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#1
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Freeze Dried?
Paper baggging, Liquid Dishwashing Detergent (LDD) soaking,
microwaving, cover in sawdust and wait a month or two, boiling - so many methods of attempting to control drying problems. I normally keep a couple of 2 liter cokes in the fridge. But this evening I had to resort to ice cubes since I'd forgotten to restock my cold coca cola supply. The ice cube tray was "full" - with half cubes. Hmmmmm - the tray was filled with water a month or two ago. Freeze dried . . . Hmmmm. Anyone pop a green piece in the freezer - for a couple of weeks and check the weigth change? charlie b |
#2
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Freeze Dried?
Charlie not sure about this I can understand the Loss of Volume of the Ice
Cubes as this will be due to "Sublimation" at the Surface of the Ice, but you also will have an Expansion of Water when Frozen = to 9% of its volume, this may distort/destroy the Inner Cell Structure of the Wood? My thoughts have been towards Vacuum Drying of Timber anyone had ago at this? RVS http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk "charlie b" wrote in message ... Paper baggging, Liquid Dishwashing Detergent (LDD) soaking, microwaving, cover in sawdust and wait a month or two, boiling - so many methods of attempting to control drying problems. I normally keep a couple of 2 liter cokes in the fridge. But this evening I had to resort to ice cubes since I'd forgotten to restock my cold coca cola supply. The ice cube tray was "full" - with half cubes. Hmmmmm - the tray was filled with water a month or two ago. Freeze dried . . . Hmmmm. Anyone pop a green piece in the freezer - for a couple of weeks and check the weigth change? charlie b |
#3
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Freeze Dried?
In article ,
charlie b wrote: Paper baggging, Liquid Dishwashing Detergent (LDD) soaking, microwaving, cover in sawdust and wait a month or two, boiling - so many methods of attempting to control drying problems. I normally keep a couple of 2 liter cokes in the fridge. But this evening I had to resort to ice cubes since I'd forgotten to restock my cold coca cola supply. The ice cube tray was "full" - with half cubes. Hmmmmm - the tray was filled with water a month or two ago. Freeze dried . . . Hmmmm. Anyone pop a green piece in the freezer - for a couple of weeks and check the weigth change? Water -expands- as it freezes. Enough said? Freeze Drying, uses cold and a vacuum. -- -------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found at http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv |
#4
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Freeze Dried?
Charlie B,
I've never actually tried dying a turned item in the freezer but I have stored wood (like holly) that gets blue stain quickly. It worked somewhat for that. As drying went, the ends of the log did check so I would think that some drying did occur. A freezer is a low humidity environment. Some here have hypothesized (many moons ago) that the expansion of the bound water in the cells will rupture the cell allowing for drying without cracking. I'm not sure if this ever panned out for anybody. It might be worth a try on your part though. Tony Manella ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at") http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/ "charlie b" wrote in message ... Paper baggging, Liquid Dishwashing Detergent (LDD) soaking, microwaving, cover in sawdust and wait a month or two, boiling - so many methods of attempting to control drying problems. I normally keep a couple of 2 liter cokes in the fridge. But this evening I had to resort to ice cubes since I'd forgotten to restock my cold coca cola supply. The ice cube tray was "full" - with half cubes. Hmmmmm - the tray was filled with water a month or two ago. Freeze dried . . . Hmmmm. Anyone pop a green piece in the freezer - for a couple of weeks and check the weigth change? charlie b |
#5
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Freeze Dried?
Charlie not sure about this I can understand the Loss of Volume of the Ice
Cubes as this will be due to "Sublimation" at the Surface of the Ice, but you also will have an Expansion of Water when Frozen = to 9% of its volume, this may distort/destroy the Inner Cell Structure of the Wood? My thoughts have been towards Vacuum Drying of Timber anyone had ago at this? Actually, freeze drying involves freezing, heating, and vacuuming all at the same time. See: http://home.howstuffworks.com/freeze-drying.htm Small units are not expensive. The FPL does not mention it. Woodweb says its a bad idea, but then goes on to say it can work. http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...echniques.html Vacuum kilns involve heating the wood, which can be the tricky part. http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...ln_drying.html Dan |
#6
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Freeze Dried?
The Scientific facts are Water at 0°C in Liquid form has a density of
0.9999grams per cubic centimetre where as Ice at 0°C has a Density of 0.9150g/cm³ which equates to 9% the damage this can do when trapped is well known, how many of you have suffered a Burst Water Pipe? It is more about the Breaking or Rupturing of Cells, that when the Wood is Thawed and the Moisture Removed [Freezing will not remove Internal Moisture by Sublimation] there is a very real risk of Collapse within the Wood. In a nut shell we are not discussing a Viable Method for Drying Wood so its back to the proven methods or the Soap Bath. RVS "charlie b" wrote in message ... Richard Stapley wrote: Charlie not sure about this I can understand the Loss of Volume of the Ice Cubes as this will be due to "Sublimation" at the Surface of the Ice, Sublimation: Passing from solid state to gaseous state directly without going through the liquid state. In a "frost free" freezer, the "gas", in this case water vapor, is removed from the freezing compartment - if it wasn't it would condense and become "frost". So there is some removal of water - directly from ice. OR - IF the liquid dishwashing detergent (LDD) method actually gets the solution INTO the wood, I doubt it would freeze. but you also will have an Expansion of Water when Frozen = to 9% of its volume, this may distort/destroy the Inner Cell Structure of the Wood? As for the unusual characteristic of water - to expand, rather than to contract, as it cools, (good thing too or we and other liquid water based organisms would never have occurred on this planet) - I believe the expansion value is closer to 4%. That's in the expansion range of many common woods - something solid wood furniture makers have been dealing with for quite a while (imagine trying to make chairs in Egypt). But back to quick (relative to air drying) drying - perhaps to eliminate the the "ice cracking" potential problem, how about just using the refridgerator part of the fridge? charliel b |
#7
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Freeze Dried?
Richard Stapley wrote:
Charlie not sure about this I can understand the Loss of Volume of the Ice Cubes as this will be due to "Sublimation" at the Surface of the Ice, Sublimation: Passing from solid state to gaseous state directly without going through the liquid state. In a "frost free" freezer, the "gas", in this case water vapor, is removed from the freezing compartment - if it wasn't it would condense and become "frost". So there is some removal of water - directly from ice. OR - IF the liquid dishwashing detergent (LDD) method actually gets the solution INTO the wood, I doubt it would freeze. but you also will have an Expansion of Water when Frozen = to 9% of its volume, this may distort/destroy the Inner Cell Structure of the Wood? As for the unusual characteristic of water - to expand, rather than to contract, as it cools, (good thing too or we and other liquid water based organisms would never have occurred on this planet) - I believe the expansion value is closer to 4%. That's in the expansion range of many common woods - something solid wood furniture makers have been dealing with for quite a while (imagine trying to make chairs in Egypt). But back to quick (relative to air drying) drying - perhaps to eliminate the the "ice cracking" potential problem, how about just using the refridgerator part of the fridge? charliel b |
#8
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Freeze Dried?
Hi Richard & Charlie,
Sorry I can't resist a warped & silly OT digression, but if a wood bowl could be collapsed by freeze drying then couldn't it be restored by adding water, as are many lyophilized products? We could freeze dry our finished bowls into small amorphous lumps to be restored by the customer to later glory by just adding water. We turners could freeze bowls instead of people to insure their immortality. More likely our lylophilized bowls would end up being chio pets. Ok I said I'm sorry, so back to the subject. I think lyopholizing, ionizing radiation and hypertonic osmotic gradients have all been tried and found not feasible for drying or preserving turning timber. Not to say that some other methods are that much better. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#9
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Freeze Dried?
"charlie b" wrote in message ... Paper baggging, Liquid Dishwashing Detergent (LDD) soaking, microwaving, cover in sawdust and wait a month or two, boiling - so many methods of attempting to control drying problems. I normally keep a couple of 2 liter cokes in the fridge. But this evening I had to resort to ice cubes since I'd forgotten to restock my cold coca cola supply. The ice cube tray was "full" - with half cubes. Hmmmmm - the tray was filled with water a month or two ago. Freeze dried . . . Hmmmm. Anyone pop a green piece in the freezer - for a couple of weeks and check the weigth change? I've turned wood frozen for five months at lower temperatures. No difference, because it's not the freeze that counts, it's that frost-free fan that takes the high relative humidity cold air out. It's evaporation, same as all the other things you mention, that dries the wood. If the surface looses faster than can be replaced from within, the wood checks. Look at a piece of meat that's got "freezer burn" if you want to know what's going to happen to the wood. "Freeze-drying" in commercial parlance has more to do with vacuum than temperature. http://home.howstuffworks.com/freeze-drying.htm Vacuum drying is used with wood. |
#10
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Freeze Dried?
charlie,
Vic Wood in Australia says that they use freeze drying regularly. You put the wood in the freezer long enough to let it fully freeze (probably a few days). You then remove it from the freezer and place it in the refrigator and let the fan draw out the moisture. This takes several more days. (You should weigh it each day until it stops loosing weight.) Now they were using this for rough turned bowls. My wife and I have tried this with some success, when we can find room in our freezer, which is seldom. Incidentally, one trick I learned from the World of Wood, the magazine of the International Wood Collector's Society, in an article it says to stand the wood vertical in the way that it grew and there will be minimum checking. We've tried this with some Madrone pieces about 5 feet long. They have been standing for six months now with little or no cracking. This is only one trial. The information supposedly came from an old logger, who said to stand your sawn boards on end while they dry and there will be minimum warping and checking. It isn't going to be fast, but it may be a way to save your collected timber from self destruction. Fred Holder http://www.fholder.com In article , charlie b says... Richard Stapley wrote: Charlie not sure about this I can understand the Loss of Volume of the Ice Cubes as this will be due to "Sublimation" at the Surface of the Ice, Sublimation: Passing from solid state to gaseous state directly without going through the liquid state. In a "frost free" freezer, the "gas", in this case water vapor, is removed from the freezing compartment - if it wasn't it would condense and become "frost". So there is some removal of water - directly from ice. OR - IF the liquid dishwashing detergent (LDD) method actually gets the solution INTO the wood, I doubt it would freeze. but you also will have an Expansion of Water when Frozen = to 9% of its volume, this may distort/destroy the Inner Cell Structure of the Wood? As for the unusual characteristic of water - to expand, rather than to contract, as it cools, (good thing too or we and other liquid water based organisms would never have occurred on this planet) - I believe the expansion value is closer to 4%. That's in the expansion range of many common woods - something solid wood furniture makers have been dealing with for quite a while (imagine trying to make chairs in Egypt). But back to quick (relative to air drying) drying - perhaps to eliminate the the "ice cracking" potential problem, how about just using the refridgerator part of the fridge? charliel b -- NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth |
#11
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Freeze Dried?
"TonyM" tonym.le(atsymbol)comcast.net wrote in message . .. Charlie B, I've never actually tried dying a turned item in the freezer but I have stored wood (like holly) that gets blue stain quickly. It worked somewhat for that. As drying went, the ends of the log did check so I would think that some drying did occur. A freezer is a low humidity environment. Some here have hypothesized (many moons ago) that the expansion of the bound water in the cells will rupture the cell allowing for drying without cracking. I'm not sure if this ever panned out for anybody. It might be worth a try on your part though. Bound water would not freeze. Unbound water would require a temperature far lower than the home freezer unit. Remember your HS chemistry where they talked about freezing point depression in solutions? Then, of course, there's no way cellulose cell walls are going to break, not that they need to, there being no live tissue inside, and holes in them anyway. |
#12
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Freeze Dried?
Richard Stapley wrote: The Scientific facts are Water at 0°C in Liquid form has a density of 0.9999grams per cubic centimetre where as Ice at 0°C has a Density of 0.9150g/cm³ which equates to 9% the damage this can do when trapped is well known, how many of you have suffered a Burst Water Pipe? The Scientific fact of the matter is - the analagy is not scientific at all. The anatomy (cellular structure) of the xylem and phloem in any plant, and especially the hardwoods, is extremely complex and far stronger and more flexible than household pipe. Nor is the liquid contained in the living tissue water. It is a complex mixture of solutes in water that changes both the freezing point and properties of the system. Moreover, there is both bound and free water in wood. Think about it, northern trees experience repeated cycles of freezing and thawing each spring and fall. Green wood cut isn't so different from green wood in the tree. In a nut shell we are not discussing a Viable Method for Drying Wood so its back to the proven methods or the Soap Bath. Actually, we are. My shop is located in an unheated barn. Winter temperatures range from below freezing to below zero. I routinely cut slabs from green wood and allow them to dry while frozen. Rough turned blanks sit on the floor covered by shavings frozen. They are repeately subjected to thaw/freeze cycles as I heat the workshop to work and then let it go back to sub freezing. I have experienced NO cracking that wasn't due to wind shakes. I even tried putting the pith dead center through both sides in a number of blanks to see what would happen. Either no or minimal cracking. My experience is that it works. It's also been reported on other message boards that putting a green, rough turned blank into the freezer for several days/weeks prevents both cracking and to some extent warping/distortion. So it's working for other people as well. |
#13
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Freeze Dried?
George wrote: Remember your HS chemistry where they talked about freezing point depression in solutions? You need to take a look at the molar concentration of sap and the freezing point depression per mole. |
#14
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Freeze Dried?
In article ,
Fred Holder wrote: .... Incidentally, one trick I learned from the World of Wood, the magazine of the International Wood Collector's Society, in an article it says to stand the wood vertical in the way that it grew and there will be minimum checking. We've tried this with some Madrone pieces about 5 feet long. They have been standing for six months now with little or no cracking. This is only one trial. The information supposedly came from an old logger, who said to stand your sawn boards on end while they dry and there will be minimum warping and checking. It isn't going to be fast, but it may be a way to save your collected timber from self destruction. ... Considering how easily Madrone cracks, it's an interesting data point -- -------------------------------------------------------- Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read RV and Camping FAQ can be found at http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv |
#15
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Freeze Dried?
Holymolar Charlie! Look what two bottles of Coca Cola and a tray of half
size ice cubes can lead to. At this point in your thread I am unsure whether or not to fix up my old freezer chest for drying wood since I don't need it for keeping fish anymore. Best to keep following the thread, trying to understand the inputs and hoping you will summarize what to do at the end. I remember HS chemistry, something about rearranging letters & numbers separated by an arrow and a little about a piece of chicken wire with the same symbols attached with equal signs at the corners. It was taught by the same man who taught us shop (we had a Delta lathe) and typewriting and I didn't learn much, so rcw helps me with all three. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#16
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Freeze Dried?
"Fred Holder" wrote in message ... charlie, Vic Wood in Australia says that they use freeze drying regularly. You put the wood in the freezer long enough to let it fully freeze (probably a few days). You then remove it from the freezer and place it in the refrigator and let the fan draw out the moisture. This takes several more days. (You should weigh it each day until it stops loosing weight.) Now they were using this for rough turned bowls. My wife and I have tried this with some success, when we can find room in our freezer, which is seldom. Freezing point depression makes it highly unlikely he can freeze the sugar water in the wood. http://dbhs.wvusd.k12.ca.us/webdocs/...-FP-Lower.html If you could, and if there was any alteration in wood structure because of it, there wouldn't be a tree left standing in the north, where it gets much colder than any freezer made for commercial use. That's why the tree reduces the amount of water it contains in the winter, to concentrate the solution, and make the freezing point lower. The fan, of course removes humidified air, which accelerates water loss. Leave out of the freezer, and you'll get the same. Note also, as in the other posts, that water escapes at a lower rate in a cool situation. |
#17
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Freeze Dried?
"ebd" wrote in message oups.com... George wrote: Look at a piece of meat that's got "freezer burn" if you want to know what's going to happen to the wood. This analogy doesn't "hold water", scientifically : ). Muscle and wood tissue, while both complex cellularly, are vastly diffierent structurally, physiologically, and chemically. Way too much to go into here. You are correct that the process that produces freezer burn is surface dehydration. However, due to a number of factors related to the cellular structure of muscle, movement of subsurface water to the surface is virtually nonexistant while frozen. The cellular structure of wood is far more conducive to water movement along the grain while frozen. Freezer burn is a film of cell destruction covering the surface, while checking is separation of tissue along stress lines with minimal cell damage. The two are nothing alike. Say what? It's loss of moisture and structural collapse. Lipid isn't cellulose and vice versa, but you certainly can see that the _loss of moisture_ which expands the structure is the common thread. Or are you just trying to sound important? Capillary action, the process by which unbound water is carried by the tree, or pulled by evaporation, depends on adhesion to the walls of the tube, and cohesion of the liquid involved. What happens to the surface of wood where the relative humidity is low is that it loses water to the air to the degree the air is able to accept it which cannot be replaced from the interior by capillary action. That's what causes surface checking - always - and the weakness in structure from the collapse of fibers which have lost their bound water produces initial surface checks, which open until adhesion overcomes cohesion, preventing capillary draw. Proof is in your woodpile. End checks are self-limiting. Once the dry layer is thick enough, it isolates the interior from further rapid loss, which is why you can trim off the damaged ends and find wood well above the EMC in the interior. Wet the end, re-expand the fiber, and be fooled into thinking the structure is sound to your sorrow. When all is said and done, a fair number of people have successfully used freezing to prevent checking, myself included. I don't think anyone claims that it works for all species of wood, under every condition that could exist. But it does work, at least under some conditions, for some species of wood. I have cord upon cord of wood which has been "frozen" all winter, and it's only now beginning to dry again. Since the water couldn't leave, the checks have not grown. Is that what you mean by preventing checking? It may seem news to you, but loggers have known it for years. Keeping the log submerged or soaked will do the same thing, and for the same reason. However, none will have done a thing to prevent checks which will begin on a freshly exposed surface once water can be removed. That's the drying part. Take two pieces of wood, as nearly identical as you can get. Make them from the same stick. Freeze one, not the other, then put them into identical conditions to dry and check for difference. I suggested this to Fred when he spoke of alcohol "drying" as an effective method. There will be no difference in dry time nor in distortion. Of course, if you control the relative humidity by wrapping, as in the "alcohol method" you will have success, if you toss them on the table for three days at 60% RH, you will have failure. Freeze has nothing to do with it - nor does alcohol. It's controlled moisture loss which is the independent variable in your experiment. Try it. |
#18
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Freeze Drie-nah. How bout critical point or triple point drying
Since we' replaying around with the idea of using tissue drying methods on
wood, and it seems (more or less) agreeing that they're not comparable, how 'bout this one: a method used to prepare bio specimens for scanning electron microscopy (SEM) is to replace all of the water in the tissue with alchohol, followed by liquid CO2. The specimen is submerged in liquid CO2, and thressure and temp are cranked up to the triple point (the point where the CO2 gas/liquid phase lines and temperature pressure phase lines intersect) -. Basically at this point, the CO2 transisions from liquid to gas, but the volume does not change. If you remember your basic chemistry.physics, and think about gas laws, it should make sense. If you don't remember it, just take my word for it - its real. the end result (in bio anyway) is a speciment that is totally dry, but with none of the distortion (shrinking) usually assoicated with liquid loss. It seems that (in theory anyway) this should work for dessicating wood. I don't know how good the wood would be....0% moisture just doesn't sound like it would be a good thing. (Bio specimens in this state are delicate beyond delicate). Course, all the bio SEM work I've done was in specimens that were in the 5 mm or less size range, so you'd have to be doing some mighty small woodwork..... this is what happend when a engineer/bio geek starts thinking....... --JD |
#19
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Freeze Dried?
George wrote: Say what? It's loss of moisture and structural collapse. Lipid isn't cellulose and vice versa, but you certainly can see that the _loss of moisture_ which expands the structure is the common thread. Or are you just trying to sound important? Excuse me, but loss of moisture never results in expansion. And no, I have no reason to try and sound important. Perhaps you do, but I'm mearly trying to be accurate in replying to a question from someone asking for help. Capillary action, the process by which unbound water is carried by the tree, or pulled by evaporation, depends on adhesion to the walls of the tube, and cohesion of the liquid involved. Actually this mechanism has been proved to be insufficient to explain how water is transported to the tops of redwoods, for example. What happens to the surface of wood where the relative humidity is low is that it loses water to the air to the degree the air is able to accept it which cannot be replaced from the interior by capillary action. That's what causes surface checking - always - and the weakness in structure from the collapse of fibers which have lost their bound water produces initial surface checks, which open until adhesion overcomes cohesion, preventing capillary draw. Incorrect, actually. Has nothing to do with structural collapse of fibers. Wood shrinks differentially as it dries, setting up stresses that pull the wood apart. Proof is in your woodpile. End checks are self-limiting. Once the dry layer is thick enough, it isolates the interior from further rapid loss, which is why you can trim off the damaged ends and find wood well above the EMC in the interior. Wet the end, re-expand the fiber, and be fooled into thinking the structure is sound to your sorrow. Very poor analogy. We are talking of properly prepared blanks, pith removed and roughed out to a thickness of about 3/4" to 1 1/2" not firewood. Apples and oranges. Take two pieces of wood, as nearly identical as you can get. Make them from the same stick. Freeze one, not the other, then put them into identical conditions to dry and check for difference. I suggested this to Fred when he spoke of alcohol "drying" as an effective method. There will be no difference in dry time nor in distortion. Of course, if you control the relative humidity by wrapping, as in the "alcohol method" you will have success, if you toss them on the table for three days at 60% RH, you will have failure. Freeze has nothing to do with it - nor does alcohol. It's controlled moisture loss which is the independent variable in your experiment. Try it. I have. It works. Both freezing and alcohol. And actually you are quite wrong about the effect of alcohol. It's used quite extensively in the preparation of tissue for microscopy. The alcohol replaces the water, i.e., dehydrates the tissue, preventing damage or distortion of the tissue. Freezing is likewise used extensively to microtome fresh samples for immediate viewing rather than permanent mount. Perhaps you are, deliberately or subconciously, missing the critical point. No one is saying to cut a block of wood with pith running through it, put it in the freezer or in alcohol, pull it out and expose it to low humidity and expect it not to check. What we are saying is that if you rough turn a green wood blank to about an inch wall thickness, freeze it or soak it in alcohol long enough for the water to be replaced by the alcohol, and then dry the blank slowly (under cover of shavings or in a paper bag or other method of your choice), the failure rate from checking will be drastically reduced if not eliminated and you can dry more quickly than would be the case without treatment. |
#20
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Freeze Drie-nah. How bout critical point or triple point drying
jd, Cool idea - nanoturning. I can appreciate as a bio & computer geek. Don't think there would be much of a market though. |
#21
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Freeze Dried?
George wrote: Freezing point depression makes it highly unlikely he can freeze the sugar water in the wood. Gee that's interesting. Maple syrup is far more concentrated (I'm not sure of the actual ratio but I think it takes 30-40 gal of sap to make 1 gal of syrup) and it freezes just fine either in the fridge or chest freezer downstairs. |
#22
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Freeze Dried?
ebd wrote:
George wrote: Freezing point depression makes it highly unlikely he can freeze the sugar water in the wood. Gee that's interesting. Maple syrup is far more concentrated (I'm not sure of the actual ratio but I think it takes 30-40 gal of sap to make 1 gal of syrup) and it freezes just fine either in the fridge or chest freezer downstairs. You are quite right. I freeze syrup all the time. However it is a different thing to freeze 12" x 12" x 6" piece of log. Wood is a very poor conductor as opposed to water. so you will have to over come the insulating qualities of wood to freeze the log. I'm not saying it can't be done but it is going to take a long time to freeze all of the sap in wood. (my two cents) |
#23
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Freeze Dried?
Well all this might be true, but the highest antifreeze rate is not found at the highest concentration level !! Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo |
#24
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Freeze Dried?
"ebd" wrote in message ups.com... George wrote: Say what? It's loss of moisture and structural collapse. Lipid isn't cellulose and vice versa, but you certainly can see that the _loss of moisture_ which expands the structure is the common thread. Or are you just trying to sound important? I see we have an English problem. Moisture expands the structure, loss comes after. No point in going further. You're not interested, or incapable. |
#25
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Freeze Dried?
"Mark Russell" wrote in message ink.net... ebd wrote: George wrote: Freezing point depression makes it highly unlikely he can freeze the sugar water in the wood. Gee that's interesting. Maple syrup is far more concentrated (I'm not sure of the actual ratio but I think it takes 30-40 gal of sap to make 1 gal of syrup) and it freezes just fine either in the fridge or chest freezer downstairs. You are quite right. I freeze syrup all the time. However it is a different thing to freeze 12" x 12" x 6" piece of log. Wood is a very poor conductor as opposed to water. so you will have to over come the insulating qualities of wood to freeze the log. I'm not saying it can't be done but it is going to take a long time to freeze all of the sap in wood. (my two cents) Bark's even a better insulator than wood. That's what the folks that study it say. Tree concentrates solutes by going dry(er) come winter. Makes it tough to freeze the only living part. Even tougher to freeze the interior. If you're simple and contentious like ebd, you gloss over all that ionic stuff. Of course, the tree doesn't waste valuable sugar on the heartwood. Phenols, phenyls, tannins, other things keep that from freezing easily. Not that it can't happen. Does, but it's in the big numbers below zero. Trunk sort of explodes, as if struck by lightning when it reaches its elastic limit. Saw it in Alaska while doing winter survival at Fairchild. |
#26
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Freeze Drie-nah. How bout critical point or triple point drying
A small market, perhaps!
On 22 Apr 2006 06:10:18 -0700, "ebd" wrote: jd, Cool idea - nanoturning. I can appreciate as a bio & computer geek. Don't think there would be much of a market though. -- NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth |
#27
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Freeze Dried?
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#28
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Freeze Dried?
Mark Russell wrote: freezer downstairs. Wood is a very poor conductor as opposed to water. so you will have to over come the insulating qualities of wood to freeze the log. I'm not saying it can't be done but it is going to take a long time to freeze all of the sap in wood. (my two cents) I'm not sure how long a block that size it might take in the fridge freezer (and even in the chest freezer). Outside in my unheated barn/shop, where it sits for days below freezing, I'm pretty sure it would freeze solid. A roughed out blank will freeze rather quickly, even in the refrigerator freezer. An inch of wood, particularly wet wood, doesn't provide much insulation. |
#29
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Freeze Dried?
I don't remember anything about high school chem. On the other hand I do
remember a lot about college chem. As a mater of fact I am currently taking a course in fluid dynamics. Its impossible to determine the freezing point of the sap in a log with knowing the chemical compounds present and their properties. That said I think it is impossible to say whether or not the sap would actually freeze at say 10 degrees F. I could try a simple experiment of putting pure maple syrup in the freezer and see what happens. This should have a lower freezing point than the sap of a tree based on you simplified approach. Of course I'm not sure why you say that bound water would not freeze. Are you under the impression that it is under great pressure or something? Also enlighten as to why it is impossible for a cell wall to break. I have not had a course in the microbiotics of cellulose structure.Tony Manella ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at") http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/ Lehigh Valley Woodturners http://www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com/ "George" George@least wrote in message ... "TonyM" tonym.le(atsymbol)comcast.net wrote in message . .. Charlie B, I've never actually tried dying a turned item in the freezer but I have stored wood (like holly) that gets blue stain quickly. It worked somewhat for that. As drying went, the ends of the log did check so I would think that some drying did occur. A freezer is a low humidity environment. Some here have hypothesized (many moons ago) that the expansion of the bound water in the cells will rupture the cell allowing for drying without cracking. I'm not sure if this ever panned out for anybody. It might be worth a try on your part though. Bound water would not freeze. Unbound water would require a temperature far lower than the home freezer unit. Remember your HS chemistry where they talked about freezing point depression in solutions? Then, of course, there's no way cellulose cell walls are going to break, not that they need to, there being no live tissue inside, and holes in them anyway. |
#30
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Freeze Dried?
Hi Tony, I barely remember college, nevermind chem 101. It sure is
nice to see your posts, hope this means they will be early & often now. Haven't been thru the Valley on the way to Maine in a while. Have they finally finished the highways? Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#31
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Freeze Dried?
On 20 Apr 2006 04:31:25 -0700, "ebd" wrote:
In a nut shell we are not discussing a Viable Method for Drying Wood so its back to the proven methods or the Soap Bath. Actually, we are. My shop is located in an unheated barn. Winter temperatures range from below freezing to below zero. I routinely cut slabs from green wood and allow them to dry while frozen. Rough turned blanks sit on the floor covered by shavings frozen. They are repeately subjected to thaw/freeze cycles as I heat the workshop to work and then let it go back to sub freezing. I have experienced NO cracking that wasn't due to wind shakes. I even tried putting the pith dead center through both sides in a number of blanks to see what would happen. Either no or minimal cracking. My experience is that it works. I'm going to have to throw in an anecdotal agreement. Whether it's a nice thing to do to the wood or not, I left a big pile of willow in my backyard all winter and it froze solid for at least two or three months. Since the weather has improved, I've got it sawn into blanks and set to dry in the shed, but I've turned a bunch of it with nice results. It's also been reported on other message boards that putting a green, rough turned blank into the freezer for several days/weeks prevents both cracking and to some extent warping/distortion. So it's working for other people as well. Oddly enough, I hadn't thought of it, but in the case of the willow mentioned above, it's been less prone to warping and cracking after it froze and rethawed. I had attributed it to improving technique, but I'm not doing anything all that different. Could be on to something, could be nothing, but living in Wisconsin, I'll just keep storing stuff in unheated buildings and if it works, great! |
#32
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Freeze Dried?
Hi Arch,
Do they ever finish the highways anywhere? Its spring again here which means more detours than you can count. I still read the group but most questions get answered before I can chime in. Not many of us "old timers" (anyone here longer than 3 years) left here. Always nice to seem them post though. Tony Manella ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at") http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/ Lehigh Valley Woodturners "Arch" wrote in message ... Hi Tony, I barely remember college, nevermind chem 101. It sure is nice to see your posts, hope this means they will be early & often now. Haven't been thru the Valley on the way to Maine in a while. Have they finally finished the highways? Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#33
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Freeze Dried?
"Prometheus" wrote in message ... I'm going to have to throw in an anecdotal agreement. Whether it's a nice thing to do to the wood or not, I left a big pile of willow in my backyard all winter and it froze solid for at least two or three months. Since the weather has improved, I've got it sawn into blanks and set to dry in the shed, but I've turned a bunch of it with nice results. Hard to get willow to crack at all, in my experience. Whole family of cottonwood/willow/poplars are bulletproof in drying. |
#34
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Freeze Dried?
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 17:05:21 -0400, "George" George@least wrote:
"Prometheus" wrote in message .. . I'm going to have to throw in an anecdotal agreement. Whether it's a nice thing to do to the wood or not, I left a big pile of willow in my backyard all winter and it froze solid for at least two or three months. Since the weather has improved, I've got it sawn into blanks and set to dry in the shed, but I've turned a bunch of it with nice results. Hard to get willow to crack at all, in my experience. Whole family of cottonwood/willow/poplars are bulletproof in drying. I got a few cracks right away, but not many- so it's likely that's the case. Good news for me, anyhow. Now if only it smelled a little better.... |
#35
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Freeze Dried?
"Prometheus" wrote in message ... I got a few cracks right away, but not many- so it's likely that's the case. Good news for me, anyhow. Now if only it smelled a little better.... Sadly, even if you get it wet later, like when setting the fuzz prior to final sanding, it'll smell like willow again. Great ornament wood, with the shimmer and low weight, though. |
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