At what point is waxing or other methods used to slow drying not
needed? For example, if I rough turn a bowl that is 15% MC does it
need to be sealed? Since it is nearing it's lower end, is there still
a chance that it will crack before it hits 10%?

Thanks,
Brian
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"Brian Blazer" wrote in message
news:2005082908504116807%brian@brianandkatecom...
At what point is waxing or other methods used to slow drying not needed?
For example, if I rough turn a bowl that is 15% MC does it need to be
sealed? Since it is nearing it's lower end, is there still a chance that
it will crack before it hits 10%?


When you can slow loss from the surface enough to maintain a mild gradient
from the interior.

Sometimes positional control of relative humidity is all that's required.
Arch lives in Florida and stores his stuff where it's damp. Great for
preserving a high MC. You would think it would be tough to get those
conditions in the great white north, except that we often have basements
here. In the summer, it's a great way to go. Come winter, with heat and
the cold outside, it's possible to hit 4% MC. Not a great way to go. Best
to take some additional humidity control measures.

Second best thing you can do, after reading about how wood dries, is to
invest in a hygrometer. That way you can find or create the optimum places,
use them instead of other methods, and demystify the drying process.

Last, wood is never proof against cracking. It gains/loses through seasons
and conditions, and a weakness never observed can open in a day. Can't
prevent it, but you sure can cause it by poor humidity control.

On 2005-08-29 10:15:27 -0500, "George" George@least said:


"Brian Blazer" wrote in message
news:2005082908504116807%brian@brianandkatecom...
At what point is waxing or other methods used to slow drying not
needed? For example, if I rough turn a bowl that is 15% MC does it need
to be sealed? Since it is nearing it's lower end, is there still a
chance that it will crack before it hits 10%?


When you can slow loss from the surface enough to maintain a mild
gradient from the interior.

Sometimes positional control of relative humidity is all that's
required. Arch lives in Florida and stores his stuff where it's damp.
Great for preserving a high MC. You would think it would be tough to
get those conditions in the great white north, except that we often
have basements here. In the summer, it's a great way to go. Come
winter, with heat and the cold outside, it's possible to hit 4% MC.
Not a great way to go. Best to take some additional humidity control
measures.

Second best thing you can do, after reading about how wood dries, is to
invest in a hygrometer. That way you can find or create the optimum
places, use them instead of other methods, and demystify the drying
process.

Last, wood is never proof against cracking. It gains/loses through
seasons and conditions, and a weakness never observed can open in a
day. Can't prevent it, but you sure can cause it by poor humidity
control.

I may be mistaken, but I was under the assumption that wood was under
the greatest stress when drying from a MC of ~ 30% to 15%. It is
because of this assumption that I thought that wood 15% may not need
additional measures to keep the drying process slow.

Thanks for your response,
Brian

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most of the chance of splitting does come at the start of the process,
and it your wood is already down to 15% i would think that it is less
likely to split but not certain. since all woods start with a different
moisture content it would depend on which wood you are using as to how
stable it is at 15% - also as previously mentioned it also depends on
the conditions of your location and drying conditions. a log at 15%
left out in the baking sun will still split. i would continue to wax -
why not ? but experiment yourself and see what happens - it is the only
way you will now if it is worth the risk.

"Brian Blazer" wrote in message
news:2005082921025616807%brian@brianandkatecom...
I may be mistaken, but I was under the assumption that wood was under the
greatest stress when drying from a MC of ~ 30% to 15%. It is because of
this assumption that I thought that wood 15% may not need additional
measures to keep the drying process slow.

Shrinkage is linear. Loss of 1% MC results in the same shrinkage high or
low end.

The gradient can, of course be much steeper is there's more moisture
available, which is why you should maintain better control at higher MC.

oops, I forgot fruit woods! apple, pear etc also make good food safe woods
for treen

radio_ranch
"it's a scientific lifestyle"

"Brian Blazer" wrote in message
news:2005082908504116807%brian@brianandkatecom...
At what point is waxing or other methods used to slow drying not needed?
For example, if I rough turn a bowl that is 15% MC does it need to be
sealed? Since it is nearing it's lower end, is there still a chance that
it will crack before it hits 10%?

Thanks,
Brian
--
Nail a post to the Spalted Board. Free WW'ing software and forums.
Regular freebies! http://www.spaltedboard.com