The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

So what about fitting a 150mm flexible hose instead? There are several
available, on eBay, on Amazon etc. These have a compression joint at
one end and the usual coupling at the other end to screw onto the
cistern inlet. They are available with or without an integral
isolation valve. I would only choose the latter kind.

I've fitted compression joints successfully before, but have never
used the flexible hoses for anything, so have no experience with them.

But surely the compression joint end is just like any other
compression joint? Should just be the case of using a pipe cutter to
cut the existing copper pipe, then fitting the hose? The only
complication is that the builder painted the copper pipe white to
match the bathroom! But paint stripper should remove it. Plus wirewool
perhaps.

I assume one would attach the hose to the cistern inlet first, in
order to gauge the right distance to cut the copper pipe for the
compression end?

Am I on the right track here?

Thanks.

MM

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

So what about fitting a 150mm flexible hose instead? There are several
available, on eBay, on Amazon etc. These have a compression joint at
one end and the usual coupling at the other end to screw onto the
cistern inlet. They are available with or without an integral
isolation valve. I would only choose the latter kind.

I've fitted compression joints successfully before, but have never
used the flexible hoses for anything, so have no experience with them.

After seeing a flexible hose fail I tend to avoid them with the
exception of taps.

But surely the compression joint end is just like any other
compression joint? Should just be the case of using a pipe cutter to
cut the existing copper pipe, then fitting the hose? The only
complication is that the builder painted the copper pipe white to
match the bathroom! But paint stripper should remove it. Plus wirewool
perhaps.

Or stainless steel scourer.

I assume one would attach the hose to the cistern inlet first, in
order to gauge the right distance to cut the copper pipe for the
compression end?

Am I on the right track here?

I'm wondering why you can't make a more direct replacement.

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

So what about fitting a 150mm flexible hose instead? There are several
available, on eBay, on Amazon etc. These have a compression joint at
one end and the usual coupling at the other end to screw onto the
cistern inlet. They are available with or without an integral
isolation valve. I would only choose the latter kind.

I've fitted compression joints successfully before, but have never
used the flexible hoses for anything, so have no experience with them.

But surely the compression joint end is just like any other
compression joint? Should just be the case of using a pipe cutter to
cut the existing copper pipe, then fitting the hose? The only
complication is that the builder painted the copper pipe white to
match the bathroom! But paint stripper should remove it. Plus wirewool
perhaps.

I assume one would attach the hose to the cistern inlet first, in
order to gauge the right distance to cut the copper pipe for the
compression end?

Am I on the right track here?

Thanks.

MM


I am a big fan of using flexible hoses for things like this, only I
would get one with an isolation (also known as service) valve. This is
exactly what I just did when I had to replace a cistern recently.

I find the best way to deal with painted pipes is to scratch the paint
off with a stanley knife blade, held perpendicular to the pipe and slid
axially so that you take off longitudinal strips. When you have most of
it off, finish off with steel wool. You don't want to make deep gouges
in the copper, but superficial scratches are OK especially when finished
off with wire wool. The point about olives is that they deform, and
deform the pipe, when done up tightly, which is why they are tolerant of
surface roughness and pipe tolerances. The female threaded end should
come with a rubber washer to make the seal on the ball valve inlet.

And yes, whether using flexible or solid pipe, fit the pipe to the
cistern first and then "cut and shut" to the existing copper.

On Thu, 20 May 2021 14:20:53 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

Yes. But I've seen it called ferrule elsewhere.


It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

I thought one wasn't supposed to use the same olive again? Will it
seal ok? If so, then I don't need a hose connection.


So what about fitting a 150mm flexible hose instead? There are several
available, on eBay, on Amazon etc. These have a compression joint at
one end and the usual coupling at the other end to screw onto the
cistern inlet. They are available with or without an integral
isolation valve. I would only choose the latter kind.

I've fitted compression joints successfully before, but have never
used the flexible hoses for anything, so have no experience with them.

After seeing a flexible hose fail I tend to avoid them with the
exception of taps.

But surely the compression joint end is just like any other
compression joint? Should just be the case of using a pipe cutter to
cut the existing copper pipe, then fitting the hose? The only
complication is that the builder painted the copper pipe white to
match the bathroom! But paint stripper should remove it. Plus wirewool
perhaps.

Or stainless steel scourer.

I assume one would attach the hose to the cistern inlet first, in
order to gauge the right distance to cut the copper pipe for the
compression end?

Am I on the right track here?

I'm wondering why you can't make a more direct replacement.

After what you said above I will probably attempt it.

MM

On Thu, 20 May 2021 15:49:23 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

So what about fitting a 150mm flexible hose instead? There are several
available, on eBay, on Amazon etc. These have a compression joint at
one end and the usual coupling at the other end to screw onto the
cistern inlet. They are available with or without an integral
isolation valve. I would only choose the latter kind.

I've fitted compression joints successfully before, but have never
used the flexible hoses for anything, so have no experience with them.

But surely the compression joint end is just like any other
compression joint? Should just be the case of using a pipe cutter to
cut the existing copper pipe, then fitting the hose? The only
complication is that the builder painted the copper pipe white to
match the bathroom! But paint stripper should remove it. Plus wirewool
perhaps.

I assume one would attach the hose to the cistern inlet first, in
order to gauge the right distance to cut the copper pipe for the
compression end?

Am I on the right track here?

Thanks.

MM


I am a big fan of using flexible hoses for things like this, only I
would get one with an isolation (also known as service) valve. This is
exactly what I just did when I had to replace a cistern recently.

I find the best way to deal with painted pipes is to scratch the paint
off with a stanley knife blade, held perpendicular to the pipe and slid
axially so that you take off longitudinal strips. When you have most of
it off, finish off with steel wool. You don't want to make deep gouges
in the copper, but superficial scratches are OK especially when finished
off with wire wool. The point about olives is that they deform, and
deform the pipe, when done up tightly, which is why they are tolerant of
surface roughness and pipe tolerances. The female threaded end should
come with a rubber washer to make the seal on the ball valve inlet.

And yes, whether using flexible or solid pipe, fit the pipe to the
cistern first and then "cut and shut" to the existing copper.

Thanks. I've seen the short hose with integral isolation valve for
around £3.50 on eBay or Amazon, but my local DIY merchant may actually
have one on the shelf. I note your comments about scratching the paint
off, but do you not rate paint stripper? Or is it corrosive on copper?

MM

MM has brought this to us :
I thought one wasn't supposed to use the same olive again? Will it
seal ok? If so, then I don't need a hose connection.

It will seal absolutely fine, if in doubt - wipe some Plumbers Mait
around the olive.

newshound wrote on 20/05/2021 :
The female threaded end should come with a rubber washer to make the seal on
the ball valve inlet.

Fibre!

MM used his keyboard to write :
Thanks. I've seen the short hose with integral isolation valve for
around £3.50 on eBay or Amazon, but my local DIY merchant may actually
have one on the shelf. I note your comments about scratching the paint
off, but do you not rate paint stripper? Or is it corrosive on copper?

No need for stipper, just scrape it with a blade then finish with wire
wool/ emery cloth or similar.

On 20/05/2021 16:57, MM wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2021 14:20:53 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

Yes. But I've seen it called ferrule elsewhere.


It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

I thought one wasn't supposed to use the same olive again? Will it
seal ok? If so, then I don't need a hose connection.

Unless it was leaking around the olive then it should be fine. There is
no issue in reusing an olive if it's not being moved. If it looks good
then best well left alone.

I have used one of these where the olive must be removed because of
thread or other differences:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133611699107

So what about fitting a 150mm flexible hose instead? There are several
available, on eBay, on Amazon etc. These have a compression joint at
one end and the usual coupling at the other end to screw onto the
cistern inlet. They are available with or without an integral
isolation valve. I would only choose the latter kind.

I've fitted compression joints successfully before, but have never
used the flexible hoses for anything, so have no experience with them.

After seeing a flexible hose fail I tend to avoid them with the
exception of taps.

But surely the compression joint end is just like any other
compression joint? Should just be the case of using a pipe cutter to
cut the existing copper pipe, then fitting the hose? The only
complication is that the builder painted the copper pipe white to
match the bathroom! But paint stripper should remove it. Plus wirewool
perhaps.

Or stainless steel scourer.

I assume one would attach the hose to the cistern inlet first, in
order to gauge the right distance to cut the copper pipe for the
compression end?

Am I on the right track here?

I'm wondering why you can't make a more direct replacement.

After what you said above I will probably attempt it.

I would replace direct, and then check afterwards. Least effort and
least disturbance.

On Thu, 20 May 2021 17:05:55 +0100, Harry Bloomfield, Esq.
wrote:

MM has brought this to us :
I thought one wasn't supposed to use the same olive again? Will it
seal ok? If so, then I don't need a hose connection.

It will seal absolutely fine, if in doubt - wipe some Plumbers Mait
around the olive.

Good to know. I think I've still got a tin of that stuff somewhere,
but it might have dried out by now. No worries, I'll get a new tin.

MM

On Thu, 20 May 2021 17:12:11 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 16:57, MM wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2021 14:20:53 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

Yes. But I've seen it called ferrule elsewhere.


It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

I thought one wasn't supposed to use the same olive again? Will it
seal ok? If so, then I don't need a hose connection.

Unless it was leaking around the olive then it should be fine. There is
no issue in reusing an olive if it's not being moved. If it looks good
then best well left alone.

I have used one of these where the olive must be removed because of
thread or other differences:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133611699107

My goodness, people think of everything!

So what about fitting a 150mm flexible hose instead? There are several
available, on eBay, on Amazon etc. These have a compression joint at
one end and the usual coupling at the other end to screw onto the
cistern inlet. They are available with or without an integral
isolation valve. I would only choose the latter kind.

I've fitted compression joints successfully before, but have never
used the flexible hoses for anything, so have no experience with them.

After seeing a flexible hose fail I tend to avoid them with the
exception of taps.

But surely the compression joint end is just like any other
compression joint? Should just be the case of using a pipe cutter to
cut the existing copper pipe, then fitting the hose? The only
complication is that the builder painted the copper pipe white to
match the bathroom! But paint stripper should remove it. Plus wirewool
perhaps.

Or stainless steel scourer.

I assume one would attach the hose to the cistern inlet first, in
order to gauge the right distance to cut the copper pipe for the
compression end?

Am I on the right track here?

I'm wondering why you can't make a more direct replacement.

After what you said above I will probably attempt it.

I would replace direct, and then check afterwards. Least effort and
least disturbance.

Yep. But I may just get me a 150mm hose connection as a fall-back if
it goes pear-shaped. It's ony £3.50 and if I don't need it I can give
it away on Freegle.

MM

on 20/05/2021, MM supposed :
Good to know. I think I've still got a tin of that stuff somewhere,
but it might have dried out by now. No worries, I'll get a new tin.

It should be fine, it's none setting and keeps a very long time.

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Do you mean the olive?

If so put a ajustable spanner behind it and hit the spanner with a
hammer to gradually knock it up the pipe until it falls off the end.



So what about fitting a 150mm flexible hose instead? There are several
available, on eBay, on Amazon etc. These have a compression joint at
one end and the usual coupling at the other end to screw onto the
cistern inlet. They are available with or without an integral
isolation valve. I would only choose the latter kind.

I have done just that.

Think about not using the flexi with integral valve. The valve cannot be
used if in future the flexi fails and needs to be replaced.

I also found that fitting the flexi to a vertical pipe is not idea. I
found that fitting a 90 degree bend to the pipe from my floor and a
short horizontal pipe before the flexi allowed the excess flexi to be
routed a lot easier with bends that don't stress the flexi.


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 20/05/2021 17:01, MM wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2021 15:49:23 +0100, newshound


Thanks. I've seen the short hose with integral isolation valve for
around £3.50 on eBay or Amazon, but my local DIY merchant may actually
have one on the shelf. I note your comments about scratching the paint
off, but do you not rate paint stripper? Or is it corrosive on copper?

MM

It's just fiddly to do on an in-situ pipe. The modern stuff is not quite
as quick as old fashioned Nitromors too.

On 20/05/2021 17:07, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
newshound wrote on 20/05/2021 :
The female threaded end should come with a rubber washer to make the
seal on the ball valve inlet.

Fibre!

Might be, but rubber will work fine if it is a plastic valve (just like
dishwasher or washing machine). Only a problem if it is overtightened.

When you say flexible, is it one of those with a plastic overlay and is
really bendy, or those terrible convoluted ones with ribs down them that
are more bendable but not very strong. I fitted one of the latter to my hot
tap in the kitchen and a little while later it got a pin hole in it and I
had to get the more expensive nice pliable ones. It was the slight flexing
of the sink that did the damage. In a loo setting, I guess one needs to be
sure its in a place where it won't get knocked about by cleaners and the
like. What about the aesthetics though, flexible does tend to look a little
odd.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"MM" wrote in message
...
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

So what about fitting a 150mm flexible hose instead? There are several
available, on eBay, on Amazon etc. These have a compression joint at
one end and the usual coupling at the other end to screw onto the
cistern inlet. They are available with or without an integral
isolation valve. I would only choose the latter kind.

I've fitted compression joints successfully before, but have never
used the flexible hoses for anything, so have no experience with them.

But surely the compression joint end is just like any other
compression joint? Should just be the case of using a pipe cutter to
cut the existing copper pipe, then fitting the hose? The only
complication is that the builder painted the copper pipe white to
match the bathroom! But paint stripper should remove it. Plus wirewool
perhaps.

I assume one would attach the hose to the cistern inlet first, in
order to gauge the right distance to cut the copper pipe for the
compression end?

Am I on the right track here?

Thanks.

MM

On 20 May 2021 at 16:57:15 BST, "MM" wrote:

On Thu, 20 May 2021 14:20:53 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

Yes. But I've seen it called ferrule elsewhere.


It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

I thought one wasn't supposed to use the same olive again? Will it
seal ok? If so, then I don't need a hose connection.


So what about fitting a 150mm flexible hose instead? There are several
available, on eBay, on Amazon etc. These have a compression joint at
one end and the usual coupling at the other end to screw onto the
cistern inlet. They are available with or without an integral
isolation valve. I would only choose the latter kind.

I've fitted compression joints successfully before, but have never
used the flexible hoses for anything, so have no experience with them.

After seeing a flexible hose fail I tend to avoid them with the
exception of taps.

But surely the compression joint end is just like any other
compression joint? Should just be the case of using a pipe cutter to
cut the existing copper pipe, then fitting the hose? The only
complication is that the builder painted the copper pipe white to
match the bathroom! But paint stripper should remove it. Plus wirewool
perhaps.

Or stainless steel scourer.

I assume one would attach the hose to the cistern inlet first, in
order to gauge the right distance to cut the copper pipe for the
compression end?

Am I on the right track here?

I'm wondering why you can't make a more direct replacement.

After what you said above I will probably attempt it.

MM

If the joint has previously been waterproof it is much better to use the old
olive (assuming it is a modern fitting and has the same thread as the new one)
than to try to put a new olive on the same pipe. They usually seem to work
well in the new fitting, and you can always use your sealant of choice, *on
the distal end of the olive* not the thread, (PTFE tape and Fernox LX have
worked for me) if necessary or for reassurance.

--
Roger Hayter

On Fri, 21 May 2021 07:54:16 +0100, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

When you say flexible, is it one of those with a plastic overlay and is
really bendy, or those terrible convoluted ones with ribs down them that
are more bendable but not very strong. I fitted one of the latter to my hot
tap in the kitchen and a little while later it got a pin hole in it and I
had to get the more expensive nice pliable ones. It was the slight flexing
of the sink that did the damage. In a loo setting, I guess one needs to be
sure its in a place where it won't get knocked about by cleaners and the
like. What about the aesthetics though, flexible does tend to look a little
odd.
Brian

It would look like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251895790943

MM

On Thu, 20 May 2021 14:20:53 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

Turned out that a new fibre washer was all that was needed. I bought a
packet of 10 for about 50 pence from local DIY store. I'm going to
keep checking it all afternoon, but so far no drip after an hour.

MM

On 25/05/2021 13:05, MM wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2021 14:20:53 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

Turned out that a new fibre washer was all that was needed. I bought a
packet of 10 for about 50 pence from local DIY store. I'm going to
keep checking it all afternoon, but so far no drip after an hour.

The beauty of fibre washers is they swell. One good reason to replace
them if the joint is disturbed.

If it's not leaking now it probably won't in the future too.

On Tue, 25 May 2021 14:46:14 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 25/05/2021 13:05, MM wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2021 14:20:53 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

Turned out that a new fibre washer was all that was needed. I bought a
packet of 10 for about 50 pence from local DIY store. I'm going to
keep checking it all afternoon, but so far no drip after an hour.

The beauty of fibre washers is they swell. One good reason to replace
them if the joint is disturbed.

If it's not leaking now it probably won't in the future too.

I don't understand how it can start leaking, though. Going back
through my records it was October 2015 when I fitted a new fill valve,
and it's been leak free until a few days ago. Does the fibre washer
perish in some way? The old one looks pretty ropey, I must say. It
almost fell apart.

MM

On 25/05/2021 18:16, MM wrote:
On Tue, 25 May 2021 14:46:14 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 25/05/2021 13:05, MM wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2021 14:20:53 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

Turned out that a new fibre washer was all that was needed. I bought a
packet of 10 for about 50 pence from local DIY store. I'm going to
keep checking it all afternoon, but so far no drip after an hour.

The beauty of fibre washers is they swell. One good reason to replace
them if the joint is disturbed.

If it's not leaking now it probably won't in the future too.

I don't understand how it can start leaking, though. Going back
through my records it was October 2015 when I fitted a new fill valve,
and it's been leak free until a few days ago. Does the fibre washer
perish in some way? The old one looks pretty ropey, I must say. It
almost fell apart.

It sounds a poor quality. I would expect it to last longer.

I can't really think of a plausible explanation for the failure.

On 25 May 2021 at 18:16:43 BST, "MM" wrote:

On Tue, 25 May 2021 14:46:14 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 25/05/2021 13:05, MM wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2021 14:20:53 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

Turned out that a new fibre washer was all that was needed. I bought a
packet of 10 for about 50 pence from local DIY store. I'm going to
keep checking it all afternoon, but so far no drip after an hour.

The beauty of fibre washers is they swell. One good reason to replace
them if the joint is disturbed.

If it's not leaking now it probably won't in the future too.

I don't understand how it can start leaking, though. Going back
through my records it was October 2015 when I fitted a new fill valve,
and it's been leak free until a few days ago. Does the fibre washer
perish in some way? The old one looks pretty ropey, I must say. It
almost fell apart.

MM

I've only seen them fail when the two fittings are not perfectly aligned so
that, immediately or over time, there was unequal pressure on opposite sides
of the washer, and the washer was squeezed out at one point.

--
Roger Hayter

"Fredxx" wrote in message
...
On 25/05/2021 18:16, MM wrote:
On Tue, 25 May 2021 14:46:14 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 25/05/2021 13:05, MM wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2021 14:20:53 +0100, Fredxx
wrote:

On 20/05/2021 13:59, MM wrote:
The cistern service valve is very slightly weeping and so will have
to
be replaced. But in order to remove the valve I shall have to cut off
the ferrule at the compression joint end. As it is unfeasible to
actually saw through the ferrule, the usual approach is to saw
through
the pipe just past the ferrule. But then the gap between the cistern
inlet and the new service valve is likely to be too large.

Ferrule? Do you mean olive?

It is normal to simply connect the new onto the old pipe with the old
olive, or if using a fibre washer, same nut with a new fibre washer.

Turned out that a new fibre washer was all that was needed. I bought a
packet of 10 for about 50 pence from local DIY store. I'm going to
keep checking it all afternoon, but so far no drip after an hour.

The beauty of fibre washers is they swell. One good reason to replace
them if the joint is disturbed.

If it's not leaking now it probably won't in the future too.

I don't understand how it can start leaking, though. Going back
through my records it was October 2015 when I fitted a new fill valve,
and it's been leak free until a few days ago. Does the fibre washer
perish in some way? The old one looks pretty ropey, I must say. It
almost fell apart.

It sounds a poor quality. I would expect it to last longer.

I can't really think of a plausible explanation for the failure.

I can, it was a flaky fiber washer right from the start.

On Wed, 26 May 2021 06:11:19 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread

--
"Anonymous" to trolling senile Rodent Speed:
"You can **** off as you know less than pig **** you sad
little ignorant ****."
MID: