The wood finally spoke to me last night. Actually it laughed at me.
"Arch, you are one miserable woodturner". "Once you let me have them,
circular streaks are mine".

"Sharpen your tools til they are scary, shear scrape wisps off me as
gently as you will, power sand my surface both electric and angle driven
from 60g to 600g, repeat it all by hand with the grain till the cows
come home, reverse the lathe, speed it up, slow it down, raise the fuzz
with holy water". "petition. incant, om, whatever you believe you may as
well give up, get out your best gouge and start over". "No matter what
you do once you add a clear finish my circular streaks shall return and
you can't buff them out".

"You will never take my circular streaks from me, I'm an NIP. All we
open grain timbers think streaks are good things and we'll fight to keep
them. I know your peers think they are ugly, but you may as well give up
and get over it".
***************************************
Fellow turners, I need help. Is there an answer to this arrogant NIP's
streaking or are there some things that good technique can't buy and for
everything else there's rcw.
*****************************************
p.s. Sorry to have posted a lot of word salads lately. A simple "How do
you get rid of circular streaks?" was enough.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch,
I must admit that I have been trying to figure that one out for a
while, with only moderate success. Sometimes there are a million of
them, sometimes only a few, some times none, sometimes they sand out,
sometimes you can sand through to the other side, and they are still
there, even though they don't show on the outside. For some reason,
they appear 95% of the time on the inside of the bowl and not on the
outside. Some one told me it is because of rubbing the bevel and to
grind off the shoulder of your gouge. that seems to work, but only
sometimes. Why? My best guess is that it is some variation of Murphy's
Law.
robo hippy

Hi Arch

NO PROBLEM

Just freeze them, put your lathe there too, jump right in there with it
and start turning, them fibers will stand up straight and never budge.
Tong Firmly Planted In Cheek. that's worth 2 cents Canadian I think.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Thanks robo, Misery does love company and it's good not to be alone. The
bevel burnishing suggestion seems reasonable, but my money's on Murphy.


Thanks Leo, moving my turning shop into a walk-in cooler for summer in
S. Fla. is more a two dollar than a two cent idea.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch wrote:
The wood finally spoke to me last night. Actually it laughed at me.
"Arch, you are one miserable woodturner". "Once you let me have them,
circular streaks are mine".

Arch,

Annoying little varmints aren't they!

I'm guessing that what you are referring to is sub-surface damage. This
is usually caused by either the cutting edge tearing or bending wood
fibers rather than cutting them, or the bevel burnishing the wood and
compressing the fibers. Either way, you end up with a ring of wood that
looks different than that on either side, and takes a lot of sanding to
remove because it goes below the surface.

The best solution is not to let this happen in the first place. As robo
points out, on the inside of a bowl some improvement can be seen by
using a gouge with a short bevel, either one with a secondary bevel, or
just by using a small diameter gouge.

Next best plan is to make absolutely sure that the first grade of
abrasive removes the rings. There is little point in moving on to
subsequent grits before this is achieved. If you haven't got it out with
100 grit, 600 grit ain't going to touch it. The only thing 600g will do,
is highlight the damage, so sometimes it is worth giving it a quick wipe
with a finer grit to help you confirm that the ring has gone. Then of
course you go back and step through the grits in the proper sequence.

But the essential thing is to carefully inspect the surface with the
lathe off, all the way around, before moving to finer grits.

If the damage is caused by bevel rubbing and fiber compression, it may
be worth putting the bowl through a grain raising before the first
sanding. Just dunk it in a sink of clean hot water for a minute or two,
then leave to dry before sanding. I do this as a matter of course on
food-use bowls anyway.

Here is a blog post on related sanding problems
http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com/Th...ng-advise.html

I hope this helps Arch

--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
http://chipshop.blogspot.com - a blog for my customers
http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com/TheToolrest/ - a blog for woodturners

Hi Arch:

I have minimal experience with NIP, but one thing that I have found to
help with other woods is to rub paste wax into the nasty area, then
power sand. If you have a really bad place, you may want to start with
60 grit, sanding with the piece still. It may take more than one wax
application: oh-you do not need to let the wax dry. Just rub it in
and go for it. Hope this helps
Kip Powers
Rogers, AR

Hi Derek, Thanks for a clear explanation of my problem and your logical
and helpful suggestions for solving it. I'll sure give a try tomorrow
with hopes your advice will help me and maybe some others. BTW, I really
enjoyed moseying around in your blog. Some helpful and interesting stuff
there.

Thanks Kip, I'll try your suggestion with the others and just maybe some
of these streaks will go away. I don't know why they are so inconsistent
since I use the same techniques... or think I do.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

In my (limited) experience I have found that if you treat the streaks like
trolls they eventually lose interest and go away.


"Arch" wrote in message
...
The wood finally spoke to me last night. Actually it laughed at me.
"Arch, you are one miserable woodturner". "Once you let me have them,
circular streaks are mine".

"Sharpen your tools til they are scary, shear scrape wisps off me as
gently as you will, power sand my surface both electric and angle driven
from 60g to 600g, repeat it all by hand with the grain till the cows
come home, reverse the lathe, speed it up, slow it down, raise the fuzz
with holy water". "petition. incant, om, whatever you believe you may as
well give up, get out your best gouge and start over". "No matter what
you do once you add a clear finish my circular streaks shall return and
you can't buff them out".

"You will never take my circular streaks from me, I'm an NIP. All we
open grain timbers think streaks are good things and we'll fight to keep
them. I know your peers think they are ugly, but you may as well give up
and get over it".
***************************************
Fellow turners, I need help. Is there an answer to this arrogant NIP's
streaking or are there some things that good technique can't buy and for
everything else there's rcw.
*****************************************
p.s. Sorry to have posted a lot of word salads lately. A simple "How do
you get rid of circular streaks?" was enough.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Thanks Kevin, I haven't even limited experience with them, but it's
probably the same way with streakers.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

The only way I've been able to completely remove them all is to sand by
hand in between grits, or with a foam backed or plastic power wheel on
my drill or other motor. I avoid doing the last grit on the lathe if I
can, except if I've decided to polish with rouge or something. If the
wood has been pressed real hard, as with the bevel of a gouge,
sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and sand really deep.

Most times I stop at 220 or 320 grit, but if it's going to be used as a
tool, like in the kitchen, I stop at 150 or even 100. If it's a fine
grained wood that will polish well, I might go to 600 and polish with
rouge, but in ALL cases you have to pretty much lick the rings at about
100-150 grit or you're stuck with them.

In recent years I've been sandblasting almost everything, and this
helps a great deal with the rings, but I still have to stop while my
compressor rests and look at the wood real close in strong light to see
the circular marks and mark those places that need more ring removal
work, or go over them with 150 grit by hand.

Once the finish is on, it's often too late to fix without clogging lots
of paper with finish or sandblasting the whole surface again.

Use STRONG LIGHT (direct sunlight is best), CLOSE INSPECTION at 150
grit, turning the piece in your hands to look at it from different
angles. Off the Lathe inspection is going to give you the best chance
of finding the buggers.