Along the lines of the woodworking bench I built, the lathe bench in
progress
warrants the title Das Lathe Bench. Have begun putting up web pages on
it genesis and construction. I've got $25 in baltic birch ply, $50 in
#9
lead birdshot and $60 in the beefy, adjustable from the top with an
allen
wrench, leg levelers (same as on the work bench)

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...eBenchTOC.html

Probably over kill - by an order of magnitude - but it should do its job
when finished - the finish being multiple coats of dewaxed garnet
shellac-
as in 10 or more coats.

Comments, suggestions, constructive criticism appreciated.

charlie b

Hey Charlie

You better make that lathe center a couple inches higher than your
elbow height, it works better for most of us.
And strictly speaking the elbow of you could be higher than the center
of the lathe, depends on how high you have the toolrest, like in
skimming the top of a cylinder with a skew, yes this is nitpicking, ok
maybe Im a Little jealous of your to be lathe bench, just a tiny
little bit.
I'm going to love this thread I think

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 00:29:58 -0800, charlie b wrote:

Along the lines of the woodworking bench I built, the lathe bench in
progress
warrants the title Das Lathe Bench. Have begun putting up web pages on
it genesis and construction. I've got $25 in baltic birch ply, $50 in
#9
lead birdshot and $60 in the beefy, adjustable from the top with an
allen
wrench, leg levelers (same as on the work bench)

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...eBenchTOC.html

Probably over kill - by an order of magnitude - but it should do its job
when finished - the finish being multiple coats of dewaxed garnet
shellac-
as in 10 or more coats.

Comments, suggestions, constructive criticism appreciated.

charlie b

It would have been faster and less expensive to buy the legs for the mini, but
that wouldn't be woodworking.. *g*

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Charlie, Das bench looks nice and will be a welcome addition. A lathe
deserves a bench of its own. I made my mini's bench high enough to
accomodate a wooden platform and mat across the sleds with the centers
an inch or so above my elbow. IMHO, most woodturning lathe centers are
set too low (or most woodturner's backs are set too high) for efficiency
and comfort.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Along the lines of the woodworking bench I built, the lathe bench in
progress
warrants the title Das Lathe Bench. Have begun putting up web pages on
it genesis and construction. I've got $25 in baltic birch ply, $50 in
#9
lead birdshot and $60 in the beefy, adjustable from the top with an
allen
wrench, leg levelers (same as on the work bench)

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...eBenchTOC.html

Probably over kill - by an order of magnitude - but it should do its job
when finished - the finish being multiple coats of dewaxed garnet
shellac-
as in 10 or more coats.

Comments, suggestions, constructive criticism appreciated.

charlie b
=====================

Charlie,
A question and a comment:

Q. How many pounds of bird shot does $60.00 buy?

C. Do you plan to do any finishing on the lathe? If so, I'd recommend a
couple of coats of polyurethane over the shellac, or you'll have the finish
spotted by the solvents in your finishing products. The poly may spot some,
but not nearly as much as shellac.
Just my opinion, YMMV.

Ken Moon
Webberville, TX.

wrote:

Hey Charlie

You better make that lathe center a couple inches higher than your
elbow height, it works better for most of us.
And strictly speaking the elbow of you could be higher than the center
of the lathe, depends on how high you have the toolrest, like in
skimming the top of a cylinder with a skew, yes this is nitpicking,

Good point - and the type of thing I'm looking for. As a semi-
newbie to furniture making, and a relatively newbie turner,
I don't know enough to know what I'm overlooking/don't know
but need to know.

WHAT?!

It's the Newbie Conundrum.

It's a lot easier to build furniture if you have a real,
functional woodworking bench - suited to the type of
stuff you're making and the tools and methods you use
to make them. But to make a real, functional. wood-
working bench you need to have made a few pieces of
furniture. Only then do you have the beginnings of
an understanding of what it's supposed to / can do
AND
the knowledge, skills and the ability to chose and make
the joinery to build the damn thing.

Like a good woodworking bench, a good lathe bench should
be a lot more than just something to get the lathe up
where you can use it easily - and well. It should fit
you and how you work as well as where you work.
- its conext. The lathe bench can be a tool that helps
you - or works against you.

If you like to keep two or three chisels/gouges you use
often on the bench top where they're handy
- do you want them under the lathe?
if so,
-is there enough clearance under anything the
cutting edge might hit - and get dinged?
- what about the ends of the base? Rather than
a sharp cuttng edge accidently encountering
cast iron, how about getting the cast iron up
an inch or so with some blocks of wood. Wood
is kinder and gentler to cutting edges
or
- do you want them off to the side of the lathe
if so
- which side or both sides?
- how much room - both depth and width

Lathes generate a tremendous amount of debris.
Do you want the bench to help contain it and make
it easier to clean up? If so, how can that be done
WITHOUT getting in the way of the type of turning
- you're doing now - or may want to try later?

What about lighting? Do you want a task light
or two -and
if so - where - a sfixed mounting spot or the
option for moving it/them around as needed?

Do you want to keep some or all of the lathe
"accesssories" (chuck(s), chuck key(s), centers,
face plate(s), chuck jaws, calipers, etc.) and
maybe sanding stuff - with the bench or some
where close by?

Are you going to be doing any "face turning"/
"end turning"/ bowl and or hollow form turning?
If so
- can your head stock be turned so you can face it?
or
- will you have to work from the opposite end
of the lathe bed?
if the latter
should the lathe be mounted as far to the right
as possible so you can stand facing the end of
the bench in line with the lathe's center's line?

Are you going to need to get under the bench for
any reason - a tool leaping off the bench and
scurrying under it, a screw escaping and finding
refuge under the bench . . .

How are you going to level the bench? Are you
satisfied with shimming or do you want to go
with leg levelers. If levelers, how are you
going to adjust them (I personaly hate to have
to lay down under something and try to get a
wrench or two into a spot I can't see)? Do I
want to use the levelers to also elevate the
working height if necessary?

For my woodworking bench I studied a lot
of different types of benches and bench hardware.
I learned what different components do and
do well - for a certain type of work. I picked
what would likely do best for what I want to
make and then built Das Bench. Having now
used it for a couple of years, it does almost
everything I want it to do - giant versatile
clamp, sturdy pound on it surface - at a
convenient height (you only get issued one
spine - and it has a duty life)

This lathe bench is going to be a tool that'll
make it easier to use the tool it's going to
hold. I only want to make one Das Lathe
Bench - at least only one for this lathe -
a JET mini/midi. And yes, I've built in
an option for lengthening the bench if
and when I put the bed extension, which
I already have, on the lathe.

Come on folks, there has to be things
you wish you'd done when you did your
lathe supporter/tool.

ok
maybe Im a Little jealous of your to be lathe bench, just a tiny
little bit.
I'm going to love this thread I think


That's assuming that folks participate.

I like woodworking - in many of its manifestations.

I hate re-inventing the wheel.

I really like learning "why" in addition to "how".

I'm proned to passing on what I've learned so
perhaps someone else doesn't have to re-invent
the wheel.

Have fun

That's why I do it.

and take care

Still got all my fingers, albeit one usually
with a band aide or tape - the Les Nesman
from WKRP thing - and both eyes that work
adequately.

Same to you fella

charlie b

charlie b wrote:

What about lighting? Do you want a task light
or two -and
if so - where - a sfixed mounting spot or the
option for moving it/them around as needed?



FWIW, I've got two halogens hanging from the ceiling. Gives me plenty of
light and keeps me warm in the winter. Summers I open the doors.

In article ,
(Arch) wrote:

IMHO, most woodturning lathe centers are
set too low (or most woodturner's backs are set too high) for efficiency
and comfort.

Over on WOW there was a general consensus that nipple height was right.

--
Remove no & spam to email

meet me at:
http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/Galoots/pHyde/

charlie b wrote:
Along the lines of the woodworking bench I built, the lathe bench in

Snip

Comments, suggestions, constructive criticism appreciated.

charlie b

Charlie,
It sure looks like it will be a heck of a bench. I'm also looking
forward to reading this thread, so I thought I'd help generate some
discussion.

Here is some info about my bench and lathes, in no particular order.
Hopefully it'll give you more ammunition for designing "Das Bench".

My large Vicmarc lathe spindle height is the same as the measurement at
the inside of my elbow (top of my forearm when bent 90 degrees). My mini
lathe on a bench is 2 inches below that (47 and 45 inches). I find the
larger lathe more comfortable to work at for long periods. I personally
wouldn't want to go much higher than the inside of my elbow, I have
tried the lathe at a taller height and some cuts feel like I'm really
stretching...but that might be because I was really stretching

You might want to consider a pad for the floor in front of your lathe
when thinking about the center height. I set the Vicmarc center height
(using vibration dampening machine feet), so that it is right for me
when I stand on a rubber floor cushion...It sure makes the concrete
floor much friendlier to the feet.

I made my mini lathe bench a few years before I bought the lathe and was
just lucky that it fit reasonably well. Some of the things that I
learned about the table.

It's long enough to mount a 6" grinder on the table at the tailend
of the lathe (or add an extension if you wish). I can sharpen a tool and
be back to turning in no time. If you decide to mount a grinder, make
sure to leave room to get the tail stock on and off.

The bench is mounted on casters which makes it portable. It's
rather heavy so I haven't had a problem with it rolling around. The
goofy thing has become our turning club's portable demo lathe, having
the grinder attached really helps in this respect.

I have two drawers under the table top for all of the stuff that I
use while turning or doing a demo, they are very handy.

I often put the tools that I am using under the mini lathe or to the
right of it. (I miss this on the Vicmarc...but built a little table that
will sit on the bed to hold stuff...but things fall over to the other
side more often)

I do start to loose tools on the bench if I allow the shavings to
accumulate too much. For me, it's less aggravating to vacuum the floor
than hunt for the tools in the chips...

Leo is exactly right about light, I would design some way to mount a
light that can shine into a vessel that's being hollowed, or the inside
of a bowl. For me, those are the hardest things to get bright enough.

Good Luck with your bench,
Keith Hughes

Hi Charlie

I'm back with some more, we talked about clearance and yes I would get
more clearance, reason why, the placement of the motor makes for bad
air circulation, it gets buried under shavings, also if you stick a
tool under the lathe there is less chance of damage to tool or lathe if
you have more clearance, and you can find hiding screws etc. easier,
and cleanout also, for these reasons do I have my lathe not screwed
down, but set on 2 studs, so I can lift the lathe up and move it
around, more about this later.
To the left edge of my setup are several holes drilled to fit # 2 MT
accessories and some smaller holes for knockout bar drill chuck key and
allen wrench, woodworm screw, some more.
Now for the tailstock end, I always end up with more stuff there than I
want and have to clean up regularly, what I don't want there is taller
stuff, no grinder for me, reason is, like today I was turning a goblet,
and want to be able to use a heavy scraper and any taller item on the
end would be interfering with me doing that, now here's another reason
for not screwing down the lathe, I can lift it off the studs and place
it closer to the right side so I can stand to the side and turn that
way if I like to, I probably will make some holes for studs there, not
sure yet.
To level the bench, if it does not rock and stand on it's 4 feet, that
would do IMO, being exactly level is not that important, within reason
of course.
Well this is it again for now, something to consider, oh yes one other
thing, I screwed a powerbar to the bottom back side, keeps out the
dust, and it is very handy to be able to plug your lights, lathe, power
sander etc. in without all the cords in the way.

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum25.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

"Peter Hyde" wrote in message
...
In article ,
(Arch) wrote:

IMHO, most woodturning lathe centers are
set too low (or most woodturner's backs are set too high) for efficiency
and comfort.

Over on WOW there was a general consensus that nipple height was right.

Assuming that was for the males only?

Depends on how you cut. I cut at centerline, even on bowls, so the elbow
rule works best for me. The hand and elbow remain close to the same relaxed
position for all cuts.

On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 08:20:33 -0500, "George" George@least wrote:


"Peter Hyde" wrote in message
...
In article ,
(Arch) wrote:

IMHO, most woodturning lathe centers are
set too low (or most woodturner's backs are set too high) for efficiency
and comfort.

Over on WOW there was a general consensus that nipple height was right.

Assuming that was for the males only?

good point... So if you see any old ladies on their knees at the lathe... *rofl*

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Mac

Bad BAD
GG

Ken Moon wrote:

charlie b
=====================

Charlie,
A question and a comment:

Q. How many pounds of bird shot does $60.00 buy?

A: 60 pounds

C. Do you plan to do any finishing on the lathe?

A: Yes, but not any slop it on and flood the surface

If so, I'd recommend a
couple of coats of polyurethane over the shellac, or you'll have the finish
spotted by the solvents in your finishing products. The poly may spot some,
but not nearly as much as shellac.

Poly is a mixed blessing. Resists solvents - but not easy to
repair like shellac.

Just my opinion, YMMV.

Thanks for the suggestion

charlie b

Already did a chisels and gouge holder which is
also a carrying case. Sits on the floor to the
right of the bench. It puts the top of the handles
where they can be gotten to without bending over.

Am also thinking about down angling tubes on
the side of the right side of the bench

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...Turning11.html

Am seriously considering putting the Tormek on a shelf
on the left side of the bench, with a drawer for the
jigs. Having there will increase the likelyhood that
I'll sharpen a tool as soon as it loses its edge rather
than continuing until it gets really dull.

Have to figure out how to get it up high enough to
use easily, but protected from flying chips and
curlies which stream off of turned wood, especially
when turning green wood or all the bark chunks
that fly all over hell.. The simple solution would
be to use the bright yellow canvas cover Tormek
has - but that would be too easy.

Goose neck high intensity lamps are small so
they don't get in the way much and can be
positioned better than the two arms with
springs. Think I'll skip the halogen overhead,
too hot. Cold isn't often a problem in the
San Francisco Bay area - for which I'm
most grateful.

More suggestions?

charlie b

On 28 Feb 2006 09:33:15 -0800, "
wrote:

Mac

Bad BAD
GG


Sorry, just couldn't help it... *g*

We were in Baja for spring break last year and when someone in the crowd yelled
"show us your tits" to a group of bead catchers, our neighbor said that she'd
have to lift her shirt a few inches to do that... just stuck in my dirty mind, I
guess..
Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Hi Charlie

Yes have your grinder close by, I was lucky in that I got a 3/4" thick,
7' x 30" piece of lexan from the engineering department at UWO
university when they were doing some remodeling, an use that as a wall
between my lathe and grinder, it stops the shavings and the grit, but
not the light.
Maybe a piece of plexiglas could be used on the end of your bench, for
keeping the shavings close by, I also have 2 shower curtains to stop
the airborne chips, slide them out of the way when not needed.
hope you have a dry grinder beside the tormek, turning tools are murder
on the tormek when shaping them, apparently, I don't have one, just
hearsay.
Goose neck lights are ok if they have enough reach, most I see have too
short a flex neck.
Halogen is what I use in the bench light, they are hot, but a regular
100w bulb is hot too, and gives less light than the 50w halogen bulb
with the build in reflector, the halogen bulb is deep enough in the
lamp shade, so I don,t brush up against it.
No more ideas right now, waiting for the finished bench,
.................what's the holdup anyway GG ???

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum4.html

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

On Wed, 01 Mar 2006 23:11:49 -0800, charlie b wrote:

I also have 2 shower curtains to stop
the airborne chips, slide them out of the way when not needed.

That would be WAY too easy.

being lazy, my shaving control is even easier, Charlie.. *lol

I bought a couple of 4x8' sheets of 3/4" foam with plastic faces for about 8
bucks each...

When I'm going to be making a lot of shavings, I lean one against the 2 bench
stools to keep the shavings away from the bench... works really well, even
though it's only 4' high.. When the turning is done and I move the foam, the
shavings are stacked up and ready to be scooped..

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm