What kind of a sealer can I use before a Watco danish oil to prevent
the end grain from absorbing so much oil and darkening it to much.
Rod

I don't use Watco, but pure tung oil and walnut oil. I find that sanding to
very fine grits is one way to prevent the end grain from absorbing too much
oil. I usually sand to 1000 grit. This might also depend on the type of
wood to a certain extent.
Martin
Long Island NY

wrote in message
oups.com...
What kind of a sealer can I use before a Watco danish oil to prevent
the end grain from absorbing so much oil and darkening it to much.
Rod

Hi Rod

Shellac is a good sealer, make sure it is not old though, a
nitrocellulose lacquer or sanding sealer works also good.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

What kind of a sealer can I use before a Watco danish oil to prevent
the end grain from absorbing so much oil and darkening it to much.
Rod

Thanks Leo
I am told that oil will not adhere to shellac so I thought it would
not be a good choice. I will try the lacquer. I believe I should thin
it about 30% if I am using it as a sanding seale. Do you know if this
is correct or not?
Rod
Leo Van Der Loo wrote:
Hi Rod

Shellac is a good sealer, make sure it is not old though, a
nitrocellulose lacquer or sanding sealer works also good.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

What kind of a sealer can I use before a Watco danish oil to
prevent
the end grain from absorbing so much oil and darkening it to much.
Rod

Hi Rod

I don't think that it makes any difference, if you want to use danish
oil there is not really any binding anyway, it's just mostly BLO and
thinners , I have a link to Russ Fairfields finishing corner that gives
you a lot of good info on finishing for the wood turner.

http://woodcentral.com/russ/finish7.shtml

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

wrote:

Thanks Leo
I am told that oil will not adhere to shellac so I thought it would
not be a good choice. I will try the lacquer. I believe I should thin
it about 30% if I am using it as a sanding seale. Do you know if this
is correct or not?
Rod
Leo Van Der Loo wrote:

Hi Rod

Shellac is a good sealer, make sure it is not old though, a
nitrocellulose lacquer or sanding sealer works also good.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


What kind of a sealer can I use before a Watco danish oil to

prevent

the end grain from absorbing so much oil and darkening it to much.
Rod

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am told that oil will not adhere to shellac so I thought it would
not be a good choice. I will try the lacquer. I believe I should thin
it about 30% if I am using it as a sanding seale. Do you know if this
is correct or not?

Oil will not adhere to the shellac, but you're going to dilute your
purchased 3# cut or make a 1# cut from scratch which will virtually
disappear from view with one application. Might as well order flakes and
get started with your own, as it's got to be the easiest and most attractive
finish out there for small work.

With alcohol acting like water to swell wood fiber, rather than like oil,
which slips in between, you'll want to do your final sand after the shellac
application to take off fresh whiskers. This will also remove any shellac
at the surface.

Oil won't adhere to burnished (case-hardened) wood either, which is why that
old trick works for flat workers. I don't like the effect it has on a
turning, personally.

At time, I have used a Paste Wood Filler from Benjamin Moore (238-05).
Its mixture of finely ground transparent natural flint.
I have used this paste filler on oak, sanded it and applied Danish oil with
good results.
I can only conclude that the oil adhered well and promote the beauty of the
wood grain without altering its color.
I have never tried it but on the direction it says that it could be stained
after.
On large surface paste wood filler is labor intensive but for small surface
I do see any problem.


"George" george@least wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am told that oil will not adhere to shellac so I thought it would
not be a good choice. I will try the lacquer. I believe I should thin
it about 30% if I am using it as a sanding seale. Do you know if this
is correct or not?

Oil will not adhere to the shellac, but you're going to dilute your
purchased 3# cut or make a 1# cut from scratch which will virtually
disappear from view with one application. Might as well order flakes and
get started with your own, as it's got to be the easiest and most
attractive
finish out there for small work.

With alcohol acting like water to swell wood fiber, rather than like oil,
which slips in between, you'll want to do your final sand after the
shellac
application to take off fresh whiskers. This will also remove any shellac
at the surface.

Oil won't adhere to burnished (case-hardened) wood either, which is why
that
old trick works for flat workers. I don't like the effect it has on a
turning, personally.