Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodturning (rec.crafts.woodturning) To discuss tools, techniques, styles, materials, shows and competitions, education and educational materials related to woodturning. All skill levels are welcome, from art turners to production turners, beginners to masters. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Experience turning lilac wood ?
Hi All I picked up some lilac wood and trial turned a small Y piece of it, shaped the outside and glued on a disk to reverse the piece, it cracked up bad while waiting for a short time to have the CA glue harden up, have any of you turned and got better results with lilac, or is this a case for boiling etc. ? Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
I would like to know a little more about this boiling procedure.
Last fall I cut down a lilac tree in the afternoon. The next morning it was already showing cracks. The wood is nice and with the purple streaks its even more beautiful. I still have the lilac wood. At time, I was thinking about burning it in the wood store. Maybe, someday I'll find something to do with it? "John Yale" wrote in message . 1.69... Leo Van Der Loo wrote in news:MdGdnXY4TrJX2wDfRVn- : I picked up some lilac wood and trial turned a small Y piece of it, shaped the outside and glued on a disk to reverse the piece, it cracked up bad while waiting for a short time to have the CA glue harden up, have any of you turned and got better results with lilac, or is this a case for boiling etc. ? Lilac is one of the worst I have come across for cracking, but I have had some success with boiling it, so I would definately give that a go. John |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 01:25:28 -0400, Leo Van Der Loo
wrote: Hi All I picked up some lilac wood and trial turned a small Y piece of it, shaped the outside and glued on a disk to reverse the piece, it cracked up bad while waiting for a short time to have the CA glue harden up, have any of you turned and got better results with lilac, or is this a case for boiling etc. ? Lilac is definitely a boiler. The best I've been able to get out of it w/o boiling is some miniatures, stick pens and pen blanks. Everything else cracks like crazy. I'd definitely go the boiling route, if you have anything large enough to turn something out of. BTW, _immediately_ splitting it through the pith after it is cut seems to help a little bit, too. -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
wrote:
Hi All I picked up some lilac wood and trial turned a small Y piece of it, shaped the outside and glued on a disk to reverse the piece, it cracked up bad while waiting for a short time to have the CA glue harden up, have any of you turned and got better results with lilac, or is this a case for boiling etc. ? Lilac is definitely a boiler. The best I've been able to get out of it w/o boiling is some miniatures, stick pens and pen blanks. Everything else cracks like crazy. I'd definitely go the boiling route, if you have anything large enough to turn something out of. BTW, _immediately_ splitting it through the pith after it is cut seems to help a little bit, too. -- Chuck *#:^) Boiling? I've been lurking here for a couple of years, but have apparently missed any detailed description of the boiling process. Any pointers would be appreciated. I'm almost up to beginner stage, and have a little lilac pieces that I've been saving for maybe three months, outside in the weather. 3 to 5 inches in diameter, 2 to 4 feet long. Some end checking, of course, but now I must get serious and do something. (or wait until need for firewood returns) Thanks in advance Old Chief Lynn |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you Guys for the answers, was hoping for some magic, LOL. I do not have experience with boiling, but have read that for certain woods this is apparently the best way to prevent the cracking of the wood. Basically the wood is boiled for a minimum of one hour per inch of thickness. I do have a link to the protocol, it (the link) works for me, don't know if it will for you, it probably will wrap around, it's rather long. http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...6868952124f43b Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message news Thank you Guys for the answers, was hoping for some magic, LOL. I do not have experience with boiling, but have read that for certain woods this is apparently the best way to prevent the cracking of the wood. Basically the wood is boiled for a minimum of one hour per inch of thickness. I do have a link to the protocol, it (the link) works for me, don't know if it will for you, it probably will wrap around, it's rather long. http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...6868952124f43b Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo Great, Thanks, the link worked OK. I'm going to give the procedure a try on (in) my crab cooker if the propane holds out! Old Chief Lynn |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
On Wed, 1 Jun 2005 14:25:05 -0700, "Lynn Coffelt"
wrote: Boiling? I've been lurking here for a couple of years, but have apparently missed any detailed description of the boiling process. Any pointers would be appreciated. I'm almost up to beginner stage, and have a little lilac pieces that I've been saving for maybe three months, outside in the weather. 3 to 5 inches in diameter, 2 to 4 feet long. Some end checking, of course, but now I must get serious and do something. (or wait until need for firewood returns) Basically the formula is, one hour boiling per inch of thickness (I believe), allow to cool in its own water, remove and dry. You and Leo might want to go the Pentacryl route, if it means a lot to you to be able to turn it. I've never used it, but it's supposed to go a long way toward stabilizing unstable woods. -- Chuck *#:^) chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply. September 11, 2001 - Never Forget ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Hi Chuck, No thanks, I still have a half full container of it and also the turnings I used it on, they still stink and feels greasy wet after 5 or 6 years sitting on a shelf in my shop, you can have it if you like (come and get it) I will never use it again. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo Chuck wrote: SNIP/ You and Leo might want to go the Pentacryl route, if it means a lot to you to be able to turn it. I've never used it, but it's supposed to go a long way toward stabilizing unstable woods. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message ... Hi Chuck, No thanks, I still have a half full container of it and also the turnings I used it on, they still stink and feels greasy wet after 5 or 6 years sitting on a shelf in my shop, you can have it if you like (come and get it) I will never use it again. Chuck wrote: SNIP/ You and Leo might want to go the Pentacryl route, if it means a lot to you to be able to turn it. I've never used it, but it's supposed to go a long way toward stabilizing unstable woods. Think you're talking Polyethylene Glycol (PEG), Leo. I get more scum on the top of mine than on a working sauerkraut crock after soaking green wood, but I lift it, check the SG and keep on soaking mallets in it anyway. Pentacryl is sort of like painting the surface with thinned carpenter's glue, it seems. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Hi George No George the product is Pentacryl, I submerged the turnings for a long time, don't recall the exact length, but was several weeks at least, I was disappointed with the feel and smell, the turnings are still without cracks, at least last time I picked one up to have another look and smell. As for PEG I have never used it, I assume that it is working a lot like Pentacryl but I have no personal experience with it. Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo George wrote: Think you're talking Polyethylene Glycol (PEG), Leo. I get more scum on the top of mine than on a working sauerkraut crock after soaking green wood, but I lift it, check the SG and keep on soaking mallets in it anyway. Pentacryl is sort of like painting the surface with thinned carpenter's glue, it seems. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
"Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message ... Hi George No George the product is Pentacryl, I submerged the turnings for a long time, don't recall the exact length, but was several weeks at least, I was disappointed with the feel and smell, the turnings are still without cracks, at least last time I picked one up to have another look and smell. As for PEG I have never used it, I assume that it is working a lot like Pentacryl but I have no personal experience with it. At sixteen bucks a quart, I imagine I'd "immerse" by putting a minimum amount in a plastic bag with my object and pulling almost all the air out. They recommend a week for 6x6x2, so it sounds like you might have overdone. PEG's a lot cheaper. Doesn't take a finish worth squat, though, unless your name's Moulthrop. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
"George" george@least wrote in message ... "Leo Van Der Loo" wrote in message ... Hi George No George the product is Pentacryl, I submerged the turnings for a long time, don't recall the exact length, but was several weeks at least, I was disappointed with the feel and smell, the turnings are still without cracks, at least last time I picked one up to have another look and smell. As for PEG I have never used it, I assume that it is working a lot like Pentacryl but I have no personal experience with it. At sixteen bucks a quart, I imagine I'd "immerse" by putting a minimum amount in a plastic bag with my object and pulling almost all the air out. They recommend a week for 6x6x2, so it sounds like you might have overdone. PEG's a lot cheaper. Doesn't take a finish worth squat, though, unless your name's Moulthrop. ======================= Does anyone know how Moultrop finished his big turnings after PEG treatment? Or how he was even able to treat the big stuff he turned? Also, is Phillip doing the big turnings like his father did? Ken Moon Webberville, TX. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
"Ken Moon" wrote in message .net... PEG's a lot cheaper. Doesn't take a finish worth squat, though, unless your name's Moulthrop. ======================= Does anyone know how Moultrop finished his big turnings after PEG treatment? Or how he was even able to treat the big stuff he turned? Also, is Phillip doing the big turnings like his father did? Son was pursuing his own vision last I read, though the magic of the father will probably pull him back into the big stuff for the bucks, I'd say. Rumors of the phenolic resin type are the most credible, like the old Watco. Seems I read somewhere that this was part of some magic formula containing dishwasher detergent.... I used to wipe the surfaces with acetone and apply Watco. Only in dry weather, though. The way PEG sucks water, anything over about 60% RH is slimy. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
### micro-FAQ on wood # 026 | Woodworking | |||
### micro-FAQ on wood # 015 | Woodworking | |||
### micro-FAQ on wood # 014 | Woodworking | |||
### Micro-FAQ on wood # 006 | Woodworking | |||
### Micro-FAQ on wood # 002 | Woodworking |