On 2005-08-29 10:15:27 -0500, "George" George@least said:


"Brian Blazer" wrote in message
news:2005082908504116807%brian@brianandkatecom...
At what point is waxing or other methods used to slow drying not
needed? For example, if I rough turn a bowl that is 15% MC does it need
to be sealed? Since it is nearing it's lower end, is there still a
chance that it will crack before it hits 10%?


When you can slow loss from the surface enough to maintain a mild
gradient from the interior.

Sometimes positional control of relative humidity is all that's
required. Arch lives in Florida and stores his stuff where it's damp.
Great for preserving a high MC. You would think it would be tough to
get those conditions in the great white north, except that we often
have basements here. In the summer, it's a great way to go. Come
winter, with heat and the cold outside, it's possible to hit 4% MC.
Not a great way to go. Best to take some additional humidity control
measures.

Second best thing you can do, after reading about how wood dries, is to
invest in a hygrometer. That way you can find or create the optimum
places, use them instead of other methods, and demystify the drying
process.

Last, wood is never proof against cracking. It gains/loses through
seasons and conditions, and a weakness never observed can open in a
day. Can't prevent it, but you sure can cause it by poor humidity
control.

I may be mistaken, but I was under the assumption that wood was under
the greatest stress when drying from a MC of ~ 30% to 15%. It is
because of this assumption that I thought that wood 15% may not need
additional measures to keep the drying process slow.

Thanks for your response,
Brian

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