Hi,
The bearings failed on my AEG washer-dryer. I have replaced them
successfully but discovered secondary damage to the drum, where the
inner part appears to have struck the heating element (bending it) and
knocked a fitting of some sort (possibly a support for said element?)
off the outer drum. This has left a hole about the size of a penny at
the bottom of the outer drum.

I'm about to price a replacement drum (suspect this is going to be
uneconomic) but wondered if it's likely to be practical to repair the
hole some other way (a silicone sealed patch pop-riveted in place,
perhaps?).

I'm concerned that the elemement may be damaged, too- is a resistance
check likely to be sufficient to confirm it's working? If so what
would I be looking for (~8 ohms?)?

Advice appreciated, especially "cut your lossed"!

Cheers,
W.

PS it's an AEG OKO-Lavamat 1261 turbo, if that matters... about 5-10
years old.

William Warburton wrote:
Hi,
I'm about to price a replacement drum (suspect this is going to be
uneconomic) but wondered if it's likely to be practical to repair the
hole some other way (a silicone sealed patch pop-riveted in place,
perhaps?).

Hi

I happen to be currently juggling bits between two AEG machines to get
a fully working one again.

Presumably you've done the same remove front of machine, steel clamp
band, concrete loaded tub front as I did to get to the inner drum. On
mine the element is clamped against the tub outer a wire holder, which
I guess is the part you've found has come loose.

I may have a servicable tub (which I think is the usual name for the
static, outer drum) and possibly inner drum left over at the end of my
repairs.

The machine I'm getting going again is a 5 year old 72620. The other
is an approx 10 year old other model (number not to hand).

The inner drums look identical prior to dismantling (same overall
pattern, number of holes, etc.) so your machine may well be the same.
This also suggests a variety of AEG machines over that period will have
a suitable drum if you can find one at a disposal yard, etc. Not so
sure about the outers until I've dismantled them both.

Get in touch if you're interested in parts and can collect them from SW
London, but I may not have them for a little while as its taking time
to get time to effect the repair.

Cheers
IanC

wrote:

I happen to be currently juggling bits between two AEG machines to
get
a fully working one again.

Hmmm, just noticed yours is a washer-dryer. Mine are just washers, so
may well be more different than I first thought.

IanC

In article ,
(William Warburton) writes:
Hi,
The bearings failed on my AEG washer-dryer. I have replaced them
successfully but discovered secondary damage to the drum, where the
inner part appears to have struck the heating element (bending it) and
knocked a fitting of some sort (possibly a support for said element?)
off the outer drum. This has left a hole about the size of a penny at
the bottom of the outer drum.

I'm about to price a replacement drum (suspect this is going to be
uneconomic) but wondered if it's likely to be practical to repair the
hole some other way (a silicone sealed patch pop-riveted in place,
perhaps?).

Probably. What's the outer drum made of?
Many years ago, I kept an old Hoover washing machine going for
a good few years by repairing the leaks in the steel drum with
a car Isopon kit occasionally.

I'm concerned that the elemement may be damaged, too- is a resistance
check likely to be sufficient to confirm it's working? If so what
would I be looking for (~8 ohms?)?

Not sure what it will be cold, but not open circuit.
I would guess a lot nearer its operating resistance (24 ohms
for a 2kW heater). Check the metal case of the element is not
punctured and that element is isolated from case.

--
Andrew Gabriel

hole: depends on drum material: steel, ali, plastic etc. Ali could be
repaired with epoxy resin, but certainly avoid the quickset stuff.
Better would be a bolt on ali patch and a load of silicone. Always
scrape ali immediately before applying glue.


Heater element: check element resistance, should be somewhere vaguely
in the region of 20 ohms, might be half or double that though.

Ideally you should also test it with a megger, but most folk dont have
one of those.

It is possible to Check R from heater outer sheath to the contacts on
the highest R range. If conduction is detected it may well fail when
mains V is applied. But for legal reasons I will say only install it
its passed a megger test.


NT