I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available
now and would like to seal the end grain for future use. Anchorseal is
not available easily in this area and seems expensive. Has anyone
tried a couple of coats of old left over latex paint on the expsosed
ends or does anyone think this will work?
MinnJim

I've used it, and it slows down the cracking.

Exterior seems to be better, but the latex film seems to have a bit of
stretch to it, so it doesn't crack right away with the wood.

Better plan on using it within a year though.

Old Guy
In Minnesota, where the tools are shivering


"MinnJim" wrote in message
ps.com...
I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available
now and would like to seal the end grain for future use. Anchorseal is
not available easily in this area and seems expensive. Has anyone
tried a couple of coats of old left over latex paint on the expsosed
ends or does anyone think this will work?
MinnJim

Hi Jim

Jim, Latex paint does slow the drying down very little, You know that
painting with oil paint on wet wood you'll get bubbles, latex does
not, it lets the water through.
I have more luck with strapping a plastic bag around the ends, or
using Anchorseal, and then it helps only for so long, depending where
you are able to place that wood.
Off of the ground, out of the sun and out of the wind, does increase
the time you'll be able to store it, that's the way I do it, good
luck.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Jan 27, 8:28 am, "MinnJim" wrote:
I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available
now and would like to seal the end grain for future use. Anchorseal is
not available easily in this area and seems expensive. Has anyone
tried a couple of coats of old left over latex paint on the expsosed
ends or does anyone think this will work?
MinnJim

It is better than nothing, but may not provide such a good barrier and is really designed for use on dry wood, so I think it would need inspecting periodically to make sure it isn't peeling off. If the wood is frozen you may want to let it warm up some before painting it.

FWIW, whenever I see boards that have been painted with something other than anchorseal they always seem to have some checks in them. Not as bad as one might expect if they weren't treated at all, but checks none the less. On a 10 foot board the waste is minimal. On a short piece like a crotch of bowl blank, it would be very disheartening.

IMO a gallon of anchorseal goes a long way and is worth the investment.

But at the end of the day, handling green wood in a way that works best for you is something that can only be discovered by experimentation.

Jim, I have had success with latex paint when I've made it a point to
recoat after a while. I have a few pieces I did about a year ago and
since then, 2 or 3 times, I just slapped a new coat on. I also would
plan on using them or roughing them out as soon as you can get to it.
I'll probably turn mine in the next month or so.

Mike

"MinnJim" wrote in message
ps.com...
I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available
now and would like to seal the end grain for future use. Anchorseal is
not available easily in this area and seems expensive. Has anyone
tried a couple of coats of old left over latex paint on the expsosed
ends or does anyone think this will work?
MinnJim

This brings up an interesting point: has anyone attempted to brew their own
wax emulsion end-grain sealer?? It wouldn't seem to be too difficult, but
to be honest I haven't tried it, nor do I know the chemistry involved to
attempt it. Am I incorrect that Anchorseal is little more than wax--like
beeswax--dissolved in a volatile solvent?

Any ideas?

Max

"Maxprop" wrote in message
link.net...

"MinnJim" wrote in message
ps.com...
I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available
now and would like to seal the end grain for future use. Anchorseal is
not available easily in this area and seems expensive. Has anyone
tried a couple of coats of old left over latex paint on the expsosed
ends or does anyone think this will work?
MinnJim

This brings up an interesting point: has anyone attempted to brew their
own wax emulsion end-grain sealer?? It wouldn't seem to be too difficult,
but to be honest I haven't tried it, nor do I know the chemistry involved
to attempt it. Am I incorrect that Anchorseal is little more than
wax--like beeswax--dissolved in a volatile solvent?


In water. Takes a non-sudsing surfactant as an emulsifier, and a _BIG_
blender.

MinnJim wrote:
I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available
now and would like to seal the end grain for future use. Anchorseal is
not available easily in this area and seems expensive. Has anyone
tried a couple of coats of old left over latex paint on the expsosed
ends or does anyone think this will work?
MinnJim


I've used old latex with so-so success. If it is still pretty much the
normal consistency you'll need to put on several coats in my experience,
to equal the protection you get from Anchorseal. Once however I had
some *really* old latex which was more the consistency of pudding.
We're talking thick. I painted that on, and it worked great. I
estimated it was about the equivalent of five coats of regular latex.

S'later...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

FWIW I gave some rough turned oak an end treatment with oil based primer
because it was the thickest most expendable stuff that what was at hand
at the moment. Two months later half of the pieces seem not to have any
cracks at all, the remainder have small end checks and one has an ugly
check along the middle of the log. AFAIK there was no pith in any of the
pieces but I may be wrong about the ugly one.

I've heard of people melting down candles to make their own end sealer
but somehow I think Anchorseal would be cheaper and more reliable.

J.


MinnJim wrote:
I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available
now and would like to seal the end grain for future use. Anchorseal is
not available easily in this area and seems expensive. Has anyone
tried a couple of coats of old left over latex paint on the expsosed
ends or does anyone think this will work?
MinnJim

And, if you can work a deal to buy it in a 55 gal drum from the
manufacturer, even with shipping, there is no way you can buy the wax
and other stuff you would need at that price -- you are paying retail
for the ingredients and they are paying wholesale.

Find some turner friends to go partners on a drum. Also, either plan to
pick it up at the truck terminal or include a partner with a business
which can unload a truck, either at dock height or with a fork lift.
That saves lots on the shipping cost.

Bill

George wrote:

"Maxprop" wrote in message
link.net...

"MinnJim" wrote in message
ps.com...
I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available
now and would like to seal the end grain for future use. Anchorseal is
not available easily in this area and seems expensive. Has anyone
tried a couple of coats of old left over latex paint on the expsosed
ends or does anyone think this will work?
MinnJim

This brings up an interesting point: has anyone attempted to brew
their own wax emulsion end-grain sealer?? It wouldn't seem to be too
difficult, but to be honest I haven't tried it, nor do I know the
chemistry involved to attempt it. Am I incorrect that Anchorseal is
little more than wax--like beeswax--dissolved in a volatile solvent?


In water. Takes a non-sudsing surfactant as an emulsifier, and a _BIG_
blender.

"George" wrote in message
...

"Maxprop" wrote in message
link.net...

"MinnJim" wrote in message
ps.com...
I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available
now and would like to seal the end grain for future use. Anchorseal is
not available easily in this area and seems expensive. Has anyone
tried a couple of coats of old left over latex paint on the expsosed
ends or does anyone think this will work?
MinnJim

This brings up an interesting point: has anyone attempted to brew their
own wax emulsion end-grain sealer?? It wouldn't seem to be too
difficult, but to be honest I haven't tried it, nor do I know the
chemistry involved to attempt it. Am I incorrect that Anchorseal is
little more than wax--like beeswax--dissolved in a volatile solvent?


In water. Takes a non-sudsing surfactant as an emulsifier, and a _BIG_
blender.

What sort of surfactant? I have a rather large supply of beeswax, and I've
assumed a Cuisinart food processor might fill the bill for redundant small
batches.

Anchorseal isn't really that expensive, especially when purchased in 5
gallon quantities or larger. It's just that I've been wondering what to do
with several hundred pounds of beeswax for more than a year. End-grain
sealer seemed promising.

Max

MinnJim
Another cheap alternative is PVA glue, again does need a top up and needs to be kept out of the rain.
Mark

"Maxprop" wrote in message
link.net...

What sort of surfactant? I have a rather large supply of beeswax, and
I've assumed a Cuisinart food processor might fill the bill for redundant
small batches.

Non-sudsing type, surely. Recommend demineralized water for best action.

my 2 cents:
I wanted to avoid putting a water based anything on an obect which I
want to dry. Also, monitoring the situation called for a clear film.
Finally, a thick coat would prevent the need for multiple coats. Added
all together I ended up using silicone RTV tubes. Cheap, transparent
and not absorbed by the wood.
As to wax, you could probably buy powdered or pelleted wax, of any
kind, melt as much as you need in an old pot and put it in with a
spatulla. Would probably dry quicker than my silicone rubber but will
it withstand the tumbling and ocassional reshuffling of the logs?
enjoy...
max

Max - with domestic beeswax selling for 4 - 7 bucks a pound,
Anchorseal is a cheap solution!!!

On Jan 28, 12:25 am, "Maxprop" wrote:
"George" wrote in . tds.net...


"Maxprop" wrote in message
hlink.net...



Anchorseal isn't really that expensive, especially when purchased in 5
gallon quantities or larger. It's just that I've been wondering what to do
with several hundred pounds of beeswax for more than a year. End-grain
sealer seemed promising.

Max

In all the talk about AnchorSeal and other end sealers, I saw no comment at
all about the material Woodcraft sells called Green Wood End Sealer. It
costs about $17/Gallon and comes in one gallon jugs. I have used it for a
few years and am still on my first bottle but it seems to do a good job of
end sealing. I would like to hear other peoples comments on it.


"Woodborg" wrote in message
...

MinnJim
Another cheap alternative is PVA glue, again does need a top up and
needs to be kept out of the rain.
Mark




--
Woodborg

On Jan 27, 3:28 am, "MinnJim" wrote:
I have a bunch of fresh cut walnut limb,crotches and stumps available
now and would like to seal the end grain for future use. Anchorseal is
not available easily in this area and seems expensive. Has anyone
tried a couple of coats of old left over latex paint on the expsosed
ends or does anyone think this will work?
MinnJim

I've had good success with just plain old candle wax. I'm cheap, so I
buy old candles at garage sales; often times people will give them
away. I heat them up in a coffee can sitting in a pot of hot water.
I just dip the smaller branches and use a brush for larger pieces. I
usually apply about 3 coats, waiting a couple seconds between coats.
I've used latex but had the wood crack after a few months. Wax seems
to seal better for me. After you're done, leave the brush in the can
and let it all cool and harden.

Joe

Bob Daun wrote:
In all the talk about AnchorSeal and other end sealers, I saw no comment at
all about the material Woodcraft sells called Green Wood End Sealer. It
costs about $17/Gallon and comes in one gallon jugs. I have used it for a
few years and am still on my first bottle but it seems to do a good job of
end sealing. I would like to hear other peoples comments on it.

I always figured it was just rebranded Anchorseal. Used both, can't
tell the difference...

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

"Kevin Miller" wrote in message
...
Bob Daun wrote:
In all the talk about AnchorSeal and other end sealers, I saw no comment
at
all about the material Woodcraft sells called Green Wood End Sealer. It
costs about $17/Gallon and comes in one gallon jugs. I have used it for
a
few years and am still on my first bottle but it seems to do a good job
of
end sealing. I would like to hear other peoples comments on it.

I always figured it was just rebranded Anchorseal. Used both, can't
tell the difference...


Nor I between either and the water emulsion wax I spread and buffed when I
was in service.

I have used Woodcraft's product and have good luck with it. I've sealed both
Ash & Cherry wood from 2 trees I had to have taken down. A gallon goes a
long way. I still have about one-third left. John

"Bob Daun" wrote in message
t...
In all the talk about AnchorSeal and other end sealers, I saw no comment
at all about the material Woodcraft sells called Green Wood End Sealer.
It costs about $17/Gallon and comes in one gallon jugs. I have used it
for a few years and am still on my first bottle but it seems to do a good
job of end sealing. I would like to hear other peoples comments on it.


"Woodborg" wrote in message
...

MinnJim
Another cheap alternative is PVA glue, again does need a top up and
needs to be kept out of the rain.
Mark




--
Woodborg