Can a CH motorised valve become faulty, but still be operated by the
lever? - and it's the valve - not the motor which has been replaced.

Hugh

"Hugh" wrote in message
...
Can a CH motorised valve become faulty, but still be operated by the
lever? - and it's the valve - not the motor which has been replaced.


Did you fit the valve correctly ?

Hugh wrote:
Can a CH motorised valve become faulty, but still be operated by the
lever? - and it's the valve - not the motor which has been replaced.


So, if I read this correctly, you've gone to all the trouble of (hopefully
partially) draining down the system in order to replace the valve, re-fitted
the (unknown quality) motor, refilled and bled the system, and now find that
it still doesn't work...

All in all, its usually (IME) the motor which burns out. This can be
replaced without draining the sysyem at all.

If it *IS* the valve which is faulty, I'd have replaced the whole goddam
shooting match, and have done with it!

YMMV
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Can I ask a largely unrelated question about the same subject? In a
previous email to uk.d-i-y it was suggested that to test if your motor
was broke you should test to see if it had gone "open circuit"
otherwise it should have a resistance of 2,500 Ohms. Well my motor
seems to measure approx 200 Ohms (maybe I misread it) but doesn't seem
to work. I took the motor out (but kept it wired) and turned on the
system, measured 240 Volts across the motor, but nothing happens. I
would assume therefore that the motor had gone. Is this correct? Why
is it then measuring a finite resistance?

Many thanks for the help

Paul

"Paul King" wrote in message news:1108002704.cb61a702d27cd344291c37657692ec3d@ teranews...
Hugh wrote:
Can a CH motorised valve become faulty, but still be operated by the
lever? - and it's the valve - not the motor which has been replaced.


So, if I read this correctly, you've gone to all the trouble of (hopefully
partially) draining down the system in order to replace the valve, re-fitted
the (unknown quality) motor, refilled and bled the system, and now find that
it still doesn't work...

All in all, its usually (IME) the motor which burns out. This can be
replaced without draining the sysyem at all.

If it *IS* the valve which is faulty, I'd have replaced the whole goddam
shooting match, and have done with it!

YMMV

Paul Heslop wrote:
Can I ask a largely unrelated question about the same subject? In a
previous email to uk.d-i-y it was suggested that to test if your motor
was broke you should test to see if it had gone "open circuit"
otherwise it should have a resistance of 2,500 Ohms. Well my motor
seems to measure approx 200 Ohms (maybe I misread it) but doesn't seem
to work. I took the motor out (but kept it wired) and turned on the
system, measured 240 Volts across the motor, but nothing happens. I
would assume therefore that the motor had gone. Is this correct? Why
is it then measuring a finite resistance?

Many thanks for the help


I *THINK* 2,500 ohms is about right for a working motor - you might have
shorted turns, resulting in the 200 ohm reading you're getting, and a
non-functioning motor because of the shorts. But, generally, they go open.
What you *REALLY* need to do is measure how much current its pulling. No
current = knackered, *LOTS* of current(Amps worth) = knackered too
somewhere in the happy middle (and a ticking/whirring noise) = happy joy
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