I was talking to my brother about planer snipe and he said that he hasn't had
any in years, since he GAVE UP adjusting his in-out feed tables..

This sounds kinda wackey to me, but he cut a melamine board to the width of his
planer bed and 4' long and clamped it INSIDE the planer..

Besides the obvious height/thickness problem, would this actually work?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

I was talking to my brother about planer snipe and he said that he hasn't had
any in years, since he GAVE UP adjusting his in-out feed tables..

This sounds kinda wackey to me, but he cut a melamine board to the width of
his
planer bed and 4' long and clamped it INSIDE the planer..

Besides the obvious height/thickness problem, would this actually work?

It does help, and if you have the room, an 8 foot melamine surface is
even better than 4 feet. You only lose 3/4 inch or so of thickness, and
it's rare to need it all. On the other hand, you might want to give
hand-planing a look for an even better result, no thickness or width
constraint, and a whole lot quieter.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Yes.

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
I was talking to my brother about planer snipe and he said that he hasn't
had
any in years, since he GAVE UP adjusting his in-out feed tables..

This sounds kinda wackey to me, but he cut a melamine board to the width
of his
planer bed and 4' long and clamped it INSIDE the planer..

Besides the obvious height/thickness problem, would this actually work?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 00:56:39 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote:

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

I was talking to my brother about planer snipe and he said that he hasn't had
any in years, since he GAVE UP adjusting his in-out feed tables..

This sounds kinda wackey to me, but he cut a melamine board to the width of
his
planer bed and 4' long and clamped it INSIDE the planer..

Besides the obvious height/thickness problem, would this actually work?

It does help, and if you have the room, an 8 foot melamine surface is
even better than 4 feet. You only lose 3/4 inch or so of thickness, and
it's rare to need it all. On the other hand, you might want to give
hand-planing a look for an even better result, no thickness or width
constraint, and a whole lot quieter.

Thanks.. I might try it..
Maybe my brother isn't as nutz as I thought..

Nah, he's pretty spaced out.. lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Jan 24, 10:46*pm, mac davis wrote:
On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 00:56:39 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote:





In article ,
mac davis wrote:

I was talking to my brother about planer snipe and he said that he hasn't had
any in years, since he GAVE UP adjusting his in-out feed tables..

This sounds kinda wackey to me, but he cut a melamine board to the width of
his
planer bed and 4' long and clamped it INSIDE the planer..

Besides the obvious height/thickness problem, would this actually work?

It does help, and if you have the room, an 8 foot melamine surface is
even better than 4 feet. You only lose 3/4 inch or so of thickness, and
it's rare to need it all. On the other hand, you might want to give
hand-planing a look for an even better result, no thickness or width
constraint, and a whole lot quieter.

Thanks.. I might try it..
Maybe my brother isn't as nutz as I thought..

Nah, he's pretty spaced out.. lol

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi
I find if I push a stick right behind the stick I am planing I don't
get snipe on either at this intersection

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
I was talking to my brother about planer snipe and he said that he hasn't
had
any in years, since he GAVE UP adjusting his in-out feed tables..

This sounds kinda wackey to me, but he cut a melamine board to the width
of his
planer bed and 4' long and clamped it INSIDE the planer..

Besides the obvious height/thickness problem, would this actually work?


Sure. Cuts down on the angle the board can achieve tipping up into the
cutter or down out of it. Those with lunchbox planers lacking good pressure
rollers and chipbreakers often use this, as well as the waste follow or
angled entry to control snipe. If you feed with the trailing end of the
board elevated slightly at entry and elevate the leading end as it exits,
you can control it perfectly as well.

Downside is the drag, of course.

Hey Mac.. I have the Dewalt 735. I stopped 99% of my snip by
setting the in and out feed tables angled up about 1/8 inch. The
only snip comes from a very long piece (8 ft) that I forget to
support on the out feed side.

mac davis wrote:

I was talking to my brother about planer snipe and he said that he hasn't had
any in years, since he GAVE UP adjusting his in-out feed tables..

This sounds kinda wackey to me, but he cut a melamine board to the width of his
planer bed and 4' long and clamped it INSIDE the planer..

Besides the obvious height/thickness problem, would this actually work?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 11:09:50 GMT, "George" wrote:


"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
I was talking to my brother about planer snipe and he said that he hasn't
had
any in years, since he GAVE UP adjusting his in-out feed tables..

This sounds kinda wackey to me, but he cut a melamine board to the width
of his
planer bed and 4' long and clamped it INSIDE the planer..

Besides the obvious height/thickness problem, would this actually work?


Sure. Cuts down on the angle the board can achieve tipping up into the
cutter or down out of it. Those with lunchbox planers lacking good pressure
rollers and chipbreakers often use this, as well as the waste follow or
angled entry to control snipe. If you feed with the trailing end of the
board elevated slightly at entry and elevate the leading end as it exits,
you can control it perfectly as well.

Downside is the drag, of course.

Makes sense.. I have the Ridgid 2 blade model, that I might turn on some day...
To much fun turning to do flat work.. *g*


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing