Morning all, from the worlds champion lurker.
I am trying to turn a number of 36 inch spindles. The problem I am
having is that I get places where the grain picks out and leaves a very
coarse surface.Eastern pine because it is cheap, handy etc. If it were
hard wood it would be no problem, so no choice. I have used a steady
rest, kept the tools very sharp etc. What am I doing wrong? Eastern pine
because it is cheap, handy etc. If it were hard wood it would be no
problem, so no choice.
Many thanks for any help you may be able to give.

Fred

On Wed, 31 May 2006 11:53:46 GMT, Fred May wrote:

Morning all, from the worlds champion lurker.
I am trying to turn a number of 36 inch spindles. The problem I am
having is that I get places where the grain picks out and leaves a very
coarse surface.Eastern pine because it is cheap, handy etc. If it were
hard wood it would be no problem, so no choice. I have used a steady
rest, kept the tools very sharp etc. What am I doing wrong? Eastern pine
because it is cheap, handy etc. If it were hard wood it would be no
problem, so no choice.
Many thanks for any help you may be able to give.

Fred


There are many other woods that turn much better, cleaner than pine.
Anyway, the softer the wood, the faster the cutting speed.

On Wed, 31 May 2006 11:53:46 GMT, Fred May wrote:
SNIP

I am trying to turn a number of 36 inch spindles. The problem I am
having is that I get places where the grain picks out and leaves a very
coarse surface.Eastern pine because it is cheap, handy etc. If it were
hard wood it would be no problem, so no choice. I have used a steady
rest, kept the tools very sharp etc. What am I doing wrong?

SNIP

I am assuming that you mean you had no choice when it came to the wood
you are turning. With that in mind, You might want to do a couple of
things to change up your turning technique to reduce your tearout. I
turn pine from time to time, and sometimes there is almost no way to
stop all the tear out or rough grain left behind.

First, I would make sure I am spinning the piece as fast as I could
(safely). Make sure your tools are razor sharp, and that you are using
the correct one. When I get to near finish dimension on a problem
piece of wood with tearout, I finish my cuts with one of two tools: a
1" skew, sharpen to a fine edge so that I can plane off the material;
or the old 60-80 grit skew, and take the piece to final shape with
that.

However, even with the sandpaper "skew", you will have tearout, it will
just be smaller. And if you go the sandpaper route, you should be
aware that you will be sanding a lot, going all through the grits to
get out the last of the grooves and tearout.

I don't know how many you have of these to do, but if my material was
doing that to me, I would change if I could. If you can't, just take
you time and take off as small amounts of material as possible at a
time.

Robert

"Fred May" wrote in message
news:etffg.39$DO5.36@trndny06...
Morning all, from the worlds champion lurker.
I am trying to turn a number of 36 inch spindles. The problem I am having
is that I get places where the grain picks out and leaves a very coarse
surface.Eastern pine because it is cheap, handy etc. If it were hard wood
it would be no problem, so no choice. I have used a steady rest, kept the
tools very sharp etc. What am I doing wrong? Eastern pine because it is
cheap, handy etc. If it were hard wood it would be no problem, so no
choice.
Many thanks for any help you may be able to give.


Red or white? Big difference. White (Pinus strobus) is much more
consistent in density, and is quicker to drop branches, producing overall
straighter wood. If what you're turning is cheaper than hardwoods like
birch, you may have SPF (two by fours) which is usually spruce or fir, and a
stinker to get a smooth spindle on.

Speed isn't essential, sharp is. Most essential is that you not rush the
task by attempting to lever out the shavings, but take them as they come.
If you dig the heel in an attempt to "ride the bevel" you will bruise the
wood under the heel, tear the wood at the edge, and make the whole spindle
squirm. If you can, get a look at the way Roy Underhill or other
human-power turners put a gouge to wood. You're after taking the least
effort, just as they are, even though you've got the motor on the job.
Pressing only the cutting edge, not the bevel is the concept. I use broad
radius gouges or skews, and they ride best at about 1:00-1:30, not later on
the spindle, unless you're bottoming coving or beading, in which case they
still start up high and swing down toward 3:00.

Worst pine I ever turned was Jack, which is loaded with resin to the point
that you couldn't even sand it effectively. Loaded paper that fast.
Stringy and brittle at the same time. Hope you don't have that.