Sorry for the off topic post
 

I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all
the people out there some one may have the answer.

My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the
house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered
piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in the
middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you think
heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the
piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to
dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess
you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a
web site I would be happy to go there.
Sorry again for the off topic post.

Bruce

Sorry for the off topic post
 

In article ,
says...
Question, do you think
heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the
piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to
dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess
you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a
web site I would be happy to go there.
Sorry again for the off topic post.

Get a can of PB Blaster (penetrating release spray) and spray the thing
down and let it sit for a couple of hours. Add some heat to the outside,
the part the screw-in bit screws INTO, and TAP GENTLY to get more of the
blaster into the threads. Try wrenching it, reapply blaster as needed-
it might take three or four applications with heat and light tapping.

BTDT, worked to release the cleanouts in my 1920's house. Before
replacing the plug, coat the threads in wither teflon goop or use anit-
sieze compound.
good luck, hope this helps

--
Just some random guy,
Pull the _PLUG_ to email

Sorry for the off topic post
 

The way the sewer cleaning firms do it around here looks scary
but it works. Those large threaded plugs are usually brass.
They pound the edge with a cold chisel and hammer, until they
can remove it. It won't be reusable, of course. Then they
replace it with a plastic plug, which will come out much easier
next time.

Don't get too attached to the old brass plug. Pound away.

Bruce Ferguson wrote:
I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all
the people out there some one may have the answer.

My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the
house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered
piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in the
middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you think
heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the
piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to
dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess
you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a
web site I would be happy to go there.
Sorry again for the off topic post.

Bruce

Sorry for the off topic post
 

Bruce, if you can't unscrew the plug, instead of messing about with old
lead, oakum and frozen threads it might be easier to just hacksaw
(actually I urged mine with a sledge) the clean out off and replace it
with a PVC fitting using adjustable vinyl compression couplings.

Real plumbers are laughing to keep from crying. :)


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Sorry for the off topic post
 

Thanks Arch, that would be the last straw. I believe all of tham are the
same way. It would be a chore but cheaper that a plumber to come out and do
the same thing.

Bruce
"Arch" wrote in message
...
Bruce, if you can't unscrew the plug, instead of messing about with old
lead, oakum and frozen threads it might be easier to just hacksaw
(actually I urged mine with a sledge) the clean out off and replace it
with a PVC fitting using adjustable vinyl compression couplings.

Real plumbers are laughing to keep from crying. :)


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Sorry for the off topic post
 

I will write that down and try Home Depot to see if they have it. I wonder
if it would be in the plumbing section.

Bruce
"VRadin" wrote in message
.net...
In article ,
says...
Question, do you think
heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or
the
piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more
to
dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I
guess
you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows
a
web site I would be happy to go there.
Sorry again for the off topic post.

Get a can of PB Blaster (penetrating release spray) and spray the thing
down and let it sit for a couple of hours. Add some heat to the outside,
the part the screw-in bit screws INTO, and TAP GENTLY to get more of the
blaster into the threads. Try wrenching it, reapply blaster as needed-
it might take three or four applications with heat and light tapping.

BTDT, worked to release the cleanouts in my 1920's house. Before
replacing the plug, coat the threads in wither teflon goop or use anit-
sieze compound.
good luck, hope this helps

--
Just some random guy,
Pull the _PLUG_ to email

Sorry for the off topic post
 

I had taken apart one that was on the outside of the house for the washer
when I found the screw within the plug thing. After putting it back several
times I put a rubber cap that just streachd across it. I think the plug was
also cast iron but I didn't scratcch to see.

Bruce

"Mike Berger" wrote in message
...
The way the sewer cleaning firms do it around here looks scary
but it works. Those large threaded plugs are usually brass.
They pound the edge with a cold chisel and hammer, until they
can remove it. It won't be reusable, of course. Then they
replace it with a plastic plug, which will come out much easier
next time.

Don't get too attached to the old brass plug. Pound away.

Bruce Ferguson wrote:
I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all
the people out there some one may have the answer.

My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the
house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a
tapered piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out
piece is in the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck.
Question, do you think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat
the center piece or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they
make those pieces any more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most
everything is plastic. I guess you can figure out why I need to get to
the clean out. If some one knows a web site I would be happy to go
there.
Sorry again for the off topic post.

Bruce

Sorry for the off topic post
 

Thanks for all the sugestions. I think I will go with the least order of
severity. First the penetrating oil. I had used W-40 but the penatrating
oil is made for doing just this. If I can find the old plug I could
experement with the bang out the screw plug idea. At work we use human
performance tools to cut down on human error and one of them is "how bad can
it get". Well under the house if the bang out the plug dosn't work than it
is hard to go back. Arches sugestion would be the last but it would cure it
for all times. Thanks for all the help, great group even for non turning
subjects.

Thanks again, Bruce
"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all
the people out there some one may have the answer.

My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the
house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered
piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in
the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you
think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece
or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any
more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic.
I guess you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some
one knows a web site I would be happy to go there.
Sorry again for the off topic post.

Bruce

Sorry for the off topic post
 

Try a little steel wool on the plug and make sure it is brass.

These often have a special wrench , a pipewrench or adjustable is going
to make a small mess.

You can try icing the plug, same effect as heating the surrounding pipe
with no fire risk.

Sorry for the off topic post
 

I've become a fan of diy.net when it comes to problems like this. Find
the forums or internal dicussion groups and ask your question.

Bruce Ferguson wrote:
I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all
the people out there some one may have the answer.

My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the
house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a tapered
piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out piece is in the
middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck. Question, do you think
heat would help free them??? If so would you heat the center piece or the
piece it screws into??? I don't know if they make those pieces any more to
dig out the packing and replace them. Most everything is plastic. I guess
you can figure out why I need to get to the clean out. If some one knows a
web site I would be happy to go there.
Sorry again for the off topic post.

Bruce

Sorry for the off topic post
 

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Bruce, if you can't unscrew the plug, instead of messing about with old
lead, oakum and frozen threads it might be easier to just hacksaw
(actually I urged mine with a sledge) the clean out off and replace it
with a PVC fitting using adjustable vinyl compression couplings.

Real plumbers are laughing to keep from crying. :)


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter

Arch! You must have been a chirurgen. Typical answer: cut, cut, cut! *G*
Actually your suggestion was exactly what I did under my house in San
Bernardino, many years ago. I rented a ratching cutter (they're made for
just such "operations" and resected the old iron pipe and installed new
plastic cleanout and junctions for the new grey water connections using
expandable rubber connectors with large hose clamps to remate the with the
resectioned ends of the iron pipe. Worked like a charm, with not too much
labor under the house, although I could have used a pretty nurse to mop my
fevered brow! *G*

Leif

Sorry for the off topic post
 

Racheting cutter. Is that like a cutter for copper pipe? It just goes round
and round ant the pipe is cut off?? I was thinking hack saw or saber saw
with a metal cutting blade. I have seen saber saws at Harbor Freight and
thought if they lasted long enough it would work.
Leif I cant resist this.....How long did you soak that pipe in LLD to make
it soft enough to cut??

Bruce
"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Bruce, if you can't unscrew the plug, instead of messing about with old
lead, oakum and frozen threads it might be easier to just hacksaw
(actually I urged mine with a sledge) the clean out off and replace it
with a PVC fitting using adjustable vinyl compression couplings.

Real plumbers are laughing to keep from crying. :)


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter

Arch! You must have been a chirurgen. Typical answer: cut, cut, cut! *G*
Actually your suggestion was exactly what I did under my house in San
Bernardino, many years ago. I rented a ratching cutter (they're made for
just such "operations" and resected the old iron pipe and installed new
plastic cleanout and junctions for the new grey water connections using
expandable rubber connectors with large hose clamps to remate the with the
resectioned ends of the iron pipe. Worked like a charm, with not too much
labor under the house, although I could have used a pretty nurse to mop my
fevered brow! *G*

Leif

Sorry for the off topic post
 

Thanks I will try that. Ice that is another thought. I am picking up alot
of good suggestions.

Bruce
"william kossack" wrote in message
...
I've become a fan of diy.net when it comes to problems like this. Find
the forums or internal dicussion groups and ask your question.

Bruce Ferguson wrote:
I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all
the people out there some one may have the answer.

My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the
house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a
tapered piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out
piece is in the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck.
Question, do you think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat
the center piece or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they
make those pieces any more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most
everything is plastic. I guess you can figure out why I need to get to
the clean out. If some one knows a web site I would be happy to go
there.
Sorry again for the off topic post.

Bruce

Sorry for the off topic post
 

Bruce Ferguson said:

I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all
the people out there some one may have the answer.
snip

If you can't ask your friends, who can you?

I've seen a few of the suggestions here, and here is my observation.

Ductile iron pipes and poured lead/oakum packed joints.
Quiet, durable, and a real PITA to modify. DAMHIKT

If all you are trying to do is remove the cleanout plug, I wouldn't
cut into the piping just yet. Every joint, every seam is a potential
leak or problem. Sometimes, the piping supports the weight of the
pipe above it. A boot will not provide that support and I'm not all
that fond of boots, but that's just me.

Why don't you just drill out the offending plug. Several 1/2" or so
holes around the plug, avoiding the threads, if there are any.
If it's a cast plug, it's brittle, if it's brass, it'll chip out.

Just don't bang around so much on the whole affair that you loosen
other joints. Lead poured joints WILL seep gas if jarred too much.

JMHO,

Greg G.

Sorry for the off topic post
 

==== Ok, I'll 'fess up. This was in the days BLDD. If I knew then about
the efficacy of LDD on anything, I would certainly have used it as the
lubricant for the cutting chain. Check out:
http://www.reedmfgco.com/index.html?...l_pipe_cutters
As to the couplers, try looking at: http://www.fernco.com/coupling.asp LDD
can be very effective in lubricating the pipe for slipping on the rubber
coupler. Arch led me astray, I had forgotten that these were not quite as
flexible as he stated. All of that can be laid out before the installation.
Hope this helps,

Leif

I would imagine that a tool rental agency would have them to rent. That's
where I got mine.
"Bruce Ferguson" wrote in message
...
Racheting cutter. Is that like a cutter for copper pipe? It just goes
round and round ant the pipe is cut off?? I was thinking hack saw or
saber saw with a metal cutting blade. I have seen saber saws at Harbor
Freight and thought if they lasted long enough it would work.
Leif I cant resist this.....How long did you soak that pipe in LLD to make
it soft enough to cut??

Bruce
"Leif Thorvaldson" wrote in message
...

"Arch" wrote in message
...
Bruce, if you can't unscrew the plug, instead of messing about with old
lead, oakum and frozen threads it might be easier to just hacksaw
(actually I urged mine with a sledge) the clean out off and replace it
with a PVC fitting using adjustable vinyl compression couplings.

Real plumbers are laughing to keep from crying. :)


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter

Arch! You must have been a chirurgen. Typical answer: cut, cut, cut!
*G* Actually your suggestion was exactly what I did under my house in San
Bernardino, many years ago. I rented a ratching cutter (they're made for
just such "operations" and resected the old iron pipe and installed new
plastic cleanout and junctions for the new grey water connections using
expandable rubber connectors with large hose clamps to remate the with
the resectioned ends of the iron pipe. Worked like a charm, with not too
much labor under the house, although I could have used a pretty nurse to
mop my fevered brow! *G*

Leif

Sorry for the off topic post
 

Just a thought, if you apply heat and it gets the adjacent lead
joint(s) hot enough to melt...

Have been replacing old (1965) cast iron/oakum-lead jointed pipes in
our townhouse over last 10 years as they start to leak at the joints,
using new ABS and rubber couplings, also have rubber caps over the
major cleanouts which get cleaned out at least annually (tree roots).
No leakage or stoppage problems so far.

Sorry for the off topic post
 

Don't forget that free advice is often worth what you pay for it
especially on the rec

Bruce Ferguson wrote:
Thanks I will try that. Ice that is another thought. I am picking up alot
of good suggestions.

Bruce
"william kossack" wrote in message
...

I've become a fan of diy.net when it comes to problems like this. Find
the forums or internal dicussion groups and ask your question.

Bruce Ferguson wrote:

I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all
the people out there some one may have the answer.

My house was buildt in the 50's and has the iron sewer pipes under the
house. The cleanouts look like a two piece afair. The first is a
tapered piece that is held in with picking or lead and the screw out
piece is in the middle. Of course they are all frozen and stuck.
Question, do you think heat would help free them??? If so would you heat
the center piece or the piece it screws into??? I don't know if they
make those pieces any more to dig out the packing and replace them. Most
everything is plastic. I guess you can figure out why I need to get to
the clean out. If some one knows a web site I would be happy to go
there.
Sorry again for the off topic post.

Bruce

Sorry for the off topic post
 

Bruce Ferguson wrote:
I apoloigize ahead of time for this off topic post but I figured with all
the people out there some one may have the answer.

My experience with cast iron sewerpipes has been only to knock them out
for replacement by PVC, but I know the stuff is quite brittle--almost
like glass. Probably not very fun to use a hacksaw or any metal-cutting
type of blade on this stuff. We just took a sledgehammer to it.

I'd concentrate on unscrewing the plug, using lots of heat and a
penetrating spray. The heat will help the spray wick into the threads.
Whatever kind of wrench you can get on the plug, use a long piece of
pipe on the handle for leverage.

For future reference, the newsgroup alt.home.repair is where I go--among
the self-described "expurts", there are a few people who can answer this
intelligently.
Not that I object to you posting here, as long as you're a woodturner ;)
Good luck!

Ken Grunke
http://www.token.crwoodturner.com/

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Sorry for the off topic post
 

The fittings are called Fernco fittings and you will find them at HD.
They are in the plumbing section, usually above the regular pvc
fittings.
If you have a sawzall, Lenox makes a blade especially for cutting cast
iron,works well. I have found that not all cast iron pipe cuts the
same. Some pipe seems to cut easily, others take 10 minutes to cut
thru. Most of the time with a new blade I cut thru 4" pipe in 3 minutes
or less.
mike