I've purchsed some projecting anchor bolts to enable me to put a heavy load
on a wall (TV to be precise).

As I'm a complete newbie at DIY I drilled the first 16mm hole this evening.
I then proceeded to put the anchor bolt into the hole. The problem I found
was that the thicker end of the anchor bolt would not go fully into the hole
and I ended up having to use a hammer to knock the bolt in. I'm certain this
can't be the right way. So was wondering if anyone could give me some advice
on how I'm supposed to install anchor bolts.

The type of bolt I'm talking about can be seen here.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...17637&ts=67269

Thanks for any help

Gary

"Gary" wrote in message
k...
I've purchsed some projecting anchor bolts to enable me to put a heavy
load
on a wall (TV to be precise).

As I'm a complete newbie at DIY I drilled the first 16mm hole this
evening.
I then proceeded to put the anchor bolt into the hole. The problem I found
was that the thicker end of the anchor bolt would not go fully into the
hole
and I ended up having to use a hammer to knock the bolt in. I'm certain
this
can't be the right way. So was wondering if anyone could give me some
advice
on how I'm supposed to install anchor bolts.

The type of bolt I'm talking about can be seen here.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...17637&ts=67269

Thanks for any help

Gary



could be a couple of things but....

sometimes the hole will be filled with dust and bits of brick/plaster that
just restricts the bolt from going in, try running the drill for a few
seconds after you drill the hole and pull it in and out or use a hoover on
it.

Paul

As I'm a complete newbie at DIY I drilled the first 16mm hole this evening.
I then proceeded to put the anchor bolt into the hole. The problem I found
was that the thicker end of the anchor bolt would not go fully into the hole
and I ended up having to use a hammer to knock the bolt in. I'm certain this
can't be the right way. So was wondering if anyone could give me some advice
on how I'm supposed to install anchor bolts.

You could always waggle the drill in the hole to open it out a little -
with this type of fixing it doesn`t really matter, as the fixing expands
almost indefinitely to fill the hole as the bolt acts on the cam that
forces out the wings.

You also get a little play on lining up the holes that way too :-}

--
Please add "[newsgroup]" in the subject of any personal replies via email
--- My new email address has "ngspamtrap" & @btinternet.com in it ;-) ---

"Gary" wrote in message
k...
I've purchsed some projecting anchor bolts to enable me to put a heavy
load
on a wall (TV to be precise).

As I'm a complete newbie at DIY I drilled the first 16mm hole this
evening.
I then proceeded to put the anchor bolt into the hole. The problem I found
was that the thicker end of the anchor bolt would not go fully into the
hole
and I ended up having to use a hammer to knock the bolt in. I'm certain
this
can't be the right way. So was wondering if anyone could give me some
advice
on how I'm supposed to install anchor bolts.

The type of bolt I'm talking about can be seen here.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...17637&ts=67269

Thanks for any help

Gary


============
It's possible that the expanding part is already partly expanded. Make sure
that you slacken off the nut before inserting the bolt.

Cic.

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 21:05:24 -0000, "paul" wrote:

"Gary" wrote in message
. uk...
I've purchsed some projecting anchor bolts to enable me to put a heavy
load
on a wall (TV to be precise).

As I'm a complete newbie at DIY I drilled the first 16mm hole this
evening.
I then proceeded to put the anchor bolt into the hole. The problem I found
was that the thicker end of the anchor bolt would not go fully into the
hole
and I ended up having to use a hammer to knock the bolt in. I'm certain
this
can't be the right way. So was wondering if anyone could give me some
advice
on how I'm supposed to install anchor bolts.

The type of bolt I'm talking about can be seen here.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...17637&ts=67269

Thanks for any help

Gary



could be a couple of things but....

sometimes the hole will be filled with dust and bits of brick/plaster that
just restricts the bolt from going in, try running the drill for a few
seconds after you drill the hole and pull it in and out or use a hoover on
it.

Many years ago I bought a rubber bulb from Hilti for this very
purpose. It had a thinnish plastic pipe attached which you simply
poked in the hole and blew the swarf out.

Actually Rawlbolts are better than sleeve bolts inasmuch as you can
get away with a slightly larger hole than the nominal, since there's
quite a bit more expansion (and the walls are serrated to give a
better grip).

--
Frank Erskine

Gary wrote:
I've purchsed some projecting anchor bolts to enable me to put a heavy load
on a wall (TV to be precise).

As I'm a complete newbie at DIY I drilled the first 16mm hole this evening.
I then proceeded to put the anchor bolt into the hole. The problem I found
was that the thicker end of the anchor bolt would not go fully into the hole
and I ended up having to use a hammer to knock the bolt in. I'm certain this
can't be the right way. So was wondering if anyone could give me some advice
on how I'm supposed to install anchor bolts.

The critical bit of info you need to give us is what material you're
drilling these holes in. "Real" brick will be fine (if you're lucky
enough to avoid the mortar between the bricks!) and provided the plaster
isn't outrageously thick. Plasterboard would be an utter disaster.
Lightweight concrete blocks (v. often used as the inner skin of outer
walls on recently-built houses) won't hold an anchor bolt too well.

Since your TV (plasma screen? or big heavy 'normal' (cathode-ray tube))
is a serious weight, it's going to be a Good Idea to get whatever form
of anchoring is most suitable nice and secure!

Stefek

Frank Erskine wrote:
sometimes the hole will be filled with dust and bits of brick/plaster that
just restricts the bolt from going in, try running the drill for a few
seconds after you drill the hole and pull it in and out or use a hoover on
it.

Many years ago I bought a rubber bulb from Hilti for this very purpose.
It had a thinnish plastic pipe attached which you simply poked in the
hole and blew the swarf out.

A large bendable drinking straw does the trick.

Large and bendable so the dust doesn't come right back at you... and
remember to blow, not suck.


--
Ian White
Abingdon, England

The critical bit of info you need to give us is what material you're
drilling these holes in

Good point :-}

--
Please add "[newsgroup]" in the subject of any personal replies via email
--- My new email address has "ngspamtrap" & @btinternet.com in it ;-) ---

In article ,
Stefek Zaba wrote:
The critical bit of info you need to give us is what material you're
drilling these holes in. "Real" brick will be fine (if you're lucky
enough to avoid the mortar between the bricks!)

16mm will not be a million miles away from the mortar between two courses.
Just make sure the wedges on the bolt are top and bottom as you tighten it.

--
*I didn't fight my way to the top of the food chain to be a vegetarian.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The TV is a plasma (35kg), and I'm recessing the bolt into the hole. The
bolt is 135mm so I drill a hole 125mm deep, the sleeve sits way back in the
hole and the actual bolt then petrudes the full 135mm from the back of the
hole giving approx 10mm I can attach the nut to. Is this correct.

I'm going into breezeblock through plasterboard that's been tab and dabbed
(sp?) onto the breezeblock. The bolt then opens up inside the breezeblock.
This is an exterior wall in a 3 year old house.

Comments appreciated.

Thanks

Gary

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Gary wrote:
As I'm a complete newbie at DIY I drilled the first 16mm hole this
evening. I then proceeded to put the anchor bolt into the hole. The
problem I found was that the thicker end of the anchor bolt would not go
fully into the hole and I ended up having to use a hammer to knock the
bolt in. I'm certain this can't be the right way. So was wondering if
anyone could give me some advice on how I'm supposed to install anchor
bolts.

IIRC, the collar part is meant to only sit flush with the plaster to give
a neat finish as well as help holding it together until tightened, so a
tap with a hammer to get it to fit is ok. It's the cast steel bits that
spread when you tighten it to take the load.

If going into an unplastered brick wall made of hard bricks you might need
to enlarge the start of the hole to get it to fit flush.

--
*Warning: Dates in Calendar are closer than they appear.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article , Gary
writes
The TV is a plasma (35kg), and I'm recessing the bolt into the hole. The
bolt is 135mm so I drill a hole 125mm deep, the sleeve sits way back in the
hole and the actual bolt then petrudes the full 135mm from the back of the
hole giving approx 10mm I can attach the nut to. Is this correct.

No, the front end of the sleeve should be flush with the wall, you
should drill the hole to the depth of the sleeve only (plus a little
bit). When you tighten it up, the bolt will pull out of the sleeve
(opening it up and fixing it) so you'll end up with a lot more bolt
sticking out. If the protruding bolt is a problem, cut it off with an
angle grinder after fixing.
--
Tim Mitchell

Everything everyone else said, and one other tip - if the bricks / blocks
you're going in to are vaguely near the edge of a wall, don't over-tighten
the bolts! They'll happily break bricks clean in half.

Andy

"Gary" wrote in message
.uk...
The TV is a plasma (35kg), and I'm recessing the bolt into the hole. The
bolt is 135mm so I drill a hole 125mm deep, the sleeve sits way back in
the
hole and the actual bolt then petrudes the full 135mm from the back of the
hole giving approx 10mm I can attach the nut to. Is this correct.

I'm going into breezeblock through plasterboard that's been tab and dabbed
(sp?) onto the breezeblock. The bolt then opens up inside the breezeblock.
This is an exterior wall in a 3 year old house.

Comments appreciated.

Thanks

Gary

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Gary wrote:
As I'm a complete newbie at DIY I drilled the first 16mm hole this
evening. I then proceeded to put the anchor bolt into the hole. The
problem I found was that the thicker end of the anchor bolt would not
go
fully into the hole and I ended up having to use a hammer to knock the
bolt in. I'm certain this can't be the right way. So was wondering if
anyone could give me some advice on how I'm supposed to install anchor
bolts.

IIRC, the collar part is meant to only sit flush with the plaster to give
a neat finish as well as help holding it together until tightened, so a
tap with a hammer to get it to fit is ok. It's the cast steel bits that
spread when you tighten it to take the load.

If going into an unplastered brick wall made of hard bricks you might
need
to enlarge the start of the hole to get it to fit flush.

--
*Warning: Dates in Calendar are closer than they appear.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


I have seen the resin anchor system be used to hold a 25inch TV stand to a
breeze block and plasterboard wall. The resin "spills out" in the gap
between the breeze block and plasterboard providing a solid backing to the
plasterboard when the stand is tightened to the wall. I think it was a
PlasPlugs kit from B&Q used.

If I get the sleeve flush to the front of the plasterboard the sleeve won't
be deep enough into the wall to be into the breezeblock, this would be the
problem. These are also the largest bolts I found (length wise).

I now have one bolt in the wall as described in my earlier post. Is there
anything I could use to fill the gap whilst still using the bolt as secured?

"Tim Mitchell" wrote in message
news
In article , Gary
writes
The TV is a plasma (35kg), and I'm recessing the bolt into the hole. The
bolt is 135mm so I drill a hole 125mm deep, the sleeve sits way back in
the
hole and the actual bolt then petrudes the full 135mm from the back of
the
hole giving approx 10mm I can attach the nut to. Is this correct.

No, the front end of the sleeve should be flush with the wall, you
should drill the hole to the depth of the sleeve only (plus a little
bit). When you tighten it up, the bolt will pull out of the sleeve
(opening it up and fixing it) so you'll end up with a lot more bolt
sticking out. If the protruding bolt is a problem, cut it off with an
angle grinder after fixing.
--
Tim Mitchell

Gary wrote:
If I get the sleeve flush to the front of the plasterboard the sleeve won't
be deep enough into the wall to be into the breezeblock, this would be the
problem. These are also the largest bolts I found (length wise).

I now have one bolt in the wall as described in my earlier post. Is there
anything I could use to fill the gap whilst still using the bolt as secured?

The problem, as I see it, is that you have this gap between the
breezeblock wall (which we'll pretend is 'strong' for current purposes!)
with a bit of air followed by the plasterboard. The plasterboard's not
very far off the breezeblock, is it - what, half an inch or an inch, the
thickness of the dabs, right?

For a firm fixing, I'd want to bridge that gap with something more
solid, or attach the brackets which holds your TV up flat against the
breezeblock itself. Suitable 'packing' might be: wood offcuts, the
car-body-filler that at least one of our regulars is always keen on, or
similar gubbins. One other poster's already suggested losing the sleeve
anchors and using the polyester-resin-and-studding approach, which would
be OK if you can spread the load onto a large enough area of the
more-or-less-unsupported plasterboard left at the front.

HTH - Stefek

Due to the cost of the TV and generally that I'm now unhappy doing this
myself I'm going to see if I can get someone in to do the job. I've been
quoted £300 to do the job of mounting the plasma, rather high I think but a
price I might have to live with.

Just need to figure out how to remove the one bolt I did put in place, that
seemingly doesn't ever want to move, and thats before I tightened the nut to
expand the sleeve!!

Thanks

Gary

"Stefek Zaba" wrote in message
...
Gary wrote:
If I get the sleeve flush to the front of the plasterboard the sleeve
won't
be deep enough into the wall to be into the breezeblock, this would be
the
problem. These are also the largest bolts I found (length wise).

I now have one bolt in the wall as described in my earlier post. Is
there
anything I could use to fill the gap whilst still using the bolt as
secured?

The problem, as I see it, is that you have this gap between the
breezeblock wall (which we'll pretend is 'strong' for current purposes!)
with a bit of air followed by the plasterboard. The plasterboard's not
very far off the breezeblock, is it - what, half an inch or an inch, the
thickness of the dabs, right?

For a firm fixing, I'd want to bridge that gap with something more
solid, or attach the brackets which holds your TV up flat against the
breezeblock itself. Suitable 'packing' might be: wood offcuts, the
car-body-filler that at least one of our regulars is always keen on, or
similar gubbins. One other poster's already suggested losing the sleeve
anchors and using the polyester-resin-and-studding approach, which would
be OK if you can spread the load onto a large enough area of the
more-or-less-unsupported plasterboard left at the front.

HTH - Stefek

Just need to figure out how to remove the one bolt I did put in place, that
seemingly doesn't ever want to move, and thats before I tightened the nut to
expand the sleeve!!

Tap the stud in the middle, and try to waggle or prise the outer sleeve
out - if you can get onto it with pliers or grips of some sort, then as
long as you`re not pulling on the stud itself you`ll get there :-}

--
Please add "[newsgroup]" in the subject of any personal replies via email
--- My new email address has "ngspamtrap" & @btinternet.com in it ;-) ---

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Gary wrote:
If I get the sleeve flush to the front of the plasterboard the sleeve
won't be deep enough into the wall to be into the breezeblock, this
would be the problem. These are also the largest bolts I found (length
wise).

Ah. Didn't pick up it was plasterboard.

I now have one bolt in the wall as described in my earlier post. Is
there anything I could use to fill the gap whilst still using the bolt
as secured?

The bolt must bear solidly on the block face to work - pulling on
plasterboard just won't do. I'd feel inclined to make up wood battens
slightly wider and longer than the bracket to the depth between the
plasterboard face and the blocks and cut them in. Make the holes the same
size as the threads so the anchors are kept flush with the blocks. Then
when you tighten them, the full strain will be on the blocks.

--
Actually thinking about it, what I did in my last house for the TV holder on
a breezeblock and plasterboard wall, was cut a hole in the plasterboard the
size of the bracket. In the hole I screwed to the breeze block exact shaped
18mm +6mm MDF. This ended up with the MDF being almost flush (slightly lower
but good enough) with the plaster. I then filled edges and painted and used
expanding fittings in the breeze block to hold the bracket to the wall.

I have also seen a house where two large (floor to ceiling and width of
plasma screen) sheets of MDF/block board where screwed/bonded to the
plasterboard and plainted the room colour. The plasma screen attached to
this sheets. I think the rear sheet had a section missing so you could feed
cables down the back and they appear at ground level. Looked OK if you don't
mind raised section of wall and missing section of skirting board and
something strange to leave the next purchasers of the house.