Hi to the group....anyone out there have a good source for colored or dyed
veneers ranging from 1/32" thru 1/8" thickness. Any help is appreciated.

TIA, John

On Nov 23, 2:01 pm, "John" wrote:
Hi to the group....anyone out there have a good source for colored or dyed
veneers ranging from 1/32" thru 1/8" thickness. Any help is appreciated.

TIA, John

Hi John, I get 1/16" black veneer from constantines.com
They used to have a few colors in 1/16" but I don't see them on their
site anymore.
You might call them. I've used their black for years and it is very
good quality.
If I need a thick color I use 4 layers of the thin stuff. I think its
1/50. I know its a pain but it does work.
If I need 1/8" I bandsaw regular lumber.
Bob
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com

On Nov 23, 2:01 pm, "John" wrote:
Hi to the group....anyone out there have a good source for colored or dyed
veneers ranging from 1/32" thru 1/8" thickness. Any help is appreciated.

TIA, John

Woodcraft has a good selection of various colored veneers. Don't know
the thickness. (I'd guess around 1/40 inch.)
www.woodcraft.com.
Good people to deal with.
(Insert the usual 'no affiliation' clause here.)

Tom in Merritt Island, FL

On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 13:01:19 -0600, "John"
wrote:

Hi to the group....anyone out there have a good source for colored or dyed
veneers ranging from 1/32" thru 1/8" thickness. Any help is appreciated.

This might sound a little wierd, but I assure you, it looks great.

I'd get any old veneer, and "paint" it with ink. If black is what you
need, india ink works well, but any color can be made by mixing the
ink from printer cartridge refill kits as needed- Sam's Club used to
sell one for about $20 that came with five pint-sized bottles of the
stuff (one of each of the primary colors, and two black)

Like I said, it sounds a little wierd, but veneer is more than thin
enough for the ink to soak all the way through, and the ink is
translucent enough to leave the wood grain visible- and it does not
splotch on tough woods the way stain does.

And, if you want to be more wood-working correct, you could get
analine dye instead, which will do the same job. Only problem is that
the dye costs more, and doesn't really look any better.

Just make sure to test the topcoat before finishing, to make sure it's
not going to dissolve the ink. The stuff I use for ebonizing is
alcohol soluable, so shellac is out. You get the idea.

Thanks Prometheus for the information. I probably should have gone into a
little more detail on what I planned for the colored or dyed veneers. They
will be used for colored accents on the designs for segmented turnings. I've
only been turning for about 2 years now since I retired and any help is
appreciated.
I will give your suggestions a try at least for the black because I have
some old walnut veneer. I'll have to wait on the other colors as the nearest
Sam's Club is 116 miles away. Still need a supplier of veneer so if you or
anyone reading this post has one, please direct me to that site.

Thanks again,
John


"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Nov 2007 13:01:19 -0600, "John"
wrote:

Hi to the group....anyone out there have a good source for colored or
dyed
veneers ranging from 1/32" thru 1/8" thickness. Any help is appreciated.

This might sound a little wierd, but I assure you, it looks great.

I'd get any old veneer, and "paint" it with ink. If black is what you
need, india ink works well, but any color can be made by mixing the
ink from printer cartridge refill kits as needed- Sam's Club used to
sell one for about $20 that came with five pint-sized bottles of the
stuff (one of each of the primary colors, and two black)

Like I said, it sounds a little wierd, but veneer is more than thin
enough for the ink to soak all the way through, and the ink is
translucent enough to leave the wood grain visible- and it does not
splotch on tough woods the way stain does.

And, if you want to be more wood-working correct, you could get
analine dye instead, which will do the same job. Only problem is that
the dye costs more, and doesn't really look any better.

Just make sure to test the topcoat before finishing, to make sure it's
not going to dissolve the ink. The stuff I use for ebonizing is
alcohol soluable, so shellac is out. You get the idea.

John wrote:
Thanks Prometheus for the information. I probably should have gone into a
little more detail on what I planned for the colored or dyed veneers. They
will be used for colored accents on the designs for segmented turnings. I've
only been turning for about 2 years now since I retired and any help is
appreciated.
I will give your suggestions a try at least for the black because I have
some old walnut veneer. I'll have to wait on the other colors as the nearest
Sam's Club is 116 miles away. Still need a supplier of veneer so if you or
anyone reading this post has one, please direct me to that site.

Thanks again,
John


If you want different veneers in various species (not dyed/colored).
take a look at "Certainly Wood":

http://www.certainlywood.com/

They are a supplier in my area.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

John wrote:


I'll have to wait on the other colors as the nearest
: Sam's Club is 116 miles away.

Yes. but the web is but a few clicksaway -- order online.

I'm pretty sure Certainly Wood stocks various colors of dyed veneers, some thicker than usual, so
I'd give them a call.

-- Andy Barss

On Dec 1, 9:15 am, Prometheus wrote:

fill kits as needed- Sam's Club used to
sell one for about $20 that came with five pint- sized bottles of the stuff (one of each of the primary colors, and two black)

Damnit Fireman, wish you had that on the boards a couple of weeks
ago. That's a great idea. I am struggling with some of the dye
colors, and only need a little bit for ornaments, etc. You know there
is always just a little bit left in each cartridge, and even Big Lots
has those refill kits every once in a while, and they are about $10.

I use a lot of Behlens Solar Lux dye and swear by it, but I hate
having to pull it out, cut it down so that it will be translucent (1
part dye, 3 parts anhydrous alcohol for anyone interested) so you can
see the grain.

Excellent suggestion.

Now maybe I can help anyone worried about runs, splotchiness and
ruining of their dye job. Before final finishing, "fix" the color (or
simply finish) with a rattle can of high quality lacquer. I spray on
the lathe with newspaper on the ways, and the holding device taped off
with any kind of wide tape I have.

After you put a coat of lacquer on, it is awfully easy to just put
another coat on 20 minutes later... then another if needed twenty
after that and be finished.
And dyes and lacquers are wonderful together, much better than stains.

Robert

Do not forget marker pens when staining ornaments. Use the permanent
markers. Just apply while the piece turns and then wash with methanol to
even any markings. Translucent and easy application.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
wrote in message
...
On Dec 1, 9:15 am, Prometheus wrote:

fill kits as needed- Sam's Club used to
sell one for about $20 that came with five pint- sized bottles of the
stuff (one of each of the primary colors, and two black)

Damnit Fireman, wish you had that on the boards a couple of weeks
ago. That's a great idea. I am struggling with some of the dye
colors, and only need a little bit for ornaments, etc. You know there
is always just a little bit left in each cartridge, and even Big Lots
has those refill kits every once in a while, and they are about $10.

I use a lot of Behlens Solar Lux dye and swear by it, but I hate
having to pull it out, cut it down so that it will be translucent (1
part dye, 3 parts anhydrous alcohol for anyone interested) so you can
see the grain.

Excellent suggestion.

Now maybe I can help anyone worried about runs, splotchiness and
ruining of their dye job. Before final finishing, "fix" the color (or
simply finish) with a rattle can of high quality lacquer. I spray on
the lathe with newspaper on the ways, and the holding device taped off
with any kind of wide tape I have.

After you put a coat of lacquer on, it is awfully easy to just put
another coat on 20 minutes later... then another if needed twenty
after that and be finished.
And dyes and lacquers are wonderful together, much better than stains.

Robert