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  #1   Report Post  
MM
 
Posts: n/a
Default How to flatten a warped chest top?

I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it
in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and
drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately,
this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is
because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't
know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting
everything back in the box to return to Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is
solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved
a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump'
side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't
steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then
replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely?

MM
  #2   Report Post  
Harvey Van Sickle
 
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On 24 Mar 2005, MM wrote

-snip-

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is
solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved
a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump'
side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't
steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then
replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely?


Years ago I flattened a warped piece of mahogany by steaming; it
worked pretty well, and would probably have been perfectly flat if I'd
used weights. (It was a seriously-bowed internal shelf in a small
cupboard, and precision wasn't really required.)

You steam the underside of the bow: when I read up on it, the
reasoning behind it was that the underside has dried out more than the
top-side of the bow (and/or the top side had absorbed more moisture).
This makes the underside contract, and rehydrating it restores the
balance.

(That seemed to make sense to me; whatever the physics, though, the
steaming worked.)


--
Cheers,
Harvey
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Mike Halmarack
 
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:21:46 +0000, MM wrote:

I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it
in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and
drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately,
this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is
because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't
know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting
everything back in the box to return to Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is
solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved
a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump'
side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't
steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then
replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely?

MM


Attempts at steaming or laying on of wet cloths can be a lot of work
to little effect. Would fitting the top help to flatten it? This is a
more likely proposition if there is a pair of drawers at the top, with
the related carcasing structure.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the EGG to email me.
  #4   Report Post  
MM
 
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:40:29 +0000, Mike Halmarack
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:21:46 +0000, MM wrote:

I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it
in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and
drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately,
this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is
because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't
know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting
everything back in the box to return to Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is
solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved
a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump'
side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't
steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then
replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely?

MM


Attempts at steaming or laying on of wet cloths can be a lot of work
to little effect. Would fitting the top help to flatten it?


No. I tried that. But the gap along the unfixed side between the plank
and the carcass is then about 1/4 inch. I could insert the screws
anyway and pull it down, I suppose, but the bow would still be quite
noticeable.

I quite fancy Harvey's hint about steaming, actually. Harvey: How did
you apply the steam and for how long? I do have a wallpaper stripper
which produces loads of steam.

MM
  #5   Report Post  
Mike Halmarack
 
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:57:21 +0000, MM wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:40:29 +0000, Mike Halmarack
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:21:46 +0000, MM wrote:

I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it
in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and
drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately,
this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is
because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't
know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting
everything back in the box to return to Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is
solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved
a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump'
side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't
steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then
replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely?

MM


Attempts at steaming or laying on of wet cloths can be a lot of work
to little effect. Would fitting the top help to flatten it?


No. I tried that. But the gap along the unfixed side between the plank
and the carcass is then about 1/4 inch. I could insert the screws
anyway and pull it down, I suppose, but the bow would still be quite
noticeable.

I quite fancy Harvey's hint about steaming, actually. Harvey: How did
you apply the steam and for how long? I do have a wallpaper stripper
which produces loads of steam.

MM


I understand your POV. I've done some damage in the past striving for
perfection.
Using the steaming method the first thing to go will be the antique
finish.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the EGG to email me.


  #6   Report Post  
Mike Halmarack
 
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 10:27:16 +0000, Mike Halmarack
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:57:21 +0000, MM wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:40:29 +0000, Mike Halmarack
wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:21:46 +0000, MM wrote:

I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it
in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and
drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately,
this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is
because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't
know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting
everything back in the box to return to Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is
solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved
a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump'
side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't
steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then
replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely?

MM

Attempts at steaming or laying on of wet cloths can be a lot of work
to little effect. Would fitting the top help to flatten it?


No. I tried that. But the gap along the unfixed side between the plank
and the carcass is then about 1/4 inch. I could insert the screws
anyway and pull it down, I suppose, but the bow would still be quite
noticeable.

I quite fancy Harvey's hint about steaming, actually. Harvey: How did
you apply the steam and for how long? I do have a wallpaper stripper
which produces loads of steam.

MM


I understand your POV. I've done some damage in the past striving for
perfection.
Using the steaming method the first thing to go will be the antique
finish.


Perhaps instead of adding moisture content to the concave side, you
could reduce the moisture content on the convex side with a hair
dryer.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the EGG to email me.
  #7   Report Post  
Magician
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I'd clamp a couple of straight edge lengths of substancial timber too
it to force it back into shape, then leave it in the room for a week.

Or just take that panel back, you don't have to return the whole thing.

Dave

  #8   Report Post  
RichardS
 
Posts: n/a
Default

"MM" wrote in message
...
I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it
in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and
drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately,
this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is
because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't
know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting
everything back in the box to return to Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is
solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved
a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump'
side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't
steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then
replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely?

MM


To be honest, if the thing's been kept flat and dry and still it bowed then
I think you're onto a non-starter in the long run. If you manage to
flatten it using moisture then when it dries out again and reaches
equilibrium then there's a good chance it will bow again.

however, if you want to try flattening it then I'd leave it flat with a
couple of damp (not wet!) towels on the convex side for a couple of days.
You could try and force the issue a little using weights, but they won't be
doing the flattening - it'd be the absorbtion of moisture that would do
that.

I'd only attempt it if the concave side was actually the finish side - ie
the top when installed.

I've done this successfully with a wooden chopping board that was put
through the dishwasher by one of my wife's nieces or nephews. Worked and
stayed flat. BUT, there was no waterproof finish on this, and of course the
warping was caused by external moisture in the first place.

--
Richard Sampson

mail me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk


  #9   Report Post  
s--p--o--n--i--x
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:21:46 +0000, MM wrote:

I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it
in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and
drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately,
this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is
because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't
know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting
everything back in the box to return to Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is
solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved
a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump'
side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't
steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then
replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely?


I'd suggest placing it hump side up on a couple of battens. Then place
a suitable weight in the middle and leave it for a few days/weeks.

s
  #10   Report Post  
Dave Plowman (News)
 
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In article ,
RichardS wrote:
To be honest, if the thing's been kept flat and dry and still it bowed
then I think you're onto a non-starter in the long run. If you manage
to flatten it using moisture then when it dries out again and reaches
equilibrium then there's a good chance it will bow again.


Yes - these sort of boards tend to be made of battens of solid timber glued
together then veneered. Unlikely to be just a solid chunk of wood. And
they're done like that to make warping unlikely. So if it has, it's faulty,
and I doubt you'll get it straight again for any length of time.

--
*A 'jiffy' is an actual unit of time for 1/100th of a second.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


  #11   Report Post  
The Natural Philosopher
 
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MM wrote:

I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it
in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and
drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately,
this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is
because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't
know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting
everything back in the box to return to Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is
solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved
a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump'
side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't
steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then
replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely?


Basically more fool you for buying solid wood from a cheap
manufacturere. Pine as well. Tsk Tsk.


Not a lot you CAN do other then screw it down to some steel braces.

Welcome to the world of Real Wood, warps and all (especially pine)


MM

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Andy Dingley
 
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It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

they're done like that to make warping unlikely.


This is Ikea - they're done like that to make them out of narrow
strips, rather than expensive wide timber.

A "chest top" would have been made from glued-up strips any time since
the 18th century, largely for stability. Pre-war though, you're
talking talking about two 9" wide planks, nowadays it's nine 2"
planks.

I'd bludgeon it flat by adding extra fastenings. I wouldn't steam it,
because any finish that permits steam through it isn't going to be
improved by the experience.

If you want good furniture, don't buy it from Ikea. Their timber is of
appaling quality, as you've just discovered.
--
Smert' spamionam
  #13   Report Post  
Dave Plowman (News)
 
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In article ,
Andy Dingley wrote:
they're done like that to make warping unlikely.


This is Ikea - they're done like that to make them out of narrow
strips, rather than expensive wide timber.


Of course. However, it does help make it stable, if done correctly.

A "chest top" would have been made from glued-up strips any time since
the 18th century, largely for stability. Pre-war though, you're
talking talking about two 9" wide planks, nowadays it's nine 2"
planks.


I'd bludgeon it flat by adding extra fastenings. I wouldn't steam it,
because any finish that permits steam through it isn't going to be
improved by the experience.


If you want good furniture, don't buy it from Ikea. Their timber is of
appaling quality, as you've just discovered.


Still, you get what you pay for. I bought a 'pine strip' constructed
computer station from them for the workshop. It's excellent for what it
is, and I couldn't have made one for anywhere near the price buying timber
from my local yard.

--
*Just give me chocolate and nobody gets hurt

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
  #14   Report Post  
Harvey Van Sickle
 
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On 24 Mar 2005, RichardS wrote

"MM" wrote in message
...
I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left
it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass
and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place.
Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the
length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its
side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going
to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to
Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which
is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already
achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the
board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights
on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could
apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear
completely?

MM


To be honest, if the thing's been kept flat and dry and still it
bowed then I think you're onto a non-starter in the long run. If
you manage to flatten it using moisture then when it dries out
again and reaches equilibrium then there's a good chance it will
bow again.

however, if you want to try flattening it then I'd leave it flat
with a couple of damp (not wet!) towels on the convex side for a
couple of days. You could try and force the issue a little using
weights, but they won't be doing the flattening - it'd be the
absorbtion of moisture that would do that.


I'm curious about this: what's the theory behind introducing moisture
to the convex side? I thought in warped wood, that was the side that
already had too much moisture. ("Too much", that is, relative to the
concave side.)

In the only experience I've had of un-warping a piece of wood -- years
ago, only the once, and for an internal shelf -- I steamed the concave
side. (It worked, and 25 years it's still flat.)

--
Cheers,
Harvey
  #15   Report Post  
RichardS
 
Posts: n/a
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"Harvey Van Sickle" wrote in message
...
On 24 Mar 2005, RichardS wrote

"MM" wrote in message
...
I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left
it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass
and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place.
Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the
length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its
side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going
to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to
Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which
is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already
achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the
board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights
on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could
apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear
completely?

MM


To be honest, if the thing's been kept flat and dry and still it
bowed then I think you're onto a non-starter in the long run. If
you manage to flatten it using moisture then when it dries out
again and reaches equilibrium then there's a good chance it will
bow again.

however, if you want to try flattening it then I'd leave it flat
with a couple of damp (not wet!) towels on the convex side for a
couple of days. You could try and force the issue a little using
weights, but they won't be doing the flattening - it'd be the
absorbtion of moisture that would do that.


I'm curious about this: what's the theory behind introducing moisture
to the convex side? I thought in warped wood, that was the side that
already had too much moisture. ("Too much", that is, relative to the
concave side.)

In the only experience I've had of un-warping a piece of wood -- years
ago, only the once, and for an internal shelf -- I steamed the concave
side. (It worked, and 25 years it's still flat.)



Doh! you are right, of course...

note to self,.... write it, read it, re-read it, _then_ post!

--
Richard Sampson

mail me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk




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Harvey Van Sickle
 
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On 24 Mar 2005, RichardS wrote
"Harvey Van Sickle" wrote in message
...
On 24 Mar 2005, RichardS wrote


however, if you want to try flattening it then I'd leave it flat
with a couple of damp (not wet!) towels on the convex side for a
couple of days. You could try and force the issue a little using
weights, but they won't be doing the flattening - it'd be the
absorbtion of moisture that would do that.


I'm curious about this: what's the theory behind introducing
moisture to the convex side? I thought in warped wood, that was
the side that already had too much moisture. ("Too much", that
is, relative to the concave side.)

In the only experience I've had of un-warping a piece of wood --
years ago, only the once, and for an internal shelf -- I steamed
the concave side. (It worked, and 25 years it's still flat.)


Doh! you are right, of course...

note to self,.... write it, read it, re-read it, _then_ post!


Ah, that's a relief: you had me confused there!

--
Cheers,
Harvey
  #17   Report Post  
MM
 
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Default

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:37:58 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

they're done like that to make warping unlikely.


This is Ikea - they're done like that to make them out of narrow
strips, rather than expensive wide timber.

A "chest top" would have been made from glued-up strips any time since
the 18th century, largely for stability. Pre-war though, you're
talking talking about two 9" wide planks, nowadays it's nine 2"
planks.

I'd bludgeon it flat by adding extra fastenings. I wouldn't steam it,
because any finish that permits steam through it isn't going to be
improved by the experience.

If you want good furniture, don't buy it from Ikea. Their timber is of
appaling quality, as you've just discovered.


But a fraction of what you must pay for fully assembled stuff. I saw a
*very* nice chest of drawers in a local shop, professionally made. The
price was pretty professional, too: £295. I paid £109. It only needs
to house a few socks, underpants, vests and T-shirts. Assembled it
doesn't look bad at all, though obviously not in the "£295" bracket.
If I were super-rich I'd possibly consider the £295 jobbie. But I'm
not.

You can't beat Ikea for value, as evidenced by the huge amount of
custom they get. Also, you only have to walk around the showroom for a
few minutes to see that you simply won't find stuff with the same
design flair at such an affordable price. Not anywhere. And I'm not
going to drive 175 miles there and back to exchange a plank, even
though I doubt they would anyway without the rest of the parts. What
would they do? Remove a plank from a brand-new box? I very much doubt
that. It'd be return the whole chest or nothing.

MM
  #19   Report Post  
MM
 
Posts: n/a
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:09:10 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

MM wrote:

I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it
in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs.

When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and
drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately,
this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is
because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't
know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting
everything back in the box to return to Ikea.

So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is
solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved
a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump'
side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't
steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then
replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely?


Basically more fool you...


Sorry, I had to stop reading at this point, as I was becoming ****ed
off by your exhibition of Schadenfreude.

MM
  #20   Report Post  
Grant Fitzgerald
 
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MM wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:37:58 +0000, Andy Dingley
And I'm not
going to drive 175 miles there and back to exchange a plank, even
though I doubt they would anyway without the rest of the parts. What
would they do? Remove a plank from a brand-new box? I very much doubt
that. It'd be return the whole chest or nothing.

MM


The last time I bought some flat-pack furniture from Ikea, one of the
panels was damaged. I went back to the store with the panel and they
opened a new box up and gave me another one. They've also done the same
for me when I was missing a part.


  #21   Report Post  
Alex \(YMG\)
 
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"Grant Fitzgerald" wrote in message
...
MM wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:37:58 +0000, Andy Dingley
And I'm not
going to drive 175 miles there and back to exchange a plank, even
though I doubt they would anyway without the rest of the parts. What
would they do? Remove a plank from a brand-new box? I very much doubt
that. It'd be return the whole chest or nothing.

MM


The last time I bought some flat-pack furniture from Ikea, one of the
panels was damaged. I went back to the store with the panel and they
opened a new box up and gave me another one. They've also done the same
for me when I was missing a part.


I've never had any trouble with anything purchased from Ikea, aside from one
time when I opened a box to discover half the panels smashed with dirty foot
prints on them.

I wrote them a polite email explaining the problem - without fuss they (in a
huge HGV!) delivered a new bedside table straight to my door and collected
the replacement - considering I am a good 100 mile round trip from this
particular store I thought that was excellent service. When I wrote to them
to thank them they actually took the time to write an individual reply, and
passed my thanks on to those who were directly involved with my 'case'.

A+ for Ikea!

Alex


  #23   Report Post  
MM
 
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 14:32:12 +0000, Grant Fitzgerald
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:37:58 +0000, Andy Dingley
And I'm not
going to drive 175 miles there and back to exchange a plank, even
though I doubt they would anyway without the rest of the parts. What
would they do? Remove a plank from a brand-new box? I very much doubt
that. It'd be return the whole chest or nothing.

MM


The last time I bought some flat-pack furniture from Ikea, one of the
panels was damaged. I went back to the store with the panel and they
opened a new box up and gave me another one. They've also done the same
for me when I was missing a part.


Yes, but it's a 175 mile round trip!

MM
  #24   Report Post  
Jeff
 
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MM wrote :-

Sorry, I had to stop reading at this point, as I was becoming ****ed
off by your exhibition of Schadenfreude.


Way over my head....... had to look that one up
schadenfreude \SHAHD-n-froy-duh\, noun:
A malicious satisfaction in the misfortunes of others.

Regards Jeff


  #25   Report Post  
The Natural Philosopher
 
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MM wrote:

On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:37:58 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:


It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:


they're done like that to make warping unlikely.


This is Ikea - they're done like that to make them out of narrow
strips, rather than expensive wide timber.

A "chest top" would have been made from glued-up strips any time since
the 18th century, largely for stability. Pre-war though, you're
talking talking about two 9" wide planks, nowadays it's nine 2"
planks.

I'd bludgeon it flat by adding extra fastenings. I wouldn't steam it,
because any finish that permits steam through it isn't going to be
improved by the experience.

If you want good furniture, don't buy it from Ikea. Their timber is of
appaling quality, as you've just discovered.



But a fraction of what you must pay for fully assembled stuff. I saw a
*very* nice chest of drawers in a local shop, professionally made. The
price was pretty professional, too: £295. I paid £109. It only needs
to house a few socks, underpants, vests and T-shirts. Assembled it
doesn't look bad at all, though obviously not in the "£295" bracket.
If I were super-rich I'd possibly consider the £295 jobbie. But I'm
not.


Bloody eck. You can pick up a half decent chest for a fiver in most
auctions...

You can't beat Ikea for value,


ROFLMAO!!!
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