Quite some while ago I asked for tips on how to properly cut logs with
my chainsaw. I really liked the one someone suggested about the
up/down hill cutting for going length wise along the grain. And
especially the one about trying a new chain to see how it compares
with the original one that came with the saw when I bought it.
I picked up a new chain last night and why not, for only $12 more
there was a special on an 18" bar & chain so my 16 incher got upgraded
in the process. Just came in for a sandwich after trying them tips
this morning. Things went lickedy split split split and now I can save
some chunks for turning instead of only [fireplace] burning next time
I get a load of fresh road kill. After 3 hours the chain is still
sharp, who knew ))
Thanks a lot folks!
Bart.
-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
=== www.haruteq.com ===

Your best friend when it comes to selecting chains and bars for your saw
is http://www.oregonchain.com/index.htm. There is a wealth of
information, a selector where you can tell them what saw you have, all
sorts of good stuff. You can spend a few hours looking around on the
site and will probably learn a lot -- I did.

I'm using a Shindaiwa 488 and up until last weekend, used the chain and
bar it came with. I was working on a honey-do, hit a rock, and while I
was able to get the chain back into some usable condition, took the
opportunity to upgrade.

I heard good words from a turning friend about the knowledgeable people
who run J and B Equipment in Elkton KY so gave them a call. Whomever
you talk to, you need to make sure that they know you are a woodturner
because we do a lot more ripping than the tree guys. After some
discussion, I ended up with a Power Match bar and a 20LP072G chain.
This is a 'pro' chain. It has some anti-kickback features but is not as
safe to use as the consumer chains. It is a lot more aggressive. The
combination makes my great little saw into an even greater saw. They
assured me I'd be happy with the chain and bar and I am.

If you use the site to make a selection, then you cam link to the
various dealers around the country to get pricing on whatever you have
picked out. Beware -- there are significant price differences among the
various dealers.

Forget the big box stores -- all they have is consumer chains and no
real information. On the other hand, if you are not sure about your
technique, stick with the consumer safety chains.

And in closing... writing this message just cost me money. I looked at
their invoice for the first time to get the name of the company right,
and discovered that they only charged me for one chain when I ordered
and they sent two. I'll call them in the morning.

Bill

Bart V wrote:
Quite some while ago I asked for tips on how to properly cut logs with
my chainsaw. I really liked the one someone suggested about the
up/down hill cutting for going length wise along the grain. And
especially the one about trying a new chain to see how it compares
with the original one that came with the saw when I bought it.
I picked up a new chain last night and why not, for only $12 more
there was a special on an 18" bar & chain so my 16 incher got upgraded
in the process. Just came in for a sandwich after trying them tips
this morning. Things went lickedy split split split and now I can save
some chunks for turning instead of only [fireplace] burning next time
I get a load of fresh road kill. After 3 hours the chain is still
sharp, who knew ))
Thanks a lot folks!
Bart.
-
**botox treatments: taxidermy on the living**

Email replies via: www.haruteq.com/contact.htm
awesome banjo bridges, tabs, stained glass:
=== www.haruteq.com ===