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How to flatten a warped chest top?
I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it
in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? MM |
On 24 Mar 2005, MM wrote
-snip- So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? Years ago I flattened a warped piece of mahogany by steaming; it worked pretty well, and would probably have been perfectly flat if I'd used weights. (It was a seriously-bowed internal shelf in a small cupboard, and precision wasn't really required.) You steam the underside of the bow: when I read up on it, the reasoning behind it was that the underside has dried out more than the top-side of the bow (and/or the top side had absorbed more moisture). This makes the underside contract, and rehydrating it restores the balance. (That seemed to make sense to me; whatever the physics, though, the steaming worked.) -- Cheers, Harvey |
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:21:46 +0000, MM wrote:
I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? MM Attempts at steaming or laying on of wet cloths can be a lot of work to little effect. Would fitting the top help to flatten it? This is a more likely proposition if there is a pair of drawers at the top, with the related carcasing structure. -- Regards, Mike Halmarack Drop the EGG to email me. |
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:40:29 +0000, Mike Halmarack
wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:21:46 +0000, MM wrote: I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? MM Attempts at steaming or laying on of wet cloths can be a lot of work to little effect. Would fitting the top help to flatten it? No. I tried that. But the gap along the unfixed side between the plank and the carcass is then about 1/4 inch. I could insert the screws anyway and pull it down, I suppose, but the bow would still be quite noticeable. I quite fancy Harvey's hint about steaming, actually. Harvey: How did you apply the steam and for how long? I do have a wallpaper stripper which produces loads of steam. MM |
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:57:21 +0000, MM wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:40:29 +0000, Mike Halmarack wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:21:46 +0000, MM wrote: I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? MM Attempts at steaming or laying on of wet cloths can be a lot of work to little effect. Would fitting the top help to flatten it? No. I tried that. But the gap along the unfixed side between the plank and the carcass is then about 1/4 inch. I could insert the screws anyway and pull it down, I suppose, but the bow would still be quite noticeable. I quite fancy Harvey's hint about steaming, actually. Harvey: How did you apply the steam and for how long? I do have a wallpaper stripper which produces loads of steam. MM I understand your POV. I've done some damage in the past striving for perfection. :) Using the steaming method the first thing to go will be the antique finish. -- Regards, Mike Halmarack Drop the EGG to email me. |
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 10:27:16 +0000, Mike Halmarack
wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:57:21 +0000, MM wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:40:29 +0000, Mike Halmarack wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:21:46 +0000, MM wrote: I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? MM Attempts at steaming or laying on of wet cloths can be a lot of work to little effect. Would fitting the top help to flatten it? No. I tried that. But the gap along the unfixed side between the plank and the carcass is then about 1/4 inch. I could insert the screws anyway and pull it down, I suppose, but the bow would still be quite noticeable. I quite fancy Harvey's hint about steaming, actually. Harvey: How did you apply the steam and for how long? I do have a wallpaper stripper which produces loads of steam. MM I understand your POV. I've done some damage in the past striving for perfection. :) Using the steaming method the first thing to go will be the antique finish. Perhaps instead of adding moisture content to the concave side, you could reduce the moisture content on the convex side with a hair dryer. -- Regards, Mike Halmarack Drop the EGG to email me. |
I'd clamp a couple of straight edge lengths of substancial timber too
it to force it back into shape, then leave it in the room for a week. Or just take that panel back, you don't have to return the whole thing. Dave |
"MM" wrote in message
... I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? MM To be honest, if the thing's been kept flat and dry and still it bowed then I think you're onto a non-starter in the long run. If you manage to flatten it using moisture then when it dries out again and reaches equilibrium then there's a good chance it will bow again. however, if you want to try flattening it then I'd leave it flat with a couple of damp (not wet!) towels on the convex side for a couple of days. You could try and force the issue a little using weights, but they won't be doing the flattening - it'd be the absorbtion of moisture that would do that. I'd only attempt it if the concave side was actually the finish side - ie the top when installed. I've done this successfully with a wooden chopping board that was put through the dishwasher by one of my wife's nieces or nephews. Worked and stayed flat. BUT, there was no waterproof finish on this, and of course the warping was caused by external moisture in the first place. -- Richard Sampson mail me at richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk |
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:21:46 +0000, MM wrote:
I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? I'd suggest placing it hump side up on a couple of battens. Then place a suitable weight in the middle and leave it for a few days/weeks. s |
In article ,
RichardS wrote: To be honest, if the thing's been kept flat and dry and still it bowed then I think you're onto a non-starter in the long run. If you manage to flatten it using moisture then when it dries out again and reaches equilibrium then there's a good chance it will bow again. Yes - these sort of boards tend to be made of battens of solid timber glued together then veneered. Unlikely to be just a solid chunk of wood. And they're done like that to make warping unlikely. So if it has, it's faulty, and I doubt you'll get it straight again for any length of time. -- *A 'jiffy' is an actual unit of time for 1/100th of a second. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
MM wrote:
I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? Basically more fool you for buying solid wood from a cheap manufacturere. Pine as well. Tsk Tsk. Not a lot you CAN do other then screw it down to some steel braces. Welcome to the world of Real Wood, warps and all (especially pine) MM |
It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: they're done like that to make warping unlikely. This is Ikea - they're done like that to make them out of narrow strips, rather than expensive wide timber. A "chest top" would have been made from glued-up strips any time since the 18th century, largely for stability. Pre-war though, you're talking talking about two 9" wide planks, nowadays it's nine 2" planks. I'd bludgeon it flat by adding extra fastenings. I wouldn't steam it, because any finish that permits steam through it isn't going to be improved by the experience. If you want good furniture, don't buy it from Ikea. Their timber is of appaling quality, as you've just discovered. -- Smert' spamionam |
In article ,
Andy Dingley wrote: they're done like that to make warping unlikely. This is Ikea - they're done like that to make them out of narrow strips, rather than expensive wide timber. Of course. However, it does help make it stable, if done correctly. A "chest top" would have been made from glued-up strips any time since the 18th century, largely for stability. Pre-war though, you're talking talking about two 9" wide planks, nowadays it's nine 2" planks. I'd bludgeon it flat by adding extra fastenings. I wouldn't steam it, because any finish that permits steam through it isn't going to be improved by the experience. If you want good furniture, don't buy it from Ikea. Their timber is of appaling quality, as you've just discovered. Still, you get what you pay for. I bought a 'pine strip' constructed computer station from them for the workshop. It's excellent for what it is, and I couldn't have made one for anywhere near the price buying timber from my local yard. -- *Just give me chocolate and nobody gets hurt Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
On 24 Mar 2005, RichardS wrote
"MM" wrote in message ... I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? MM To be honest, if the thing's been kept flat and dry and still it bowed then I think you're onto a non-starter in the long run. If you manage to flatten it using moisture then when it dries out again and reaches equilibrium then there's a good chance it will bow again. however, if you want to try flattening it then I'd leave it flat with a couple of damp (not wet!) towels on the convex side for a couple of days. You could try and force the issue a little using weights, but they won't be doing the flattening - it'd be the absorbtion of moisture that would do that. I'm curious about this: what's the theory behind introducing moisture to the convex side? I thought in warped wood, that was the side that already had too much moisture. ("Too much", that is, relative to the concave side.) In the only experience I've had of un-warping a piece of wood -- years ago, only the once, and for an internal shelf -- I steamed the concave side. (It worked, and 25 years it's still flat.) -- Cheers, Harvey |
"Harvey Van Sickle" wrote in message ... On 24 Mar 2005, RichardS wrote "MM" wrote in message ... I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? MM To be honest, if the thing's been kept flat and dry and still it bowed then I think you're onto a non-starter in the long run. If you manage to flatten it using moisture then when it dries out again and reaches equilibrium then there's a good chance it will bow again. however, if you want to try flattening it then I'd leave it flat with a couple of damp (not wet!) towels on the convex side for a couple of days. You could try and force the issue a little using weights, but they won't be doing the flattening - it'd be the absorbtion of moisture that would do that. I'm curious about this: what's the theory behind introducing moisture to the convex side? I thought in warped wood, that was the side that already had too much moisture. ("Too much", that is, relative to the concave side.) In the only experience I've had of un-warping a piece of wood -- years ago, only the once, and for an internal shelf -- I steamed the concave side. (It worked, and 25 years it's still flat.) Doh! you are right, of course... note to self,.... write it, read it, re-read it, _then_ post! -- Richard Sampson mail me at richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk |
On 24 Mar 2005, RichardS wrote
"Harvey Van Sickle" wrote in message ... On 24 Mar 2005, RichardS wrote however, if you want to try flattening it then I'd leave it flat with a couple of damp (not wet!) towels on the convex side for a couple of days. You could try and force the issue a little using weights, but they won't be doing the flattening - it'd be the absorbtion of moisture that would do that. I'm curious about this: what's the theory behind introducing moisture to the convex side? I thought in warped wood, that was the side that already had too much moisture. ("Too much", that is, relative to the concave side.) In the only experience I've had of un-warping a piece of wood -- years ago, only the once, and for an internal shelf -- I steamed the concave side. (It worked, and 25 years it's still flat.) Doh! you are right, of course... note to self,.... write it, read it, re-read it, _then_ post! Ah, that's a relief: you had me confused there! -- Cheers, Harvey |
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:37:58 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote: It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: they're done like that to make warping unlikely. This is Ikea - they're done like that to make them out of narrow strips, rather than expensive wide timber. A "chest top" would have been made from glued-up strips any time since the 18th century, largely for stability. Pre-war though, you're talking talking about two 9" wide planks, nowadays it's nine 2" planks. I'd bludgeon it flat by adding extra fastenings. I wouldn't steam it, because any finish that permits steam through it isn't going to be improved by the experience. If you want good furniture, don't buy it from Ikea. Their timber is of appaling quality, as you've just discovered. But a fraction of what you must pay for fully assembled stuff. I saw a *very* nice chest of drawers in a local shop, professionally made. The price was pretty professional, too: £295. I paid £109. It only needs to house a few socks, underpants, vests and T-shirts. Assembled it doesn't look bad at all, though obviously not in the "£295" bracket. If I were super-rich I'd possibly consider the £295 jobbie. But I'm not. You can't beat Ikea for value, as evidenced by the huge amount of custom they get. Also, you only have to walk around the showroom for a few minutes to see that you simply won't find stuff with the same design flair at such an affordable price. Not anywhere. And I'm not going to drive 175 miles there and back to exchange a plank, even though I doubt they would anyway without the rest of the parts. What would they do? Remove a plank from a brand-new box? I very much doubt that. It'd be return the whole chest or nothing. MM |
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:09:10 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: MM wrote: I bought a flatpack chest of drawers from Ikea, but stupidly left it in the packaging for two weeks while doing other jobs. When I got round to assembling it, having assembled the carcass and drawers, it was time to put the top panel in place. Unfortunately, this has bowed quite significantly along the length. Whether this is because I had stood the package on its side and not flat, I don't know. But it's bowed and I'm not going to the palaver of putting everything back in the box to return to Ikea. So the question is, how can I flatten this bowed top panel, which is solid pine with an 'antique' finish? I have actually already achieved a fair bit of flattening in just 24 hours by laying the board, 'hump' side upward, on the carpet and putting some weights on it. But isn't steam used for bending plywood? Perhaps I could apply steam, then replace the weights? Will the bowing disappear completely? Basically more fool you... Sorry, I had to stop reading at this point, as I was becoming ****ed off by your exhibition of Schadenfreude. MM |
MM wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:37:58 +0000, Andy Dingley And I'm not going to drive 175 miles there and back to exchange a plank, even though I doubt they would anyway without the rest of the parts. What would they do? Remove a plank from a brand-new box? I very much doubt that. It'd be return the whole chest or nothing. MM The last time I bought some flat-pack furniture from Ikea, one of the panels was damaged. I went back to the store with the panel and they opened a new box up and gave me another one. They've also done the same for me when I was missing a part. |
"Grant Fitzgerald" wrote in message
... MM wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:37:58 +0000, Andy Dingley And I'm not going to drive 175 miles there and back to exchange a plank, even though I doubt they would anyway without the rest of the parts. What would they do? Remove a plank from a brand-new box? I very much doubt that. It'd be return the whole chest or nothing. MM The last time I bought some flat-pack furniture from Ikea, one of the panels was damaged. I went back to the store with the panel and they opened a new box up and gave me another one. They've also done the same for me when I was missing a part. I've never had any trouble with anything purchased from Ikea, aside from one time when I opened a box to discover half the panels smashed with dirty foot prints on them. I wrote them a polite email explaining the problem - without fuss they (in a huge HGV!) delivered a new bedside table straight to my door and collected the replacement - considering I am a good 100 mile round trip from this particular store I thought that was excellent service. When I wrote to them to thank them they actually took the time to write an individual reply, and passed my thanks on to those who were directly involved with my 'case'. A+ for Ikea! Alex |
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 14:32:12 +0000, Grant Fitzgerald
wrote: MM wrote: On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:37:58 +0000, Andy Dingley And I'm not going to drive 175 miles there and back to exchange a plank, even though I doubt they would anyway without the rest of the parts. What would they do? Remove a plank from a brand-new box? I very much doubt that. It'd be return the whole chest or nothing. MM The last time I bought some flat-pack furniture from Ikea, one of the panels was damaged. I went back to the store with the panel and they opened a new box up and gave me another one. They've also done the same for me when I was missing a part. Yes, but it's a 175 mile round trip! MM |
MM wrote :- Sorry, I had to stop reading at this point, as I was becoming ****ed off by your exhibition of Schadenfreude. Way over my head....... had to look that one up schadenfreude \SHAHD-n-froy-duh\, noun: A malicious satisfaction in the misfortunes of others. Regards Jeff |
MM wrote:
On Thu, 24 Mar 2005 11:37:58 +0000, Andy Dingley wrote: It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: they're done like that to make warping unlikely. This is Ikea - they're done like that to make them out of narrow strips, rather than expensive wide timber. A "chest top" would have been made from glued-up strips any time since the 18th century, largely for stability. Pre-war though, you're talking talking about two 9" wide planks, nowadays it's nine 2" planks. I'd bludgeon it flat by adding extra fastenings. I wouldn't steam it, because any finish that permits steam through it isn't going to be improved by the experience. If you want good furniture, don't buy it from Ikea. Their timber is of appaling quality, as you've just discovered. But a fraction of what you must pay for fully assembled stuff. I saw a *very* nice chest of drawers in a local shop, professionally made. The price was pretty professional, too: £295. I paid £109. It only needs to house a few socks, underpants, vests and T-shirts. Assembled it doesn't look bad at all, though obviously not in the "£295" bracket. If I were super-rich I'd possibly consider the £295 jobbie. But I'm not. Bloody eck. You can pick up a half decent chest for a fiver in most auctions... You can't beat Ikea for value, ROFLMAO!!! |
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