I have been debating about using a riser on the bandsaw for a while now.
Since I just ordered three more blades from Tufftooth (yes that is a
recommendation on my part) it will be a while if ever before I do it.
Frankly I prefer to round large bowl blanks with a chainsaw. However, I like
to resaw now and then and am debating about using a riser on the saw. It is
a 20 year old (at least) 10" (not 14") Rockwell/Beaver. That said I would
have to make a riser block on my own to work and I wonder if it is worth it.
At present it does a nice job on 5 1/2" maple even dry but occasionally I
would like to resaw thicker for guiter tops and backs. 3 more inches would
make a hugh difference.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 23:18:10 +0000, Darrell Feltmate wrote:

I have been debating about using a riser on the bandsaw for a while now.

You've probably already thought of this, but size the riser block so the
result will fit a commonly available blade length.

It might be difficult to make one that would be rigid enough to stand the
stress of blade tension without flexing - of course I've heard that can be
a problem on the manufactured ones as well.

Hi Darrell
Yes it could be done, is it worthwhile ??? not for me, but it's you
that has to decide.
The saw blades wouldn't be much of a problem, as you order them and
have them made to size.
Motor power is one that might be more of a problem, as you need more
for thicker wood.
Then you would have to make a riser block (not from wood IMO) a solid
block of aluminium you could machine and drill, also the saw guard
front and back you do need them longer, and you will need to align the
wheels and probably need to drill some holes to install roll pins so
the parts will stay aligned.
IMO you'd be better of selling the saw you have and get a bigger one
new or used.
Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Nov 9, 6:18 pm, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:
I have been debating about using a riser on the bandsaw for a while now.
Since I just ordered three more blades from Tufftooth (yes that is a
recommendation on my part) it will be a while if ever before I do it.
Frankly I prefer to round large bowl blanks with a chainsaw. However, I like
to resaw now and then and am debating about using a riser on the saw. It is
a 20 year old (at least) 10" (not 14") Rockwell/Beaver. That said I would
have to make a riser block on my own to work and I wonder if it is worth it.
At present it does a nice job on 5 1/2" maple even dry but occasionally I
would like to resaw thicker for guiter tops and backs. 3 more inches would
make a hugh difference.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canadahttp://aroundthewoods.comhttp://roundopinions.blogspot.com

It would not be at all difficult to make a rigid riser block. All the
commercial ones I have ever seen had no rigidity problems. The flex often
encountered is the saw frame. It was designed to be rigid in stock form. By
adding a riser, you increase the lever arm for the blade and cutting forces
to work against. Riser blocks are a relatively cheap way to get more
capacity but a saw so equipped rarely will be equal to a larger saw designed
for the purpose.


"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 23:18:10 +0000, Darrell Feltmate wrote:

I have been debating about using a riser on the bandsaw for a while now.

You've probably already thought of this, but size the riser block so the
result will fit a commonly available blade length.

It might be difficult to make one that would be rigid enough to stand the
stress of blade tension without flexing - of course I've heard that can be
a problem on the manufactured ones as well.

Darrell,
The second best Christmas present I got myself was my Laguna 16HD
bandsaw, with the best one being my PM3520. I never use my electric
chainsaw any more, and I only use the gas ones to get things into bite
sized chunks that I can get onto my saw table. For a while I did the
chainsaw roughing and it worked. Now, I would never go back. I never
realized how much time I spent roughing out the blanks on the lathe.
Imagine starting out with a blank that is already round, and needs
almost no roughing to get to where you are thinking about form and
shape. I would guess that it is about 1/3 the total time I spend
turning a bowl. I also think that the bandsaw is safer than the
chainsaw, and is faster for me, even if some one else who knows what
they are doing sharpens the chainsaw for me. You can use it inside,
and not worry about disturbing the neighbors. Keep the smaller saw for
rounding the blanks, and get a bigger saw for resawing and making
bigger bowl blanks. They are specialized tools, and work better.
robo hippy

On Nov 9, 5:57 pm, "CW" wrote:
It would not be at all difficult to make a rigid riser block. All the
commercial ones I have ever seen had no rigidity problems. The flex often
encountered is the saw frame. It was designed to be rigid in stock form. By
adding a riser, you increase the lever arm for the blade and cutting forces
to work against. Riser blocks are a relatively cheap way to get more
capacity but a saw so equipped rarely will be equal to a larger saw designed
for the purpose.

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message

news
On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 23:18:10 +0000, Darrell Feltmate wrote:

I have been debating about using a riser on the bandsaw for a while now.

You've probably already thought of this, but size the riser block so the
result will fit a commonly available blade length.

It might be difficult to make one that would be rigid enough to stand the
stress of blade tension without flexing - of course I've heard that can be
a problem on the manufactured ones as well.

On Nov 9, 6:18 pm, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:
I have been debating about using a riser on the bandsaw for a while now.
Since I just ordered three more blades from Tufftooth (yes that is a
recommendation on my part) it will be a while if ever before I do it.
Frankly I prefer to round large bowl blanks with a chainsaw. However, I like
to resaw now and then and am debating about using a riser on the saw. It is
a 20 year old (at least) 10" (not 14") Rockwell/Beaver. That said I would
have to make a riser block on my own to work and I wonder if it is worth it.
At present it does a nice job on 5 1/2" maple even dry but occasionally I
would like to resaw thicker for guiter tops and backs. 3 more inches would
make a hugh difference.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canadahttp://aroundthewoods.comhttp://roundopinions.blogspot.com

Darrell
I have just been down that road so let me tell you a story,
I own a 1970's Canadian Rockwell 14" and decided to go for a riser. I
managed to get a Delta one from the Internet for $120. I had to do
some grinding of the webs in the frame to get the longer bolt in but
apart from that all fitted pretty well. I was not impressed with the
quality and machining of the guard extensions and had to do some
tweaking. I buy my blades from Spence Distributiors in Manitioa
http://www.spencedistributors.com/index.cfm and ordered 5 blades for
the new 105" length. I found the 3/4 HP motor was really underpowered
and feed rates were very slow. So I upgraded to a new 1HP 220v
motorand still had the same problem on anything over 8" thick. I was
cutting green wood with a 1/2" 3TPI blade.
Now I have a 20" General with a 2HP 220v motor and it's unstoppable
even with 12" of wet honey locust using the same type of blade.
I went back to the 14" Rockwell and did a lot of investigating and
found the riser block had put the wheels out of alignment vertically
and horizontally so i dis some grinding and filing and got everything
back true. It still won't handle anything over 8" without a very slow
feed speed.
So is a riser worth it? NO

Hi Darrell,

I have the Harbor Freight saw and bought their riser block kit. It was
around $50 usd about 6 years ago. As an aside I would now get the Grizzly
saw as it has all the upgrades I put into the HF saw included for less than
I spent for saw and upgrades. It has a 1hp motor that handles the load
quite well. The saw seems to be rigid enough to handle the 3/4 inch rip
blade that I use much of the time and I have cut hardwood blanks as well as
ripping up to about 10 inch boards. I have done resaw that was so good I
hardly needed to sand (using carbide blades) and have made venier that was
about 1/64th inch thick. I have done boxes including several octagnal ones
that all the cuts were done on the saw and were right on.

The frame was rigid enough to take the block without much flex. The motor
was plenty strong to take the bigger blade and the load of the bigger work
pieces. But I still wish I could have gotten that 36 inch ships saw several
years ago (of course at $400 it would have been a steal except for the
$20,000 shop I would have had to build around it).

Is it worth it, maybe. Won't hurt to try it out and see if it works for
you, especially if you make your own block.

Brian

On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 23:18:10 GMT, "Darrell Feltmate"
wrote:

I have been debating about using a riser on the bandsaw for a while now.
Since I just ordered three more blades from Tufftooth (yes that is a
recommendation on my part) it will be a while if ever before I do it.
Frankly I prefer to round large bowl blanks with a chainsaw. However, I like
to resaw now and then and am debating about using a riser on the saw. It is
a 20 year old (at least) 10" (not 14") Rockwell/Beaver. That said I would
have to make a riser block on my own to work and I wonder if it is worth it.
At present it does a nice job on 5 1/2" maple even dry but occasionally I
would like to resaw thicker for guiter tops and backs. 3 more inches would
make a hugh difference.

If anyone can do it, you can, oh blacksmith friend...

I know that you're always aware of safety issues, so be aware that when you buy
a riser KIT, it's more than the block for the frame..
You also need a longer guide height adjuster bar, longer front and back blade
guards, etc...

Also knowing that you have been known to squeeze a penny into a dime, I won't
give the usual advise to just go buy a bigger saw.. ;-]

I like the extra 6" clearance on my 14" saw, thought I seldom "need" it..
One thing that it really helps is if you want to add a shop-made table, you can
make it an extra 1/2"thick if you want without worrying about losing critical
clearance..
Also, I'm a little over 6' tall and while not a giant, I like the frame being 6"
higher and more out of my line of sight to the blade..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Hi gang, I am a little confused by this term "Riser", is it an
Americanism or just a technical term I have not come across before. Could
someone explain what a Riser does, where it fits etc.
Thanks all
Hotfoot.


"mac davis" wrote in message
...
: On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 23:18:10 GMT, "Darrell Feltmate"
: wrote:
:
: I have been debating about using a riser on the bandsaw for a while now.
: Since I just ordered three more blades from Tufftooth (yes that is a
: recommendation on my part) it will be a while if ever before I do it.
: Frankly I prefer to round large bowl blanks with a chainsaw. However, I
like
: to resaw now and then and am debating about using a riser on the saw. It
is
: a 20 year old (at least) 10" (not 14") Rockwell/Beaver. That said I would
: have to make a riser block on my own to work and I wonder if it is worth
it.
: At present it does a nice job on 5 1/2" maple even dry but occasionally I
: would like to resaw thicker for guiter tops and backs. 3 more inches
would
: make a hugh difference.
:
: If anyone can do it, you can, oh blacksmith friend...
:
: I know that you're always aware of safety issues, so be aware that when
you buy
: a riser KIT, it's more than the block for the frame..
: You also need a longer guide height adjuster bar, longer front and back
blade
: guards, etc...
:
: Also knowing that you have been known to squeeze a penny into a dime, I
won't
: give the usual advise to just go buy a bigger saw.. ;-]
:
: I like the extra 6" clearance on my 14" saw, thought I seldom "need" it..
: One thing that it really helps is if you want to add a shop-made table,
you can
: make it an extra 1/2"thick if you want without worrying about losing
critical
: clearance..
: Also, I'm a little over 6' tall and while not a giant, I like the frame
being 6"
: higher and more out of my line of sight to the blade..
:
:
: mac
:
: Please remove splinters before emailing

"rosemary Wright" wrote in message
...
Hi gang, I am a little confused by this term "Riser", is it an
Americanism or just a technical term I have not come across before. Could
someone explain what a Riser does, where it fits etc.
Thanks all
Hotfoot.

It increases the cutting depth of the saw by raising the upper wheel.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...5&cookietest=1 For the average
14" saw, it's normally a 6" "rise" over the table.

One assumes it comes from the same root concept as those old rise and run
references used in staircases and landings.

one might call it a "shim" also, albeit a fat shim - you unscrew the big
huge bolt that holds the top casting of your bandsaw to the bottom casting,
insert this "riser" in between the two castings, thus making them farther
apart, add a longer blade and you are set to go.

on my cheap clone of a delta bandsaw, the cloners didn't account for metal
shrinkage (they must have used a real delta as the pattern for the mold
directly) and so it required a blade about and inch shorter than standard -
so I added a 1/2 inch piece of aluminum scrap between the two halves and
it's been fine for the last 20 years. (well, "fine" except for when the
support for the upper wheel fatigued and failed (pot metal) - new one made
out of aluminum sheet will now last forever)
"rosemary Wright" wrote in message
...
Hi gang, I am a little confused by this term "Riser", is it an
Americanism or just a technical term I have not come across before. Could
someone explain what a Riser does, where it fits etc.
Thanks all
Hotfoot.





--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 17:00:13 GMT, "George" wrote:


"rosemary Wright" wrote in message
...
Hi gang, I am a little confused by this term "Riser", is it an
Americanism or just a technical term I have not come across before. Could
someone explain what a Riser does, where it fits etc.
Thanks all
Hotfoot.

It increases the cutting depth of the saw by raising the upper wheel.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...5&cookietest=1 For the average
14" saw, it's normally a 6" "rise" over the table.

One assumes it comes from the same root concept as those old rise and run
references used in staircases and landings.

Maybe they didn't like using "raiser"..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing