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Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
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#1
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Sorry for the off topic post
I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all
the people out there some one may have the answer. My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a web site I would be happy to go there. Sorry again for the off topic post. Bruce |
#2
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Sorry for the off topic post
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#3
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Sorry for the off topic post
Bruce, if you can't unscrew the plug, instead of messing about with old
lead, oakum and frozen threads it might be easier to just hacksaw (actually I urged mine with a sledge) the clean out off and replace it with a PVC fitting using adjustable vinyl compression couplings. Real plumbers are laughing to keep from crying. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#4
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Sorry for the off topic post
Thanks Arch, that would be the last straw. I believe all of tham are the
same way. It would be a chore but cheaper that a plumber to come out and do the same thing. Bruce "Arch" wrote in message ... Bruce, if you can't unscrew the plug, instead of messing about with old lead, oakum and frozen threads it might be easier to just hacksaw (actually I urged mine with a sledge) the clean out off and replace it with a PVC fitting using adjustable vinyl compression couplings. Real plumbers are laughing to keep from crying. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings |
#5
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Sorry for the off topic post
"Arch" wrote in message ... Bruce, if you can't unscrew the plug, instead of messing about with old lead, oakum and frozen threads it might be easier to just hacksaw (actually I urged mine with a sledge) the clean out off and replace it with a PVC fitting using adjustable vinyl compression couplings. Real plumbers are laughing to keep from crying. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter Arch! You must have been a chirurgen. Typical answer: cut, cut, cut! *G* Actually your suggestion was exactly what I did under my house in San Bernardino, many years ago. I rented a ratching cutter (they're made for just such "operations" and resected the old iron pipe and installed new plastic cleanout and junctions for the new grey water connections using expandable rubber connectors with large hose clamps to remate the with the resectioned ends of the iron pipe. Worked like a charm, with not too much labor under the house, although I could have used a pretty nurse to mop my fevered brow! *G* Leif |
#6
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Sorry for the off topic post
Racheting cutter. Is that like a cutter for copper pipe? It just goes round
and round ant the pipe is cut off?? I was thinking hack saw or saber saw with a metal cutting blade. I have seen saber saws at Harbor Freight and thought if they lasted long enough it would work. Leif I cant resist this.....How long did you soak that pipe in LLD to make it soft enough to cut?? Bruce "Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message ... "Arch" wrote in message ... Bruce, if you can't unscrew the plug, instead of messing about with old lead, oakum and frozen threads it might be easier to just hacksaw (actually I urged mine with a sledge) the clean out off and replace it with a PVC fitting using adjustable vinyl compression couplings. Real plumbers are laughing to keep from crying. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter Arch! You must have been a chirurgen. Typical answer: cut, cut, cut! *G* Actually your suggestion was exactly what I did under my house in San Bernardino, many years ago. I rented a ratching cutter (they're made for just such "operations" and resected the old iron pipe and installed new plastic cleanout and junctions for the new grey water connections using expandable rubber connectors with large hose clamps to remate the with the resectioned ends of the iron pipe. Worked like a charm, with not too much labor under the house, although I could have used a pretty nurse to mop my fevered brow! *G* Leif |
#7
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Sorry for the off topic post
==== Ok, I'll 'fess up. This was in the days BLDD. If I knew then about
the efficacy of LDD on anything, I would certainly have used it as the lubricant for the cutting chain. Check out: http://www.reedmfgco.com/index.html?...l_pipe_cutters As to the couplers, try looking at: http://www.fernco.com/coupling.asp LDD can be very effective in lubricating the pipe for slipping on the rubber coupler. Arch led me astray, I had forgotten that these were not quite as flexible as he stated. All of that can be laid out before the installation. Hope this helps, Leif I would imagine that a tool rental agency would have them to rent. That's where I got mine. "Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message ... Racheting cutter. Is that like a cutter for copper pipe? It just goes round and round ant the pipe is cut off?? I was thinking hack saw or saber saw with a metal cutting blade. I have seen saber saws at Harbor Freight and thought if they lasted long enough it would work. Leif I cant resist this.....How long did you soak that pipe in LLD to make it soft enough to cut?? Bruce "Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message ... "Arch" wrote in message ... Bruce, if you can't unscrew the plug, instead of messing about with old lead, oakum and frozen threads it might be easier to just hacksaw (actually I urged mine with a sledge) the clean out off and replace it with a PVC fitting using adjustable vinyl compression couplings. Real plumbers are laughing to keep from crying. Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter Arch! You must have been a chirurgen. Typical answer: cut, cut, cut! *G* Actually your suggestion was exactly what I did under my house in San Bernardino, many years ago. I rented a ratching cutter (they're made for just such "operations" and resected the old iron pipe and installed new plastic cleanout and junctions for the new grey water connections using expandable rubber connectors with large hose clamps to remate the with the resectioned ends of the iron pipe. Worked like a charm, with not too much labor under the house, although I could have used a pretty nurse to mop my fevered brow! *G* Leif |
#9
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Sorry for the off topic post
The fittings are called Fernco fittings and you will find them at HD.
They are in the plumbing section, usually above the regular pvc fittings. If you have a sawzall, Lenox makes a blade especially for cutting cast iron,works well. I have found that not all cast iron pipe cuts the same. Some pipe seems to cut easily, others take 10 minutes to cut thru. Most of the time with a new blade I cut thru 4" pipe in 3 minutes or less. mike |
#10
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Sorry for the off topic post
The way the sewer cleaning firms do it around here looks scary
but it works. Those large threaded plugs are usually brass. They pound the edge with a cold chisel and hammer, until they can remove it. It won't be reusable, of course. Then they replace it with a plastic plug, which will come out much easier next time. Don't get too attached to the old brass plug. Pound away. Bruce Ferguson wrote: I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all the people out there some one may have the answer. My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a web site I would be happy to go there. Sorry again for the off topic post. Bruce |
#11
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Sorry for the off topic post
I had taken apart one that was on the outside of the house for the washer
when I found the screw within the plug thing. After putting it back several times I put a rubber cap that just streachd across it. I think the plug was also cast iron but I didn't scratcch to see. Bruce "Mike Berger" wrote in message ... The way the sewer cleaning firms do it around here looks scary but it works. Those large threaded plugs are usually brass. They pound the edge with a cold chisel and hammer, until they can remove it. It won't be reusable, of course. Then they replace it with a plastic plug, which will come out much easier next time. Don't get too attached to the old brass plug. Pound away. Bruce Ferguson wrote: I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all the people out there some one may have the answer. My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a web site I would be happy to go there. Sorry again for the off topic post. Bruce |
#12
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Sorry for the off topic post
Thanks for all the sugestions. I think I will go with the least order of
severity. First the penetrating oil. I had used W-40 but the penatrating oil is made for doing just this. If I can find the old plug I could experement with the bang out the screw plug idea. At work we use human performance tools to cut down on human error and one of them is "how bad can it get". Well under the house if the bang out the plug dosn't work than it is hard to go back. Arches sugestion would be the last but it would cure it for all times. Thanks for all the help, great group even for non turning subjects. Thanks again, Bruce "Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message ... I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all the people out there some one may have the answer. My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a web site I would be happy to go there. Sorry again for the off topic post. Bruce |
#13
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Sorry for the off topic post
Try a little steel wool on the plug and make sure it is brass.
These often have a special wrench , a pipewrench or adjustable is going to make a small mess. You can try icing the plug, same effect as heating the surrounding pipe with no fire risk. |
#14
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Sorry for the off topic post
I've become a fan of diy.net when it comes to problems like this. Find
the forums or internal dicussion groups and ask your question. Bruce Ferguson wrote: I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all the people out there some one may have the answer. My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a web site I would be happy to go there. Sorry again for the off topic post. Bruce |
#15
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Sorry for the off topic post
Thanks I will try that. Ice that is another thought. I am picking up alot
of good suggestions. Bruce "william kossack" wrote in message ... I've become a fan of diy.net when it comes to problems like this. Find the forums or internal dicussion groups and ask your question. Bruce Ferguson wrote: I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all the people out there some one may have the answer. My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a web site I would be happy to go there. Sorry again for the off topic post. Bruce |
#16
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Sorry for the off topic post
Don't forget that free advice is often worth what you pay for it
especially on the rec Bruce Ferguson wrote: Thanks I will try that. Ice that is another thought. I am picking up alot of good suggestions. Bruce "william kossack" wrote in message ... I've become a fan of diy.net when it comes to problems like this. Find the forums or internal dicussion groups and ask your question. Bruce Ferguson wrote: I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all the people out there some one may have the answer. My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a web site I would be happy to go there. Sorry again for the off topic post. Bruce |
#17
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Sorry for the off topic post
Bruce Ferguson said:
I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all the people out there some one may have the answer. snip If you can't ask your friends, who can you? I've seen a few of the suggestions here, and here is my observation. Ductile iron pipes and poured lead/oakum packed joints. Quiet, durable, and a real PITA to modify. DAMHIKT If all you are trying to do is remove the cleanout plug, I wouldn't cut into the piping just yet. Every joint, every seam is a potential leak or problem. Sometimes, the piping supports the weight of the pipe above it. A boot will not provide that support and I'm not all that fond of boots, but that's just me. Why don't you just drill out the offending plug. Several 1/2" or so holes around the plug, avoiding the threads, if there are any. If it's a cast plug, it's brittle, if it's brass, it'll chip out. Just don't bang around so much on the whole affair that you loosen other joints. Lead poured joints WILL seep gas if jarred too much. JMHO, Greg G. |
#18
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Sorry for the off topic post
Just a thought, if you apply heat and it gets the adjacent lead
joint(s) hot enough to melt... Have been replacing old (1965) cast iron/oakum-lead jointed pipes in our townhouse over last 10 years as they start to leak at the joints, using new ABS and rubber couplings, also have rubber caps over the major cleanouts which get cleaned out at least annually (tree roots). No leakage or stoppage problems so far. |
#19
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Sorry for the off topic post
Bruce Ferguson wrote:
I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all the people out there some one may have the answer. My experience with cast iron sewerpipes has been only to knock them out for replacement by PVC, but I know the stuff is quite brittle--almost like glass. Probably not very fun to use a hacksaw or any metal-cutting type of blade on this stuff. We just took a sledgehammer to it. I'd concentrate on unscrewing the plug, using lots of heat and a penetrating spray. The heat will help the spray wick into the threads. Whatever kind of wrench you can get on the plug, use a long piece of pipe on the handle for leverage. For future reference, the newsgroup alt.home.repair is where I go--among the self-described "expurts", there are a few people who can answer this intelligently. Not that I object to you posting here, as long as you're a woodturner Good luck! Ken Grunke http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/ ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
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