There seem to be several systems around which allow pipes to be joined
without using tools.

At first sight, at any rate, they all look basically similar - having O-ring
seals and a means of gripping the pipe.

Is there a FAQ or document/chart anywhere which explains any subtle
differences between the different offerings? I have in mind component
construction, assembly method, disassembly potential, application areas,
cost, advantages and disadvantages.

I note that some Speedfit fittings say that they're only suitable for water
up to 65 degC - thus ruling out central heating use in most cases - and some
of them seem to have elaborate inserts, with several O-rings on.

Can anyone out there throw any light on the subject?
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
There seem to be several systems around which allow pipes to be joined
without using tools.

At first sight, at any rate, they all look basically similar - having
O-ring
seals and a means of gripping the pipe.

Is there a FAQ or document/chart anywhere which explains any subtle
differences between the different offerings? I have in mind component
construction, assembly method, disassembly potential, application areas,
cost, advantages and disadvantages.

I note that some Speedfit fittings say that they're only suitable for
water
up to 65 degC - thus ruling out central heating use in most cases - and
some
of them seem to have elaborate inserts, with several O-rings on.

Can anyone out there throw any light on the subject?

Osma Gold have metal encapsulated fittings and stainless steel inserts, as
does Marley Equator. A special tool is needed to demount. Gold has a an O
ring with two edges in a "W" shape giving another layer of protection.
Hep2o and Polyplumb, to demount you unscrew the fitting. Polyplumb say
insert a new O ring and grab ring.

There are brass/copper push fits for copper pipe, with Tectite and Cuprinol
in the game.

Speedfit? Fine for low pressure applications where cold water is involved.
Above that I would be scared.

All Marley and Speedfit pipe has an oxygen barrier. The others? Two types
of pipe, with and without. So make sure you get the right pipe. CH needs
an oxygen barrier, especially sealed systems.

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 14:17:11 -0000, "Set Square"
strung together this:

Can anyone out there throw any light on the subject?

I can't, but I know a man who can.
ducks
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
url here when I get around to it
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 14:17:11 -0000, "Set Square"
wrote:

There seem to be several systems around which allow pipes to be joined
without using tools.

At first sight, at any rate, they all look basically similar - having O-ring
seals and a means of gripping the pipe.

Is there a FAQ or document/chart anywhere which explains any subtle
differences between the different offerings? I have in mind component
construction, assembly method, disassembly potential, application areas,
cost, advantages and disadvantages.

Each of the manufacturers has technical data for applications and
installation instructions.

You do need to make sure that you select the correct range for the
application.



I note that some Speedfit fittings say that they're only suitable for water
up to 65 degC - thus ruling out central heating use in most cases - and some
of them seem to have elaborate inserts, with several O-rings on.

The standard Speedfit is OK for CH applications.

http://www.johnguest.co.uk/linkpages/TechSpec9.html

The inserts used with all makes are mainly to stiffen the area around
the seal and to prevent the tube from deforming.

Those with extra O rings provide additional protection against the
effects of side forces.

http://www.johnguest.co.uk/part_spec.asp?s=STS_S1

JG's fittings also have a twist/lock arrangement which provides
additional security.


Can anyone out there throw any light on the subject?

The most important things are to follow the instructions regarding
bending radius, support, cutting (use a tube cutter and not a
hacksaw), keeping clean before use

I've used all the major brands at one time or another and never had
any problems with any of them. All are produced to BS7291:2001 and
licenced.





--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Hall wrote:


Can anyone out there throw any light on the subject?

The most important things are to follow the instructions regarding
bending radius, support, cutting (use a tube cutter and not a
hacksaw), keeping clean before use

I've used all the major brands at one time or another and never had
any problems with any of them. All are produced to BS7291:2001 and
licenced.

Thanks for the info, Andy.

My immediate requirement is to re-plumb my bath taps, using flexible braided
tap connectors, and joining to copper pipe in a fairly inaccessible place -
hence I want to use a "tool-less" joint.

These braided connectors come in various flavours - pushfit, speedfit etc.
When connecting to copper, is any one system better than the others?
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 18:54:46 -0000, "Set Square"
wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andy Hall wrote:


Can anyone out there throw any light on the subject?

The most important things are to follow the instructions regarding
bending radius, support, cutting (use a tube cutter and not a
hacksaw), keeping clean before use

I've used all the major brands at one time or another and never had
any problems with any of them. All are produced to BS7291:2001 and
licenced.

Thanks for the info, Andy.

My immediate requirement is to re-plumb my bath taps, using flexible braided
tap connectors, and joining to copper pipe in a fairly inaccessible place -
hence I want to use a "tool-less" joint.

These braided connectors come in various flavours - pushfit, speedfit etc.
When connecting to copper, is any one system better than the others?

Again I've connected onto copper tube with all of the main brands of
plastic push fitting without problems. It's important to make sure
that the end is clean and no burs, so definitely use a tube cutter.
If you are tight on space, the miniature ones made by Rothenberger and
available in heating places will fit into tight spots. The slight
indenting effect produced by a pipe cutter is helpful.

More to the point, I would look carefully at the different types of
flexible braided hose - some have wider bore than others.


--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Set Square" wrote in message ...
There seem to be several systems around which allow pipes to be joined
without using tools.

At first sight, at any rate, they all look basically similar - having O-ring
seals and a means of gripping the pipe.

Is there a FAQ or document/chart anywhere which explains any subtle
differences between the different offerings? I have in mind component
construction, assembly method, disassembly potential, application areas,
cost, advantages and disadvantages.

I note that some Speedfit fittings say that they're only suitable for water
up to 65 degC - thus ruling out central heating use in most cases - and some
of them seem to have elaborate inserts, with several O-rings on.

The temperature limited ones are normally for their range of service
valves rather than standard connectors so there's no problem with
central heating. The optional O-ring pipe insert just provides extra
security - I've had no leaks to date without using them.
IME the pipe pushes home more easily with Speedfit connectors probably
because of the twist lock feature.

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 14:17:11 +0000, Set Square wrote:

There seem to be several systems around which allow pipes to be joined
without using tools.

At first sight, at any rate, they all look basically similar - having O-ring
seals and a means of gripping the pipe.

Is there a FAQ or document/chart anywhere which explains any subtle
differences between the different offerings? I have in mind component
construction, assembly method, disassembly potential, application areas,
cost, advantages and disadvantages.

I note that some Speedfit fittings say that they're only suitable for water
up to 65 degC - thus ruling out central heating use in most cases - and some
of them seem to have elaborate inserts, with several O-rings on.

Can anyone out there throw any light on the subject?

The fittings should all be inter-changeable on all types of pipe.
The inserts however must be exactly the type to match the pipe.

Avoid plastic pipe into compression joints - if you really can't avoid
that it is absolutely essential the insert/support ferule/tube is used.
Elsewhere the pipe end inserts are very good practice and will help
with correct assembly.

In all cases the fittings tend to have two distinct phases when you insert
the pipe. The first phase picks up the grabbing mechaism the second phase
makes the water seal. Nearly all the bad joints are due to failure to push
the pipe far enough into the fitting. Many types of pipe are marked to
make sure you put it in far enough.


I've used both JG's pipe and Hepworth's, I much prefer the latter it is
more flexible although it is also kinkable if abused. The JG pipe inserts
are also severe restrictions on the pipe bore whereas the Hepworths are
quite thin s/s.

AIUI the story of barrier pipe goes as follows:

Plastic pipe was introduced but deprecated by the conservative views held
by the employees of a very large service company. The company as a large
emergency cover provider was (and probably still is) looking for ways to
avoid delivering on the obligations. Or may be they were getting too much
flak from there employees? The upshot was that the company said they
wouldn't cover systems with plastic pipes and attached the blame on
diffusion of oxygen through the walls of the plastic pipe.

I beleive that it is possible to get some oxygen diffusion through a
plastic pipe - however the amount must be tiny (I reckon) and an open
header tank must be far more significant.

The manufacturers responded by producing laminated pipe walls including a
gas impermeable (sp?) layer.

I only have experience with Hepworth, JG and Cuprofit fittings.

Cuprofit are the least obtrusive, probably the toughest and very very hard
to demount and you need the tool for it.

Hepworths are the ugliest and have improved when they got rid of the sharp
s/s finger slicer (sorry grab ring) which is now a moulded pastic part with
metal inserts. You can easily take them apart.

Speedfit are probably the easiest to take apart and dont require that you
dismantle the fitting to do so. More recent units have a backnut which can
be further tightened for extra peace of mind.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 14:17:11 +0000, Set Square wrote:

There seem to be several systems around which allow pipes to be joined
without using tools.

At first sight, at any rate, they all look basically similar - having
O-ring
seals and a means of gripping the pipe.

Is there a FAQ or document/chart anywhere which explains any subtle
differences between the different offerings? I have in mind component
construction, assembly method, disassembly potential, application areas,
cost, advantages and disadvantages.

I note that some Speedfit fittings say that they're only suitable for
water
up to 65 degC - thus ruling out central heating use in most cases - and
some
of them seem to have elaborate inserts, with several O-rings on.

Can anyone out there throw any light on the subject?

The fittings should all be inter-changeable on all types of pipe.

The makers say not to do this.

The inserts however must be exactly the type to match the pipe.

Avoid plastic pipe into compression
joints - if you really can't avoid
that it is absolutely essential the
insert/support ferule/tube is used.

Makers say it is OK to used compression on plastic.

Elsewhere the pipe end inserts are very
good practice and will help
with correct assembly.

In all cases the fittings tend to have two distinct phases when you insert
the pipe. The first phase picks up the grabbing mechaism the second phase
makes the water seal.

Er, no. Hep2o is the other way around. They changed from the other way, so
they may change back.

Nearly all the bad joints are due to failure to push
the pipe far enough into the fitting. Many
types of pipe are marked to
make sure you put it in far enough.

Some grab rings don't grab enough and fittings come shooting off under
pressure.

I've used both JG's pipe and Hepworth's, I much prefer the latter it is
more flexible although it is also kinkable if abused.

Hep2o have soft non-barrier pipe and hard barrier pipe just like Speedfits.

The JG pipe inserts
are also severe restrictions on the pipe
bore whereas the Hepworths are
quite thin s/s.

JG are plastic, all others metal.

AIUI the story of barrier pipe goes as follows:

Plastic pipe was introduced but deprecated by the conservative views held
by the employees of a very large service company. The company as a large
emergency cover provider was (and probably still is) looking for ways to
avoid delivering on the obligations. Or may be they were getting too much
flak from there employees? The upshot was that the company said they
wouldn't cover systems with plastic pipes and attached the blame on
diffusion of oxygen through the walls of the plastic pipe.

I beleive that it is possible to get some oxygen diffusion through a
plastic pipe - however the amount must be tiny (I reckon) and an open
header tank must be far more significant.

In a sealed system it can make a difference.

Continuous high temperature exposure to chlorine should be avoided with
plastic pipe, as when using a secondary circulation looop. Hot chroninated
water is pumped out of the cylinder around a loop back to the cylinder, all
the hot water supplies are taken from the loop. It should be on a timer so
that the operation is not continuous.

The manufacturers responded by producing
laminated pipe walls including a
gas impermeable (sp?) layer.

I only have experience with Hepworth, JG and Cuprofit fittings.

Cuprofit are the least obtrusive, probably the toughest and very very hard
to demount and you need the tool for it.

Hepworths are the ugliest and have improved when they got rid of the sharp
s/s finger slicer (sorry grab ring) which is now a moulded pastic part
with
metal inserts. You can easily take them apart.

Speedfit are probably the easiest to take apart and dont require that you
dismantle the fitting to do so. More recent units have a backnut which can
be further tightened for extra peace of mind.

"StealthUK" wrote in message
om...
"Set Square" wrote in message
...
There seem to be several systems around which allow pipes to be joined
without using tools.

At first sight, at any rate, they all look basically similar - having
O-ring
seals and a means of gripping the pipe.

Is there a FAQ or document/chart anywhere which explains any subtle
differences between the different offerings? I have in mind component
construction, assembly method, disassembly potential, application areas,
cost, advantages and disadvantages.

I note that some Speedfit fittings say that they're only suitable for
water
up to 65 degC - thus ruling out central heating use in most cases - and
some
of them seem to have elaborate inserts, with several O-rings on.

The temperature limited ones are normally for their range of service
valves rather than standard connectors so there's no problem with
central heating. The optional O-ring pipe insert just provides extra
security - I've had no leaks to date without using them.
IME the pipe pushes home more easily with Speedfit connectors probably
because of the twist lock feature.

That is probably because they are so slack and leak a lot.

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 00:53:11 -0000, "IMM" strung
together this:

The fittings should all be inter-changeable on all types of pipe.

The makers say not to do this.

Well they would wouldn't they, they want you to buy all of their
fittings.

Avoid plastic pipe into compression
joints - if you really can't avoid
that it is absolutely essential the
insert/support ferule/tube is used.

Makers say it is OK to used compression on plastic.

No-one said anything to the contrary, note the word 'avoid', not
'don't'. Just because you are bodging billy.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

"IMM" wrote in message
...

"StealthUK" wrote in message
om...
"Set Square" wrote in message
...
There seem to be several systems around which allow pipes to be joined
without using tools.

At first sight, at any rate, they all look basically similar - having
O-ring
seals and a means of gripping the pipe.

Is there a FAQ or document/chart anywhere which explains any subtle
differences between the different offerings? I have in mind component
construction, assembly method, disassembly potential, application
areas,
cost, advantages and disadvantages.

I note that some Speedfit fittings say that they're only suitable for
water
up to 65 degC - thus ruling out central heating use in most cases - and
some
of them seem to have elaborate inserts, with several O-rings on.

The temperature limited ones are normally for their range of service
valves rather than standard connectors so there's no problem with
central heating. The optional O-ring pipe insert just provides extra
security - I've had no leaks to date without using them.
IME the pipe pushes home more easily with Speedfit connectors probably
because of the twist lock feature.

That is probably because they are so slack and leak a lot.




Only if you cut the pipe with a hacksaw.

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
Hepworths are the ugliest and have improved when they got rid of the sharp
s/s finger slicer (sorry grab ring) which is now a moulded pastic part
with
metal inserts. You can easily take them apart.


I like the old s/s grab ring. Plenty tough. Managed to break the new green
style ring once (as opposed to the flawed white style) and havn't been
totally confident of them since. Fortunately there are plenty of "old style
Hep" brands around. The main Hep improvement was that they moved to grab
first technology so that plumbers were still in the house when it leaked as
opposed to long gone.

Jim A

"Lurch" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 00:53:11 -0000, "IMM" strung
together this:

The fittings should all be inter-changeable on all types of pipe.

The makers say not to do this.

Well they would wouldn't they, they want you to buy all of their
fittings.

And pipe cutters too.

Avoid plastic pipe into compression
joints - if you really can't avoid
that it is absolutely essential the
insert/support ferule/tube is used.

Makers say it is OK to used compression on plastic.

No-one said anything to the contrary, note the word 'avoid', not
'don't'. Just because you are bodging billy.

Unfortunately you wouldn't know a bodge if it smacked you in the chin.
The makers say it is OK. I have used compression on plastic and not one
problem yet.

"Stephen Dawson" wrote in message
...

"IMM" wrote in message
...

"StealthUK" wrote in message
om...
"Set Square" wrote in message
...
There seem to be several systems around which allow pipes to be
joined
without using tools.

At first sight, at any rate, they all look basically similar - having
O-ring
seals and a means of gripping the pipe.

Is there a FAQ or document/chart anywhere which explains any subtle
differences between the different offerings? I have in mind component
construction, assembly method, disassembly potential, application
areas,
cost, advantages and disadvantages.

I note that some Speedfit fittings say that they're only suitable for
water
up to 65 degC - thus ruling out central heating use in most cases -
and
some
of them seem to have elaborate inserts, with several O-rings on.

The temperature limited ones are normally for their range of service
valves rather than standard connectors so there's no problem with
central heating. The optional O-ring pipe insert just provides extra
security - I've had no leaks to date without using them.
IME the pipe pushes home more easily with Speedfit connectors probably
because of the twist lock feature.

That is probably because they are so slack and leak a lot.

Only if you cut the pipe with a hacksaw.

Nope! "because they are so slack and leak a lot." You have to learn to
read or comprehend what the words mean. You will be much better then and
your life will be so much more fulfilling.

"IMM" wrote in message
...

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
In all cases the fittings tend to have two distinct phases when you
insert
the pipe. The first phase picks up the grabbing mechaism the second phase
makes the water seal.

Er, no. Hep2o is the other way around. They changed from the other way,
so
they may change back.


Wrong this time. That's original Hep, current Hep grabs first. Don't think
they will change back because plumbers blamed seal first for subsequent
blowouts.

Jim A

"Jim Alexander" wrote in message
...

plumbers blamed seal first for subsequent
blowouts.

I know.

Nope! "because they are so slack and leak a lot." You have to learn to
read or comprehend what the words mean. You will be much better then and
your life will be so much more fulfilling.

A bit like reading an instruction leaflet which state "do not use a hacksaw"
and comprehending it?

Christian.

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 04:57:53 +0000, Lurch wrote:

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 00:53:11 -0000, "IMM" strung
together this:

The fittings should all be inter-changeable on all types of pipe.

The makers say not to do this.

Well they would wouldn't they, they want you to buy all of their
fittings.

Hep2O 15mm is of course not the same as BS 864 15mm form IMI which is not
the same as 15mm from JG. Yeah right!

In fact you wouldn't get a 22mm compression joint to tighten on 3/4" ID
imperial copper (about 21.5mm OD). JG speedfits will handle this if you
tighten the backnut up! So if anything the plastic fittings are more
interchangeable.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 00:53:11 +0000, IMM wrote:




I've used both JG's pipe and Hepworth's, I much prefer the latter it is
more flexible although it is also kinkable if abused.

Hep2o have soft non-barrier pipe and hard barrier pipe just like
Speedfits.

I am comparing the barrier Hep2o with the barrier JG offerings both coiled and
straight lengths. The Hep2o is significantly more workable, IME.



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

"Ed Sirett" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 00:53:11 +0000, IMM wrote:

I've used both JG's pipe and Hepworth's, I much prefer the latter it is
more flexible although it is also kinkable if abused.

Hep2o have soft non-barrier pipe and hard barrier pipe just like
Speedfits.

I am comparing the barrier Hep2o with
the barrier JG offerings both coiled and
straight lengths. The Hep2o is significantly
more workable, IME.

true.

In message , IMM writes


The temperature limited ones are normally for their range of service
valves rather than standard connectors so there's no problem with
central heating. The optional O-ring pipe insert just provides extra
security - I've had no leaks to date without using them.
IME the pipe pushes home more easily with Speedfit connectors probably
because of the twist lock feature.

That is probably because they are so slack and leak a lot.

So would you if you'd been well ****ed by someone with a hacksaw
--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , IMM writes


The temperature limited ones are normally for their range of service
valves rather than standard connectors so there's no problem with
central heating. The optional O-ring pipe insert just provides extra
security - I've had no leaks to date without using them.
IME the pipe pushes home more easily with Speedfit connectors probably
because of the twist lock feature.

That is probably because they are so slack and leak a lot.

So would you if you'd been well ****ed by someone with a hacksaw

Do you mean and not finished off properly Maxie?

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
Nope! "because they are so slack and leak a lot." You have to learn to
read or comprehend what the words mean. You will be much better then and
your life will be so much more fulfilling.

A bit like reading an instruction leaflet which state "do not use a
hacksaw"
and comprehending it?

Christian.



I am glad you pointed out the obvious, Christian. I really hane not had a
speedfit fitting leak, except when not pushed fully home.

IMM, just accept that JG is another of achieiving the same end result.

"Stephen Dawson" wrote in message
...

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
Nope! "because they are so slack and leak a lot." You have to learn
to
read or comprehend what the words mean. You will be much better then
and
your life will be so much more fulfilling.

A bit like reading an instruction leaflet which state "do not use a
hacksaw"
and comprehending it?

Christian.



I am glad you pointed out the obvious, Christian. I really hane not had a
speedfit fitting leak, except when not pushed fully home.

IMM, just accept that JG is another of achieiving the same end result.

It is crap. A crap design. Crap manufacture. O rings should not come
loose when a perfectly square cut pipe in inserted onto the fitting. They
should look at Osma gold and copy. Note none of the fittings contain metal,
they are an ex plastic toy company.

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 22:51:19 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Stephen Dawson" wrote in message


I am glad you pointed out the obvious, Christian. I really hane not had a
speedfit fitting leak, except when not pushed fully home.

IMM, just accept that JG is another of achieiving the same end result.

It is crap. A crap design. Crap manufacture. O rings should not come
loose when a perfectly square cut pipe in inserted onto the fitting.

They don't. This only happens if the pipe has been hacked.

They
should look at Osma gold and copy. Note none of the fittings contain metal,
they are an ex plastic toy company.

Who? Osma or JG?

There are stainless steel teeth in Speedfit fittings. You would
have known this had you read the installation instructions - they are
clearly shown in a cut away drawing of the fitting.

Osma have metal components as well.











--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 22:51:19 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Stephen Dawson" wrote in message


I am glad you pointed out the obvious, Christian. I really hane not had
a
speedfit fitting leak, except when not pushed fully home.

IMM, just accept that JG is another of achieiving the same end result.

It is crap. A crap design. Crap manufacture. O rings should not come
loose when a perfectly square cut pipe in inserted onto the fitting.

They don't. This only happens if the pipe has been hacked.

Balls. You know nothing about pipes.

They
should look at Osma gold and copy. Note none of the fittings contain
metal,
they are an ex plastic toy company.

Who? Osma or JG?

JG. Remember Girders and Bridges. they advertised on the TV.

There are stainless steel teeth in Speedfit fittings. You would
have known this had you read the installation instructions - they are
clearly shown in a cut away drawing of the fitting.

....you don't say....

Osma have metal components as well.

Lots of them like metal encapsulated fittings and stainless inserts.

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 18:44:11 +0000, "Ed Sirett"
strung together this:

Hep2O 15mm is of course not the same as BS 864 15mm form IMI which is not
the same as 15mm from JG. Yeah right!

In fact you wouldn't get a 22mm compression joint to tighten on 3/4" ID
imperial copper (about 21.5mm OD). JG speedfits will handle this if you
tighten the backnut up! So if anything the plastic fittings are more
interchangeable.

I'm not sure whether you;re disagreeing with me, or whether I
disagreed with you.
Anyway, I wholeheartedly agree with your above statement.
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd
Please reply to group or use 'usenet' in email subject

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 23:23:08 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 22:51:19 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Stephen Dawson" wrote in message


I am glad you pointed out the obvious, Christian. I really hane not had
a
speedfit fitting leak, except when not pushed fully home.

IMM, just accept that JG is another of achieiving the same end result.

It is crap. A crap design. Crap manufacture. O rings should not come
loose when a perfectly square cut pipe in inserted onto the fitting.

They don't. This only happens if the pipe has been hacked.

Balls. You know nothing about pipes.

That's a curious observation since I have always achieved good results
with this product and others, as have other people.

Then you come along, use a hacksaw instead of the recommended tube
cutter and make a ******** of the job.

The conclusion is quite obvious.





There are stainless steel teeth in Speedfit fittings. You would
have known this had you read the installation instructions - they are
clearly shown in a cut away drawing of the fitting.

...you don't say....

I do.

So not only don't you know how to use plastic plumbing, you don't know
how the fittings are made either.

Not exactly in a position of strength in terms of this technology, are
you?



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 23:23:08 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 22:51:19 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Stephen Dawson" wrote in message


I am glad you pointed out the obvious, Christian. I really hane not
had
a
speedfit fitting leak, except when not pushed fully home.

IMM, just accept that JG is another of achieiving the same end
result.

It is crap. A crap design. Crap manufacture. O rings should not
come
loose when a perfectly square cut pipe in inserted onto the fitting.

They don't. This only happens if the pipe has been hacked.

Balls. You know nothing about pipes.

That's a curious observation since
I have always achieved good results
with this product and others, as have
other people.

You have only used bit around the house.

Then you come along, use a
hacksaw instead of the recommended tube
cutter and make a ******** of the job.

Wrong. A pefect square cut with no burrs. Fully pro you see.

The conclusion is quite obvious.

You are right. Speedfit is crap.

There are stainless steel teeth in Speedfit fittings. You would
have known this had you read the installation instructions - they are
clearly shown in a cut away drawing of the fitting.

...you don't say....

I do.

So not only don't you know how
to use plastic plumbing, you don't know
how the fittings are made either.

I do, They are made by a toy company.

Not exactly in a position of strength in terms of this technology, are
you?

Neither are they. I wonder if JG ever did Mickey Mouse dolls.

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 23:43:24 -0000, "IMM" wrote:



Balls. You know nothing about pipes.

That's a curious observation since
I have always achieved good results
with this product and others, as have
other people.

You have only used bit around the house.

Apparently, you used it once and cocked it up......


Then you come along, use a
hacksaw instead of the recommended tube
cutter and make a ******** of the job.

Wrong. A pefect square cut with no burrs. Fully pro you see.

Mmmmm.........

Cuts pipe with wrong tool specifically against maker's
recommendations, designs gas installations beyond the manufacturer's
ratings of the components.

A real pro. ( I don't mean professional either).


snip tripe



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 23:43:24 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

Balls. You know nothing about pipes.

That's a curious observation since
I have always achieved good results
with this product and others, as have
other people.

You have only used bit around the house.

Apparently, you used it once and cocked it up......

You must have Speefit shares. The fitting was defective. Poor design and
manufacture. You should learn to read you know. A very low attention span.

Then you come along, use a
hacksaw instead of the recommended tube
cutter and make a ******** of the job.

Wrong. A pefect square cut with no burrs. Fully pro you see.

Mmmmm.........

Nice tune there.

Cuts pipe

Perfectly.

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 00:09:13 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 23:43:24 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

Balls. You know nothing about pipes.

That's a curious observation since
I have always achieved good results
with this product and others, as have
other people.

You have only used bit around the house.

Apparently, you used it once and cocked it up......

You must have Speefit shares.

I have no investments in this sector of the construction industry.

The fitting was defective. Poor design and
manufacture. You should learn to read you know. A very low attention span.

It wasn't me who had difficulty reading the instructions, was
it......?





--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 00:09:13 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 23:43:24 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

Balls. You know nothing about pipes.

That's a curious observation since
I have always achieved good results
with this product and others, as have
other people.

You have only used bit around the house.

Apparently, you used it once and cocked it up......

You must have Speefit shares.

I have no investments in this sector of the construction industry.

I doubt that.

The fitting was defective. Poor design and
manufacture. You should learn to read you know. A very low attention
span.

It wasn't me who had difficulty reading the instructions, was
it......?

No, difficulty reading what I write. Bets you print off everything I have
posted for the past 3 years and read them all.

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 00:20:25 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message

It wasn't me who had difficulty reading the instructions, was
it......?

No, difficulty reading what I write.

I imagine that everybody has that difficulty.......

Bets you print off everything I have
posted for the past 3 years and read them all.

I never go to the bookie's




--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 00:20:25 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message

It wasn't me who had difficulty reading the instructions, was
it......?

No, difficulty reading what I write.

No only you and handful of retards.

I imagine that everybody has that difficulty.......

Best you print off everything I have
posted for the past 3 years and read them all.

I never go to the bookie's

Shame.

Hi IMM
In you wrote:
Andy:
It wasn't me who had difficulty reading the instructions, was
it......?

IMM:
No, difficulty reading what I write.

IMM:
No only you and handful of retards.

Andy:
I imagine that everybody has that difficulty.......

Shame you can't reply in a coherent fashion. You've even managed to write
a nasty response to something that you wrote!

--
Fishter
http://www.fishter.org.uk/
Nice perfume. Must you marinate in it?

In article ,
IMM wrote:
Then you come along, use a
hacksaw instead of the recommended tube
cutter and make a ******** of the job.

Wrong. A pefect square cut with no burrs. Fully pro you see.

If you think a hacksaw leaves no burrs, you're not only not a pro but
blind.

--
*I got a sweater for Christmas. I really wanted a screamer or a moaner*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
IMM wrote:
Bets you print off everything I have posted for the past 3 years and
read them all.

What? 'snip rubbish' about 10,000 times?

--
*A bicycle can't stand alone because it's two tyred.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
IMM wrote:
Then you come along, use a
hacksaw instead of the recommended tube
cutter and make a ******** of the job.

Wrong. A pefect square cut with no burrs. Fully pro you see.

If you think

I don't think, I know.

snip babble