over time
and may end up with ALL the jaw sets
available for your first chuck. While
the price of the original chuck seems
like the big ticket item, the price of
all the additional jaw sets will equal or
exceed the initial chuck price.

7. Does ANYTHING protrude from the outside
of the chuck? If so, anything that does
WILL wack you on the knuckles - at least
once.

8. Are there ANY sharp edges or sharp corners
ANYWHERE that can (and will) make contact
with any part of your body - while installing,
removing or using the chuck?

9. Are the interior moving parts protected
from dust, dirt, oils, waxes, blood, insects,
pitch, sap, . . . A chuck that works
smooth and flawless when right out of the
box - but binds and chunks in use is nice
to look at but a PITA to use over time.

10. Does the chuck have built in Indexing?

Being able to index the chuck, even if you
don't think you need that capability now,
will give you the option later.

Some chucks have indexing holes or slots
on the rear outside of the chuck and some
have them on the back face of the chuck.
Being able to get to them from the top
makes it easier to add an indexing pin
to your lathe than adding one from behind
the chuck.

11. The quality of the steel in the moving
parts and the precision of their machining.

Good steel holds up - crappy steel doesn't.
If the mechanism is machined steel rather
than cast iron and then machined, it will
hold up, trouble free for year and years.
Machined cast iron won't.

Some of these things you can see, some you can't.
It's the reputation of the company that tell
you something about parts you can't see.
If you've never heard of the maker, or the
outfit that carries it won't stand behind the
chuck you're screwed if anything is wrong
or goes wrong with the chuck.

Just what you needed right - more decisons to
make. Sorry - but knowledge is power.

charlie b

Disclosu I have two SN2 chucks and ALL the
jaw sets for that chuck. I have no financial
connection to the maker, wholesaler or
retailer of the SuperNova2 and paid the
store price for the chucks and jaw sets.
I use them on a JET mini/midi and haven't
turned anything bigger than 9" in diameter
nor taller than about 6 inches.

Hi Brian, Charlie's review may be late, but not least. Good info
there. I'm even later, but since I know of no woodturning chuck with a
spring loaded key (hex, pin or pinion) I'm better late than never.

Generally there is no 'always' nor 'never' in woodturning, but NEVER
leave a key in a chuck. If you do, eventually you'll have a full English
Breakfast with the devil. ALWAYS remove a chuck key even for the instant
while tightening the tail center or blowing your nose. Less dangerous,
but NEVER spin the chuck hard against the spindle register and don't try
it to find out why.

BTW. I mostly know Southampton from getting on & off the boat, but I do
know Hamps. My son is an old Wykamist. "A Yank at Winchester" where they
"hold hots", but never "judge a sausage by its skin" or use the right
name for anything.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

In article ,
charlieb wrote:

Once again, late to a thread.

Things to look into when considering a chuck

1. Mechanism for tightening and loosening the jaws
SNIP
A jacobs chuck key (either a short one like used
on a drill press or on the end of a long T-handle)
permits one hand tightening and loosening of the
jaws - without the need for a spindle lock. BUT -
and there always seems to be a "but" - this type
of key only works when the long axis of the key
goes in square to the long axis of the chuck - on
a jacobs chuck or a lathe chuck. There are
times - on some forms - where that isn't possible.
THAT is a limiting factor for chuck keys.

A normal straight T-handled allen wrench mechanism
has the same problem as the T-handled chuck key.
However, a "ball end" allen wrench lets you tighten
the jaws with the wrench angled back some towards
the back of the chuck. This capability may not
ever be used, but having it and not needing it is
better than needing it and not having it.

Having a form cover the chuck key area is a real pain when it happens.
In addition to the ball end Allen wrench, there are "universal joint"
type wrenches to reach into a covered area. I believe they come in both
Jacobs as well as Allen configured.

SNIP
4. Jaw Sets - how easy are they to change?

When a chuck maker can figure out a secure quick-change design... Well,
Doggies! That'll be somethin'. Having scrolled my backing jaws out and
setting themback in, turning jaws attached to auxiliary sets of backing
jaws is no solution in my view.

SNIP
9. Are the interior moving parts protected
from dust, dirt, oils, waxes, blood, insects,
pitch, sap, . . . A chuck that works
smooth and flawless when right out of the
box - but binds and chunks in use is nice
to look at but a PITA to use over time.

I own 2 Vicmarc chucks with enclosed backs. Having said that, Oneway has
been making their chucks with open backs since the beginning. Their
chucks are top-of-the-line and they design everything so well, I'm
thinking this is really a non-issue. At least when comparing Oneway
chucks to others.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild

On Sat, 09 Feb 2008 16:32:06 GMT, Owen Lowe wrote:

Having a form cover the chuck key area is a real pain when it happens.

I don't understand this one... If the form covers the key area, how would it get
into the chuck at all?
Maybe I'm missing something here, but I've never put anything in the chuck and
not been able to reach the key hole...

If I had, I don't think I'd turn it as is, I'd add a glue block or something..
I have to be reading or visualizing the problem incorrectly..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

On Sat, 09 Feb 2008 16:32:06 GMT, Owen Lowe wrote:

Having a form cover the chuck key area is a real pain when it happens.

I don't understand this one... If the form covers the key area, how would it
get
into the chuck at all?
Maybe I'm missing something here, but I've never put anything in the chuck
and
not been able to reach the key hole...

If I had, I don't think I'd turn it as is, I'd add a glue block or
something..
I have to be reading or visualizing the problem incorrectly..

When I'm working on a bowl held with a tenon at the base, I'll shape the
outside, then begin hollowing the inside. If my design changes or I'd
like to shift things a bit, I'll find a new axis and in the process put
a tenon inside the bowl to be able to reshape and re-tenon the outside
bottom.

Doesn't happen very often.

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild

On Feb 9, 8:29*pm, mac davis wrote:
On Sat, 09 Feb 2008 16:32:06 GMT, Owen Lowe wrote:
Having a form cover the chuck key area is a real pain when it happens.

I don't understand this one... If the form covers the key area, how would it get
into the chuck at all?
Maybe I'm missing something here, but I've never put anything in the chuck and
not been able to reach the key hole...

If I had, I don't think I'd turn it as is, I'd add a glue block or something..
I have to be reading or visualizing the problem incorrectly..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

If you have a hollow form like a bowl that you want to hold with the
jaws from the inside, for whatever reason, it could cover your chuck,
however, if there's only a inch or two between the chuck and wood, you
couldn't get you ball-end hex-key in there either, so there's and
advantage only in limited cases.

In the case Owen is referring to, to turn a recess or spigot on the
inside so you could shift your axes over, one could do that, but it
would not be as easy as using a drive-spur in your chuck as I see it
anyway.

There are always cases where you have to work around limitations in
order to do certain things.

To come back to the jaws and chucks, where numbers of jaws available
to cover the gripping size from small to large, is seen as an
advantage,
I see them as a limitation, or the result of a limitation, as it is a
result of limited jaw travel being available on a chuck, and they are
always there, or else you would need only one set of jaws, .....but
having a chuck that has a longer travel, is a distinct advantage, as
one set of jaws is able to do more.
This also means less often changing jaws and less money invested in
more different size jaws and/or extra chucks.

The case of protruding jaws is in and by itself maybe seen as a
hazard, well granted they are hard, but so is the wood thats held in
the jaws, I don't think you'd be able to tell the difference if it was
a sharp corner of the wood that hit your knuckles or the chuck jaws,
but covering the jaws if protruding, with a soft and colored band
could help in that regard, a little hard to do to the wood you are
turning, :-)) so DO be aware of what you are doing, or you could get
seriously hurt if you don't !!!
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

wrote in message
...
On Feb 9, 8:29 pm, mac davis wrote:
On Sat, 09 Feb 2008 16:32:06 GMT, Owen Lowe wrote:
Having a form cover the chuck key area is a real pain when it happens.


If you have a hollow form like a bowl that you want to hold with the
jaws from the inside, for whatever reason, it could cover your chuck,
however, if there's only a inch or two between the chuck and wood, you
couldn't get you ball-end hex-key in there either, so there's and
advantage only in limited cases.

You could also use a pin chuck to handle such cases. Once again, rare to
change based on inside with no sign outside, but a new hole equals a new
hold.


To come back to the jaws and chucks, where numbers of jaws available
to cover the gripping size from small to large, is seen as an
advantage,
I see them as a limitation, or the result of a limitation, as it is a
result of limited jaw travel being available on a chuck, and they are
always there, or else you would need only one set of jaws, .....but
having a chuck that has a longer travel, is a distinct advantage, as
one set of jaws is able to do more.
This also means less often changing jaws and less money invested in
more different size jaws and/or extra chucks.


Of course there is an advantage in jaw choice over jaw travel. Circularity
is achieved at only one point, and that is the key to holding the piece well
and undamaged. Long travel means less-than-optimum holds must now rely on
less force per unit of contact area, often crushing that which they hold.
If you like, you can avoid a step or two and finish up the bottom of a piece
before you hollow it, leaving no need for vacuum chucks or jam chucks.

Jaws with wider faces are especially well-suited for tenons because they
don't take much wood to fill a circular center, and provide a large bearing
surface to stabilize against the shoulder.

On Sun, 10 Feb 2008 00:08:31 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:
snip
To come back to the jaws and chucks, where numbers of jaws available
to cover the gripping size from small to large, is seen as an
advantage,
I see them as a limitation, or the result of a limitation, as it is a
result of limited jaw travel being available on a chuck, and they are
always there, or else you would need only one set of jaws, .....but
having a chuck that has a longer travel, is a distinct advantage, as
one set of jaws is able to do more.
This also means less often changing jaws and less money invested in
more different size jaws and/or extra chucks.

I have about 4 different jaw sets for my Talon, Leo, and find that as I get more
experienced, I use the different sets very little..

The #2 jaws that came with the chuck seem to work for most of my turning, the
spigot jaws are used once in a while for something special..
I added a 2nd talon a few years ago for guest turners and it has the spigots on
it just in case.. *g*

The jumbo jaws gather dust since I went to a vacuum system and the smaller jaw
set (#1 or 3??) never did get much use..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I use the #2 jaws that came with my One Way mostly but also the #1 for small
spindle work and rarely the larger #3s wherever they are. The homemade jumbo
jaws get use for bowl bottoms and the homemade high jaws for mallets and
gavels. Note that I hardly ever use a chuck for bowls, mostly for spindle
work or hollow forms and those are more likely on a face plate.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Feb 2008 00:08:31 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:
snip
To come back to the jaws and chucks, where numbers of jaws available
to cover the gripping size from small to large, is seen as an
advantage,
I see them as a limitation, or the result of a limitation, as it is a
result of limited jaw travel being available on a chuck, and they are
always there, or else you would need only one set of jaws, .....but
having a chuck that has a longer travel, is a distinct advantage, as
one set of jaws is able to do more.
This also means less often changing jaws and less money invested in
more different size jaws and/or extra chucks.

I have about 4 different jaw sets for my Talon, Leo, and find that as I
get more
experienced, I use the different sets very little..

The #2 jaws that came with the chuck seem to work for most of my turning,
the
spigot jaws are used once in a while for something special..
I added a 2nd talon a few years ago for guest turners and it has the
spigots on
it just in case.. *g*

The jumbo jaws gather dust since I went to a vacuum system and the smaller
jaw
set (#1 or 3??) never did get much use..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

charlieb wrote:
1. Mechanism for tightening and loosening the jaws

TWO tomy bars means there's no hand to hold the
part being chucked while the jaws are snugged to

Only if you're a complete spaz. I've never had any trouble finding two
nearly adjacent holes for the tommy bars, allowing them to be easily
manipulated by only one hand. Much easier than chopsticks and a quarter
of the world has no trouble with those...


....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357, http://counter.li.org

"Kevin Miller" wrote in message
...
charlieb wrote:
1. Mechanism for tightening and loosening the jaws

TWO tomy bars means there's no hand to hold the
part being chucked while the jaws are snugged to

Only if you're a complete spaz. I've never had any trouble finding two
nearly adjacent holes for the tommy bars, allowing them to be easily
manipulated by only one hand. Much easier than chopsticks and a quarter
of the world has no trouble with those...


Even easier when you let the weight of the piece rest on your third hand -
the tailstock.

Wouldn't that be nearer a half than a quarter, even given modernization?

Well, that`s sorted out now !

I went to the Woodwork Exhibition at Alexandria Palace Yesterday, took the
plunge and purchased the Robert Sorby Patriot chuck [
http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/ ] and a couple of sets of jaws " to get me
going " !.

Without putting it on the Lathe yet, I can see it is a nicely engineered
piece of gear. The action is silky smooth, and there is no play in the jaws
whatever. All the jaws are matched so there is no number matching needed,
and it came with a nice T-handled ball wrench. One slight "drawback" , that
probably will never bother me, is the lack of any form of indexing on the
chuck.

I also picked up a few blanks at the show ( Yew, Camphor, Purpleheart and a
nice piece of Ebony, so I can`t wait to get down the shed and give it a
whirl, - have wood, will turn !

All the best n many thanks for all the info etc !

Have fun, be safe

Brian.

"brian white" wrote in message
...
Well, that`s sorted out now !

I went to the Woodwork Exhibition at Alexandria Palace Yesterday, took
the plunge and purchased the Robert Sorby Patriot chuck [
http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/ ] and a couple of sets of jaws " to get
me going " !.

Without putting it on the Lathe yet, I can see it is a nicely engineered
piece of gear. The action is silky smooth, and there is no play in the
jaws whatever. All the jaws are matched so there is no number matching
needed, and it came with a nice T-handled ball wrench. One slight
"drawback" , that probably will never bother me, is the lack of any form
of indexing on the chuck.

Hope you got the pin jaws. Great way to start things out.

Your lathe lacks indexing?

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 23:25:16 GMT, "George" wrote:


"brian white" wrote in message
...
Well, that`s sorted out now !

I went to the Woodwork Exhibition at Alexandria Palace Yesterday, took
the plunge and purchased the Robert Sorby Patriot chuck [
http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/ ] and a couple of sets of jaws " to get
me going " !.

Without putting it on the Lathe yet, I can see it is a nicely engineered
piece of gear. The action is silky smooth, and there is no play in the
jaws whatever. All the jaws are matched so there is no number matching
needed, and it came with a nice T-handled ball wrench. One slight
"drawback" , that probably will never bother me, is the lack of any form
of indexing on the chuck.

Hope you got the pin jaws. Great way to start things out.

Your lathe lacks indexing?

I think he meant the chuck, George...DO chucks have indexing?

(I've never used indexing on the lathe, either)


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...

One slight
"drawback" , that probably will never bother me, is the lack of any
form
of indexing on the chuck.

Hope you got the pin jaws. Great way to start things out.

Your lathe lacks indexing?

I think he meant the chuck, George...DO chucks have indexing?

(I've never used indexing on the lathe, either)

Yep, I've seen pictures.

Indexing is nice for spoked wheels and flutes in columns, as well as French
dovetails in candlestands.

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 23:25:16 GMT, "George" wrote:


"brian white" wrote in message
...
Well, that`s sorted out now !

I went to the Woodwork Exhibition at Alexandria Palace Yesterday, took
the plunge and purchased the Robert Sorby Patriot chuck [
http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/ ] and a couple of sets of jaws " to get
me going " !.

Without putting it on the Lathe yet, I can see it is a nicely engineered
piece of gear. The action is silky smooth, and there is no play in the
jaws whatever. All the jaws are matched so there is no number matching
needed, and it came with a nice T-handled ball wrench. One slight
"drawback" , that probably will never bother me, is the lack of any form
of indexing on the chuck.

Hope you got the pin jaws. Great way to start things out.

Your lathe lacks indexing?

I think he meant the chuck, George...DO chucks have indexing?

(I've never used indexing on the lathe, either)


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

PS, don't use the index lock on your DVR-XP to lock the head to remove a
chuck

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Tue, 12 Feb 2008 09:49:10 GMT, "George" wrote:


Indexing is nice for spoked wheels and flutes in columns, as well as French
dovetails in candlestands.

Thanks, George.. I guess since I've never tried any of the above, I've never
come across it in instructions or anything..

I'm guessing that you use it to find or mark sections of a cylinder?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Tue, 12 Feb 2008 05:37:57 -0800, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:


PS, don't use the index lock on your DVR-XP to lock the head to remove a chuck

Yeah, Ralph.. I don't, but the manual seemed confusing until I realized that it
said it's ok to use the spindle lock to thread stuff ON the spindle, but not to
take it off..

I'm sort of leery of spindle locks since I broke a fin off mine on the Jet...

On the XP, it seems to work well to put the drift bar through the handwheel.. if
I need more leverage, I let the rod go down to the headstock alignment pin..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing