Something to ponder ...

I have an old Taiwanese 14" bandsaw, supplied by a now defunct
company, AMT. It has the standard 6'' high cut. When new, a riser
block was available as an add -on, but of course is no longer. I was
thinking that I might make a block out of 3/4 oak boards, laminatd to
the proper thickness to allow the use of the next size blade, thus
gaining several inches and allowing more capacity for resawing and
for trimming lumber to size for woodturning. Has any one done
anything like this? Can I expect the oak to stand up without
compressing or going slanted in some way? The pieces will be about 4'
square with a 3/4" hole in the center for the bolt that holds the
top of the bandsaw to the base.
Will appreciate your comments.

Doc Ron

Doc Ron wrote:
Something to ponder ...

I have an old Taiwanese 14" bandsaw, supplied by a now defunct
company, AMT. It has the standard 6'' high cut. When new, a riser
block was available as an add -on, but of course is no longer. I was
thinking that I might make a block out of 3/4 oak boards, laminatd to
the proper thickness to allow the use of the next size blade, thus
gaining several inches and allowing more capacity for resawing and
for trimming lumber to size for woodturning. Has any one done
anything like this? Can I expect the oak to stand up without
compressing or going slanted in some way? The pieces will be about 4'
square with a 3/4" hole in the center for the bolt that holds the
top of the bandsaw to the base.
Will appreciate your comments.

Doc Ron


The Grizzly Tools' riser block and Jet's for their 14" bandsaw are
interchangeable. Grizzly's may fit yours as well.

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/Main/75

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

(Remove -SPAM- to send email)

I bought a Cummins (Taiwanese??) 14" bandsaw -
when I asked them about buying the riser lkit I was told to contact Grizzley
and use their kit.
Will try that after I use up by bansaw blades.
bernie feinerman

most of the 14" bandsaws use the same foundry in Taiwan so the parts
associated with the casting should be pretty much interchangeable.

Brian

On Sat, 08 Jul 2006 11:13:52 -0700, Brian wrote:

most of the 14" bandsaws use the same foundry in Taiwan so the parts
associated with the casting should be pretty much interchangeable.

Brian

To which I would add, "and are available from Harbor Freight for about $50".
Bill

Can't just add at the throat. Need a kit including the guide slide which has
to be longer as well.
TomNie

thinking that I might make a block out of 3/4 oak boards, laminatd to
the proper thickness to allow the use of the next size blade, thus
gaining several inches and allowing more capacity for resawing and
for trimming lumber to size for woodturning. Has any one

"Doc Ron" wrote in message
...
Something to ponder ...

I have an old Taiwanese 14" bandsaw, supplied by a now defunct
company, AMT. It has the standard 6'' high cut. When new, a riser
block was available as an add -on, but of course is no longer. I was
thinking that I might make a block out of 3/4 oak boards, laminatd to
the proper thickness to allow the use of the next size blade, thus
gaining several inches and allowing more capacity for resawing and
for trimming lumber to size for woodturning. Has any one done
anything like this? Can I expect the oak to stand up without
compressing or going slanted in some way? The pieces will be about 4'
square with a 3/4" hole in the center for the bolt that holds the
top of the bandsaw to the base.
Will appreciate your comments.

Of course there's more than a riser involved, there's the matter of the
guards and the guides as well. Depending on vintage, you may have one of
the "original" clones, and they were a mixed bag at best. Lots of
hand-fitting in some of them. Problem in interchangeable parts results.

Most start with the Delta design, as you can see, or, in the early ones, the
Rockwell with no hinges on the doors, so your chances are pretty good of
getting a near fit. Buy from somewhere that allows returns in case yours is
close but no cigar.

In article ,
"no(SPAM)vasys" wrote:

Doc Ron wrote:
Something to ponder ...

I have an old Taiwanese 14" bandsaw, supplied by a now defunct
company, AMT. It has the standard 6'' high cut. When new, a riser
block was available as an add -on, but of course is no longer. I was
thinking that I might make a block out of 3/4 oak boards, laminatd to
the proper thickness to allow the use of the next size blade, thus
gaining several inches and allowing more capacity for resawing and
for trimming lumber to size for woodturning. Has any one done
anything like this? Can I expect the oak to stand up without
compressing or going slanted in some way? The pieces will be about 4'
square with a 3/4" hole in the center for the bolt that holds the
top of the bandsaw to the base.
Will appreciate your comments.

Doc Ron


The Grizzly Tools' riser block and Jet's for their 14" bandsaw are
interchangeable. Grizzly's may fit yours as well.

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/Main/75

Or not... I bought a Trend (also defunct) and getting the Grizzly to
fit took some machining work

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Sat, 08 Jul 2006 16:33:37 GMT, lid (Doc Ron) wrote:

Something to ponder ...

I have an old Taiwanese 14" bandsaw, supplied by a now defunct
company, AMT. It has the standard 6'' high cut. When new, a riser
block was available as an add -on, but of course is no longer. I was
thinking that I might make a block out of 3/4 oak boards, laminatd to
the proper thickness to allow the use of the next size blade, thus
gaining several inches and allowing more capacity for resawing and
for trimming lumber to size for woodturning. Has any one done
anything like this? Can I expect the oak to stand up without
compressing or going slanted in some way? The pieces will be about 4'
square with a 3/4" hole in the center for the bolt that holds the
top of the bandsaw to the base.
Will appreciate your comments.

Doc Ron

Not worth making your own, either in time or safety... and even if you COULD
make one, then you need to make the blade guards, guide adjustment rod, etc...

You seem like a do it your selfer... I'd suggest that you take the upped
arm/wheel off the saw and make a cardboard pattern of the top and bottom of the
joint that they came apart from...
Take this to someone that sells or has a griz riser kit (note that it's a KIT,
not just the block) and see if the size and pin layout matches your BS...

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

"Doc Ron" wrote in message
...
Something to ponder ...

I have an old Taiwanese 14" bandsaw, supplied by a now defunct
company, AMT. It has the standard 6'' high cut. When new, a riser
block was available as an add -on, but of course is no longer. I was
thinking that I might make a block out of 3/4 oak boards, laminatd to
the proper thickness to allow the use of the next size blade, thus
gaining several inches and allowing more capacity for resawing and
for trimming lumber to size for woodturning. Has any one done
anything like this? Can I expect the oak to stand up without
compressing or going slanted in some way? The pieces will be about 4'
square with a 3/4" hole in the center for the bolt that holds the
top of the bandsaw to the base.
Will appreciate your comments.

Doc Ron
================

I don't know if Home Depot is still selling the Ridgid bandsaw or not. It
had a riser kit available for it, and that's where I got mine. Seems like it
was under $30.00, but that was 4-5 years ago.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

On Mon, 10 Jul 2006 02:02:39 GMT, "Ken Moon" wrote:


snip
I don't know if Home Depot is still selling the Ridgid bandsaw or not. It
had a riser kit available for it, and that's where I got mine. Seems like it
was under $30.00, but that was 4-5 years ago.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

I bought the Ridgid bs1400 at HD a couple of years ago...
Ridgid wanted about $75 for the riser kit but on the advice of the good folks
here I bought the Griz riser kit from Amazon for less than $50..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Again, thanks to everyone. Mac, that is a really good suggestion,
about the cardboard pattern.
Several folks on the Wood magazine forum cautioned that the motor in
the machine may not be up to the task of cutting much larger pieces
than the original 6". I can see that happening - I haven't
looked recently, but I seem to recall that I have a 3/4 horse in
there. I suspect that I will have to be really careful about that, if
I go this route. So far, with the 3 tpi blade I have, I haven't had
much trouble resawing.

Doc Ron

On Wed, 12 Jul 2006 05:50:22 GMT, lid (Doc Ron) wrote:

Again, thanks to everyone. Mac, that is a really good suggestion,
about the cardboard pattern.
Several folks on the Wood magazine forum cautioned that the motor in
the machine may not be up to the task of cutting much larger pieces
than the original 6". I can see that happening - I haven't
looked recently, but I seem to recall that I have a 3/4 horse in
there. I suspect that I will have to be really careful about that, if
I go this route. So far, with the 3 tpi blade I have, I haven't had
much trouble resawing.

Doc Ron

Mine's only 3/4 hp, Ron.. I can cut 8" thick bowl blanks if I take normal care
in feed rate, etc...
The riser kit is for more than just cutting thicker stuff, IMO... it feels safer
to me to have that extra height between the wheels to get a push stick or
feather board in there and see what's going on... might let the blade run a bit
cooler also, since it's about a foot longer?
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Ron just make sure you have saw blades for cutting WET wood, 3 or 4
teeth per inch, that makes all the difference in the world, that is my
take on it, but I use my chainsaw most when cutting large blanks, 100
pound lumps of wet wood are not easy to handle on a bandsaw.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Doc Ron wrote:
Again, thanks to everyone. Mac, that is a really good suggestion,
about the cardboard pattern.
Several folks on the Wood magazine forum cautioned that the motor in
the machine may not be up to the task of cutting much larger pieces
than the original 6". I can see that happening - I haven't
looked recently, but I seem to recall that I have a 3/4 horse in
there. I suspect that I will have to be really careful about that, if
I go this route. So far, with the 3 tpi blade I have, I haven't had
much trouble resawing.

Doc Ron

On 16 Jul 2006 01:04:47 -0700, "
wrote:

Funny that you mentioned that, Leo...
I saw a thing in ABPW about cutting rolls of paper towels in half with the
bandsaw... neat idea, since a lot of the stuff I do in the shop needs less than
a whole towel..

What didn't occur to me is that the guy that did it was a flat work type and
probably used a fine tooth blade...

Cut one in half with my 3 tpi blade and filled the shop with white fluffy
stuff.. *sigh*


Ron just make sure you have saw blades for cutting WET wood, 3 or 4
teeth per inch, that makes all the difference in the world, that is my
take on it, but I use my chainsaw most when cutting large blanks, 100
pound lumps of wet wood are not easy to handle on a bandsaw.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Doc Ron wrote:
Again, thanks to everyone. Mac, that is a really good suggestion,
about the cardboard pattern.
Several folks on the Wood magazine forum cautioned that the motor in
the machine may not be up to the task of cutting much larger pieces
than the original 6". I can see that happening - I haven't
looked recently, but I seem to recall that I have a 3/4 horse in
there. I suspect that I will have to be really careful about that, if
I go this route. So far, with the 3 tpi blade I have, I haven't had
much trouble resawing.

Doc Ron

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

ROFL

You DO have fun don't You.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

mac davis wrote:
On 16 Jul 2006 01:04:47 -0700, "
wrote:

Funny that you mentioned that, Leo...
I saw a thing in ABPW about cutting rolls of paper towels in half with the
bandsaw... neat idea, since a lot of the stuff I do in the shop needs less than
a whole towel..

What didn't occur to me is that the guy that did it was a flat work type and
probably used a fine tooth blade...

Cut one in half with my 3 tpi blade and filled the shop with white fluffy
stuff.. *sigh*


Ron just make sure you have saw blades for cutting WET wood, 3 or 4
teeth per inch, that makes all the difference in the world, that is my
take on it, but I use my chainsaw most when cutting large blanks, 100
pound lumps of wet wood are not easy to handle on a bandsaw.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Doc Ron wrote:
Again, thanks to everyone. Mac, that is a really good suggestion,
about the cardboard pattern.
Several folks on the Wood magazine forum cautioned that the motor in
the machine may not be up to the task of cutting much larger pieces
than the original 6". I can see that happening - I haven't
looked recently, but I seem to recall that I have a 3/4 horse in
there. I suspect that I will have to be really careful about that, if
I go this route. So far, with the 3 tpi blade I have, I haven't had
much trouble resawing.

Doc Ron

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

On 16 Jul 2006 11:07:56 -0700, "
wrote:


ROFL

You DO have fun don't You.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo


Oh, yeah.... I never fail at anything....
I just find several ways that didn't work..


Funny that you mentioned that, Leo...
I saw a thing in ABPW about cutting rolls of paper towels in half with the
bandsaw... neat idea, since a lot of the stuff I do in the shop needs less than
a whole towel..

What didn't occur to me is that the guy that did it was a flat work type and
probably used a fine tooth blade...

Cut one in half with my 3 tpi blade and filled the shop with white fluffy
stuff.. *sigh*


Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

mac davis wrote:

Cut one in half with my 3 tpi blade and filled the shop with white fluffy
stuff.. *sigh*

Pictures! We want pictures! g

....Kevin

--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

He Kevin, wouldn't seeing Mac on Americas Funniest pictures be
hilarious, or to see The fastest paper shredder ever with Mac

Sorry Mac, but I'm Roflmao.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Kevin Miller wrote:
mac davis wrote:

Cut one in half with my 3 tpi blade and filled the shop with white fluffy
stuff.. *sigh*

Pictures! We want pictures! g

...Kevin

--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357

On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 13:00:51 -0800, Kevin Miller
wrote:

mac davis wrote:

Cut one in half with my 3 tpi blade and filled the shop with white fluffy
stuff.. *sigh*

Pictures! We want pictures! g

...Kevin

Kevin.. While I often reveal my screw ups in the hope of helping others, I sort
of draw the line at photographing them.. *g*

BTW: I cut a few rolls on the cutoff saw the other day and that worked pretty
good..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

mac davis wrote:

Kevin.. While I often reveal my screw ups in the hope of helping others, I sort
of draw the line at photographing them.. *g*

Well, guess ya can't blame a guy for having his standards! g

....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
Juneau, Alaska
Registered Linux User No: 307357